Low oil pressure on DIC, check gauges light and oil pressure gauge is low

[mrrsm]

If by 'rotated' you mean that yours is capable of having the BODY of the CPAS rotate independent of the short Angle Bracket that secures it to the outside of the Engine Head... I would have to say Yes. The outer-most portion of course is the Black Plastic Connector and should be rigidly attached to the CPAS Body being hard wired to the Solenoid Coil nested inside of the CPAS Body. So for the Body to move independent of that Connector would either mean the Angle Bracket has gotten loose and lost its grip.... or the internal wires have snapped off and in such an event ... the CPAS would cease to work. It is possible that over time and due to how dynamic the internal Solenoid is moving the center pin back and forth... that these opposing actions with the CPAS Body could fight against it... and over tens of thousands of these motions... it could work the CPAS Body loose from the Hold Down Bracket and allow a certain amount of play.

However... Please know that when you are either removing ...or installing the CPAS.... Once the Bracket Hold Down Bolt is completely removed... it is normal and necessary to use the outer edge of that Bracket to rotate the CPAS Body clockwise and counter-clockwise while either pulling or pushing it to guide it in ...or out. This is required during removal in order to loosen it from the hollow tube and guide the device outwards. When installing ONLY AN OEM version of the CPAS (No After-Market here...) the New, Slightly Over-sized "O" Ring will need just a dab of Engine Oil to get the CPAS pushed smoothly back inside the tube while making small clockwise and counter-clockwise motions. Push it in as far as possible (I know... there is a Bad Joke in here somewhere)... before re-installing the Hold Down Bolt and snugging it in place. Do NOT use the action of Tightening the Hold Down Bolt in the Angle Bracket to order force or draw the New CPAS Body inside of the Engine Head. You could strip out the Threads or damage the "O" Ring doing so.

While many of these tests require the use of GM (or a "GYMKO") Tech2 Scanner ...this link might prove helpful when using a Digital Multi-Meter on the CPAS and so this "Cam Phaser Diagnostic Flow Chart" can describe which things to look at along the way...knowing that the CPAS is often the pivotal player in "The Failure Show":

http://s557.photobucket.com/user/60...GINEREPAIR/CAMPHASERDIAGNOSTICS?sort=4&page=1

 

[Steevo]

OK. So the oil pressure switch is in and working, no more of that. I still suspect something in the top wiring harness. But I haven't investigated it yet.

When I originally changed that sensor in 2013 it had not eliminated the code, that meant it was another problem. But it's starting to look like something else. Maybe wiring.
The P0014 code is back.
The P0014 code went away a month ago when I changed the cam position sensor.
It doesn't seem to affect the running of the engine.
I still have a pretty immediate P0014, much sooner than I normally would have seen it. This vehicle would go a year without any problem with that and then it would start again. Like now.

I now have an occasional stumble at idle. The vehicle runs OK. But sitting at a stop light, it stumbles. Not nearly like a bad coil.
Someone said a vacuum leak.
What should I look into?

 

[Mooseman]

80% of the time, the CPAS causes the P0014. Other times, it's the cam sensor or the cam phaser.

 

[Steevo]

I changed it in 2013. Maybe I'll get another one.
What about the vague stumble? Any ideas what to look into?

 

[mrrsm]

Unless you had your vehicle parked and sitting for the last 5 Years... The added mileage since 2013... The persistent return of the ‘stumble’ and the presence of the P0014 should light up your “What Do I Change Next?” Sign like a Las Vegas Casino: “Change The CPAS”...

 

[Mooseman]

Also depends on the brand you used. If you used a Dorman, their reliability is less than stellar.

 

[Steevo]

It was borg warner. BWD. It's lifetime warranty of course but I can't find it.

 

[Mooseman]

We stick with ACDelco or Delphi for these. Aftermarket sometimes don't get it quite right with these critical components.

 

[Reprise]

It's lifetime warranty of course but I can't find it.

