LED Mod Thread

Aarkon

Guru
Nov 6, 2013
5,607
It seems easier if you run good quality strips around the outside of the top peice covering the guages and you can remove all the bulbs and still be able to only use the solder points you need on the outermost point on the circuit board without having to run jumper wires
 
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BlazingTrails

Banned
Apr 27, 2014
19,409
I forgot to mention earlier that this also fixed the problem of the lights being dim when using the map light. Now they function as normal lights. I only did this to the front passenger light because it was the end of the line. But it may work if you put one in any of the sockets.

This had come up before and I was not aware if a solution had been discussed yet.

uploadfromtaptalk1443923215699.jpg
 

Mounce

Guru
Mar 29, 2014
13,663
Tuscaloosa, AL
I had brought up the resistor once or twice and I think Carlton did too but none of us ever tried it that I know of. Since you've been a good little Guinea pig we all know it works now. :wink:

I'll try to get around to trying it in a couple weeks. :tiphat:
 

mcsteven

Guru
Apr 18, 2012
6,584
BlazingTrails said:
I forgot to mention earlier that this also fixed the problem of the lights being dim when using the map light. Now they function as normal lights. I only did this to the front passenger light because it was the end of the line. But it may work if you put one in any of the sockets.

This had come up before and I was not aware if a solution had been discussed yet.

attachicon.gif
20151003_051114.jpg
I am using, and I know a lot of others are using, the 24 SMD panels. Do you believe that if we put a 680 ohm resistor on the negative (?) side that it would make the lights work as normal? Do you have LEDs in your visor mirror lights? If yes, did it have any affect?
 
Jul 6, 2014
9,131
Remember when I said I was playing with nightshades?
vht.jpg
 
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Blckshdw

Likes lights and stuff
Original poster
Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,159
Tampa Bay Area, FL
littleblazer said:
Remember when I said I was playing with nightshades?
At least you won't have to worry about the lights being too bright... Assuming that was your goal
 
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Jul 6, 2014
9,131
Blckshdw said:
At least you won't have to worry about the lights being too bright... Assuming that was your goal
Yes it was. They were way too bright. Now they are only about 10% brighter then stock. you couldn't tell the rear windows were tinted at night lol.
 

Blckshdw

Likes lights and stuff
Original poster
Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,159
Tampa Bay Area, FL
littleblazer said:
Yes it was. They were way too bright. Now they are only about 10% brighter then stock. you couldn't tell the rear windows were tinted at night lol.
:duh: You coulda just used less LEDs you know. If I didn't know about the reduction, I wouldn't have banned you for it. :raspberry:
 
Jul 6, 2014
9,131
Blckshdw said:
:duh: You coulda just used less LEDs you know. If I didn't know about the reduction, I wouldn't have banned you for it. :raspberry:
They didn't seem that bright on the test bench in the garage that was well lit. :raspberry: But at 11 at night when someone opens the door it was like day time. Too much light...
 
Jul 6, 2014
9,131
BlazingTrails said:
That's why I went with 194 lights. 5 smd very nice amount of light :smile:
#builtnotbought Just kidding man. :rotfl: I have a few other projects I wanted the supplies for so it was a win win. :yes:
 
Jul 6, 2014
9,131
What do you mean? :undecided: :rotfl:
 

mcsteven

Guru
Apr 18, 2012
6,584
BlazingTrails said:
I do. But it needs to be installed as a load resistor. (From positive to neg)
Ok - got it. I'm pretty sure I can solder right handed. Left (dominant hand) is pretty much hopeless.

BlazingTrails said:
You didn't build the smd boards? We are all building our trucks though :smile:

Check out the last couple of posts in my build thread :smile:
EXACTLY - you should see the receiver hitch I forged. ;-)
 
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BlazingTrails

Banned
Apr 27, 2014
19,409
It is a tight squeeze I had to have it in just the right spot to fit the base back on. You could also probably drop the light from the roof and solder it on the top somewhere or tap it into the wires.

I was glad to fix that problem :yes:
 

mcsteven

Guru
Apr 18, 2012
6,584
It is a tight squeeze I had to have it in just the right spot to fit the base back on. You could also probably drop the light from the roof and solder it on the top somewhere or tap it into the wires.

I was glad to fix that problem :yes:

Not sure if this was to my inquiry or someone else's note. I'm using the 24 SMD 5630 boards. I don't know if you've seen them up close but I'm certain you can picture it. It's the board, goes out to positive and negative wire, out to a small connector, and that connector goes to the fitting specific adapter.
 
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HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,658
Got some 27 watt driving lights in LED for the new bumper
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,658
I don't really like halos myself.

