No onstar audio or chimes after bose amp removal.

xavierny25

Original poster
Member
Mar 16, 2014
6,323
Staten Island, N.Y
2008 gmc envoy slt with bose audio.

I purchased my envoy with an already after market kenwood headunit. It has the Gmos 04 unit for the install of the headunit running through the bose system(amp). Last year I yanked out the door speakers and put in some kicker speakers. I also added a 5 channel amp along with the stealth box. On the head unit I just went to the back of the head unit put some y connector to both front outputs (l/r)to connect the Gmos04 rca's and the rca's to my new amp.also added another 2 sets of rca's for the rear and sub to the back of the head unit. The bose system has been running the 2 dash speakers only until today.

Today I popped in the two dash speakers and of course they sounded like crap of the bose amp. So I went ahead to the back of the truck pulled the panel off located the wires for the 2 dash speakers and cut them out added some wire and connected them to my amp. Sounds great. I figure since the bose amp is no longer running any audio after I cut the last sets of speaker wires I can pull the amp out of there so I did just that.

And here is where my problem starts. After I got everything done in the back and cleaned up. I figure let me give everything a check over. To my surprise no chimes or onstar voice. Fml I'm thinking. So I pulled out the head unit to see what's going after trying to adjust things it's still a no go with the chimes or onstar.
I did find out the person that did the install didn't put the appropriate fm antenna adapter in there. Any help would be great fully appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 

kickass audio

Member
Aug 25, 2012
955
There have been reports of bad gmos 04 adapters so yours could have just kicked the bucket. It's a super easy swap though if it is dead and the wiring for it was done correctly. The amp is still used for the chimes though so you will need to have it getting power. When you cut the wires, did you leave the rest of the wires going to the amp connected? Is the AMP fuse under the rear seat still good?
 

xavierny25

Original poster
Member
Mar 16, 2014
6,323
Staten Island, N.Y
kickass audio said:
There have been reports of bad gmos 04 adapters so yours could have just kicked the bucket. It's a super easy swap though if it is dead and the wiring for it was done correctly. The amp is still used for the chimes though so you will need to have it getting power. When you cut the wires, did you leave the rest of the wires going to the amp connected? Is the AMP fuse under the rear seat still good?
The Gmos 04 seems to be be working right. I mean everything on the head unit to my amps is good. I'm getting my music just fine. I hit the onstar button and it shuts of the head unit but no audio from there on.

I'll try putting back the bose amp and reconnecting the rca's for all 4 speakers back to the Gmos 04 unit and see what happens.
In the event that the Gmos 04 did crap out is the pax rp5 gm11 a better unit to install because it has a chimes module? And if so do I still need the bose amp for the onstar with it?
The reason I want to get the bose amp out of there is to put in a better mono amp for the stealth box in its place aswell as get a better sub for the stealth box.
BTW I ordered a new head unit. Yay me uploadfromtaptalk1440892107858.pnguploadfromtaptalk1440892119021.png
 

DAlastDON

Member
Apr 6, 2014
5,550
Kentucky
xavierny25 said:
2008 gmc envoy slt with bose audio.

I purchased my envoy with an already after market kenwood headunit. It has the Gmos 04 unit for the install of the headunit running through the bose system(amp). Last year I yanked out the door speakers and put in some kicker speakers. I also added a 5 channel amp along with the stealth box. On the head unit I just went to the back of the head unit put some y connector to both front outputs (l/r)to connect the Gmos04 rca's and the rca's to my new amp.also added another 2 sets of rca's for the rear and sub to the back of the head unit. The bose system has been running the 2 dash speakers only until today.

Today I popped in the two dash speakers and of course they sounded like crap of the bose amp. So I went ahead to the back of the truck pulled the panel off located the wires for the 2 dash speakers and cut them out added some wire and connected them to my amp. Sounds great. I figure since the bose amp is no longer running any audio after I cut the last sets of speaker wires I can pull the amp out of there so I did just that.

