Hey guys I'm about to go on a seven hour road trip and I figured I should check my tires. My crappy digital 12v air pump was reading real low on all of them so I used it to get them all to 35 psi (these are the original Goodyear tires that come with the vehicle). The pump crapped out on the last tire which I only got to 30 psi so I went to the gas station to finish it off and decided to use my analog gauge that's higher quality. However by this time it's been midday and they have been out in the sun and driven around on plus now my car is loaded with gear. So now it says 50 psi on the fronts and 55 psi on the left rear so I matched that with the right rear. Is that okay? I am thinking the psi is so high because the tires are really hot now. But I'm worried I could be wrong and they will blow. I'm sitting at the station writing this. And the stations pump and my analog gauge read the same.
Need help with tire question quick!
- Thread starter xtitan1
- Start date
meerschm
Member
- Aug 26, 2012
- 1,079
you should not go over the max pressure marked on the tires.
even hot.
you may be a little over.
and when you get where you are going, think about updating the tires. if they really are original, carefully inspect for cracking in between the treads. at six years old, they are getting close to retirement.
even hot.
you may be a little over.
and when you get where you are going, think about updating the tires. if they really are original, carefully inspect for cracking in between the treads. at six years old, they are getting close to retirement.
meerschm said:
Stopped to get gas and check on this. The sidewalls say 43 psi but again that's cold (as in you're measuring when the car has not been driven for at least three hours) so I still don't know where I am in relation to that. Tomorrow I will check the pressure before I take it anyway and see what it actually is.
I roger on the new tires! I've been procrastinating because I've been llkicking around the idea of stepping up to different wheels. The rubber definitely doesn't look to good.
blazinlow89
Member
- Jan 25, 2012
- 2,088
Like stated you should not go over the max pressure which should be on the tires. Check them when they are cold to get an accurate reading and adjust as necessary.
Thanks fellas, this has all been really good info! I'm going to check 'em tomorrow making sure they are nice and "cold" to see what my actual PSI was/is. One thing I can say for sure after just doing a 7 hour road trip with them is that it feels like a different car. I just recently had my PCM tuned and figured it was just a subtle difference, but with those tires inflated like that the acceleration and pickup was wayyyy better. The biggest improvement of course was handling, I felt like the tires were gripping the road a lot better.
My Kenwood headunit allows me to enter in gas and mileage data every time I fill up. I use my trip function on my odometer for tracking how many miles since I last filled. Then I put in how many gallons I bought since I top off every time and that should be how many gallons I used. It also lets me enter the price per gallon I bought it at so I can see what it's costing me on average per mile. I was at 17.8 MPG this trip! Almost all highway in case that wasn't obvious. I think that's way better than I usually do, so I think the tires are helping with that as well.
My Kenwood headunit allows me to enter in gas and mileage data every time I fill up. I use my trip function on my odometer for tracking how many miles since I last filled. Then I put in how many gallons I bought since I top off every time and that should be how many gallons I used. It also lets me enter the price per gallon I bought it at so I can see what it's costing me on average per mile. I was at 17.8 MPG this trip! Almost all highway in case that wasn't obvious. I think that's way better than I usually do, so I think the tires are helping with that as well.
meerschm
Member
- Aug 26, 2012
- 1,079
I stand corrected on the tire max pressure stamped on the sidewall being a cold rating.
would be interesting to hear what the cold inflation of your tires are first thing in the morning.
I do not think the danger in and over the road trip is more from overinflation, but from underinflation. increased flexing will cause too much heat and kill the tire.
my guess is that at 55 psi hot, yours are overinflated, esp at this time of the year.
Tire Rack has some good inflation info.
" If a vehicle's tires are overinflated by 6 psi, they could be damaged more easily when running over potholes or debris in the road. Higher inflated tires cannot isolate road irregularities well, causing them to ride harsher. However, higher inflation pressures usually provide an improvement in steering response and cornering stability up to a point."
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=1
would be interesting to hear what the cold inflation of your tires are first thing in the morning.
I do not think the danger in and over the road trip is more from overinflation, but from underinflation. increased flexing will cause too much heat and kill the tire.
my guess is that at 55 psi hot, yours are overinflated, esp at this time of the year.
Tire Rack has some good inflation info.
" If a vehicle's tires are overinflated by 6 psi, they could be damaged more easily when running over potholes or debris in the road. Higher inflated tires cannot isolate road irregularities well, causing them to ride harsher. However, higher inflation pressures usually provide an improvement in steering response and cornering stability up to a point."
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=1
xtitan1 said:
What Kenwood HU do you have? I'm thinking of getting one with navigation for mine, but mostly for the backup camera feature.
Doug
ddgm said:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113DNN990H/Kenwood-Excelon-DNN990HD.html?tp=5684
I dunno, I'm not giving it my recommendation considering its price. If you ask me, I think the way of the future is radios built around smart phone integration (yes, some already exist, but the functionality is extremely limited and with clunky interfaces, IMO). Right now we are sort of in an awkward transition period.