Depending on where you bought it, you may not need the receipt - if they find the purchase in their database, they'll give you the replacement. I know at least one chain is that way - when I bought a new alternator, the guy told me that once it hits their DB, I don't even need the receipt any longer (the S/N is recorded at time of sale.) And they can recognize their branded parts, of course. The nice thing about that is, being a nationwide chain, you can take it to any of their stores for a replacement.

The bad news is that you can only get the same brand for replacement, and if you want to switch brands, you're going to pay the whole cost of the new branded part.

 

[Steevo]

I just ordered the AC Delco Genuine GM 12615873 Camshaft Actuator Solenoid Valve on Amazon.
Hopefully it will be here soon.
$40.

Depending on where you bought it, you may not need the receipt - if they find the purchase in their database, they'll give you the replacement. I know at least one chain is that way - when I bought a new alternator, the guy told me that once it hits their DB, I don't even need the receipt any longer (the S/N is recorded at time of sale.) And they can recognize their branded parts, of course. The nice thing about that is, being a nationwide chain, you can take it to any of their stores for a replacement.

The bad news is that you can only get the same brand for replacement, and if you want to switch brands, you're going to pay the whole cost of the new branded part.

Oreilly couldn't find the part in their database. They usually can but not this time. I couldn't lay my hands on the receipt but I sure do know where the box is, but I am in a different state. I may return the BWD part as defective if I can find the receipt when I get back to my other place. But I have to solve this stumble.

I am slowly moving from CA to AZ.

 

[Reprise]

Sadly, 'lifetime warranty' doesn't mean "refund if it breaks". It's "new replacement of same brand" (or designated replacement of that one)

I can practically guarantee you won't get a refund. However, you could turn around and sell the BWD & recoup some $.

 

[Steevo]

I got a refund today, just for the cam sensor. I had changed it twice and had to buy another brand. They didn't say a word about it. Just credited my credit card. Oreilly. They know me pretty well there.

 

[Mooseman]

Lifetime warranty is just a marketing gimmick. They bank on the fact that the majority will not return a part because the vehicle has been sold or scrapped, lost receipt, owner forgets, etc. And it's not the part itself that costs the most but the labour. This is especially true for brake pads installed in shops. Sure, they have a lifetime warranty (~$40) but they don't cover the labour ~$400). They still make money. I once returned a set of ball joints on my '93 Blazer. Sure they covered the warranty but the work was a PITA. Imagine if done by a shop.

Sorry for the

 

[Steevo]

Of course. Since I keep vehicles until they drop, I take advantage of them. Heh.
I do get perverse pleasure in that.

 

[Steevo]

Ok, so the CPAS solenoid arrived today from Amazon. AC Delco.
I forgot that you have to dismount the PS pump to get it out and the new one in. It's been so long since I've done this.
Something for tomorrow.

Oh, I got it loose, and yeah, the CPAS can rotate on the short bracket.
I just wonder if that was the failure?

 

[mrrsm]

The Angle Bracket being loose is symptomatic that the Body of the CPAS was being moved slightly inwards and outwards over its life span of 5 Years innumerable times and thus... the Stamped Steel Bracket loosened its grip on the CPAS Body. You can verify this movement of the CPAS within the tube drilled into the Engine Head by spraying down the Body of the Old CPAS...and looking for wear along its outer diameter where it was rubbing back and forth enough to register such contact wear. This alone would not necessarily mean that the CPAS failed as a result of a loose Bracket... It is the persistence of the P0014 that is the biggest indicator of its failure.

I hate to wax metaphorically about "putting it back and waiting for it to fail..." as suggested by the HAL-9000 Computer in 2001: A Space Odyssey to a suspicious Commander Dave Bowman... but you already know this failure has happened by virtue of the P0014... so take some images to post back here so we can all see what the differences are between your Old CPAS... and the New OEM version you are about to install. At the conclusion of this R&R ...before you attach it...make certain to spray out the Oil Soaked CPAS Connector and wiring with a CRC Electrical Component De-Greaser. Then, prior to starting the vehicle... Disconnect the Negative Battery Terminal (8MM Box End Wrench) for at least 30 minutes to allow the PCM to sort out the presence of the New CPAS in the scheme of its affect upon the VVT behavior of the Cam Phaser... at idle. Hopefully... the coast will be clear after that...