And here is where my problem starts. After I got everything done in the back and cleaned up. I figure let me give everything a check over. To my surprise no chimes or onstar voice. Fml I'm thinking. So I pulled out the head unit to see what's going after trying to adjust things it's still a no go with the chimes or onstar.
I did find out the person that did the install didn't put the appropriate fm antenna adapter in there. Any help would be great fully appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Y adapters were installed at the head unit front RCA's to feed the gmos and after market amp, right? When you cut the front speaker wires at the bose amp and wired them into the aftermarket amp, that bypassed any sound going to the dash speakers from the gmos harness. Chimes and onstar audio come from the gmos.

Some of the older gmos04 harness's allowed a line level input and newer/others used a speaker level input. Which one is yours? Did it have RCA's on it or just wires? If it has RCA's on it and it accepts a low level input then do away with the Y adapters and feed it directly with the line level output of the head unit. On the output of the gmos cut the front speaker output wires on the vehicle harness to the bose amp and put some RCA's on the feed the aftermarket amp with the RCA cords that you ran.

If you go the route of the RP5 GM11(what i have) then it does support both speaker level and line level inputs. Solder some RCA's on to the RP5 inputs and connect the harness plug to the low level input. To retain the onstar you will have to cut the front speaker output wires on the vehicle harness from the RP5 to the bose amp, solder on some RCA's then connect to the aftermarket amp via RCA cables. Chimes come through a little chime box speaker. Chimes sound way different too. Steering wheel controls are preprogrammed. Rear headphone jacks still function and the seek/track buttons still work. Source buttons do not. If your head unit supports dual zones then a different source can be played to the rear speakers/headphones.
 
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Reprise

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Jul 22, 2015
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:diggrave:Sorry to make this a zombie thread, but it kind of answers a question I have about my upcoming stereo upgrades...

I've got this same system (with the GMOS-04, no RCA leads on it), and am about to rip out the speakers and replace the amp (one of the front channels is blown / going out).

But - I apparently need to retain the Bose amp if I want to keep the chimes (and I appreciate Kickass Audio mentioning that). Ok - fine - I'll leave the Bose amp installed. :sadcry:

I was planning on putting my component tweets in the dash - but I know the chimes come through the dash speakers - so... could I put my tweets in the dash cutouts, and have both my aftermarket amp *and* the Bose amp connected to them, so that they function as tweeters from my system, and 'chime speakers' off the retained Bose amp? I'm guessing that if I'm sending signal from the head unit's RCAs to the amp, and then out to the speaks, that simply having the Bose amp dash speaker connections intact would not feed two amp loads to the speakers - but I'd probably need to cut some connections at the GMOS-04 harness to do this - which would kill the signal to the Bose amp, and I'd lose the chimes anyway.

Given that, I'm probably going to have to mount the tweets externally, leaving the factory ones in the dash - *then*, I can feed the stockers from the retained Bose amp, while cutting the leads from all *but* the dash speakers on the GMOS-04 harness (I'm running new wiring from my aftermarket amp to my replacement speakers). Or maybe I can just leave that harness untouched, since I won't be using the factory speaker wiring any longer (except for the dash speakers) - the bose amp will feed, but to disconnected leads (for door speakers)

Other Ideas? As I've mentioned before, I really, really want those chimes :weird:
 

xavierny25

Original poster
Member
Mar 16, 2014
6,323
Staten Island, N.Y
:diggrave:Sorry to make this a zombie thread, but it kind of answers a question I have about my upcoming stereo upgrades...

I've got this same system (with the GMOS-04, no RCA leads on it), and am about to rip out the speakers and replace the amp (one of the front channels is blown / going out).

But - I apparently need to retain the Bose amp if I want to keep the chimes (and I appreciate Kickass Audio mentioning that). Ok - fine - I'll leave the Bose amp installed. :sadcry:

I was planning on putting my component tweets in the dash - but I know the chimes come through the dash speakers - so... could I put my tweets in the dash cutouts, and have both my aftermarket amp *and* the Bose amp connected to them, so that they function as tweeters from my system, and 'chime speakers' off the retained Bose amp? I'm guessing that if I'm sending signal from the head unit's RCAs to the amp, and then out to the speaks, that simply having the Bose amp dash speaker connections intact would not feed two amp loads to the speakers - but I'd probably need to cut some connections at the GMOS-04 harness to do this - which would kill the signal to the Bose amp, and I'd lose the chimes anyway.

