My 05 Trailblazer Issue Saga!

[MrGiggles]

Finally got a new re machined cylinder head on my 4.2L L6 with the help of my friend I don't think I ever want to do that again! What crazy person designed this engine???? OK, done gripping to the problems.

05 trailblazer 4.2L EXt
New - MAP sensor. Oil Pump, Belt, Plugs, Coils, Fuel Injectors, Fuel Pump, Fuel Pump pressure Sensor, Water Pump, Timing Chain, Re-machined - Cylinder head with new values, springs and rocker arms, Seals, head gaskets, exhaust manifold gasket, intake manifold gaskets.all seals plus etc. Re-did the complete motor but the pistons and block they were OK! Had 4 bad values millage 192K on motor.

- Was getting a P2135 and P0651 Due to my low budget and my cancer treatment I went to the junk yard got a used throttle body form 05 trailblazer with 86K that was a rollover wreck for $22.

Now the vehicle runs better but if I press the pedal down to give it gas for a fast acceleration from 20 mph to 50 mph if hesitates 3 - 4 times or more but will get up to speed. Never took it on the highway yet so 50 mph is the max speed I tested.

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Should I change the gas pedal sensor also?
The electric fan clutch must be working OK never over heated in 96 Degree F outside temperature driving for 30 minutes.

I know the gas pedal, throttle body, and electric fan clutch and maybe the gas tank pressure sensor all run on the the 5 volt agree and disagree reference.

My cheesy reader does not live read voltage ref.

Also disconnected the tail pipe in front of the catalytic converter still no change just more noise

Currently throwing no error codes at all and engine light stays off?

Any suggestion to try next? Or test?


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UPDATE:
I went out to the trailblazer to get a my manual and tried to start it.

Would not start and throw a P2136 P651 P2135 codes. Cleared the codes.


Just wondering I decided to unplug the electric fan clutch.

The trailblazer started and throw the P0651 code which I know it would.

This is the voltage B ref per my cheap old reader.

Could this be caused be the fan clutch and still cool the vehicle in 97 F heat?
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Thank you in advance!

 

[TJBaker57]

Is your cheesy reader a bluetooth dongle by any chance?

 

[Mooseman]

There's obviously something going on with the 5v reference. Start with the basics. Check all the fuses and wiring. Pull the PCM, throttle pedal sensor connectors to ensure they are clean, no bent pins or broken wires and inserted properly. Check the fan's wires for any breaks and shorts which are common.

Having the 5v reading from the OBD would just tell you that the PCM is putting out 5v. Won't tell you that it's reaching the components. Grab the manuals (link in my signature), check the schematics and grab a digital multimeter to check the voltages at the connectors, including the fan's. If one or none are getting 5v, check that the PCM is putting out 5v at its connector. Then you would need to check continuity from the connector heading to the components.

The fan can still pull enough air with residual drag spinning it to just keep it cool enough, especially if the A/C is not on. Most people don't even notice that it's not working until the engine is really stressed, it's really hot out in traffic or the A/C is not working well.

 

[MrGiggles]

Nope TJBaker57 the reader is a 5 year old cord reader my uncle gave me that he purchased for $30

 

[MrGiggles]

There's obviously something going on with the 5v reference. Start with the basics. Check all the fuses and wiring. Pull the PCM, throttle pedal sensor connectors to ensure they are clean, no bent pins or broken wires and inserted properly. Check the fan's wires for any breaks and shorts which are common.

Having the 5v reading from the OBD would just tell you that the PCM is putting out 5v. Won't tell you that it's reaching the components. Grab the manuals (link in my signature), check the schematics and grab a digital multimeter to check the voltages at the connectors, including the fan's. If one or none are getting 5v, check that the PCM is putting out 5v at its connector. Then you would need to check continuity from the connector heading to the components.

The fan can still pull enough air with residual drag spinning it to just keep it cool enough, especially if the A/C is not on. Most people don't even notice that it's not working until the engine is really stressed, it's really hot out in traffic or the A/C is not working well.

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I will check everything you said to. Also I had a weird whining sound figured out it's the water pump so I got the parts store order me a new fan clutch and got water pump a water pump they had in stock not a refurbished on new acdelco parts.

Figured change them both at the same time.

Here is an odd question: The old water pump makes the whining sound when i turn pulley the belt direction but not the other direction and it's not loose or leaking is the normal for water pumps going bad?

Thank you

 

[Mooseman]

It shouldn't make noise in either direction IMHO. Not a bad idea to change it.

 

[MrGiggles]

I changes the fan clutch and water pump seems to have fixed all my issues. Drove it 40 miles no issues.

My weird rattle started up the motor figured out it was the front grill that plastic head light holder is broke put in a screw and fixed that.

And the water pump was going bad causing the whining sound and found metal flakes coming out of the back of the water pump so it was almost died.

Praying that's the last issues with my money pit but still cheaper than a having a car payment.


Thank you for everyone's feedback and help.