New Rack&pinion.. Now, New problem

[Envoy10]

Hello, I just replaced my rack and pinion and power steering lines. The remanufactured r&p came with 2 new inner tie rods and I replaced driver side outer tie rod end. While its not leaking anymore, the steering feels weird. Turning the wheel left, it feels fine. However when I turn the wheel right it feels alot tighter. Turning the wheel gets harder after the first 1.5 turns Id say.

Doing some research, I'm pretty sure the power steering pump is failing. Screeching while turning the wheel at low speeds (especially parallel parking). I'm getting ready to replace the steering pump asap.

Has anyone experienced this? Is me driving like it like this a good idea? I have a long road trip coming up soon, I'd like to get this figured out before.

 

[m.mcmillen]

Did you get an alignment after you changed the rack and pinion? If not, you should and if will most likely take care of your problem.

 

[Envoy10]

I did get an alignment afterwards.

 

[mrrsm]

You have left the main in clue in Post #1 as to what might be wrong by defining that you only changed the Left (Driver's Side) Tie Rod End and not the Right side as well. You can investigate this by Chocking the Front and Back of the Rear Wheels and then elevate the front end on low set Jack Stands. Set the Parking Brake and then turn each wheel ...NOT by using the Steering Wheel... but by grabbing the outer edges of each tire with Gloved Hands and pulling and pushing on the wheels back and forth as completely as possible through their Turn Radius... listening for any grinding or crunching noises... especially on the Passenger Side. Replace the Right Tie Rod End if you detect damage or a "Dry and Loose Socket" condition.

Next... check that the Rack and Pinion Power Steering Hydraulic Cylinder is completely purged of any Trapped Air by ensuring that the Fluid Level in the Power Steering Reservoir is Topped Off. Then... with the Vehicle still elevated on Jack Stands... Start the Engine at an Idle and Cycle the Steering Wheel first clockwise and then counter-clockwise...from Lock to Lock... several times while listening for any changes in the sound of the Power Steering Pump that change from one side to the other. Then re-check the level of the PS Fluid in the Reservoir and top it off as needed to the correct level.

As a General Rule of Thumb... it is sensible to change Steering components bi-laterally so that the effects of wear and tear dominant on one side or the other do not present with asymmetric or puzzling steering and suspension behaviors. Raise the Front End just before lowering the SUV and remove the Wheel Chocks or they can get jammed underneath the tires as the vehicle is being lowered and be very difficult to dislodge when all four wheels are back down on the ground.

 

[Envoy10]

Thanks for the detailed response. I had my mechanic do the labor, I'm limited by my health. How serious/expensive is this issue? I ask because I use this vehicle to make deliveries, don't want to do further damage to the system.

I wasn't expecting to replace the outer tie rod end, the mechanic said the threads were bad. I replaced both outer tie rod ends about a year ago

 

[mrrsm]

Happy to Help, Brother... When you purchased the Replacement Power Steering Unit... it should have come with either Brand New or Reconditioned Inner Tie Rods with Ball Shaped Ends that fit and get locked inside of the Power Steering Cylinder Assembly. A better description would be that they are Hardened Steel Rods with Threaded Ends on one side and the articulating Ball Ends on the other... and these items are what they call "Consumable Wear Components" that are replaceable ...by their very design.

Now while I will admit that doing so is not a common repair task... but if your "Mechanic" did not consider doing so... He is either being lazy ...or he simply is not familiar enough with the "Hardware under the Black Silicone Ribbed Rubber Boots" to know how to perform this special task. There is also the possibility that Reverse Threads are involved that specify which Tie Rod goes on either the Left or the Right Side....and he is simply unaware of what he is doing.

The Last Thing to consider is that while your "Mechanic" was under the front end... ostensibly replacing only One Tie Rod End... he may have fiddled with the one on the Passenger Side of then suspension ......and FUBARed it himself.

Ordinarily... responsible Re-Manufacturing Companies that sell or service Power Steering Hydraulic Units will NOT send out a unit that is not at LEAST OEM quality because NOT having it install and stay in there as per the manual would mean a lot of trouble for the Customers and their companies. So the likelihood that it arrived and got installed with any existing Thread Damage... is very unlikely. I would start to look at the Quality of your "Mechanic's" work... with a very jaundiced eye.

The value of watching the below Video on "How To Replace an Inner Tie Rod" is that it is generic enough to show you what YOUR "Mechanic" should have been able to do himself ...if he was telling the truth about actually finding any Stripped Threads on the Right Side Inner Tie Rod of the Front End:

 

[Mooseman]

I wouldn't totally rip into the mechanic or have complete faith in the rebuilder. I have witnessed a new Mevotech tie-rod out of the box damaged with a visible crack so it is quite possible that the threads inside the tie-rod could be damaged unbeknownst to the rebuilder or the mechanic. And if that R&P was a Cardone, they are not known as a top-tier rebuilder.

 

[Blackstar]

I had the rack replaced in my '02 at a GM dealership about 7 or 8 years ago. Took it for a test drive and noticed the steering was great turning left but harder turning right. Got worse real quick. Dealer took it back then called me to say the rack was a defect. Ordered another and it worked fine. Just sayin'...

 

[Envoy10]

He's done a lot of work on my Envoy, I trust him. I really hope it's not the rack, I can't take the hit. Damn, this steering system is the last work to be done and the car is ready to go.

I need to replace the pump, it's getting harder to drive. Is replacing going to affect this in any way positive or negatively?