 

[Steevo]

It seems the entire body of the CPAS can rotate. The bracket is still firmly attached to the center part that goes into the engine. It rotates in relation to the metal part that has the connector on it. The connector is a plastic plug in the end and that is secure.
I don't know if that is a failure or not. As I recall this was a BWD part, from Oreilly.
It's all back together now, I disconnected the battery as you said and waiting 30 minutes.
Here are pictures.

 

[mrrsm]

Well... I don't think anybody here can diagnose precisely what has gone wrong with the unit since it is a NON-OEM product. Unless you want to Beat a Dead Horse and try to get some of your money back... it might have more value here as Training Exercise if you take it apart (with a Dremel Tool) one layer at a time and post what you find in photos for GMTN CPAS Repair Posterity. Getting back to the Mission at Hand... We won't know whether this problem is actually [SOLVED] until after you've re-attached the Ground Cable ...and Fire That Puppy Up. The suspense is killing me... :>)

 

[Steevo]

Well, that was an exercise.
It started right up with a terrible miss or stumble. Pretty constant, though not the kind of miss you get when you have a coil go bad.
It's much more obvious at idle. About the same as before the new CPAS. I have driven a little, not much.

So here's what I've done so far.
1. Changed a bad coil. Changed the one plug at the same time. #6. I have one Delphi coil left.
2. Changed the oil pressure switch because of low oil pressure indication
3. Had P0014
4. Changed the cam sensor.
5. Still have P0014
6. Had P0300, I never got the cylinder specific code P030X
7. Changed the rest of the spark plugs to solve miss or stumble. Problem still there.
8. Changed the 6 spark plugs again. AC Delco both times. Problem still there. I have bought just under $100 in spark plugs.
9. Changed the CPAS.
10. Disconnected the battery for one hour.
11. SES light is off, not sure if that's normal for battery disconnected. I didn't have to clear it.
12. Problem still there. Miss or stumble.
I am back to the wiring harness. Since when I changed the oil pressure switch it went crazy, pulling on the harness seems to have changed that.

 

[Steevo]

I drove a little, the stumble is still there, and I got a P0304 code! That's good.
The drivers side AC is however blowing hot all the time. The passenger is cool.
This thing is possessed.

 

[mrrsm]

I know that it can become very discouraging when diagnosing this situation... but I must stress that there are so many variables that have to be eliminated ...One By One... in many cases before you can sort out the precise culprit. When it comes to the use of a VVT Cam Phaser... Figuring out the differences between "The Baby and The Bath Water" can be unnerving. THIS article should give you some satisfying confirmation that switching out the CPAS in your circumstance was a necessary and proper thing to do in the scheme of your investigation so far. It does appear at first to be like trying to stamp out multiple fires in a forest... but the weird inter-relations between all of these sensors and the reaction to them all by the PCM to work out a proper idle and Power-Torque curve is a bewildering thing to dissect all at once. Having a COMPLETE historical list of the Engine Codes would really help the situation.

Reading this article will also ground you in the need to have a Scan Tool with Bi-Directional capability and the chance to command certain tests while the engine is running to further your diagnoses. It is too bad a Distant Aunt did not bequeath you with a GM "GYMKO" Tech II Scanner for that would be enormously helpful to you right about now. Currently they are on sale at AliExpress for around $330.00. The fact that you still have the engine stumble might be pointing towards a Failed Cam Phaser... which if this has occurred will open up The Biggest Can of Worms you have EVER had to deal with on something that was so very easy to repair in By-Gone Days. Here is the link to the Article... Trust me... it is an education in a Nutshell on VVT Cam Phased Engines:

https://www.motor.com/magazinepdfs/082009_09.pdf

 

[Steevo]

So I changed out the #4 coil. I do not have high hopes that is the problem. I haven't driven it yet.
I think the P0304 is looking up. I haven't looked at that one plug yet, that is something for the light of day tomorrow if at all.
I have to say if the problem is internal to the engine, that would be far outside the scope of what I am willing to do.

