Need help with rear defrost problem

hawkeye405

Original poster
Member
Apr 9, 2015
109
Chicago
Hi guys,
The grid lines on rear hatch aren't functioning properly. When I start the truck, the 2 center grid lines warm up and stay on as long as the truck is running. When I turn on the rear defrost, the yellow light on the switch turns on as normal but the rest of the grid lines don't warm up. I replaced the switch and still no change.

Any ideas?
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,681
Tampa Bay Area, FL
The traces have tiny breaks in them, which doesn't allow the circuits (each line) to be completed. Do you have a meter and know how to test for continuity? You'll need to check each line to locate the break, they sell repair kits to bridge those gaps so your rear defrost starts working again.

Should be plenty of youtube videos if you're more of a visual learner :thumbsup:
 

hawkeye405

Original poster
Member
Apr 9, 2015
109
Chicago
I have a multi meter and know how to use it. I checked all traces visually and didn't see any breaks at all. What I don't understand is that the defroster turns on as soon as the truck starts.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,325
Ottawa, ON
Most of the breaks are usually under the black "bakelite", or whatever it's called, from the rubbing of the weatherstripping. It eventually wears through it. That's the reason the two middle ones aren't affected because they're not under it. If you put a strong flashlight on the outside, you will see what I mean.
 
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budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,044
kanata
I have a multi meter and know how to use it. I checked all traces visually and didn't see any breaks at all. What I don't understand is that the defroster turns on as soon as the truck starts.
what you have is two problems. the first is likely a stuck relay / switch for the defroster which is why its on at start up. The other problem is you have some broken runs which result is only partial defrost.
 

hawkeye405

Original poster
Member
Apr 9, 2015
109
Chicago
Thanks budwich, I'm off this Monday and Tuesday so I'll have to find the relay and check for cracks with a flash light.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,325
Ottawa, ON
You would have to redo the main line from the connectors up and down the sides on the inside of the Bakelite. It'll be ugly but it'll at least work.
 

mrwitty_1

Member
Jan 28, 2014
90
If the breaks are in the Bakelite area I used copper conductive tape with conductive adhesive and ran a strip down both sides from top to bottom close to the Bakelite.
 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,325
Ottawa, ON
If the breaks are in the Bakelite area I used copper conductive tape with conductive adhesive and ran a strip down both sides from top to bottom close to the Bakelite.

What dimensions tape did you use? It can handle the amps OK?
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Curious how that turns out. Mine was totally busted except for those two lines as well, but even the lines themselves had thin/worn spots from something. With so many breaks the only option I had was to replace the glass for $500, or I just lived with it for 5 years.
 

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