Need Recommendations for Shop to do Engine Swap

5tjss

Original poster
Member
May 19, 2022
14
Loco, Oklahoma
2004 GMC Envoy XL 4WD 4.2L MFI DOHC Inline-6


Budget restrictions being what they are, I'm looking at purchasing a used engine from a Salvage Dealer that I am familiar with, he has 4 of them that have come out of same year model, all wrecked in rear or side collisions, no damage in front or engine compartment area. All 4 start and run and I've settled on what seems the best. Any pick at $400, and that ain't bad. I've got a warped head on mine and there just ain't no way around the problem, so what I'm looking for are recommendations for a shop that will do it right, not free, not dirt cheap, not rich man's price either hopefully LOL, but the quality of workmanship is so damn important because this is a one shot deal, been savng this $$ for a long time and can't take a bad hit here. I'm not real sure the dollar is gonna be worth much down the road, things are sketchy so....

I'm looking for a shop in the Oklahoma City general vicinity. I have a trailer and will take it farther for the right shop, but that's where it's currently located. Any and all advice on this is welcome, even if it's off topic somewhat. If you think it's worth saying, then it's worth hearing. Got a long history with this great truck and it's worth saving. Thank you in advance for taking the time. Really appreciate it guys....
 

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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
I commend you on wanting to keep your truck, especially in these economic times and that they are basically on the endangered species list as they age and die off.

Although I don't know any shops around there, I do have experience in swapping the engine and you have to be prepared for a higher than average cost and hours. As you may know, the diff-on-oil-pan and the lack of space in the engine bay will add to the bill. Although the manual says to pull the body from the frame, most do it the "normal" way out from under the hood. If they don't have a clue on how to do it for estimate purposes, here's a basic rundown of what needs to be done:
  • Usual disconnect and drain everything, remove radiator, grill, rad support crossmember
  • Remove the intake manifold (for clearance)
  • Disconnect balljoints and remove axles, support front on jack stands or whole truck on lift
  • Remove front crossmember, drop rack and pinion and hang from tie rods
  • raise engine and remove engine mounts, lower engine onto frame
  • raise transmission, remove mount and drop onto rear crossmember, support front of tranny
  • remove flywheel to torque converter bolts
  • attach cherry picker to engine
  • remove bellhousing bolts. Top ones can be removed using 3 feet worth of ratchet extensions and accessing from under the truck
  • pull engine with diff, alternator, starter and A/C compressor attached.
With the two engines side by side, transfer stuff from one to the other. Strongly recommend that you replace the axle seals on the diff before reinstalling and the valve cover gaskets since you already have the intake manifold off. Inspect the exhaust manifold for cracks. Would also be a good time to pull the oil pan and replace the pickup to oil pump seal. A new thermostat and water pump are also a good idea. Replacement of the front and rear crank seals would also be a good idea however I had bad luck with my rear seal I replaced that leaked. Have a new set of intake manifold gaskets on hand.

Before buying the engine, take the intake manifold and valve cover off to inspect the interior for lack of maintenance. I didn't do this and mine was badly coked inside which showed lack of oil changes, which eventually led to the failure of the cam phaser twice and the timing chain tensioner. Would recommend removing the timing cover and inspecting the timing components, especially the tensioner and chain guides which do wear or break from time to time.

Install is basically reverse of removal with all accessories (diff, A/C compressor, thermostat, alternator, exhaust manifold) attached and install of intake manifold after engine is in place.

This info is not all encompassing and others may add to it but it gives a good idea what to expect.
 
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5tjss

Original poster
Member
May 19, 2022
14
Loco, Oklahoma
I commend you on wanting to keep your truck, especially in these economic times and that they are basically on the endangered species list as they age and die off.

Although I don't know any shops around there, I do have experience in swapping the engine and you have to be prepared for a higher than average cost and hours. As you may know, the diff-on-oil-pan and the lack of space in the engine bay will add to the bill. Although the manual says to pull the body from the frame, most do it the "normal" way out from under the hood. If they don't have a clue on how to do it for estimate purposes, here's a basic rundown of what needs to be done:
  • Usual disconnect and drain everything, remove radiator, grill, rad support crossmember
  • Remove the intake manifold (for clearance)
  • Disconnect balljoints and remove axles, support front on jack stands or whole truck on lift
  • Remove front crossmember, drop rack and pinion and hang from tie rods
  • raise engine and remove engine mounts, lower engine onto frame
  • raise transmission, remove mount and drop onto rear crossmember, support front of tranny
  • remove flywheel to torque converter bolts
  • attach cherry picker to engine
  • remove bellhousing bolts. Top ones can be removed using 3 feet worth of ratchet extensions and accessing from under the truck
  • pull engine with diff, alternator, starter and A/C compressor attached.
With the two engines side by side, transfer stuff from one to the other. Strongly recommend that you replace the axle seals on the diff before reinstalling and the valve cover gaskets since you already have the intake manifold off. Inspect the exhaust manifold for cracks. Would also be a good time to pull the oil pan and replace the pickup to oil pump seal. A new thermostat and water pump are also a good idea. Replacement of the front and rear crank seals would also be a good idea however I had bad luck with my rear seal I replaced that leaked. Have a new set of intake manifold gaskets on hand.

