Multi issue fixing

Stunt_Dude

Original poster
Member
Mar 13, 2018
13
Ontario
OK so now after the fan blower works, I'll get down to the big issues I'm facing.

So my truck idles high at ignition and fan runs fast and I can hear the common issue of the clutch clicking. So I clean my throttle body every 6 months or so sometimes if I'm bored it's every 3... so I'm thinking my fan and high idle have to do with the clutch so I'm thinking I'll be replacing that any ideas on that one? Also I'm going to the Mechanic very soon to have the codes ran, if I ever have the spare cash I'd buy a code reader/diagnostic tool but never do anyways as i have the ses on - its on because I have a bad vvt solinoid I am replacing very soon. So onto more I believe I have a bad thermostat or coolant temp gauge termo goes bad 10x more... temp wavers a bit so I'm replacing one or both since the alternator is going to be pulled but also want to know which one is bad so hopefully a code hits. So down to exaust I've been told about a year go my cat might be bad but no way of know without more test... so it might me my upstream oxygen sensor can't tell I think the code came back a bad sensor but I need a new read to get the codes down right. Any info narrowing down the issues before I take it to get the codes would be awesome! Just trying to get my bearings as the codes far to often are generic with no precise cause. Thank you.

Also need to replace the muffler is has a cheap repair sealing a hole... or 2
 
Last edited:

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
Code readers can be had for very cheap. Traditional ones for less than $20 on Amazon. Or you can get a Bluetooth type that connects to your phone and use Torque. Those are around $20 + $5 for Torque on Android.

If the fan doesn't disengage within a few minutes, yeah, it's seizing up, which will kill your MPG.
 

Realism

Member
Nov 25, 2015
179
Idaho
Stunt_Dude, what did you replace to get the fan blower to work?
about two years back I had my module/resistor go out on me and I ended up replacing it with a Dorman (bad choice I know, but was quick and summer heat) Their instructions were incorrect so I wired it backwards, blew the fuse, found out the correct wiring and replaced the fuse. Ever since that day I have had a high idle at ignition that can take a minute or two to drop back down to normal, worse on a cold start.
I have two theories, but not had the where withal to test either of them. First: somehow the wiring is bad or something happened and/or just happened on its own, the temp sensor for the coolant/radiator isnt reading properly and is saying its colder than what it actually is, which could be why the high idle at start up happens, since the PCM is seeing "Hey buddy, did we take that left to Siberia?" hence increased fuel for higher idle till the confused blighter decides it is the "correct" temp.
Second: Blower Motor is drawing more amps than what it should be causing issues.

Third thought: Hire exterminator of gremlins.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
Doubt you'll get a answer. He never came back after that post.
 

Realism

Member
Nov 25, 2015
179
Idaho
True, but threw a dime on the table for the next one who is trying to trace down the issue with similar problems. I'm losing my drive to clean up after the gremlins little problems
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
Yep, can't hurt.
 

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