Given that, I'm probably going to have to mount the tweets externally, leaving the factory ones in the dash - *then*, I can feed the stockers from the retained Bose amp, while cutting the leads from all *but* the dash speakers on the GMOS-04 harness (I'm running new wiring from my aftermarket amp to my replacement speakers). Or maybe I can just leave that harness untouched, since I won't be using the factory speaker wiring any longer (except for the dash speakers) - the bose amp will feed, but to disconnected leads (for door speakers)

Other Ideas? As I've mentioned before, I really, really want those chimes :weird:

Why not just purchase the pac rp5 gm11 install kit if it's just to retain chimes?

Also no need to run wire to ur doors from your new amp all the wires are at the bose amp just located the wires and splice them in.

Also you'd have to tune down your new amp to get the audio output to be close to what the headunit is pushing out to your dash speakers to be able to hear them.
 

Reprise

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Jul 22, 2015
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Well, I have the GMOS-04, and picked that originally because it has a rep of having a more realistic 'chime' than the PAC GM11 - in a smaller, cheaper package. And it's working beautifully right now - it'd be a bit of a waste to spend the cash on the PAC adapter, IMO, unless it was really the only way to achieve what I'm wanting to do.

On the wiring - I wanted to use a higher gauge wire (like 16ga) from the amp to the speakers - they like a bit of power, and there'd be less resistance with a thicker wire. The amp calls for a 4ga connection for power / ground

I just chatted with Crutchfield (where I got the GMOS-04), and they're saying I can remove the Bose amp completely (which agrees with what Blackshadow suggested in another post), put fresh wiring in, and be good to go as long as I retain that GMOS-04. So - I guess we'll see who's correct - I'll post back once I get it all installed / tested over the next couple of weekends.

Thanks for replying - appreciate!
 
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xavierny25

Original poster
Member
Mar 16, 2014
6,323
Staten Island, N.Y
Well, I have the GMOS-04, and picked that originally because it has a rep of having a more realistic 'chime' than the PAC GM11 - in a smaller, cheaper package. And it's working beautifully right now - it'd be a bit of a waste to spend the cash on the PAC adapter, IMO, unless it was really the only way to achieve what I'm wanting to do.

On the wiring - I wanted to use a higher gauge wire (like 16ga) from the amp to the speakers - they like a bit of power, and there'd be less resistance with a thicker wire. The amp calls for a 4ga connection for power / ground

I just chatted with Crutchfield (where I got the GMOS-04), and they're saying I can remove the Bose amp completely (which agrees with what Blackshadow suggested in another post), put fresh wiring in, and be good to go as long as I retain that GMOS-04. So - I guess we'll see who's correct - I'll post back once I get it all installed / tested over the next couple of weekends.

Thanks for replying - appreciate!

Take pic's I'd sure like to see how it gets done as I still have the gmos-04 unit in and haven't switched it. I've been living with out the chimes for some time now.
 

knuckled1

Member
Jul 20, 2017
39
Albany
Can I eliminate factory amp all together and just install new head unit, interface, steering wheel controls, my new speakers in all doors run by one amp, and my sub run from the other amp, with a capacitor?
I don't really know where to start, and if I can eliminate factory amp without losing any necessary functions.
 

Aaramill

Member
Dec 19, 2014
7
Can I eliminate factory amp all together and just install new head unit, interface, steering wheel controls, my new speakers in all doors run by one amp, and my sub run from the other amp, with a capacitor?
I don't really know where to start, and if I can eliminate factory amp without losing any necessary functions.
Easiest if you get a head with preouts for front, rear, sub & hook those to amp. Run speaker wire or reroute factory speaker wire
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,224
Ottawa, ON
You do realize you're answering to a 2 year old post?
 

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