Need help !! 2005 trailblazer no start!!

Lclark27

Member
I have a 05 Chevy trailblazer ext v6 and I'm having a hard time finding out what's wrong with it. It all started when I went to town and all the sudden the oil pressure light came on. The oil pressure was all the way up. As I was slowing down to pull over it just suddenly died. And its hasn't started since then. I have got a new battery and alternator cuz they went out. And I had the starter checked and ot was good. When you turn the key to start it goes like a quarter turn and then stops like something is not letting it move. And it does it every time u turn the key. I dont have the funds to have it towed again to a shop just to have it looked at. And also I have hooked up a scanner and it isn't reading any codes at all. All the lights and everything like that's works when u turn the key. It must dont want to start. Can someone plz help me figure this out. It's my baby I've only had it for like a yr and half..
 

gmcman

Well-Known Member
Welcome....

Well, just to clarify, the 4.2 is an inline 6, not a V6.

Check your oil, pull the dipstick, wipe clean, then check.

Could be your battery or alternator is bad...hopefully, but check the oil and report back.

Did you have any check engine lights on prior to it acting up?

Did it sputter when sitting at a red light with your foot on the brake?
 
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Lclark27

Member
No sputter and the check engine light popped on for few seconds while the oil pressure alarm was going off then it just died. It has a good battery and alternator had both checked and the oil looks fine

The only thing it did before all this happened was... you be driving and when you was going slower it would act like it didn't have to much power and stall and kind of act like it would just die but after u hit about 50mph on it would drive fine. After that happened I drove it one time then the oil thing happened and died

Oh and I forgot to tell when u turn the key it makes a click click sound too and turn a quarter way
 

southsidesmoka

Silver Supporter
I have a 05 Chevy trailblazer ext v6 and I'm having a hard time finding out what's wrong with it. It all started when I went to town and all the sudden the oil pressure light came on. The oil pressure was all the way up. As I was slowing down to pull over it just suddenly died. And its hasn't started since then. I have got a new battery and alternator cuz they went out. And I had the starter checked and ot was good. When you turn the key to start it goes like a quarter turn and then stops like something is not letting it move. And it does it every time u turn the key. I dont have the funds to have it towed again to a shop just to have it looked at. And also I have hooked up a scanner and it isn't reading any codes at all. All the lights and everything like that's works when u turn the key. It must dont want to start. Can someone plz help me figure this out. It's my baby I've only had it for like a yr and half..
I'm no mechanic or GM specialist...just a fellow TrailBlazer owner and, abashedly, sufferer of the same problem. My version of this problem came from the following:
  • undiagnosed bad head gaskets (noticeable because of oil splatter around manifold and block)
  • oil leaking from the bad seal when the engine would run due to the bad head gaskets (never a drop of oil in the driveway)
  • running for a long period of time with practically no oil resulted in...
ENGINE DEATH ⚰

As for my TB, she needs a new engine. I had mine for approximately six months before the engine seized up and now seems to want to start but only gets about a quarter crank in before stopping. I've killed two batteries and replaced various parts related to DTC P0014...all to no avail. I hope you fair better than I, brother. Best of wishes in your quest for answers.

- southsidesmoka
 
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southsidesmoka

Silver Supporter
Get a socket and breaker bar and try turning the engine manually clockwise to see if it is obstructed.
Now...to find that damned breaker-bar and a suitable socket. Seriously, I haven't tried this and am wondering to what extent my engine is damaged. Thank you, @16vcabman , for the advice.

- southsidesmoka
 
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Lclark27

Member
I had the starter tested and its was good so I know it ain't that or battery or alternator. Has to be something other then those
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Well then a mechanical check of the engine is in order. If you can't turn it with a socket and ratchet/breaker bar, it may have mechanical issues. And no, it doesn't have to be in neutral. Park, is fine.
 

budwich

Well-Known Member
I think you should also remove all the spark plugs which will then make the "turn the engine by hand" test a lot easier... :smile:
 

southsidesmoka

Silver Supporter
Well then a mechanical check of the engine is in order. If you can't turn it with a socket and ratchet/breaker bar, it may have mechanical issues. And no, it doesn't have to be in neutral. Park, is fine.
Howdy, @Mooseman ...how have you been, sir? My TB has been idle for many-a-month; is that crankshaft still going to turn with a little elbow grease? Or, am I in for a challenge?

- southsidesmoka
 

gmcman

Well-Known Member
I would check your battery cables, ground cable, and also the battery.

