NEED HELP Missing 4WD Actuator and Disconnect - Assistance Needed

[southsidesmoka]

To Whom It May Concern:


Much to my delight, I recently purchased a 2003 Chevy TrailBlazer - on the 13th of July. It was a Friday.

Today, two weeks later, while continuing to give it a good once-over, replacing broken / worn parts and a tune-up, I found that my 4WD Disconnect and Actuator were decimated!





Sorry...the pictures posted sideways.

Much, much, much to my dismay, it appears some novice has removed the 4WD Disconnect and zip-tied the 4WD Actuator to the wheel control arm.

My TB runs fine with no fuse in the 4WD fuse socket - essentially a RWD truck. With the fuse in, the TB throws a code C0379. I would like to restore the truck to its' original functionality.

I am prepared to spend the several hundred dollars on the parts needed to repair my vehicle; however, I need knowledge and admonition to complete the task myself.

I need to know if this is a disconnect and actuator replacement or am I going to have to remove and replace something else like bearings and seals? Please, help!

Thank you for reading. Thank you for any and all assistance.


- southsidesmoka

 

[mrrsm]

Actuator R&R:

Disconnect Housing R&R:

Look for more input from GMT Nation Member 4X4 Owners for suggestions about the Best Replacement Parts vs. Cost to use here... (OEM is always the Best Choice ...if you can afford them)... and for any additional R&R Tips. As for the C0379 Code... After you complete this service... Clear the Codes and perform a Test Drive with caution and then re-check this repair to see if that one returns. This link covers that topic in another GMT Nation Thread... from Soup...To...Nuts:

https://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/4wd-service-light-c0379-code.1289/

 

[Matt]

I would suggest this one as a replacement: Trailblazer Disconnect or they also sell one without the actuator.

 

[Mooseman]

Or you could source your missing parts from a pick-a-part. The disconnect should be opened up to inspect the parts and the grease freshened up as per this article:
http://offroadtb.com/4wd-disconnect-rebuild/

I have a feeling that the reason the disconnect was broken is because it is stuck to the pan. This article should help you if it breaks in the pan itself.
Hard to remove front disconnect

I would suggest that after removing the bolts to tap it on the sides to try to turn it in the pan because if you just try to pry it off, it will most likely break in the pan, which will bring the big suck as described above. The idea is to break the bond created by the corrosion. An air hammer might also prove useful here.

To Whom It May Concern:

Please, no need to be so formal. We're just a bunch of enthusiasts here

 

[djthumper]

I would not go the junk yard way for the disconnect, it would suck to sped the time out there working on it just to have it break.

 

[Mooseman]

True. All depends on one's budget.

 

[djthumper]

If I were to pull a junker I would be rebuilding it anyhow. The cost and time are almost the same at that point.

 

[mrrsm]

If the Original Owner did not have the perspicacity to re-install the Disconnect Mounting Fasteners for the 'Missing Disconnect' ... right back inside of those Crankcase Bolt Up Holes... That Trip to the Salvage Yard might still prove necessary in the advent of their absence... and/or ...without knowing the exact dimensions/hardness of those Bolts in order to find some OEM quality replacements elsewhere.

 

[southsidesmoka]

Thank you, all, for the videos, the links, the advice and the knowledge! I am rather sure I am going to order that US Power Train Disconnect / Actuator due to quality and price. From what I think I can see, the original bolts for the disconnect remain in their anchor holes for usage; however, I haven't checked their condition and viability. I'll report back with any new details and, of course, results.

I feel like I am amongst friends...again, thank you all.

- southsidesmoka

 

[hockeyman]

The actuator was easy to replace. The disconnect was a pita to remove. I removed it with a flathead screwdriver by slowly prying each corner. Took a while though.

Here's where someone installed a grease fitting on the the disconnect to help it last longer. I would have done that too if I would have known before installing it:
http://forums.offroadtb.com/viewtopic.php?f=72&t=4596

 

[smt 59]

Thank you, all, for the videos, the links, the advice and the knowledge! I am rather sure I am going to order that US Power Train Disconnect / Actuator due to quality and price. From what I think I can see, the original bolts for the disconnect remain in their anchor holes for usage; however, I haven't checked their condition and viability. I'll report back with any new details and, of course, results.

I feel like I am amongst friends...again, thank you all.

- southsidesmoka

US Power Train was the actual supplier of these to GM and are good quality, this is really an easy job to do if you are an intermediate in the mechanical area. I would add the grease fitting when doing this , I did and it was very easy.