I have to find mooseman's picture with part numbers of the AC actuators. I had it here somewhere. Drivers side mode actuator, I would say. Hot air. I hate that.

 

[Steevo]

As to the engine codes. I have had P0300, as I said. And I have had a number of the P030X cylinder specific codes, which are obviously a bad coil since that's what I bought and slapped on there and it fixed it.
I have had the P0014 for literally years, off and on. It has disappeared for months, even many months. Then might come back.
I have had a couple of other codes over the years. Not sure. I can try to figure that out.

 

[Steevo]

DTC history
MIL DTC: P0014 5/13/2015 12:34 PM
MIL DTC:P0340 9/17/2013 6:02 PM
MIL DTC: P0304 9/15/2013 7:54 PM
MIL DTC: P0014 11/26/2011 4:03 PM
MIL DTC: P1345 11/7/2011 7:02 PM

Quick Code Summary:

• Code P0014 indicates that the Bank 1 Exhaust Camshaft Position timing was advanced beyond limits for a predetermined period of time.
• This condition will prevent the vehicle from running at its optimum efficiency and fuel economy may suffer.
• The camshaft position actuator reduces emissions and increases engine performance and fuel economy.

Conditions For Setting This Code:

Engine started, vehicle driven with the Cam Phaser active, and the PCM detected the difference between the Actual and Desired Cam Phase angle was over 1.5 degrees with the Cam Phaser steady for 20 seconds (50% duty cycle signal Achievas a steady retard angle).

Possible Causes:

• CKP or CMP sensor loose/damaged (causes signal variation) Contamination or debris interfering with the actuator operation Timing chain and gear assembly has excessive free-play TSB 01-06-04-052 contains a repair procedure for this code

Repair Verification Process:

An example of how to drive a vehicle to verify the repair of a trouble code related to the CCM on these vehicle applications is shown in the Graphic below.

Repair Verification Graphic

reeze Frame Information

Parameter Description Results

DTC for which Freeze Frame was Stored P0014
Fuel System 1 Status Closed Loop
Fuel System 2 Status Not Supported
Calculated LOAD Value 98.43 %
Engine Coolant Temp 190.40 °F
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 -1.56 %
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 -3.91 %
Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure 19.25 inHg
Engine RPM 1852.00 rpm
Vehicle Speed Sensor 39.77 mph

 

[mrrsm]

If you are saying that after the CPAS R&R the P0014 Code has CLEARED... Consider that Good Progress. As for the problem of getting Multiple, Random P03XX Codes... the Problem does NOT necessarily have to reside in the Ignition Circuit... Rather it could be something as simple as having LOOSE FASTENERS ON THE INTAKE MANIFOLD...(Simple to Identify... not so Simple to Rectify)... as gaining access to all of the the 10MM (?) Bolts in the harsh and confined spaces around the Driver's Side of the LL8 Engine is... OBPITA... Take for Example... there is One Bolt that is HIDDEN under the Crankcase to IM Elbow Rubber Hose that is roughly in the center of the IM Flange.

What you should know is that because the Semi-Circular Intake Runners are so LONG (necessary for More Torque) in the design of the Black Nylon Manifold ...and with the HEAVY Throttle Body Suspended Off Center on the top side of the IM... slightly above the Motor... in time, the whole arrangement tends to move like a pendulum back and forth and up and down... gradually flattening out those ordinarily "plump" Rubber Gaskets sealing off each Intake Port... and then come the vacuum leaks... but not in one place...and not all of the time.