Before buying the engine, take the intake manifold and valve cover off to inspect the interior for lack of maintenance. I didn't do this and mine was badly coked inside which showed lack of oil changes, which eventually led to the failure of the cam phaser twice and the timing chain tensioner. Would recommend removing the timing cover and inspecting the timing components, especially the tensioner and chain guides which do wear or break from time to time.

Install is basically reverse of removal with all accessories (diff, A/C compressor, thermostat, alternator, exhaust manifold) attached and install of intake manifold after engine is in place.

This info is not all encompassing and others may add to it but it gives a good idea what to expect.
Thank you Mooseman. I can always count on a good response that at least sets the direction to start walking. I will print this off and, if nothing else, use it to solicit estimates when:goodpost:🏆 💵 I do find some info that I can use to narrow the shop list from around 4,000 to maybe top ten
 

5tjss

Original poster
Member
May 19, 2022
14
Loco, Oklahoma
I commend you on wanting to keep your truck, especially in these economic times and that they are basically on the endangered species list as they age and die off.

Although I don't know any shops around there, I do have experience in swapping the engine and you have to be prepared for a higher than average cost and hours. As you may know, the diff-on-oil-pan and the lack of space in the engine bay will add to the bill. Although the manual says to pull the body from the frame, most do it the "normal" way out from under the hood. If they don't have a clue on how to do it for estimate purposes, here's a basic rundown of what needs to be done:
  • Usual disconnect and drain everything, remove radiator, grill, rad support crossmember
  • Remove the intake manifold (for clearance)
  • Disconnect balljoints and remove axles, support front on jack stands or whole truck on lift
  • Remove front crossmember, drop rack and pinion and hang from tie rods
  • raise engine and remove engine mounts, lower engine onto frame
  • raise transmission, remove mount and drop onto rear crossmember, support front of tranny
  • remove flywheel to torque converter bolts
  • attach cherry picker to engine
  • remove bellhousing bolts. Top ones can be removed using 3 feet worth of ratchet extensions and accessing from under the truck
  • pull engine with diff, alternator, starter and A/C compressor attached.
With the two engines side by side, transfer stuff from one to the other. Strongly recommend that you replace the axle seals on the diff before reinstalling and the valve cover gaskets since you already have the intake manifold off. Inspect the exhaust manifold for cracks. Would also be a good time to pull the oil pan and replace the pickup to oil pump seal. A new thermostat and water pump are also a good idea. Replacement of the front and rear crank seals would also be a good idea however I had bad luck with my rear seal I replaced that leaked. Have a new set of intake manifold gaskets on hand.

Before buying the engine, take the intake manifold and valve cover off to inspect the interior for lack of maintenance. I didn't do this and mine was badly coked inside which showed lack of oil changes, which eventually led to the failure of the cam phaser twice and the timing chain tensioner. Would recommend removing the timing cover and inspecting the timing components, especially the tensioner and chain guides which do wear or break from time to time.

Install is basically reverse of removal with all accessories (diff, A/C compressor, thermostat, alternator, exhaust manifold) attached and install of intake manifold after engine is in place.

This info is not all encompassing and others may add to it but it gives a good idea what to expect.
There are a number of new parts this past 2 years, but that DAMN clutch fan is gonna have to go on this time. Aftermarket fan built into the shroud is $350. Any knowledge in regards to an older make & model with an all-steel radiator that is close enough in dimensions to replace the plasti-luminum GM penny saver version. That and the clutz fan were two monumentally stupid engineering decisions, no doubt made by the marketing dept.
 

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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
If you want, you can change to the later 08-09 thermal fan clutch. GM knew it was a failure and went to the tried and true thermal. You would just need to get the PCM tuned to turn the codes for it off. Lime-swap.com by our very own @limequat can do this for $99 and also add a few other improvements to the tune.
 
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5tjss

Original poster
Member
May 19, 2022
14
Loco, Oklahoma
If you want, you can change to the later 08-09 thermal fan clutch. GM knew it was a failure and went to the tried and true thermal. You would just need to get the PCM tuned to turn the codes for it off. Lime-swap.com by our very own @limequat can do this for $99 and also add a few other improvements to the tune.
That sounds better, mainly because $99 is a lot less than $350. As always, I appreciate the information sir.
 

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