When you say it sputtered, oil light came on, then shut off....it sounds like you may have lost the connection from your battery.

The alternator powers the vehicle when the engine is running, but unlike most cars of yesteryears....you cannot disconnect the battery and have the engine continue to run.

The oil light likely came on from a very low idle...as it was beginning to stall.....hopefully.

If that were mine, I would check all the cables, starting with the battery. My hunch is the battery cable(s) and would explain the stall and the click, click when trying to start it.
 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Howdy, @Mooseman ...how have you been, sir? My TB has been idle for many-a-month; is that crankshaft still going to turn with a little elbow grease? Or, am I in for a challenge?

- southsidesmoka
Hmmm. My long distance X-ray is currently out of order so I cannot make such a prediction :smile:
 

Maverick6587

Well-Known Member
ENGINE DEATH ⚰

As for my TB, she needs a new engine. I had mine for approximately six months before the engine seized up and now seems to want to start but only gets about a quarter crank in before stopping. I've killed two batteries and replaced various parts related to DTC P0014...all to no avail. I hope you fair better than I, brother. Best of wishes in your quest for answers.

- southsidesmoka
What all did you replace for parts?
Things I would replace/try:
Crankshaft sensor
Camshaft sensor
VVT Solenoid
If you have already replaced all of those parts. I would still remove all of parts to clean them.

If no change noticed from those parts changed/cleaned. Drain half or all of your engine oil and put (the amount you took out) transmission fluid into the engine. Transmission fluid is a cleaner, run that until the engine reaches operating temp and then drain and replace the oil and oil filter.

If that worked, then I would do another oil change within a week or two, just to make sure all of that transmission fluid is out of the engine.
 

gmcman

Well-Known Member
I know it ain't that or battery or alternator. Has to be something other then those
I know you mentioned this, but don't dismiss it..mainly the cables. You will not show any low voltage or a battery light with the alternator working...but with a loose battery cable at the battery or a loose ground will shut the motor down quickly and mimic your aymptoms.

Being it's an automatic transmission, you wont feel the low idle as you're rolling along until it's almost shut down.

Again, I hope that's the case and not something major.
 

gmcman

Well-Known Member
One more thing....does it act up when you press the brakes? One distant possibility would be a ruptured brake booster diaphragm but only tossing this out as it would be a huge vacuum leak. Not likely but wanted to add that to the list. My hunch is on the positive side post mount of the cable....fingers crossed anyway. Just because the cable is tight, doesnt mean the small fingers aren't contacting the lead (PB) of the battery terminal.
 

southsidesmoka

Silver Supporter
Found my trusty breaker bar, waited for daylight and damn near broke my arms. That crankshaft would NOT budge! As Dr. McCoy would say to Captain Kirk - "she's dead, Jim." :Banghead::duh:

- southsidesmoka
 

Maverick6587

Well-Known Member
Found my trusty breaker bar, waited for daylight and damn near broke my arms. That crankshaft would NOT budge! As Dr. McCoy would say to Captain Kirk - "she's dead, Jim." :Banghead::duh:

- southsidesmoka
Just because I know I do this every once in awhile... Did you put it in neutral and remove the belt?
 

southsidesmoka

Silver Supporter
Just because I know I do this every once in awhile... Did you put it in neutral and remove the belt?
Hooked up my booster box...that quarter crank I spoke of is completely gone. Now, a turn of the ignition key yields a total loss of electrical power to all systems. With the booster box hooked up and turned on, I am able to disengage the transmission lock and shift into neutral with no difference in results. I didn't remove the engine belt because my breaker bar was visually bending during the process of throwing EVERYTHING I had into "breaking it if it wasn't already broken." That serpentine belt would have slipped or had some give - that crankshaft is frozen solid in space and time. 😭

- southsidesmoka
 

Maverick6587

Well-Known Member
Hooked up my booster box...that quarter crank I spoke of is completely gone. Now, a turn of the ignition key yields a total loss of electrical power to all systems. With the booster box hooked up and turned on, I am able to disengage the transmission lock and shift into neutral with no difference in results. I didn't remove the engine belt because my breaker bar was visually bending during the process of throwing EVERYTHING I had into "breaking it if it wasn't already broken." That serpentine belt would have slipped or had some give - that crankshaft is frozen solid in space and time. 😭

- southsidesmoka
It doesn't sound like it would help much from your description but, maybe removing the ignition coils "might" give some play. Just a thought though.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Sounds like she's locked up good. Have you tried turning it backwards just a bit? I know it's a big no-no but at this point, won't make a difference.
 

gmcman

Well-Known Member
That's a bummer for sure. FYI, doesn't need to be in neutral, the torque converter will rotate freely. I understand the remote possibility of a locked converter but highly unlikely with no trans pressure.
 

budwich

Well-Known Member
was that with your plugs removed? As suggested by others, check your wiring. Start doing some electrical measurements / testing.... some of which might require extra hands... ie. some one turning the key / start attempt while someone is measuring conditions at your starter.