When this happens... you can get these mysterious "Dreaded INTERMITTENT P03XX Codes" and quick Lean Mis-Fires that seem to come out of nowhere and then oddly disappear during periods of long driving on smooth road surfaces... Hence the lessening of this pendulum-like behavior. The IM and the TB tend to act like a Weight lifter working his Triceps on one arm with a 25 Lb Dumb Bell suspended over his head-shoulder like "The Sword of Damocles" ... No difference with the Mass and Weight of the Throttle Body trying to bounce up and down. So REPLACING those "Figure 8" IM Gaskets and snugging them down could make those Random P03XX Codes ...a Thing of The Past.

There is one other thing that can really exacerbate this problem when the Motor is at idle: Bad Motor Mounts... because if the Engine is Shaking like a Chihuahua Sh*tting a Peach Pit... that Pendulum Effect on a Loose Intake Manifold could be happening so rapidly as to make the Engine want to Stall Out from little vacuum leaks all over the flange... which kind of sounds a like a familiar symptom.

 

[Steevo]

Ok, so I had the P0304. Last night before I went out I replaced the cylinder 4 coil with a working Delphi coil I had removed. I have to say after that I saw less misfire. It ran ok last night, a vague intermittent stumble. Seems less than before.
Today I was out and the SES light came on. Still the stumble is very vague. Much less.
The code reader says P0014 again. Two of them.
One stored, one pending.
2/4/2018 4:08 PM MIL DTC: P0014

Here is the freezeframe data from today.
Parameter Description Results

DTC for which Freeze Frame was Stored P0014
Fuel System 1 Status Closed Loop
Fuel System 2 Status Not Supported
Calculated LOAD Value 90.20 %
Engine Coolant Temp 183.20 °F
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 -3.91 %
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 -7.03 %
Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure 16.88 inHg
Engine RPM 2220.25 rpm
Vehicle Speed Sensor 31.07 mph

 

[Steevo]

I think I am going to look at the Cylinder 4 spark plug.
A mechanic who worked on this said a smoke test would detect a intake manifold leak.
BTW, when all this started I posted on a code that said small evap leak. I changed the gas cap because it was easy, but I was told by one guy that a smoke test was required and that gas cap would have been a large evap leak. But I dunno.
I have not seen the small evap leak code again.

 

[mrrsm]

The #4 Spark Plug would not be causal in throwing the P0014 Code. Before you wind up going all over the map searching for answers... unless you have recent, specific EVAP Codes pop up... I'd recommend not shifting focus just yet to any other secondary systems. You could try starting the Engine and after allowing it to come up to Operating Temperature at Idle... then Jiggle the CPAS Connector Wires and the Wiring leading back into the Main Harness Bundle and move things around gradually. Listen for the Engine Stumbles to occur. If something happens while doing this... then you will need to focus on inspecting the CPAS Connector (push-pull wires inside) and the entire CPAS Wire Harness and related areas with a Broken Circuit Probe Tool. This one is quite inexpensive and should do the trick:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P0QKRG6/?tag=gmtnation-20

If that action does not show any promise... I've mentioned earlier and listed this GM CPAS Diagnostic Flow Chart to read and follow the cascade of where these symptoms are pointing... and now would be a good time to give it a second look, as next ...the PCM will need investigating ...and LBNL... The Cam Phaser may ultimately prove to be the source of the P0014 if the Helical Internals and Return Spring are not functioning properly ... or if the front of the Engine sounds Real Noisy and Clatters ... then the Timing Chain Tensioner may have gone sideways. Let us hope this is NOT the direction things go because if these repairs are required... The Nightmare Cam Phaser R&R only gets worse from there on out.

http://s557.photobucket.com/user/60...GINEREPAIR/CAMPHASERDIAGNOSTICS?sort=4&page=1

One thing that has NOT been suggested yet is for you to take a decent Video with Good Sound of the Engine Bay with the Motor at Idle ... Taking views from The Front ...The Top and Both sides underneath the Vehicle so we can listen to how the Engine sounds at Idle. Remove the Oil Filler Cap and focus the Camera down inside so we can listen to how the Timing Chain sounds while the Engine Idles. This information often proves decisive in figuring out whether you have a Slack Timing Chain which would of course affect the performance of the Cam Phaser in its relationship to the Crankshaft. Remember to re-install the Oil Filler Cap afterwards and post all videos back here or link GMT Nation to your Youtube Channel.