One option I might have gone if I could do it over is an iPad mini install. You basically have two head units, the mini is what you see, and then there is a hidden headunit that let's you retain Bluetooth call receiving features, but that's a little clunky as well since I don't think you can get the call to show up on the iPad. Also, I don't think you are able to get the backup camera either.
There are rumors that Apple may release a head unit. The aftermarket stereo industry after the 90s seems to have gone into a bit of a decline but I think the advent of the smartphone will see a resurgence. OEM integration of more advanced head units has already taken off. The integration in my mom's X5 is really good, and I'm in love with the little joystick thing they use instead of a touchscreen. It's very accurate and let's me rest my arm comfortably while I'm using it, meanwhile those touchscreens very often don't register my presses or think I hit the wrong thing, especially when the car goes over a bump and you accidentally hit the screen when you didn't mean to.
I will check the tires in a second. It's midday so they will be warm from the sun but oh well I overslept and I read the important thing is that they are not driven on, in fact that is what is meant by "cold".
Well when I checked the tires yesterday cold, they were still at like 50 psi and 55 psi, as I measured them on the day of my trip. I think perhaps the issue was simply that my digital air pump is totally inaccurate. I'm not going to use that thing anymore unless it's an emergency, and I know to check the pressure afterwards with my heavy duty analog gauge, which I have checked against others to make sure it's accurate.
meerschm
Member
- Aug 26, 2012
- 1,079
one thing to be careful is that some digital pressure gauges have scales not in PSI.
the scale can read 35, or 3.5 and really be closer to 50 psi
I have become alarmed for a moment when the scale was off and what should have been 35 read closer to 24.
need those reading glasses for small scales.
(analog gauges can also be off, I have a very nice looking one that got dropped and the needle moved. reads about 8 PSI high.)
the scale can read 35, or 3.5 and really be closer to 50 psi
I have become alarmed for a moment when the scale was off and what should have been 35 read closer to 24.
need those reading glasses for small scales.
(analog gauges can also be off, I have a very nice looking one that got dropped and the needle moved. reads about 8 PSI high.)
blazinlow89
Member
- Jan 25, 2012
- 2,088
I keep a cheap 12v one in the truck, as well as a plug kit, and a digital gauge just in case. Best thing I bought was a cheap Bostich pancake compressor, picked it up return online for around $120 with a trim nail gun. It has been a huge help with being able to use a die grinder, air chisel etc. Its not so good for an impact wrench though. Its awesome for airing up tires.
I did manage to burn up one of those slime hand held 12v ones, filling up a set of bike tires.
Meerschm is right, most of the gauges have KPA, PSI, and Bar for their measurements. PSI is usually not the default also.
I did manage to burn up one of those slime hand held 12v ones, filling up a set of bike tires.
Meerschm is right, most of the gauges have KPA, PSI, and Bar for their measurements. PSI is usually not the default also.
meerschm said:one thing to be careful is that some digital pressure gauges have scales not in PSI.
the scale can read 35, or 3.5 and really be closer to 50 psi
I have become alarmed for a moment when the scale was off and what should have been 35 read closer to 24.
need those reading glasses for small scales.
(analog gauges can also be off, I have a very nice looking one that got dropped and the needle moved. reads about 8 PSI high.)
Ooops, that sounds too similar for it to not have been the culprit. I thought my tires were about 35, but when I put the gauge on they read 24. Weird. I thought I checked and it said PSI though. And yeah I took no chances after so I used multiple analog gauges and they all agreed with each other so I figure they have to be accurate and the digital one is just screwy.
Does anyone know what year tires these are? I thought they were original but my dad says they aren't. He doesn't want to replace them yet because he thinks the tread still is good, but I think they look like hell and need to be replaced.
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meerschm
Member
- Aug 26, 2012
- 1,079
date code could be on the inside of your tire. (meaning you have to look under the car, not inside the tire)
look for a number that starts with DOT last four numbers are date code. last numbers could be on other side of the tire.
see
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=11
(or you could stop by a goodyear store and ask them to show you where the date code is) they should be able to give you an alternate opinion as to age and remaining life.
look for a number that starts with DOT last four numbers are date code. last numbers could be on other side of the tire.
see
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=11
(or you could stop by a goodyear store and ask them to show you where the date code is) they should be able to give you an alternate opinion as to age and remaining life.
tblazerdude
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 321
they are not original equipment, and they are on the way low end of goodyear's tires. Goodyear isn't what it use to be, they really cheap out on their economy brands. Don't get me wrong, they still make a few decent tires, mostly in the high performance sport category, but very few of the goodyear models made today would I consider buying for an SUV/Truck. And yes, they need to be replaced. Tires don't last more than 5-6 years, regardless of miles.
Damn, guess I'm going to have to get down and dirty tomorrow in the light!
