NEED HELP Need to replace 2006 4.2L

[Ryan C]

Poorly rebuilt (according to my mechanic) IL6 threw a rod on the highway. In searching for a replacement, it looks like '06-'07 can be cleanly swapped. Also looks like they're nearly impossible to find cheap.

Does it matter if the replacement is from a 2WD or 4x4, Saab, Rainier, et c.?

Any advice before I bite the bullet on Ebay or Craigslist? No junkyard within 200 miles has one for less than $1700.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Ziggy]

http://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/sea...651381&userUID=0&userBroker=&userPage=1&iKey=

Looks like Neal Auto Parts in Peoria has several... Pretty accurate on the price point, though.

 

[Ryan C]

Thanks - have talked to them.
The best I've found is an 06 Envoy engine for $750. From a 2WD w/ 170k.

 

[Ziggy]

$750 seems like a pretty good price, but you should plan on doing a teardown and rebuild while it's out, unless you can do all the compression checks and hear it run and such before it gets pulled. That's a lot of miles to risk just swapping into your truck. It would suck to swap it in, and only be able to get 20 or 30k out of it before needing to do major work again.

 

[djthumper]

The engine doesn't matter if it is 4WD or from another 360 as long as it is an 06 or 07, IIRC

 

[Mooseman]

Even the oil pan is the same between 2wd and 4x4. If you can before purchase, pull off the valve cover and check for gunked up oil. I mean like a real goopy mess showing that it hasn't been maintained well. These engines do last if well maintained. (not saying you didn't though )

 

[ChrisinVictoria]

I have had luck with car-part.com

 

[limequat]

Agree with all posts above.
* any engine 2002-2007 will interchange with minor modifications (ECT moved positions in 2006).
* car-part.com completely and utterly is the shit
* good idea on looking at the valve cover. In my experience the darkness of the underside correlates directly to the condition of the engine.

 

[comet95]

have you tried lkqonline.

 

[Ryan C]

Found a engine with 95k on Ebay; was installed yesterday. Runs great!

Except: Tachometer is dead, and fuel gauge (shows empty on a full tank, complete with warning light), CEL too.

All other gauges and lights work (that I know of). My mechanic checked every fuse and wire, and is stumped.

Any ideas what's wrong? She's running fantastic otherwise...

 

[mrrsm]

You didn't mention this...but did you get the PCM with this Engine and swap it out with your original?

 

[Blckshdw]

Except: Tachometer is dead, and fuel gauge (shows empty on a full tank, complete with warning light), CEL too.

All other gauges and lights work (that I know of). My mechanic checked every fuse and wire, and is stumped.

Any ideas what's wrong? She's running fantastic otherwise...

If you have a CEL, first thing your mechanic should have done was scan it for trouble codes. It'll save you quite a bit of time from checking random fuses and wires, if you have a map to a starting point.

 

[Ryan C]

CEL isn't on; the light doesn't work now. He scanned and came up clean.
PCM wasn't included with the engine :/

By the way - thanks for all of the quick responses here. This site is much more useful than Trailvoy!

 

[07TrailyLS]

Probably going to have some major issues with your pcm trying to read a different engine? Could be wrong

 

[mrrsm]

Ryan... FWIW...

Just for Drill... You might consider contacting the Engine Seller and ask if they still have the PCM from the very same vehicle that your engine was parted out from and see if they would be kind enough to send it your way at a Modest Price. After all ...you DID buy THEIR engine in Good Faith... Yes?

(In for a Penny...In for a Pound)

 

[Blckshdw]

You'll need to get a CASE relearn done. Not sure if that will have any bearing on the tachometer and fuel gauges.

Outside of the engine swap, I would normally suspect failing stepper motors. Do both of the needles stay at the zero mark? Do they move at all, or rest below/above the zero mark?

 

[mrrsm]

This might be a last ditch try to find an 'Electrical Ghost in the Machine"...But....If you can recall all of the various connectors you had to attach during the swap then, after disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes or so, methodically examine each MetraPack for any dislodged or broken wires, disconnecting each one and spraying both the Male and Female internals of the connectors with CRC "Lectra Clean". This tactic might clean out any lingering debris that often collects at the Auto Parts Yards and sort of "Wake Up" the electrical conductivity of each connector.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Q1AB5U/?tag=gmtnation-20

 

[djthumper]

Found a engine with 95k on Ebay; was installed yesterday. Runs great!

