New injectors in but throttle body dead?

WeaponX

Well-Known Member
Well I got all the new injectors in but my throttle body isn’t working? I retraced all my steps and everything is hooked up and hooked up properly.
I’m posting just Incase there is some secret step I might have missed? It’s running so I’m getting fuel but when I step on the gas the throttle doesn’t even open up so I know it’s the throttle and I checked the fuses and like I said all connections are fine.
I’m planning a junk yard run for the throttle tomorrow (if no rain) unless I’m missing something? Thanks guys for the help and all the help with the fuel injector install
 

christo829

Well-Known Member
In addition to what m.mcmillen said, check your accelerator position sensor for proper power and function. Pretty sure all of the failure points we've suggested should throw some sort of error code, though.

Good Luck!

Chris
 

Maverick6587

Silver Supporter
Did you unhook the battery for 30 minutes to reset the throttle body?
 
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WeaponX

WeaponX

Well-Known Member
I have no error codes at all? The internals, I’m assuming you mean opening and closing the tb plate? I did not disconnect for 30 minutes, 5 minutes yes but I’ll try the 30 and see what happens and I’ll also try testing the sensor.
Thanks for all the help
 
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WeaponX

WeaponX

Well-Known Member
Also I forgot when I push the pedal down it is dumping gas in cause the ROMs go up but since I’m not letting air in as well it comes close to dying and then levels off and just idles but it doesn’t get any higher than 2500rpms
 
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WeaponX

WeaponX

Well-Known Member
In addition to what m.mcmillen said, check your accelerator position sensor for proper power and function. Pretty sure all of the failure points we've suggested should throw some sort of error code, though.

Good Luck!

Chris
Where is the sensor located?
 

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
This Video will (generically) show you the ACC (Gas Pedal) Sensor "Chris" @christo849 is referring to in Post #3 The ACC Pedal Sensor actually has (3) Circuits to analyze: An (A) Circuit for Higher Voltage Referencing between (0-5) Volts DC ... A (B) Circuit which should diminish as the voltage increases on the (A) Circuit...and a (5) Volt Reference Circuit for the PCM to use as a Base Line when reading the changes as the Gas Pedal gets Depressed and Released... as well as Power and Ground connections within that slender Electrical Wiring Harness Connector.

The ACC Pedal Sensor PIDs can be observed using your Torque App...and with the Engine OFF and the Key set to On-Run, you should be able to see both (A) and (B) Voltages changing on screen as you Depress and Release the 'Gas Pedal'. The ACC Sensor relates to the Throttle Position Sensor while BOTH communicate their 'theoretical' positions...and the PCM Decides from BOTH, along with other information... just how much Pulse Width and Duration of the EFIs is required to achieve 14.7:1 Stoichiometric Balance as the Engine Power Rises and Falls. Whether or not this is possible to perform depends upon the ACC Pedal vs. the TPS Positions AND the "Rate of Change" and Demand for Torque....with the Caveat of Performing these immediate Engine Running Conditions....SAFELY.

If there is ANY discrepancy within the Redundant ACC Pedal Circuitry that threatens to cause a "Runaway Wide Open Throttle" Condition... The PCM will automatically reduce the Number of Cylinder Coil On Plug Firings... thereby cutting the engine power down enough (often suddenly) to Prevent an Accident with a possible Out Of Control Vehicle. There are a few other scenarios that also involve Power to the MAF Sensor being shunted that will likewise create a "Reduced Power" condition (for AWD and 4WD SUVs, too with TCCM Issues). But generally... The problem is between the Throttle Body Electronics, Connectors or Pigtails-Wires-Grounds going sideways... or a Bad ACC Pedal Sensor will also bring the Engine Power safely Down.


Gentlemen... Please remember @Mounce 's recent observation about the value of using an Oscilloscope for Diagnosis . THIS is THE Signature Video concerning TPS and APP Problem Diagnosis. You will appreciate following this Lesson if you Download/Save/Review all this great information later on!:


Because the OP's Title involves the ongoing Battle between STFT and LTFT ...This Two Part White Board Instructional might break down many more aspects that can help sort things out here with additional clues at hand:


 
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Mooseman

Moderator
You also have to be sure the throttle body is clean after disconnecting the battery. Not just sprayed from the outside while running but with carb cleaner and a toothbrush with it in your hands.
 
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WeaponX

WeaponX

Well-Known Member
Well I found the issue and it was almost like the hand of god helped me lol.
I had one bad fuel injectors out of the 6 that came in the mail but I thought I threw all of them away last night for garbage night but there was one sitting on the ground at the end of the driveway. I put the old one in in place of the one that was bad (since someone who was watching the TB as I hit the gas and told me it wasn’t opening, which I later saw it was) cause I was kicking a misfire code so I unplugged each coil one by one and only one of the 6 had no effect when it got unplugged.
I ripped it all apart and the one injector was covered in crap and the other still clean.
Anyway problem fixed until the new one comes in the mail I just hope it’s that lone old one making the ticking noise because I’m not messing with the lifters lol.
Thanks for all the help guys
 

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