Because more than one problem can be happening here, occurring very close together... Since the Intake Manifold is on the "Inhaling" side of this process... with the Engine at Idle and with a Fresh ABC Fire Extinguisher on hand Just In Case... You might try using an Unlit Propane Torch Tank or a Spray Can of Starter Fluid... IN VERY SMALL AMOUNTS (No Smoking... No Sparking Nearby ...No Incandescently Hot Metals Nearby... AS YOU DO NOT WANT AN EXPLOSIVE GAS CLOUD TO BUILD UP AND IGNITE UNDER THE HOOD... but by guiding a very small amount of the Gas Vapors around the Flange areas of the IM... if the Engine suddenly Accelerates... then you may have pin-pointed another problem as a Vacuum Leak ...and Failed IM Rubber Gaskets.

BE CAREFUL AND DO NOT GET TOO ENTHUSIASTIC WITH THE VAPOR SPRAYING IF YOU DO NOT GET AN IMMEDIATE RESPONSE TO ITS PRESENCE.

 

[Sparky]

Gas caps usually are small leaks first before they become large leaks. Never had a gas cap throw a large leak code, unless someone left the cap off

And heck, you changed your cap and no more code since, so there ya go!

 

[Steevo]

The #4 Spark Plug would not be causal in throwing the P0014 Code.

No, that was for the P0304 code in post number 60 above.

Before you wind up going all over the map searching for answers... unless you have recent, specific EVAP Codes pop up... I'd recommend not shifting focus just yet to any other secondary systems. You could try starting the Engine and after allowing it to come up to Operating Temperature at Idle... then Jiggle the CPAS Connector Wires and the Wiring leading back into the Main Harness Bundle and move things around gradually. Listen for the Engine Stumbles to occur. If something happens while doing this... then you will need to focus on inspecting the CPAS Connector (push-pull wires inside) and the entire CPAS Wire Harness and related areas with a Broken Circuit Probe Tool. This one is quite inexpensive and should do the trick:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P0QKRG6/?tag=gmtnation-20

https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-T...7790883&sr=8-12&keywords=broken+circuit+probe

No, but the title of this thread, and when this exercise began, I had a low oil pressure indication, and pulling on the wires when replacing the switch gave indication this was a wiring problem. That was in post #30-32. It got quite wild at the time.

If that action does not show any promise... I've mentioned earlier and listed this GM CPAS Diagnostic Flow Chart to read and follow the cascade of where these symptoms are pointing... and now would be a good time to give it a second look, as next ...the PCM will need investigating ...and LBNL... The Cam Phaser may ultimately prove to be the source of the P0014 if the Helical Internals and Return Spring are not functioning properly ... or if the front of the Engine sounds Real Noisy and Clatters ... then the Timing Chain Tensioner may have gone sideways. Let us hope this is NOT the direction things go because if these repairs are required... The Nightmare Cam Phaser R&R only gets worse from there on out.

http://s557.photobucket.com/user/60...GINEREPAIR/CAMPHASERDIAGNOSTICS?sort=4&page=1

One thing that has NOT been suggested yet is for you to take a decent Video with Good Sound of the Engine Bay with the Motor at Idle ... Taking views from The Front ...The Top and Both sides underneath the Vehicle so we can listen to how the Engine sounds at Idle. Remove the Oil Filler Cap and focus the Camera down inside so we can listen to how the Timing Chain sounds while the Engine Idles. This information often proves decisive in figuring out whether you have a Slack Timing Chain which would of course affect the performance of the Cam Phaser in its relationship to the Crankshaft. Remember to re-install the Oil Filler Cap afterwards and post all videos back here or link GMT Nation to your Youtube Channel.

