New vs reman brake calipers

[Chickenhawk]

As most of you know, I am pretty anal about handling and brakes. When switching to my winter rims on our 04 Trailblazer LT, I noticed the pads were getting down a bit so I popped off the caliper and looked at the pads. The NAPA Adaptive One pads still had lots of wear left (about 20,000 km since I changed them) and as usual, the inners were worn more than the outers. The inner side of the NAPA ultra premium rotor was also worn more than the outside, leaving a noticeable ridge on the outside where the pad doesn't touch. This is again pretty normal in northern areas because the salt eats rotors more on the inside than the outside. I have new rotors and pads sitting in boxes, and might wait for spring to replace. I am also thinking of replacing both calipers. (Just for fun, I went to AC Delco OEM coated rotors and Akebono ProACT pads.)

There is no indication that the calipers are bad, but there is that uneven wear on the inside versus outside pads that indicate the pistons may be getting a bit sticky. Until now, the only way to replace them was Cardone remanufactured calipers, and paying the core charge and then shipping the old ones back. New factory calipers were stupid expensive. But Raybestos has recently started making brand new calipers and selling them as the highest premium level caliper you could get. Part numbers are FRC11237AN and FRC11238AN. The Raybestos Opti-Cal calipers come with all hardware and brackets. (Part numbers for the EXT model is FRC11237N and FRC11238N.)

Interestingly enough, I found out AC Delco Professional sells the exact same brand new calipers made by Raybestos. The Rock Auto catalog is incorrect; they list the AC Delco as a remanufactured, but that is wrong. They are in fact the same as the Raybestos ones. Part numbers are ACDELCO 18FR1891N and 18FR1893N. EXT models (with the different bracket) use ACDELCO 18FR1892N and 18FR1894N. So if anyone is looking for new calipers, save some money and get the Raybestos brand instead of the same one branded AC Delco.

The nice part is that because they are brand new, there is no core charge.

Any views on remanufactured versus brand new? I know remanufactured can be hit or miss, depending on the quality of the original part and how many times it has been rebuilt. In Canada, NAPA also sells the premium coated Eclipse calipers remanufactured by Cardone for about the same price as the new Raybestos (plus a $65 core charge.)

So new Raybestos Opti-Cal calipers versus remanufactured Cardone coated calipers?

Once you change out the pistons, seals, slider pins, bolts and bleeder screws, is there anything in the body of a reman that can actually go wrong? I just don't know how "premium" a caliper can get?

 

[Sparky]

You're always going to get a little more wear on the inside vs outside simply because of the caliper pistons being on the inside only and relying on the slide pins for the outside brake pad.

I'm of the opinion "if it ain't broke don't fix it" on most of this stuff. I recently replaced both my front calipers, brackets, and pins because the bleeder screws were rusted pretty badly to the calipers and I didn't want to risk busting them off. I went with brakemotive caliper sets because of no core charge and powdercoated, yet cheaper than remans from the local parts store that I'd have to order in anyway. Maybe check them for yours?

My trailblazer still had a factory caliper on front driver side because of a bad bleeder screw and it never gave me trouble despite some likely nasty fluid in it lol. (I should have replaced it technically.) The other three I had replaced over time with remans from advance auto - they were in stock and all worked fine.

 

[Wooluf1952]

I thought all the calipers were the same (SWB vs LWB). Just a differance in bracket size.

 

[Chickenhawk]

They are all the same. The semi-loaded calipers come with brackets; hence the difference in part numbers.

 

[Reprise]

I've read that there really may not be such a thing as a truly 'remanufactured' caliper, given people's visit to facilities and seeing *all* the cores tossed into a pile for the smelter. The end result being that all calipers are essentially 'new'. I can find the reference, if anyone's interested, and may do so anyway- just not on my phone, and certainly not before cup #1

@Chickenhawk - thx for posting this - I'll be inspecting/ likely replacing brakes on the new arrival (before hooking my trailer behind it.)

 

[Mooseman]

My 02, with the older aluminum calipers like yours, lasted the life of the truck. However, the 06 Saab, with the cast iron calipers, had one that the pistons seized up. That one I replaced with some brand (not Cardone, called MVP IIRC)) reman.

I don't know what is really better. Calipers are fairly simple parts. Remans are done using original cores that are within the exact original tolerances. However, new ones, likely made in China, could have some variances. I think that either will be fine.

Whichever you choose, go for the EXT version with corresponding rotor for the increased braking.

 

[cornchip]

Look for the reman units with all new hardware (bolts,slider pins etc). Cheaper brands replate the hardware to look like new, while still having damaged/rounded off hex bolts or deep corrosion of those bolts.

 

[Chickenhawk]

I think Mooseman made a good point. New calipers made in China vs remans made by the factory. The new Raybestos Opti-Call calipers are too new to have much feedback on them yet. Remans don't change out the piston because it is usually a resin piston, and I like the look of the new Raybestos calipers but I still don't see what makes a simple caliper "ultra premium" versus just "premium" or "professional." (You can tell it is all marketing-speak when the "professional" line is the lowest quality.)

Even the bolts are made in China. Not sure I trust them. But then again, what isn't these days? Plus, Raybestos is a pretty trustworthy name. Hmmm.

As for not changing calipers routinely just because they are old, some people say 8 to 10 years is when the rubber parts become hard and corrosion can attack internal components. My truck is now 14 years old. Aside from uneven wear on the pads, there is nothing to indicate the calipers NEED changing. My internal debate is, do I WANT to change them. The last thing I need is to spend over $100 per side and get something no better than what I already have.