NEED HELP New fuel pump in and now a whole new problem.

[xavierny25]

Hey guys, So I replaced my fuel pump today. Took me sometime to do it because the tank was full and I brought it down and back up with a full tank. Not fun at all.

After I was done and reconnected the battery I saw the driver side marker was on and my led fogs flicker. I went to the cabin thinking I may of left something on before I unplugged the battery but no response from the light switches. I said screw it and tried to turn the engine over and nothing but a cel light and the key is now stuck. I cant get it to do anything at all but go back and forth from start and run position. The cel comes on everytime I bring it to the start position.

I started checking fuses and other stuff but it got darker and colder a whole lot earlier then I expected.

I've got a new ignition switch in my bag of goodies for that unexpected moment it does go, so I'm going to give that a try in the morning. I'm also going to go over all the connection I removed and put back are nice and tight.
The reason for the fuel pump replacement was it wouldn't start at all for the wife yesterday morning. When I got home I could crank and start but it would shut off 3- 5 second later. I'd have to what about 10 minutes before I could attempt to start and it would do it again start and die.

I hope I didn't just kill the Voy while trying to repair it. If anyone has any info I maybe over looking please fill me in.

My brain and body ache from fighting with that tank all day. Those gas line clips are the devil, I swear.

 

[Mounce]

Battery voltage? Dead battery will lock your key like that.

Or could even be the terminals connection since you had it disconnected.

 

[littleblazer]

My terminal connections messed with me like that as well. Make them really tight...

 

[xavierny25]

I disconnect and reconnected the battery a few times to reset everything. I cleaned them up to be sure it wasn't something as simple as the battery leads.

Battery is good, showing 12.8 volts. I even put a booster/ charger pack on it for 45 minutes to be sure it was charged up and good.

Edit: I'm also getting some clicks and clacks from the pcm area not sure what that's about.

It still keeping that driver side blinker on and fogs are still flickering I really have to get that sorted out.

 

[Mooseman]

Maybe the ground wire on the frame? Mega fuse? Try reading for codes. Could point to something.

Light switch not working shouldn't be affected by ignition switch. Brake lights work? Almost sounds like the BCM is not getting power.

 

[Mounce]

Clicks and clacks are probably the throttle body. It'll do a quick bump as a self test under whatever circumstance. I think key on without cranking makes it test.

Also, what brand pump? The flickering bulbs is generally from back feed/upset modules. Any chance you could unplug the new pump without dropping the tank again and see if all issues subside?

 

[xavierny25]

I'm going out to the truck shortly to look it over with meter in hand. Thanks guys and wish me luck I think I'm going to need it this time around. I'll follow up with whatever I find out.

 

[xavierny25]

With a good amount of light out this morning I found a break in a ground wire to the frame from the battery. I had a spare cable so I swapped it in checking it all out as I did.

So now I have my key back and all the bells and whistles are back but it wont start. It just cranks and cranks with the cel and battery light on. I got it to sputter for a short while it almost started. I went and grabbed my battery pack thinking maybe the battery was to low to start it after alot of trying to get it to turn over. When I got back to the car I connected the battery pack and know it wont even engage the starter.
I tried to check for codes with my reader but nothing comes up.

 

[littleblazer]

With a good amount of light out this morning I found a break in a ground wire to the frame from the battery. I had a spare cable so I swapped it in checking it all out as I did.

So now I have my key back and all the bells and whistles are back but it wont start. It just cranks and cranks with the cel and battery light on. I got it to sputter for a short while it almost started. I went and grabbed my battery pack thinking maybe the battery was to low to start it after alot of trying to get it to turn over. When I got back to the car I connected the battery pack and know it wont even engage the starter.
I tried to check for codes with my reader but nothing comes up.

You may have to do a passkey relearn. I don't remember the details but google security relearn. I'd bet that's it.

 

[xavierny25]

You may have to do a passkey relearn. I don't remember the details but google security relearn. I'd bet that's it.

I'll give that a try but the passlock icon isn't lite and the fob is working just fine.