Because more than one problem can be happening here, occurring very close together... Since the Intake Manifold is on the "Inhaling" side of this process... with the Engine at Idle and with a Fresh ABC Fire Extinguisher on hand Just In Case... You might try using an Unlit Propane Torch Tank or a Spray Can of Starter Fluid... IN VERY SMALL AMOUNTS (No Smoking... No Sparking Nearby ...No Incandescently Hot Metals Nearby... AS YOU DO NOT WANT AN EXPLOSIVE GAS CLOUD TO BUILD UP AND IGNITE UNDER THE HOOD... but by guiding a very small amount of the Gas Vapors around the Flange areas of the IM... if the Engine suddenly Accelerates... then you may have pin-pointed another problem as a Vacuum Leak ...and Failed IM Rubber Gaskets.

BE CAREFUL AND DO NOT GET TOO ENTHUSIASTIC WITH THE VAPOR SPRAYING IF YOU DO NOT GET AN IMMEDIATE RESPONSE TO ITS PRESENCE.

A mechanic who has a little shop, helped me a little with this stuff, sprayed carb spray around that nylon manifold and it reacted. That might indicate an intake manifold leak, as discussed. He said he needs a smoke test to tell. So that might be next.
I do think there is a problem with that wiring harness, and I am going to inspect it thoroughly as soon as I can. I think the P0014 is fake. Caused by a crimped or broken wire in the harness. I think the low oil pressure indication was also fake and was caused by the same thing.

 

[Steevo]

Changing the #4 coil has seemingly reduced the stumble. Not to zero, but less, at least my initial impression.
I may just pull that plug out and check it out, since I have so darned many plugs on hand.

 

[Mooseman]

It could be fouled due to the misfire. Check for water in the plug well.

 

[Steevo]

This is in rural Arizona. There's no water anywhere.
The P0014 is back, and the stumble is very vague now.

 

[mrrsm]

The Dreaded Return of the P0014 Code is an Old Story that begins like this ...

https://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/cpas-replacement-p0014.13330/

...and unfortunately, as mentioned in the LAST Message in this next Thread … it serves as a predictive, probable direction this recurrent problem for you is heading. The solution can only be to Remove and Replace The Camshaft Phaser (AKA: Exhaust Camshaft Actuator) ...or better known around here to those with this R&R Experience as being “The Mad House of Mechanical Repairs on the GM 4.2L LL8 Engine”.

https://gmtnation.com/forums/thread...ttle-confused-on-what-to-do-please-help.8770/

https://www.yourmechanic.com/articl...d-or-system-performance-bank-1-by-jay-safford

@Mooseman has a Classic Write-Up in the next linked thread to advise you on what all is involved before, during and after this ...Dread Descent Into Hell:

https://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/how-to-replace-the-cam-phaser-aka-vvt-actuator.14924/

 

[Mooseman]

One note, I have yet to see a single bad phaser cause a p0014. It usually causes a p1345. Before condemning it, it may be prudent to attempt a CASE relearn and then further diagnosis using a Tech 2 to manually operate the VVT and see how it responds. Both will require a trip to a shop or dealer with a Tech 2. Replacing the phaser is not for the novice DIYer.

 

[Steevo]

Hah.
You have to wonder about this.
New GM Tech2 Diagnostic Scanner For GM/SAAB/OPEL/SUZUKI/ISUZU/Holden Vetronix Tech 2 with Carton Box [Chinese New Year Promo]
http://www.buyobdtoolshop.com/wholesale/gm-tech2-without-carrying-case.html
$239 plus $59 shipping.

 

[Steevo]

So I have now changed the CPAS for a new one, AC Delco
I still got P0014
Changed the CPS again, this is three times.
I still got P0014
The engine seems to run ok since I changed the CPS and the one coil. I don't notice the slight stumble anymore.
I took the connectors off both of those, sprayed them with some electronic cleaner spray.

Cleared the MIL. Drove a while. Parked overnight. Drove the next day. MIL comes on.
Now I have a P1345
I don't much think it's actually an internal engine problem. I had a P0340 in 2013. It never came back.

