New exhaust installed.

[Stuntmanmike77]

I got my new exhaust in today. Only issue is the tailpipe assy. gets pretty hot and the pipe i used is slightly oversized and is pretty close to the steel brake line. Doesn't seem like line is getting hot at operating temp. I drilled off the tailpipe heat shield and kept it just in case however, I don't think it will fit. Anyone ever put these back on or mock something up? That's the brake line on the left.

 

[mrrsm]

Good Safety Issue Follow Up. Mike....

Strongly Recommend swapping any Standard "U" Clamps for the S/S Band Clamps as available on eBay. It looks like the Exhaust Stream is jetting out and concentrating the Heat on that frame section. If you have the room around that piping... after securing those flange mate ups... wrapping some 2" Thermal Header Wrap around that junction and securing the wrappings with S/S Zip Ties would probably help to solve the Thermal Runaway issue:

S/S Band Clamps are abundant on eBay in a wide range of butt-step-down Matching Piping Sizes:

exhaust pipe s/s band clamps for sale | eBay

Get the best deals for exhaust pipe s/s band clamps at eBay.com. We have a great online selection at the lowest prices with Fast & Free shipping on many items!

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Example Image:



Likewise... Header Wrap with S/S Zip Ties eBay Offer (Buy EXTRA S/S Zip Ties):

Electronics, Cars, Fashion, Collectibles & More | eBay

Buy & sell electronics, cars, clothes, collectibles & more on eBay, the world's online marketplace. Top brands, low prices & free shipping on many items.

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[Stuntmanmike77]

Well I ordered longer hangers caused the exhaust system is now forced upward. Had to use a prybar to pull it up high enough because apparently the hangers I got with it were too short and there is no movement at all! If I get it to drop down at least a quarter inch would that help? One of the new hangers is already starting to tear from the pressure. And I have condensation dripping from my clamp joints. I'm guessing not tight enough? I don't really want to dump a lot of money into a stock replacement system.

 

[Stuntmanmike77]

Thr problem with the band clamps is that i have 2 clamps right there connecting reducer on the muffler side and the tailpipe side. No one is welding right now and I put off doing this as long as i could. Today I wemt out and when i got back home the exhaust had this chemical smell coming from it, maybe normal from all new pipes (cat-back) burning off crap nut seems REALLY hot by that brake line. Line was not hot as I burned my finger feeling in between the 2. Is it normal to get that hot that far back? I drilled off the heat shield from the old pipe and have to fit that maybe. I noticed though, new exhaust systems do not come with shields so, idk. The heat has me a little concerned though.

 

[mrrsm]

The 'condensation' dripping down from the Clamp Joints is actually the Water created as a By-Product of normal Internal Combustion collecting inside the piping nearby and then gradually draining through small openings-gaps. So its presence is proof that the two "stove piped" exhaust sections are either canted off angle and forming an un-sealable space... or as can happen from time to time... Over-Tightening of the "U" Style Clamps can *kink* the pipes enough to create a Gap. Check with Autozone for some High Temperature Exhaust Tape as perhaps another inexpensive way to "Pre-Wrap" things up and THEN install the "U" Clamps.

Please beware of any continued "Chemical Smell" as possibly being caused by the Radiant Heat build up getting transferred into directly into the body pan interior and perhaps heating up toxic Carpet Padding Adhesive, etc.

 

[Stuntmanmike77]

Well, I have to take the tailpipe back out to put the heat shield on the new pipe but, have to wait for strapping and new hangers to come in. Is there a torque spec or rule of thumb on how tight the clamps should be? I don't want to damage the pipe cause i have to remove it again but there is a LOT of water dripping out of those connections. I have some high temp exhaust rtv sealer. Will that work considering I'll probably have to take the entire thing apart cause the muffler heat shield is hanging as well.

 

[mrrsm]

Because the processes of all Internal Combustion Engines involves “Noisy, Violent” Exothermic Activities... it is often easy to forget that the Pure Chemistry behind what makes our engines run has a LOT more to do with Liquid Hydrocarbons COMBINING with Oxygen and in addition to releasing Carbon Di-Oxide and a Helluva Lot of HEAT ENERGY... the last and most innocuous part of the process produces an ENORMOUS amount of Waste Water that passes unseen for the most part out of the Tail Pipes as harmless and useful Water Vapor. But if you were to collect ALL of the Water produced in the Burning of 1 Gallon of Fuel... it actually would weigh almost 1.5 Times as much vs. its original Mass/Volume of the One Gallon of Gasoline!

Here is the Basic Chemistry supporting this process involving ALL of the players involved:

Molecular weights of the representative octane combustion are C8H18 114, O2 32, CO2 44, H2O 18; therefore 1kg of fuel reacts with 3.51 kg of oxygen to produce 3.09kg of carbon dioxide and 1.42kg of water.

Exerted from the Wiki on "Gasoline":

Gasoline - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

This Video has some interesting insights into joining two pipe segments using some VERY Hi-Temp Copper impregnated Silicone as the means of filling in any minor gaps in between the mating segments ...and of course investing in decent S/S 360 Degree Band Clamps with Dual Fasteners that should work MUCH better than any Cheap "U" Style Clamps ever will:

I like this one too...even though the Prep Work necessary to clean up the Rusty Outer Pipe Segments leaves much to be desired... the VOP shows the clamping and installation with the limitation of a MAX of 55 Foot Pounds of Torque on Both Fasteners:

 

[Stuntmanmike77]

Great Info, thanks.

 

[fixer34]

As someone who apparently replaced the exhaust system recently, maybe you can answer my question. I need to replace the entire system (cat and pipes/mufflers) on my daughter's 2002 LTZ. How much of a PITA is it and can it be done without a lift? I have some ramps that will get the back tires up about a foot, but is that enough clearance?

 

[Mike534x]

As someone who apparently replaced the exhaust system recently, maybe you can answer my question. I need to replace the entire system (cat and pipes/mufflers) on my daughter's 2002 LTZ. How much of a PITA is it and can it be done without a lift? I have some ramps that will get the back tires up about a foot, but is that enough clearance?

Its pretty doable with the truck on ramps, even better if you put some jack stands in the front for more clearance underneath. I tried doing the muffler, but I had a shop replace mine since I was worried about exhaust leaks from using clamps. The only problems you'll be facing are the bolts breaking when attempting to remove the cats, given the trucks age that'll more then likely happen. I would get a good penetrating oil, and over the course of the week go under and keep spraying down every bolt and whatnot to make your life easier when you do replace everything. It probably wouldn't hurt to have a few on hand/replace the existing ones.

I'm dreading doing my cats when the time comes haha.

 

[Mooseman]

As mentioned, the studs at the exhaust manifold will be your worst spot. They will likely break. If they do snap, you will need torches. Even if they don't snap when you take the nuts off, you will need heat to get them out to replace them.