Earlier you indicated that the starter "tested good"... how was that test done?
 
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Lclark27

Member
One more thing....does it act up when you press the brakes? One distant possibility would be a ruptured brake booster diaphragm but only tossing this out as it would be a huge vacuum leak. Not likely but wanted to add that to the list. My hunch is on the positive side post mount of the cable....fingers crossed anyway. Just because the cable is tight, doesnt mean the small fingers aren't contacting the lead (PB) of the battery terminal.
I will get on that battery cables and check that out. I dis turn the turn so I know it's not dead
was that with your plugs removed? As suggested by others, check your wiring. Start doing some electrical measurements / testing.... some of which might require extra hands... ie. some one turning the key / start attempt while someone is measuring conditions at your starter.
Ok will do and no i turned it with them in
 

Maverick6587

Well-Known Member
If you can turn it by hand with the spark plugs in, I'm leaning toward the starter being bad, like @Mooseman suggested.

Where/how did you have the starter tested? How many revolutions were you able to spin the engine and did you turn it clockwise or counterclockwise?
 

Maverick6587

Well-Known Member
Possible but, he makes it sounds like the engine is getting seized up by something. That's why I agreed on the starter being the issue. Video or audio of it trying to start would be a big help here.

Could have him test the pink, red, and yellow wires (could be wrong on colors). I think yellow would be fine though, I believe that's the computer control signal. At least see if there's a loss in voltage while cranking.
 
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Lclark27

Member
Possible but, he makes it sounds like the engine is getting seized up by something. That's why I agreed on the starter being the issue. Video or audio of it trying to start would be a big help here.

Could have him test the pink, red, and yellow wires (could be wrong on colors). I think yellow would be fine though, I believe that's the computer control signal. At least see if there's a loss in voltage while cranking.
I had the starter tested at o Reilly's and they said it was good. I have the starter off right now so I will have to put it back on before I can give u guys audio. I'll try to get it this Friday evening or this weekend. I got to work so.e overtime starting tomorrow so wont have time to pit it back on til then
 

budwich

Well-Known Member
OK... but that was a "bench test" and didn't really test the rest of your system. You might want to look at the starter relay as this is a potentially weakness in the system. thus, if you do the suggested in vehicle tests of the key in start and measuring conditions at the starter wiring (not even connected to the starter itself, heck the starter doesn't even need to be installed) to verify... go from there.
 

JimInRadfordVA

Well-Known Member
Based on the fact that the crank could not be turned with a breaker bar, and the description of the original failure, I've voting for a seized engine.
 

TequilaWarrior

Well-Known Member
Based on the fact that the crank could not be turned with a breaker bar, and the description of the original failure, I've voting for a seized engine.
I turned it by hand so it cant be seized
We have two different users actively asking for help in this thread.

@Lclark27 is the OP - his is turning.

@southsidesmoka chimed in that his is locked up. Not trying to be a mod, but: it might be a better idea for @southsidemsoka to start a thread specifically for their instance of lockup to better accommodate troubleshooting. We've already got commenters crossing conversations.
 

southsidesmoka

Silver Supporter
Based on the fact that the crank could not be turned with a breaker bar, and the description of the original failure, I've voting for a seized engine.
Agreed. I'm pricing engines and installation as we speak... 💰


We have two different users actively asking for help in this thread.

@Lclark27 is the OP - his is turning.

@southsidesmoka chimed in that his is locked up. Not trying to be a mod, but: it might be a better idea for @southsidemsoka to start a thread specifically for their instance of lockup to better accommodate troubleshooting. We've already got commenters crossing conversations.
Wasn't "chiming in", friend. I was suggesting that the engine was seized due to conditions similar to mine @Lclark27 described at the beginning of the thread. On with the @Lclark27 show! :celebrate:

- southsidesmoka
 
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