Except: Tachometer is dead, and fuel gauge (shows empty on a full tank, complete with warning light), CEL too.

All other gauges and lights work (that I know of). My mechanic checked every fuse and wire, and is stumped.

Any ideas what's wrong? She's running fantastic otherwise...

You never stated what year the engine was from.

 

[Ryan C]

Oh, shoot. It's from an 07 Envoy.
Both tach and fuel are completely non-responsive (other than the empty tank warning light).

 

[07TrailyLS]

Fuel gauge readings have nothing to do with your engine. Your fuel level indicator reads from a sensor inside of the gas tank in the rear. Sounds like a random blown fuse or your just unlucky. Not sure what sensor your tach runs off so maybe you just forgot to hook the sensor back up after the replacement?

 

[mrrsm]

Does the PCM rely upon the Copper Bonding Strap from the body of the vehicle to be well attached to the engine to finalize inputs from all of the Engine/Fuel Management Sensors?

 

[smt 59]

Just a reminder that these trucks have major issues with the instrument clusters, there was a class action suit against GM and original owners now get an extended warranty or if you replaced it on your own they will reimburse the cost. Look it up on google.

 

[Ryan C]

This is a new-to-me vehicle, so I'll have to float any costs myself (getting expensive at the moment

I've contact the engine seller about getting the original PCM. If that's not related to the tach and other problems (I'll be fuse hunting today), could using my old PCM cause me big problems down the road?

 

[Mooseman]

The PCM you're using came with the truck so it stands to reason that the cluster should work with it. If there had been an issue, it would be the engine that would have not worked since that is the variable here. It works fine so you have to look elsewhere, likely the wiring, power or grounding. Maybe a power surge when the battery was reconnected killed the cluster. iIIRC, others had similar issues with the ignition switch and/or the 125A mega fuse being blown. Anything else that doesn't work?

Have you tried scanning for any codes? Since the CEL isn't working, there might be a code. If possible, if your mechanic has a high end scanner, or a Bluetooth interface using Car Gauge Pro (on Android), check for body codes in case there is something up with the BCM.

 

[limequat]

You used the 2007 harness, didn't you?

 

[Ryan C]

No codes with a top-notch scanner. Harness was from my 2006... Likely culprit?
Also found that the "service trans" or wrench with powertrain light glows dim, or kind-of sputters. No response from 4WD transfer controls.

 

[stickypoop]

It would also be useful to check with an OBD tool (capable of displaying live data) if signals for the tach and fuel are present and accurate. That should help rule out the cluster itself.

 

[Ryan C]

OBD tool showed tach, but doesn't show fuel. Tach was reading correctly.

 

[limequat]

Wow, I was sure the mechanic used the 2007 harness. I apologize for being presumptuous.

The OBD RPM is calculated from the crank sensor input, so it makes sense that it would be valid even with a dead tach.

One thing these functions all have in common is that they come through the PCM blue connector. It would make sense to triple check and make sure it's seated properly and the lever is latched, no contamination in the pins.

Also check and make sure the harness coming out of the blue connector isn't damaged. Tach is pin 31, fuel level sensor ground is pin 29 (hmm).

Fuel level sensor input to PCM is pin 12. There should be some voltage between 0-5v here.

 

[Ryan C]

All this is greatly appreciated. We're about to get a big snow here, and still no 4WD (yikes).
Just to clarify as I get back to my mechanic, my old 06 wiring harness should work okay, right? Of all the instrument panel lights, only the service 4WD and security lights come on at startup check.
I'll pass on all the info above for him to track down again.
Thanks!

 

[07TrailyLS]

I believe 06 and up had the newer engine so you should be just fine. I could be wrong though.

 

[Ryan C]

I got her back last weekend. All dash lights and gauges are working now, except for the CEL (which is fine for now). My mechanic re-engaged the wiring from the PCM (and maybe a couple of others), then everything went back online.

Only weird issue I've had was the transfer control going to the "red N" after having it in Auto for most of a day. I've noticed a slight growl behind the dash when using cruise at low RPMs too.

Overall I'm pretty happy, so long as there aren't any more surprises. Thanks again for all the input here!