Hello everyone,
I hope this is the right sub-forum. I was removing the lower control arm bracket and manged to snap the treads on the bolt or the welded nut (possibly both). That's the first time I've ever done that in all my years DIY. Of course, the head, bolt and nut are located in one of the worst locations. I've been searching for days now, but hope others would share their wisdom and experience before I attacked this.
Attached are photos.
My questions will be in bold red, with a "Q".
Current Status
The bolt just spins in the welded nut. The head is still attached. It's thick, 10-6 class, 21mm. It won't back out and there's no room to pry anything under the head flange to give it some pressure. Tried applying pressure with a pry bar at the top of the bolt, but that was a waste of time. I couldn't get a C clamp on top of it either.
My current plan is:
My concerns are being that this bracket is holding my lower control arm, I don't want to have to worry about this repair while driving / going over bumps, etc. I'd like to get it as close to OEM specs (torque, strength) as I possible can.
I have nice collection of tools already but none of the following: torch, easy-outs, thread repair kit. I've never used any of these before, especially a torch. I wouldn't know where to start. I've read conflicting posts about which technique is better, and those were never talking about a crucial part that's holding main suspension.
Asking for guidance, recommended tools, brands, type of material for blades or bits and even best wishes
Thanks so much!
I hope this is the right sub-forum. I was removing the lower control arm bracket and manged to snap the treads on the bolt or the welded nut (possibly both). That's the first time I've ever done that in all my years DIY. Of course, the head, bolt and nut are located in one of the worst locations. I've been searching for days now, but hope others would share their wisdom and experience before I attacked this.
Attached are photos.
My questions will be in bold red, with a "Q".
Current Status
The bolt just spins in the welded nut. The head is still attached. It's thick, 10-6 class, 21mm. It won't back out and there's no room to pry anything under the head flange to give it some pressure. Tried applying pressure with a pry bar at the top of the bolt, but that was a waste of time. I couldn't get a C clamp on top of it either.
My current plan is:
- Try to cut / grind / drill bolt head completely. It won't take a center punch. It flattened all the ones I had.
Q. I can't get a traditional grinder in the area due to where the head sits (see photo). Will a dremel do the job? I have only a few inches of play to maneuver. Ideas?
- Once head is removed, Use vice grips to back out the bolt from the top.
- Re-tap, or Re-thread the welded nut. Q. which is better for strength and getting me back to spec? Or should I not do either and weld a new one on top, instead?) The current welded nut is located above the frame and extremely hard to get to. I can only feel it. Grinding it off would be extremely difficult, if not impossible. I prefer not having to weld but will if I must.
My concerns are being that this bracket is holding my lower control arm, I don't want to have to worry about this repair while driving / going over bumps, etc. I'd like to get it as close to OEM specs (torque, strength) as I possible can.
I have nice collection of tools already but none of the following: torch, easy-outs, thread repair kit. I've never used any of these before, especially a torch. I wouldn't know where to start. I've read conflicting posts about which technique is better, and those were never talking about a crucial part that's holding main suspension.
Asking for guidance, recommended tools, brands, type of material for blades or bits and even best wishes
Thanks so much!