I finally got my video to work:
[video=youtube_share;6RVfRmP3adI]http://youtu.be/6RVfRmP3adI[/video]
I finally got my video to work:
[video=youtube_share;6RVfRmP3adI]http://youtu.be/6RVfRmP3adI[/video]
gmcman
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,672
xtitan1 said:
What's up with that outside rib? Is that just a bad angle/shadow? No way I would drive on those if that's how chopped up they are. Whatever tire you go with, make sure you get the alignment checked.
As far as gauges...
I have the HX60XA with the rubber surround, had it for about 16 years. When it started leaking at the tip, I sent it in and they freshened it up at no cost. Excellent gauge and service.
Accu-Gauge
Edited length of ownership, bought it after I bought my 1996 CBR.
gmcman said:
You mean that dark strip? I think it's really actually like that. I posted a video maybe you can see it better in that as it was in the daytime. Maybe because I had overinflated the tires, that part was not in contact with the road so it didn't get dust on it recently so it looks darker?
This is the pump I used:
http://www.autogeek.net/accutire-ms-5550-portable-air-compressor.html
I will keep an eye out for a sweet deal on a compressor. Getting one with a nail gun for $125 is a pretty awesome deal!
This is the analog gauge that I have that seems to be working alright for now:
http://www.autogeek.net/truck-tire-gauge.html
If it goes wonky or if I need a new gauge for any other reason I am definitely going with that Accu-gauge you recommended. I love it when you can use forums to find the best of the best for everything, it actually ends up making life so much easier and less expensive.
This may be a dumb question but what would the process be for a compressor and an analog gauge like that be? Kind of fill the tire a little, use the gauge to see how fast that's filling the tire, and then guesstimate how much more to pump it up a little past your target, then put the gauge back on, and use the little release valve to lower the pressure to target?
gmcman said:
No I roger that. I was just saying you kind of have to get a sense for how fast the compressor is filling the tire because you can't tell while it's pumping. So you would aim to overfill by a little and then unhook it, put the analog gauge on, and release some pressure until the gauge read out the correct pressure.
Playsinsnow
Member
- Nov 17, 2012
- 9,727
xtitan1 said:
there will be a 4 digit # somewhere stamped. i.e. 1599 meaning 15th week in 1999, so probably mid-late April of '99 as an example. Check all four tires, they could be different.
And what's up with that tire? Shadow? looks nasty...
Playsinsnow said:
Yeah I am going to have to check tomorrow because it apparently is on the inside of the tire.
Which part is everyone talking about that looks so bad?
Does this video work for you?
[video=youtube_share;6RVfRmP3adI]http://youtu.be/6RVfRmP3adI[/video]
Can you see whatever it is in that video, it is the same tire (rear driver side)?
Playsinsnow
Member
- Nov 17, 2012
- 9,727
The part that looks bad is the outside tire tread/shoulder. Looks worn. Are all treads the same depth on that tire? Is the shoulder of tire not "cupped"? my guess is it was out of alignment or driving under psi. They looked cracked too. I have seen trailer tires that are 20 years old with the same cracking on sidewall. Just mentioning a few things that I would personally watch for.
Playsinsnow said:
The part that looks bad is the outside tire tread/shoulder. Looks worn. Are all treads the same depth on that tire? Is the shoulder of tire not "cupped"? my guess is it was out of alignment or driving under psi. They looked cracked too. I have seen trailer tires that are 20 years old with the same cracking on sidewall. Just mentioning a few things that I would personally watch for.
Crap, yeah it's time to get some new tires. I think they were under PSI for a while. I want to get new wheels too, so now is the time anyway obviously. I just am trying to figure out what size wheels to get (20" or 22") and what type of tires to get for those. All of this crap is really complicated lol.
mikeinDE
Member
- Jan 4, 2012
- 855
xtitan1 said:
When I just read you talking about new wheels, I remembered seeing this earlier.
$500:
http://gmtnation.com/f107/trailblazer-ss-20-rims-tires-8468/#post178549
mikeinDE said:
Yeah I'm tempted but I'm not sure if I want 20s or 22s. Also, I would have to pay to get those things re-finished, which obviously would up their actual cost to me. The rear tires are good but the front ones apparently are almost done.
mikeinDE said:you could always plasti-dip 'em. And as far as the tires, you said you needed new tired anyways
Just throwing out ideas
True that.
I guess I'm just drooling over this guy's ride:
But mine probably wouldn't look as cool seeing how I don't have an SS front, custom hood, black paint job, custom grilles, or the option to get black chrome wheels.
mikeinDE
Member
- Jan 4, 2012
- 855
xtitan1 said:True that.
I guess I'm just drooling over this guy's ride:
But mine probably wouldn't look as cool seeing how I don't have an SS front, custom hood, black paint job, custom grilles, or the option to get black chrome wheels.
haha, well yea, looking at that guy's ride makes me
and 
at the same time! But doing that won't get either of us anywhere! 
Unless you use it as motivation to focus on your own ride.......