 

[Mooseman]

A new pump might do it. If it's weak, it might not be able to keep up with a new rack. I would imagine it was flushed when he replaced the rack so you shouldn't have to worry about that when the pump is replaced.

 

[Envoy10]

I have my doubts though , I didn't have this issue before the rack was changed.

 

[KEEBZ489]

wow... I just logged on to gripe in my thread and read yours first... I did my lines Saturday ( the ones that rust out next to the fuse box ) all was good except a minor leak in the new hose , ac delco brand to boot , and after my 10 mile / 1 hour nyc drive to work this morning the pump in whining. I cant win with this truck

 

[mrrsm]

@KEEBZ489 ... if you are commuting in and out of NYC from either Connecticut, Long Island or New Jersey and have a level floor in a closed Garage.... get some sections of Fresh Cardboard and after laying them out on the floor and Gorilla Taping the margins down... pull the SUV on top and mark the contact areas around the front wheels with a Black Magic Marker. Then start the vehicle and with the Garage Door Wide Open ...allow the engine to idle for around 10-15 minutes. Do NOT sit in the vehicle or allow any access doors leading into your Residence to be left standing open.

Occasionally, rotate the Steering Wheel from Stop to Stop while Parked with the Emergency Brake set. Then back the vehicle out of the Garage and examine the cardboard for any tell-tale drip and/or Power Steering Fluid Saturation points. This should go a long way in isolating where you should closely examine the PS Pump...the lines and fittings and the Hydraulic Pressure Cylinder itself for definite leaks that can eliminate guessing where to find the problem.

As you probably already know... CO (Carbon Monoxide) is an odorless, tasteless Toxic By-Product of incomplete combustion in the Exhaust Stream that is also much more attractive to human Hemoglobin in the Blood Stream than even Pure Oxygen when inhaling the exhaust vapors... so you should never attempt this process without proper ventilation ---> with the back of the Exhaust directed out into the open air. People who make mistakes with this procedure are in serious danger if they fail to follow these precautions... 'Death... Is Nature's Way of Telling you to ...Slow Down'.

 

[KEEBZ489]

thanks , I know where the leak is , I can see it running out. its the low pressure line where it angles down off the back of the strut tower receiving the hose coming up from the rack. its a crimped hose clamp , hoping the metal line isn't damaged inside the hose , a new 5/8 clamp should solve it. the high pressure line has a crimped on " cap" if it it makes sense , like a mushroom head that its 1" long down the hose just pissed its a new line !!

 

[Petnatcar]

Hello, I just replaced my rack and pinion and power steering lines. The remanufactured r&p came with 2 new inner tie rods and I replaced driver side outer tie rod end. While its not leaking anymore, the steering feels weird. Turning the wheel left, it feels fine. However when I turn the wheel right it feels alot tighter. Turning the wheel gets harder after the first 1.5 turns Id say.

Doing some research, I'm pretty sure the power steering pump is failing. Screeching while turning the wheel at low speeds (especially parallel parking). I'm getting ready to replace the steering pump asap.

Has anyone experienced this? Is me driving like it like this a good idea? I have a long road trip coming up soon, I'd like to get this figured out before.

 

[Petnatcar]

Envoy,
I just finished the rack & pinion on my TB.
Bleeding the system is very important.
WITH THE ENGINE OFF:
1- Fill up the Reservoir and rotate the steering wheel slowly from bump
stop to bump stop at least 10 times.
This does nothing but do it anyways.
2- Check the fluid level and add if needed
3- Turn the engine over until it just barely starts then switch it off.
DO NOT LET THE ENGINE RUN....yet.
Check fluid level and add a little and rotate the wheel.
4- Repeat #3
5- Repeat #4
6- Fluid level should be stable now so start the engine and
check for leaks then switch it off and check fluid level.
7- Take it out and do some slow speed figure eights and check the fluid
once more.

My pump never screeched before or after the repair.
You might need another pump.

Good luck.

 

[Envoy10]

Pet

Envoy,
I just finished the rack & pinion on my TB.
Bleeding the system is very important.
WITH THE ENGINE OFF:
1- Fill up the Reservoir and rotate the steering wheel slowly from bump
stop to bump stop at least 10 times.
This does nothing but do it anyways.
2- Check the fluid level and add if needed
3- Turn the engine over until it just barely starts then switch it off.
DO NOT LET THE ENGINE RUN....yet.
Check fluid level and add a little and rotate the wheel.
4- Repeat #3
5- Repeat #4
6- Fluid level should be stable now so start the engine and
check for leaks then switch it off and check fluid level.
7- Take it out and do some slow speed figure eights and check the fluid
once more.

My pump never screeched before or after the repair.
You might need another pump.

Good luck.

Thanks for the reply. Did you deal with the hard turning of the steering wheel at all with your installation? I decided to have the pump replaced next week. Hopefully, after that is replaced, doing these steps you laid out will help.

 

[Petnatcar]

I never had any hard turning issues before or after replacing the steering rack.
There is a terrific write up on replacing the rack in another section of this site by Jerry ? and he describes this technique for bleeding the system. That's what I followed.

 

[Envoy10]

Does anyone know what the correct size for the power steering pump inline filter? 3/8, 5/8 or 1/2

 

[Mooseman]

Never used one of those since I flush the system before swapping parts so no worries about dirt. 3/8 sounds like the proper size if you have to put one on.