I'll put the gloves on after breaking free the oil filter free so the gloves don't rip open trying to loosen it.
I use the HF 7mil nitrile gloves (darker blue); they hold up much better than the 5mil when gripping / turning. The 9mil (black) might even be better, but the 7mil gets this job done for me (one pair lasts the whole job).
I also bring an oil filter wrench with me, in case the filter's a little tight.
One thing that came to mind as I was getting ready to post this was... black opera gloves (they go to the elbow). And they're not really expensive -- between $10-20 USD / pair, depending on fabric. Yes, they *do* make men's / unisex sizes, if that matters to you. Wash & reuse.
I'm sure they have versions of those 'to-the-elbow' gloves for working near exhaust manifolds, etc. -- so that's an option, too (although more expensive, I'm sure). Plus they'll be thicker, so you'll lose dexterity.
If the filters I use don't have markings on them to show each 1/4 turn, I'll try and put them on with a marker to help gauge the proper 3/4 turn after the gasket contacts the filter boss. Adherence to that process pretty much guarantees you can get it off next time without trouble. And I've never had one loosen up because it wasn't secure enough, as a result. Oh, and smear some oil on the new filter's rubber gasket, if you're not doing this already.
If you want to be really anal about it, you can write a note on the bottom of the 'can' with date, mileage, oil brand, what have you.
With the long wheelbase V8, there's a thin crossmember *right* underneath the filter, so removing is actually a 'spin / slide' combo to get it out. Of course, this means some spillage, so I'm used to it. I don't mind it on my hands, but I *hate* when a lot spills on the crossmember (it's one of those thin ones with a brace and 2" holes end-to-end, so there's a lot of wiping if it gets soaked in oil, unless I want to see oil spots for a few weeks afterward).
The splash shield / rock guard was removed (missing) before I got the truck, but if it had been there, I'd probably have removed it and left it off, myself.
If I were keeping the vehicle, I'd trim the crossmember back , cut it out entirely, or rig up a removable section (it's really not structural, per se). But it's not worth the trouble at this point, tbh.