 

[Mooseman]

If it was the security relearn thing, it wouldn't even crank and you'd get the security light.

Did you replace the ignition switch?

 

[littleblazer]

I'll give that a try but the passlock icon isn't lite and the fob is working just fine.

My buddies truck behaved the same way. Can't hurt

 

[xavierny25]

If it was the security relearn thing, it wouldn't even crank and you'd get the security light.

Did you replace the ignition switch?

Nope, since I was able to get all the bells and whistles back and get it to crank I didn't think it would be necessary.

I gave it another go after having the battery pack on for a short while and it cranks but no start. I hope I didn't get a bad pump from my local auto part it's a Delphi pump btw. There is fuel at the test valve port.

 

[Mooseman]

Somebody else had an issue with Delphi pumps.

 

[xavierny25]

Somebody else had an issue with Delphi pumps.

I hope that's not the case here but I'm pretty much stuck till I can get it to crank again and continue checking thing out.

 

[Matt]

So I replaced my fuel pump today.

It's a prick of a job, isn't it?

 

[Mooseman]

Re-found this thread.
Cranks but won't start

Classic flowcharting of this has three initial categories. Fuel, air spark. Fuel: check fuel pressure, listen for fuel pump, spray starting fluid into the intake. Air: observe throttle body butterfly plate with the resonator removed. Spark: check coil-related fuses, Wiring harness after the ignition switch, pull coil and plug to observe spark.

 

[xavierny25]

It's a prick of a job, isn't it?

It sure was, I'm not planning on doing it ever again. When I said full tank I meant it.
I used a 2 Jack method to get it back up and in.
I used a big board slid it to the back got everything connected up front and strapped. I then brought it down a bit to be able to slide it forward to the front of the truck got everything connected back there and brought it up the rest of the way. NEVER AGAIN.

 

[Sparky]

When you turn the key on do you hear the pump prime?

The fuel pump harness runs along the driver frame and there is a connector there before it runs to the pump itself. You can check there for voltage when you have the key to on. Mine actually had a failure at that connector (corrosion in the terminals) which caused it to heat up, melt some plastic, and short out. My fix was just eliminate that connector and direct wire it seeing as it had a connector at the fuel pump if I ever had to replace it (thankfully did not).

 

[xavierny25]

SHE'S ALIVE!!!
I had my brother-in-law come by with his con-ed truck. I let it charge off of his truck and after about 15- 30 minutes of cranking and letting it sit and charge she finally turned over. I got a code a random p300 code but after letting it idle down it went away.
And that's the story I guess a semi charged battery is not going to cut it. Lesson learned.

it really did take alot for the system to prime up the gas pressure needed to turn over with a died battery just made things worse.

 

[xavierny25]

Spoke to soon maybe? Test drove it for the last 20 minutes to get a few things I needed and also return something's I didn't at autozone. I left AZ heading home and hit a decent size pothole. The Voy started sputtering and almost shut off, then I smelt gas. I pulled it into a corner parking spot shut it down and made an exit. I backed off and sure a hell gas was on the floor at the curb. I walked over to the middle of the street and could see she started leaking shortly after I hit the pothole. I tell you those clips are the DEVIL.

I hope I can just order a whole new set of them and switch them out. They where all pretty brittle when I was pulling them out. To be continued!!!

Lucky the walk home is only 6 blocks so I'm good I guess. Lol

 

[littleblazer]

Spoke to soon maybe? Test drove it for the last 20 minutes to get a few things I needed and also return something's I didn't at autozone. I left AZ heading home and hit a decent size pothole. The Voy started sputtering and almost shut off, then I smelt gas. I pulled it into a corner parking spot shut it down and made an exit. I backed off and sure a hell gas was on the floor at the curb. I walked over to the middle of the street and could see she started leaking shortly after I hit the pothole. I tell you those clips are the DEVIL.

I hope I can just order a whole new set of them and switch them out. They where all pretty brittle when I was pulling them out. To be continued!!!