MIL DTC

P1345 Variable Cam Phaser Circuit Malfunction
Conditions For Setting This Code:

Engine started, engine running at idle, system voltage over 11.0v, and the PCM detected the Variable Cam Phaser was commanded to zero for 16 seconds. The PCM uses the CKP and CMP sensor signals to monitor the correlation between the crankshaft and camshaft positions. This code (DTC P1345) will set if the deviation between the crankshaft and camshaft exceeds a calibrated amount.

Possible Causes:

• Camshaft position actuator solenoid high control circuit is shorted to voltage or the solenoid stuck open failed
• Engine rebuilt incorrectly or harmonic balancer not tightened
• The PCM disables the ability to command the Variable Cam Phaser on the Scan Tool to prevent engine damage from excessive valve overlap during engine operation.

Repair Verification Graphic

DTC for which Freeze Frame was Stored P1345
Fuel System 1 Status Closed Loop
Fuel System 2 Status Not Supported
Calculated LOAD Value 100.00 %
Engine Coolant Temp 185.00 °F
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 -4.69 %
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 -4.69 %
Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure 21.32 inHg
Engine RPM 2839.00 rpm
Vehicle Speed Sensor 21.13 mph

Any more ideas? I think this is wiring harness related, after the incident earlier in this thread with the oil pressure switch.

 

[Mooseman]

Not so fast. I have intimate knowledge of this code, hitting me twice. Wound up being the cam phaser in both cases. Don't know where you got that code description but the circuit itself is not at fault. It is reporting cam and crank angles and that they are incorrect for what is being commanded by the PCM.
https://www.engine-codes.com/p1345_chevrolet.html

If this DTC started after recent internal engine repairs, inspect for proper engine mechanical timing. With the camshaft cover removed and the #1 cylinder at top dead center, make sure that the darkened chain links are lined up with the alignment marks on the exhaust and intake cam sprockets.

If a P0016 or P1345 is resetting without any engine performance concerns but the above information did not isolate a cause for the DTC, replace the Cam Phaser Actuator sprocket.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

 

[mrrsm]

Unfortunately… You have “Crossed The Rubicon”… or perhaps “The River Styx” would be a more appropriate metaphor in this case... because #1 on the Major Repair Runway is the necessity of performing an R&R of: The Cam Phaser. In spite of having more than enough empirical experience with what this will mean to you… and having well researched and acted upon the right Technical Information… these two links covering all of that should NOT be the first place for you to begin.... The Best Instructions come from @Mooseman:

This First Thread is one big SLOG and a PITA to read… How do I know? … I wrote it. However… the best information that you will find useful will be found on the first few pages because I listed all of the Components, Parts and Part Numbers on hard to find data that will be indispensable if you fall over the edge and try to do this job:

https://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/the-85-000-00-gm-4-2l-engine-repair.14423/

This next one (… arguably another Big Slog ) involves a contemporary GM 4.2L Engine Swap Project that has been sidelined for months due to my need for Major Eye Surgery and other unforeseen major family mission creep issues that have been unavoidable. Nonetheless… it is still contemporary and still may be worth reviewing. If nothing else… But...it is HERE that you’ll find the links to my various Photobucket Albums that have thousands of images dedicated to the disassembly, investigation and understanding the GM Vortec LL8 4.2L Engine Platform:

https://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/engine-swap-2004-for-2002-gm-atlas-4-2l-motor.15786/

However… If you are a very capable mechanic with fairly deep pockets with oceans of patience… or one with a burning desire to rip into the top of your engine and perform the difficult Cam Phaser R&R… then by all means…For God's Sake... Listen to what @Mooseman tells you… follow his Classic Cam Phaser R&R Thread and everyone here will wish you the very best of luck in doing the job successfully with the least amount of trouble!

 

[Steevo]

Yeah, that's nothing I am going to be doing. And I do think that would condemn this vehicle.
However, after the stuff we noticed when changing that oil pressure sender and how the gauges reacted I really think this is a wiring problem.