SOLVED! No crank, sometimes clicks and other times doesn't

[Mooseman]

When I start the vehicle cold, it's steady at 14 and then varies as I go. It's unpredictable, so I can't really "make it 14" when I want to. I've been delaying the thread for the alternator until I fix the major things, which I haven't mentioned all of them yet.

That could be the SARVC doing its thing.

Regulated Voltage Control

Found this while looking for something else, "To be clear, GM’s RVC systems use alternators with field currents that truly are controlled by logic external to the alternator. You’ll see two things right off the bat on RVC vehicles tipping you to the presence of this latest technology: First...

gmtnation.com

I've noticed my '07 going under 14v after the initial startup. You can find the SARVC on the battery cable near the battery. If you unplug it, it will run like a regular alternator and keep it above 14V all the time. The idea of it is to not push unneeded amps into the battery.

 

[Hobbyist4Life]

That could be the SARVC doing its thing.

Regulated Voltage Control

Found this while looking for something else, "To be clear, GM’s RVC systems use alternators with field currents that truly are controlled by logic external to the alternator. You’ll see two things right off the bat on RVC vehicles tipping you to the presence of this latest technology: First...

gmtnation.com

I've noticed my '07 going under 14v after the initial startup. You can find the SARVC on the battery cable near the battery. If you unplug it, it will run like a regular alternator and keep it above 14V all the time. The idea of it is to not push unneeded amps into the battery.

The Alternator has a 4 pin connector, with only the middle 2 being used. However, I don't see anything near the positive or negative cables

 

[TJBaker57]

You can find the SARVC on the battery cable near the battery.

I 'think' this is the device on my 2005 5.3 Yukon SLT

 

[TJBaker57]

I don't recall seeing anything related to crank request or Park/neutral state

See post #11 for the Park Neutral PID in the thread for Torque PIDS.

My bad in the Crank Request PID. I mentioned that but never posted the details. Will remedy that forthwith....

 

[Hobbyist4Life]

I 'think' this is the device on my 2005 5.3 Yukon SLT

View attachment 90993

Yeah, haven't seen that in my car. Will double check tomorrow.

See post #11 for the Park Neutral PID in the thread for Torque PIDS.

My bad in the Crank Request PID. I mentioned that but never posted the details. Will remedy that forthwith....

Oh please do post it




Now, back to topic! I'll open another thread for the alternator when I feel comfortable with this POS starter crap

 

[mrrsm]

Along the lines that you have well and truly thrashed out the possibility of having a Bad Ignition Switch... add in the odd chance of having a Mechanical Problem with the Ignition Lock Cylinder. The idea of this causing a Sketchy, Occasional No-Start condition often gets ignored in the repair calculus and is more likely to occur on High Mileage - Low Trip Distance, Frequently Driven Vehicles... versus Long Haul, High Mileage SUVs used to gallivant on extended trips. The symptoms of this mechanical issue very closely mimic that of having a Bad Ignition Switch:

 

[Hobbyist4Life]

Hello, it's update time!

I do realize that my last post is 2 months and 1 week ago, but the thing is I've been using this vehicle on a daily basis since September 27 (The day I swapped the rear air bags to 09 TB coil springs) and the starter just never bailed on me.

I'm not sure why it acted up the other day after getting it replaced.

So, I think it's safe to say that the problem is solved.