Lucky the walk home is only 6 blocks so I'm good I guess. Lol

On mine I had to replace the plastic sealer and clips on the lines on the pump itself.

 

[Mooseman]

Unsolved it.

I had issues with the seals and collar inside the pipe connectors as well as the clips.
Fuel pump pipe seal and collar

 

[xavierny25]

Well checked online and it seems autozone has them in stock. I called them up to verify and its seems they do. While looking online I hit more info and got this.
I'm sure alot of ppl just reuse the old ones, I guess I'm not that lucky.

 

[littleblazer]

Well checked online and it seems autozone has them in stock. I called them up to verify and its seems they do. While looking online I hit more info and got this.View attachment 86763
I'm sure alot of ppl just reuse the old ones, I guess I'm not that lucky.

Mine were stretched due to rust. I paid 5$ for 1 at the dealer because local didn't have the smaller one. And the guy cut me a break, the last was 12$ lol.

 

[xavierny25]

Well after making a run to Auto Zone after work had the b-i-l pick me up. We headed to my house to pick up my Jack and stands and some tools just in case I had to drop the tank some. Drove over to the truck jacked it up on stands and got to work. After some searching found the line that let go at the front of the tank(or should I say towards the front of the Voy). The top center of the clip was cracked and the legs went out to the side. Pulled that out of there pushed the lines back in which wasn't easy. Pushed in a new clip and the job is finally done. Test drove it around the area for about 1hr and all seems good now. Thank you guys for all the invaluable info.

 

[Blckshdw]

Glad that misadventure is in the books. Re-marking as solved.

 

[xavierny25]

I guess this misadventure isn't over just yet. Went out with the wife after work to run some errands and the cel came on P0451. Either the clip came loose on the tank pressure sensor or I've got another line that came undone. Oh what joy! I'll be bringing it in to my brother's shop on Friday after I drop the wifey of at work. This time around if I have to drop the tank it will be close to empty luckily. Murphy's law is kicking me straight in the !@#$ with the last couple of issues the truck has been having.

 

[Mooseman]

Unsolved it again. Maybe we'll wait a week before making it solved.

I.know how you feel. Misfires anyone?

 

[mrrsm]

The one additional thing worth investigating is the follow-on work done by @xavierny25 with the Wire Replacement ... and this involves Testing the Battery for any signs of Parasitic Drain. This allows the chance to observe the vehicle when the engine is not running and determine if there are more Electrical Gremlins shorting out and gnawing their way in between the Ignition, The Fuel Pump Relay and Fuse(s) and The Fuel Pump once the Key is turned and the Pump is powered up. ANY parasitic draw... however minute... might be easier to trace and help to isolate the problem with this method. This link has more information on the procedures for this:

https://gmtnation.com/forums/thread...s-for-performing-a-parasitic-draw-test.18966/

Also... for anyone else in need of having to Drop the Fuel Tank... there is a GMTN Thread covering those procedures that will make for a very quick and safe way to do this by emptying the Tank:

https://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/de-fueling-no-fooling.17840/

The last suggestion is for those like-minded Mechanics intent on Dropping the Tank for a Fuel Pump Replacement and encumbered by NOT having readily available Compressed Air:

Use Canned AIr... Instead:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DZYEXPQ/?tag=gmtnation-20


Once that Thin Red Plastic Nozzle Hose gets plugged in... the amount of Power hidden in those small cans of Pressurized Air (Its R-134A ...actually) is astonishing. This technique will allow for the top areas of the tank to get blown clean of all that collected Road Sand, Grit & Salt BEFORE it gets "Un-Corked" exposing the Tank Innards to all of that Nasty Crap.

Once it gets scrubbed clean all around the Pump Flange... The Canned Air will do a very satisfactory job of removing all that impacted Dirt and Debris and make for a Nice, Clean Work Area. This stuff is available in the recommended 'Four Packs' for around $15.00 and is a Helluva-Lot-EZR to manipulate around a Tight and Confined Work Areas than Clunky Tanks and Hung-Up Hoses for lots of Dirty Jobs ...just like this one: