Modding TB tail light boards for non-SRCK LEDs

MAY03LT

Original poster
Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,412
Delmarva
nonsrck.jpg


Someone axed me if it would be possible to wire up a pair of dual park boards and make it so that non-SRCK LEDs could be used. If the sockets were rewired like the board on the right, would conventional (non-SRCK) 3157 LEDs work? I don't see why they wouldn't but to be sure I figured I'd ask the pros.
 

kardain

Member
Dec 16, 2011
557
Very close... you would add the 2 pins for park power/ground to the turn socket (park+ opposite of turn+.... where the top left ground is currently on the middle socket on the right diagram) and leave the two existing pins alone... then rewire the top socket similar to the middle one, substituting brake positive for turn positive.

on edit... wait a tick, on the non-modified, the turn positive is on the same side as brake/park... are you demonstrating this from the side where the bulbs plug in, or from the back side of the sockets? just making sure my answer is correct based on which side you are demonstrating.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Looking at this makes me finally understand why they wired the boards in SRCK mode. Simplifies the wiring so much.

Although personally I think individual sockets would have been better than a stupid board.

Anyway, you're on the right track for the conversion. There should be enough room for the wiring to go between the sockets.
 

kardain

Member
Dec 16, 2011
557
Sparky said:
Although personally I think individual sockets would have been better than a stupid board.

For sure. I lost track of the amount of cuss words I threw out when rewiring my boards. was >< (that) close to busting out the dremel and modding the tail housings to accept standard sockets.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Hmm maybe I should start building conversion boards :undecided:
 

MAY03LT

Original poster
Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,412
Delmarva
kardain said:
on edit... wait a tick, on the non-modified, the turn positive is on the same side as brake/park... are you demonstrating this from the side where the bulbs plug in, or from the back side of the sockets? just making sure my answer is correct based on which side you are demonstrating.

It is shown as looking at the board from the front with the cover removed, like this (don't mind the text):

3pinremoval.jpg


kardain said:
was >< (that) close to busting out the dremel

That's close!:cool:

Sparky said:
Hmm maybe I should start building conversion boards :undecided:

Go for it!:yes:
 

SBUBandit

Member
Dec 5, 2011
597
Just an idea, but would it be plausible to just replace the circuit board with an aluminum plate with holes drilled where the bulbs go (with little notches cut out so the bulbs would twist in) and just wire individual 3157 sockets in for each bulb? That would do away with the board all together and we could wire them up however we please.

This would also eliminate the need for the SRCK bulbs
 

kardain

Member
Dec 16, 2011
557
MAY03LT said:
It is shown as looking at the board from the front with the cover removed, like this (don't mind the text):

Kk. Then the first part of my post above will accomplish the end result.
 

groundshock

Member
Dec 4, 2011
248
SBUBandit said:
Just an idea, but would it be plausible to just replace the circuit board with an aluminum plate with holes drilled where the bulbs go (with little notches cut out so the bulbs would twist in) and just wire individual 3157 sockets in for each bulb? That would do away with the board all together and we could wire them up however we please.

This would also eliminate the need for the SRCK bulbs

Actually, I had exactly this idea for another stainless product
 

SBUBandit

Member
Dec 5, 2011
597
groundshock said:
Actually, I had exactly this idea for another stainless product

I thought you might be able to make something. I was just seeing if anyone had any real reasons it couldn't be done.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
It could be, but you'd have to be sure to get the thickness right that 1) the sockets can twist in and 2) the bulbs are still located in the right spot in the housings for the reflectors to work properly.

It would probably come down to how much a modded board set costs vs the cost of sockets and the plate (and maybe an adapter cable made available so the average guy wouldn't have to mod the wiring in the truck, just plug in and go).

I'm probably going to be doing a set of modded boards for someone in the near future, so once we see how that goes I may start providing a "modding service" for those who want modded boards, along with a few options available like quad running lights, maybe dual brake/dual turn, etc...
 

MAY03LT

Original poster
Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,412
Delmarva
I don't see why it wouldn't work. Plus, the connector that plugs into the factory tail light connector is available, so it is possible to make a mini harness that just connects all the sockets to that. Then plug, and play!:cool:
 

SBUBandit

Member
Dec 5, 2011
597
So I guess to give that a try we would need to get groundshock the thickness it would need to be and see if he can work with that. From there it would be a matter of measuring to get the bulbs where they need to be. The wiring to me seems like it would be the easy part, I don't mind playing with wiring. What i am going for is quad running lights and dual brake/turn. If I can get the blanks to plug some sockets in, I'd find it alot easier for me to wire than to play with the circuit boards.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
OK here's the idea I have.

I'm thinking of purchasing a couple boards and playing with them to make them support standard LED bulbs, and also see what's involved in making them available with quad brake/turn built in. Then I'll see what I can make them for, and see how much interest there is for me to offer them for sale to members as a regular product. I'm thinking I could offer them with the following configurations, all in non-SRCK mode, in order of cost:

1) stock layout
2) quad brake and turn
3) quad running lights
4) quad running, brake, and turn

Maybe before I dig into it too much I should find out what members are willing to pay for such items :confused: I don't want to spend all sorts of money and time to do this, then have the resulting cost higher than most are willing to pay. That would be pointless. If I know what people are willing to pay I can then look at the parts involved and see where that puts me, then make a few sets and see if the time invested is worth it. I have a regular job, so these would be done on the side, and as such I wouldn't expect to make too much on each set, but I also don't want to end up spending gobs of my free time making boards and having nothing at all to show for it.
 

groundshock

Member
Dec 4, 2011
248
SBUBandit said:
So I guess to give that a try we would need to get groundshock the thickness it would need to be and see if he can work with that. From there it would be a matter of measuring to get the bulbs where they need to be. The wiring to me seems like it would be the easy part, I don't mind playing with wiring. What i am going for is quad running lights and dual brake/turn. If I can get the blanks to plug some sockets in, I'd find it alot easier for me to wire than to play with the circuit boards.

I'll see if I can come up with some 3156 and 3157 sockets to try it. Thickness shouldn't be an issue as I think 11ga. SS would be fine.

What I really need is a donor board.

MAY03LT said:
I don't see why it wouldn't work. Plus, the connector that plugs into the factory tail light connector is available, so it is possible to make a mini harness that just connects all the sockets to that. Then plug, and play!:cool:

Got a part number or a source on this?
 

MAY03LT

Original poster
Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,412
Delmarva
groundshock said:
Got a part number or a source on this?

Sure do.

PART NUMBER: 15326827
DESCRIPTION: 5 Way Black GT 150 Sealed Male Connector

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Delphi-Connection-Systems/13519053

This connector is blank. The pins, locking tab, and rubber thing have to be bought separately. Also worth mentioning, I have not personally tried this yet, so until I do I can only say that this is based off what other folks have reported.
 

MAY03LT

Original poster
Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,412
Delmarva
groundshock said:
Damn. I was hoping that there would at least be a complete pigtail available.

You and me both! But, the way I see it, at least we have something to work with. I'll have some connectors (and hardware) here in a few days, I'll update this thread when I get them assembled.
 

MAY03LT

Original poster
Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,412
Delmarva
da0c926c.jpg


Another member set me a pair of Dormans for the first(?) dual park/non-SRCK boards. I'm waiting for some non-SRCK LEDs to get here and then I can get busy on them.

As far as my quad turns/brakes I've been too busy lately to mess with them so no updates there, for now.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
I haven't done anything as there seemed to be an underwhelming amount of interest. I have so much going on at work right now that I need to focus on, so lack of interest = this got shoved to the side.
 

oh05ext

Member
Dec 7, 2011
166
hey sparky id be willing to pay you to make a quad brake turn setup for our trailblazer on your free time.om if your interested.
 

DFWWIZ

Member
Dec 5, 2011
516
oh05ext said:
hey sparky id be willing to pay you to make a quad brake turn setup for our trailblazer on your free time.om if your interested.

And also with the people who are buying the Cree led bulbs a resurgance of this mod is needed now more than ever. LMK if I can help ya out with bulbs or anything else. :thumbsup:
Kev

Edit: I just ordered a pair of circuit boards from Autoparts Warehouse for $52
 

MAY03LT

Original poster
Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,412
Delmarva
DFWWIZ said:
And also with the people who are buying the Cree led bulbs a resurgance of this mod is needed now more than ever. LMK if I can help ya out with bulbs or anything else. :thumbsup:
Kev

Edit: I just ordered a pair of circuit boards from Autoparts Warehouse for $52

Did you get the Dorman boards? The first thing that I noticed when I cracked that one open last night was that removing the pins (for pin reorientation) is 1000 times easier then the OEMs. I'm excited to see how these turn out for sure!
 

Matt

Member
Dec 2, 2011
4,019
DFWWIZ said:
And also with the people who are buying the Cree led bulbs a resurgance of this mod is needed now more than ever. LMK if I can help ya out with bulbs or anything else. :thumbsup:
Kev

Edit: I just ordered a pair of circuit boards from Autoparts Warehouse for $52

Kev,

For future reference, Summit Racing has the Dorman boards for $12.95 each.
 

DFWWIZ

Member
Dec 5, 2011
516
Matt said:
Kev,

For future reference, Summit Racing has the Dorman boards for $12.95 each.

Thanks Matt. This is why this site is gaining popularity-more helpful people on it that critiques like the other sites.
 

SBUBandit

Member
Dec 5, 2011
597
MAY03LT said:
da0c926c.jpg


Another member set me a pair of Dormans for the first(?) dual park/non-SRCK boards. I'm waiting for some non-SRCK LEDs to get here and then I can get busy on them.

As far as my quad turns/brakes I've been too busy lately to mess with them so no updates there, for now.

The Dormans definitely seem like they would be alot easier to play around with, at least for me. What would you use for making the extra contacts needed for the center sockets, as I assume the Dormans still only have the 2 contacts correct?


By the way, here's the link for the Dormans on Summit's site for anyone interested
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RNB-923-009/
 

DFWWIZ

Member
Dec 5, 2011
516
Ok after doing a little research on these circuit boards, I now have an even better connection for these and have ordered 10 sets. Also found out that I can get them for the Envoys as well. Plan is to modify these to accept my Cree bulbs and incorporate the resistor in them so they will be plug and play. Stay tuned...:yes:
 

djthumper

Administrator
Nov 20, 2011
14,950
North Las Vegas
DFWWIZ said:
Ok after doing a little research on these circuit boards, I now have an even better connection for these and have ordered 10 sets. Also found out that I can get them for the Envoys as well. Plan is to modify these to accept my Cree bulbs and incorporate the resistor in them so they will be plug and play. Stay tuned...:yes:
Now that would be sweet to have the resistors built in to boot!
 

DFWWIZ

Member
Dec 5, 2011
516
Also looking at the flasher which is up under the dash, to see if it can be modified to up the resistance or changed out with another that has correct values. I know they make smaller ones that do this, just not sure about our style yet.
 

DFWWIZ

Member
Dec 5, 2011
516
djthumper said:
Now that would be sweet to have the resistors built in to boot!

Yea the easy way would be to just mount the resistor piggyback to the board with wires going in to the correct runners. But I'm a cosmetic kind of guy and like to explore as many options available to give it the clean look. :undecided:
 

MAY03LT

Original poster
Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,412
Delmarva
SBUBandit said:
The Dormans definitely seem like they would be alot easier to play around with, at least for me. What would you use for making the extra contacts needed for the center sockets, as I assume the Dormans still only have the 2 contacts correct?

I'm gonna do what I did on my dual park boards (they are modded OEMs, not dormans) and use a donor board for the extra pin thingys. It looks like one donor can be parted out to make several modded.

DFWWIZ said:
Also looking at the flasher which is up under the dash, to see if it can be modified to up the resistance or changed out with another that has correct values. I know they make smaller ones that do this, just not sure about our style yet.

I'm not in the loop with all the LED stuff that these guys do but I remember reading that they use a LM487 flasher.
 

DFWWIZ

Member
Dec 5, 2011
516
This is a pic of the flasher and the resistor pointed out by the screwdriver
IMG_20120321_173458.jpg

IMG_20120321_173200.jpg

the numbers on the resistor
IMG_20120321_174144.jpg
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
That is not a resistor. That's a transistor. There is a 390 ohm resistor on the opposite corner (the beige thing with the colored stripes) but I don't think it is what controls the normal flash rate.

That metal band is a (low) resistance band. I believe swapping it out with the appropriate size resistor will do what we want. We'll find out soon enough as I'm going to mod mine... eventually...
 

DFWWIZ

Member
Dec 5, 2011
516
Sparky said:
That is not a resistor. That's a transistor. There is a 390 ohm resistor on the opposite corner (the beige thing with the colored stripes) but I don't think it is what controls the normal flash rate.

That metal band is a (low) resistance band. I believe swapping it out with the appropriate size resistor will do what we want. We'll find out soon enough as I'm going to mod mine... eventually...

Ok thx Sparky. Is that band having something to do with thermal flexing? Can it be shaped to make a difference?
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
I doubt the shape has any influence.
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,665
Tampa Bay Area, FL
DFWWIZ said:
Also looking at the flasher which is up under the dash, to see if it can be modified to up the resistance or changed out with another that has correct values. I know they make smaller ones that do this, just not sure about our style yet.

One member modded his stock flasher a little bit and made some progress in that department... :book:

kardain said:
Think I figured out the stock flasher enough to go resistorless and not have to get a new flasher (I dislike load resistors if you haven't figured it out by now).... It should just be as simple as cutting the trace on pin 7 of the u643b chip (the bulb out sensor pin). I'll test in about an hour when I go to lunch break. Since I know it hyperflashes on my vehicles, if it doesn't then I cut the right trace (the chip doesn't have a pin 1 marker for reference).

....

It works... Kind of.... Flash speed is reduced from standard hyperflash to about halfway between hyperflash and stock.

I'll have pics of the trace cut after work in case that speed is acceptable to some people. My phone can't get that close of a shot.

Moar experimenting is in order.

....

Here's the pic of the trace to cut (circled in red)... my computer was giving me fits so after a stern lecture... It's reversible with just a dab of solder on the cut section to re-complete the trace.

8EHHR.jpg
 

DFWWIZ

Member
Dec 5, 2011
516
Blckshdw said:
One member modded his stock flasher a little bit and made some progress in that department... :book:

So what about the resistor that is on the left side of the board that has orange, white, brown, gold rings - 391 +/-1%
 

MAY03LT

Original poster
Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,412
Delmarva
Blckshdw said:
One member modded his stock flasher a little bit and made some progress in that department... :book:

So the LM487 doesn't work? Like I said I don't know as much as you guys when it comes to this so if that flasher doesn't work I would like to know.
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,665
Tampa Bay Area, FL
MAY03LT said:
So the LM487 doesn't work? Like I said I don't know as much as you guys when it comes to this so if that flasher doesn't work I would like to know.

It half works... For me, it's fine, because my Depo tails have built in load resistors in them. So my switchbacks up front play nice. If you read through the LED Flasher thread on the OS, some people say they have LEDs in front and back, and it works... Others say they have LEDs front and back with the LED flasher, and it doesn't work, until they added load resistors to it. No real definitive stance on what the deal is. I would try testing that theory at one of our meets, but everybody is either stock bulbs, or has aftermarket projectors or tails that have the built in load resistors in em already :duh:

Edit: But if you have LEDs in front OR in back, with the flasher module, then it works as expected.
 

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