New Intermediate Shaft Bearing Sounds & Feels Dry

[coh998]

As part of my Oil Pan replacement project on my daughter's '03 TB LT 4WD, I bought a new Intermediate Shaft Bearing / 4WD Actuator assembly. Rotating both bearings by hand sounds and feels dry. Shouldn't this entire housing and both bearings be packed with grease?! Should I split this case open and fill it with grease before installation? If so, what kind? I don't know what's in it (if any!); should I go with any name brand Synthetic Wheel Bearing Grease, or is there something special required for compatibility with the Oil Seals? Thanks!

 

[Mooseman]

What brand is the disconnect? It should be packed with grease but maybe the factory in China got cheap? Guys that rebuild them themselves use the red synthetic grease. I like the Lucas red grease myself and have had great results with it on my trailer wheel bearings.

 

[coh998]

What brand is the disconnect? It should be packed with grease but maybe the factory in China got cheap? Guys that rebuild them themselves use the red synthetic grease. I like the Lucas red grease myself and have had great results with it on my trailer wheel bearings.

Brand is "Ransoto" off of Amazon. Great price; reasonable reviews. Having seen the way it arrives with my own eyes, I believe the reviews that talk about early failure are from the guys that just installed it as-is. It seems like a quality part, well machined, there's just apparently nowhere near enough grease in it. I will be taking it apart and packing the bearings to the brim. But I've heard vague rumors about some grease types not being compatible with some seal rubber types, only I can't remember which is which... or maybe that was RTV silicon gasket sealers...

 

[Mooseman]

I doubt any type of normal grease will cause issues with the seals. I sure don't have much faith in the quality of that "brand". I have heard that some of these have poor quality actuators (the plastic electrical part) and guys have been using the old original one. I'd definitely open it and grease it up. I know the original OEM one would be filled with a poor quality grease that congealed which contributes to their failure.

 

[coh998]

I sure don't have much faith in the quality of that "brand". I have heard that some of these have poor quality actuators (the plastic electrical part) and guys have been using the old original one.

Yes, I saw those reviews. I'm keeping the old one just in case. Or if this new one fails, I might just go with an OEM replacement. It's easy to R&R, unlike the housing itself.

 

[coh998]

I doubt any type of normal grease will cause issues with the seals. I sure don't have much faith in the quality of that "brand". I have heard that some of these have poor quality actuators (the plastic electrical part) and guys have been using the old original one. I'd definitely open it and grease it up. I know the original OEM one would be filled with a poor quality grease that congealed which contributes to their failure.

Mooseman, do you have a brand name you recommend for this part? I put the Ransoto bearing housing on the oil pan to check fit, and I see that the mounting holes are slightly misplaced and the bolts bind on the sides of the holes. Not so much that I couldn't jam it on there, but I'd rather not. Should I pony up for the ACDelco part or is there a 3rd party version with decent price and reliability? Thanks...

 

[Mooseman]

US Powertrain on eBay.

 

[coh998]

US Powertrain on eBay.

Thanks, Mooseman. Her budget is scraping the bottom of her purse. $200 more than the new one we have is out of reach right now. I still have to replace all the engine/drivetrain fluids, and probably the waterpump/thermostat and tensioner pulleys, too. It's been sitting for over 4 years.

We're approaching 2k$ on this front suspension/drivetrain rehab project and she's in the middle of a contested divorce. We'll need new tires all the way around plus another wheel for the missing spare, and a new winch mechanism to stow it... Soon after we get all that done and put it into service, I expect some other things I haven't even thought of yet are going to jump up and demand even more $$$...

I'll dissassemble the Ransosto one I have, relieve the mounting holes a tiny bit so they don't bind, upgrade the case assy bolts, and make sure the bearings have plenty of grease. Most of the review complaints on this assy center on the cheap-ass electronic actuator part being flimsy and failing right out of the box, or soon after. I'll test the old actuator, see how it works with the new housing, use it, and then if it fails I'll order the OEM actuator for $150. That part is not difficult to access or replace. Maybe there'll be enough $$ left over after everything else is bought and paid for to just get the OEM actuator and keep the old one as a spare. Thanks again!

 

[Mooseman]

At worse, you can disable, temporarily or permanently, the front wheels. You can leave the front axles and front driveshaft out. If she doesn't need 4x4, it can also save a little on gas.

 

[coh998]

Nah, she needs the 4WD. She'll be moving to a place with a long, steep, twisty-turny, unpaved "driveway". So-called. Even dry she'll need the 4WD to get up there. Forget about rain or snow... Thanks for your help! I'm sure you haven't heard the last of me on this project... ;-)