I think we had an issue of "Semantics" (Out of Round vs. Run Out) in that I was interpreting your Dial Indications to be on the nose of the Crankshaft checking for fore and aft motion. Unless you have applied an Angle Gauge (Small Carpenter's Square) against the uprights deep inside the upper block that form the Seven (7) Bearing Supports and found that they are not at a 90 Degree Angle to the Mating surface engine where the Crankcase meets the Smooth Bottom Edges of the Engine Block... you should not assume that anything is disastrously wrong just yet.
If you commit to keeping this engine... then you will have to tear it down a lot more so you can pull the Crankshaft out of the Block and examine it for any actual Bends or Out Of Round Journals. Using my video will to show you how to invert the Crankshaft Cradle on a level surface and use the same Main Caps and Bearings from the Original 1-4-7 positions as supports and then place your Dial Indicator on "0" Zero in the center of each Journal surface and slowly turn the Crankshaft by hand and watch for any eccentric movements.
THAT technique worked very well for me... and you could do this on your Bench after putting just a few drops of Assembly Lube on the Bearing surfaces and take your time looking at all three positions. In the Old Days... a Good Machinist could Heat and Straighten out the Crankshaft with correctly placed Hits from a Heavy Brass Hammer.
If you find nothing wrong in either examination... then there is probably nothing glaringly wrong. I would also suggest using a very bright Flashlight and looking very closely inside of the Engine Block for any cracks or separations where the Steel Sleeves meet up with the lower portion of the Block...and seek to find any Bent or Cracked support Buttresses.
Please understand that your Crankshaft... all Crankshafts for that matter... do more than merely Rotate Clockwise inside of the engine at the behest of the forces of Combustion Driven Pistons. Due to the forces of Torque and Angular Momentum created AS the Engine is Running ... the Crankshaft HUNTS very dynamically --> Forwards and <--- Backwards over and over again.
The only thing that keeps this action from ruining the engine by NOT keeping the Con-Rods as close to a Right Angle during their up and down actions upon the Pistons and having the Counter-Weights eventually getting jammed against the Inner Upper Block Engine Bearing Supports ...are those Two Side-Plates of the Thrust Bearing that prevent this damage from happening and destroying the engine.
Eric the Car Guy's Video is illustrative of this phenomena and while he is describing the forces that get applied against the outer Flywheel of a Clutch Pressure Plate... those same exact forces are applied by the Tri-Mounted Bolt-Up points on the Flex-Plate of a 4L60E Transmission by the Torque Converter as it HUNTS ---> Forwards and <--- Backwards. This is a very repetitive and very VIOLENT event that occurs every time the Engine RPM rises and Falls and is especially stressful as the Crankshaft moves from Nose to Tail innumerable times under extreme loads... during the life of the Engine.
This next Video will demonstrate just exactly how
Dynamic the Motions and Forces entering the Torque Converter really are...and how much movement that Crankshaft and Ballooning, Sliding TC have when moving In and Out:
When subjected to enough hard contact... those Thrust Bearing Flanges (Plates located at Right Angles to the Crankshaft) will burn up and wear down to the point where that Nose to Tail Motion of the Crankshaft becomes excessive. I hope this is an adequate explanation.
One last suggestion is for you to remove the Rear Cover Seal Plate and The Front Timing Cover and examine them both on a Flat Surface to see if they were warped, bent or damaged during the impact. Then try to rotate the Crankshaft again and see if that "Clicking" noise has subsided. Replacing the Front Cover also eliminates any damage and Crankshaft rotational interference that may have occurred inside of the Gerotor Oil Pump.
That Pump is attached to the Cover on the inside and may have been ruined during the accident if either the Gerotor Oil Pump Gears or the mate up it has with the Lower Cog-Sprocket on the Nose of the Crankshaft got FUBARed. If this turns out to be true.... those two components can easily be replaced if you find no actual cracks or damage to the block or the Crankshaft Nose is NOT dinged up or bent Once they are taken off of the engine.... you can once again check for any sketchy resistance when rotating the Crankshaft clockwise and feeling for any change in the problem.