Basic Amazon ones. Barton had some, but I am trying a slightly different, supposedly new model, so I can advise better once they get hooked up and see if his or mine really are any different. I did get lucky and they sent me 4 instead of 2. Gives me even more random ones to play with.

4- 4 inch round 27 watts
4 - 18 watt cubes
2 - 6 inch bars
Spare 22 inch bar

Really want to get some camp/reverse light done but likely be a winter thing.

I am thinking I will do some rock lights like Dennis did a few of. Thinking these would be worth trying
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VL9LNVO/?tag=gmtnation-20
 

Daniel644

Hobbyist
Feb 27, 2015
522
So I got my new LED light strip, this will be for house use with the eventual goal to have the house I want to have all the lighting off of solar power and only run a few things off of grid removing the bigger loads, but thats a while out, this is the new 600 led 3014 strip I got off ebay for 18 bucks with the power brick and all.



Looking at my Kill-a-Watt meter it appears to be pulling around 25-26 watts from the house wall outlet
 

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HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,658
Quite nice!
 

Grimor

Hobbyist
Mar 28, 2013
954
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dmanns67

Guru
Apr 3, 2013
32,979
Ohio
I swapped out my front turn signals today with the replacement 3157 LEDs that I received when one of the 3157 LEDs failed on the F150.

This is the style I have been running for a while now. They are bright with 22 5630 chips, but the contrast from when the parking lights are on and turn the blinker on was not too great.
s-60540361l1600.jpg


The Ebay seller sent me these replacement 3157 LEDs with 34 5630 chips. Guess they went to a new design. Obviously much brighter and a nice contrast when using the turn signal when the parking lights are on. I removed the "projector lens" as it just twisted off.
s-l1600.jpg


Out of all the 3157 LEDs I have tried, this style has the best contrast with parking lights on and using the turn signal. Down side is the parking light is dimmer than all of the other LEDs that I have tried, but I would assume that is why the contrast is more noticeable. I am actually using this style currently in the wife's F150. Projector lens has been removed as well.

sasdasdasdasd-l500.jpg
 

Mounce

Guru
Mar 29, 2014
13,663
Tuscaloosa, AL
That's the same style leds I have in the TB and Mustang. TB's reflectors don't do them justice at all. They're stupid bright in the mustangs reflectors but only just better than stock in the TB.

I might be able to snag a vid, Brandon. If you don't see it in a day or two, remind me lol.
 
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dmanns67

Guru
Apr 3, 2013
32,979
Ohio
I guess I spoke too soon. The new 3157s that I have installed have failed :no: Appears to have started to overheat and start melting internally. Sent the pic to the EBay seller and will hopefully send me a 3rd replacement set.

I knew something was up because when I was leaving work Friday night and hit the unlock button on the key fob, my mirror turn signals were flashing with the parking lights which had never happened before. When I turned on parking lights, I noticed my left turn signal indicator was staying lit on the dash. Ended up removing both front turn signals before driving home since the 3157s were shorted and causing weird issues.

I also had no hyper flash with the front turn signals removed. I assume because of the load resistors that are wired in :undecided: Had to throw in the 3157s that I just took out the other day.

IMG_20151024_130515.jpg
 

Mounce

Guru
Mar 29, 2014
13,663
Tuscaloosa, AL
Had that happen to one of mine but much later on. Neat little driver board inside and it was burnt right to a crisp.

Seller sent me a replacement with no hassle and I haven't had an issue since.
 
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07TrailyLS

Active Member
May 7, 2014
423
Toledo ohio
Hi boys. Finally went about installing the LEDs into my cluster last night. First time ever soldering, everything worked except for the right turn signal bulb. Well it did work, then it went out. Anyway, onto the question. I have an 07 LS and my headlight switch assembly seems to differ greatly from the diagram showing polarities. I was just wondering if any of you that had the same assembly as me know the polarities. Thanks guys
 

Blckshdw

Likes lights and stuff
Original poster
Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,159
Tampa Bay Area, FL
Hi boys. Finally went about installing the LEDs into my cluster last night. First time ever soldering, everything worked except for the right turn signal bulb. Well it did work, then it went out. Anyway, onto the question. I have an 07 LS and my headlight switch assembly seems to differ greatly from the diagram showing polarities. I was just wondering if any of you that had the same assembly as me know the polarities. Thanks guys

You may have to determine those yourself. If you don't have a meter handy, solder a resistor to an LED, and use that as your polarity tester since it will only light up one way. :twocents:
 

07TrailyLS

Active Member
May 7, 2014
423
Toledo ohio
Thanks a lot blck!
 

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