LCA Bracket Bolt Stripped. What would you do?

n0sleeves

Original poster
Member
Sep 21, 2021
2
New Orleans
Hello everyone,

I hope this is the right sub-forum. I was removing the lower control arm bracket and manged to snap the treads on the bolt or the welded nut (possibly both).:duh: That's the first time I've ever done that in all my years DIY. Of course, the head, bolt and nut are located in one of the worst locations. I've been searching for days now, but hope others would share their wisdom and experience before I attacked this.

Attached are photos.
My questions will be in bold red, with a "Q".

Current Status
The bolt just spins in the welded nut. The head is still attached. It's thick, 10-6 class, 21mm. It won't back out and there's no room to pry anything under the head flange to give it some pressure. Tried applying pressure with a pry bar at the top of the bolt, but that was a waste of time. I couldn't get a C clamp on top of it either.

My current plan is:
  1. Try to cut / grind / drill bolt head completely. It won't take a center punch. It flattened all the ones I had.
    Q. I can't get a traditional grinder in the area due to where the head sits (see photo). Will a dremel do the job? I have only a few inches of play to maneuver. Ideas?

  2. Once head is removed, Use vice grips to back out the bolt from the top.

  3. Re-tap, or Re-thread the welded nut. Q. which is better for strength and getting me back to spec? Or should I not do either and weld a new one on top, instead?) The current welded nut is located above the frame and extremely hard to get to. I can only feel it. Grinding it off would be extremely difficult, if not impossible. I prefer not having to weld but will if I must.

My concerns are being that this bracket is holding my lower control arm, I don't want to have to worry about this repair while driving / going over bumps, etc. I'd like to get it as close to OEM specs (torque, strength) as I possible can.

I have nice collection of tools already but none of the following: torch, easy-outs, thread repair kit. I've never used any of these before, especially a torch. I wouldn't know where to start. I've read conflicting posts about which technique is better, and those were never talking about a crucial part that's holding main suspension.

Asking for guidance, recommended tools, brands, type of material for blades or bits and even best wishes
:biggrin:


Thanks so much!
 

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azswiss

Member
May 23, 2021
858
Tempe, AZ
Does the exposed portion of the bolt turn when you turn the head? If so, use a pry bar to apply downward pressure from the top as you gently back out the bolt.

If the top portion does not turn then you could try welding another bolt head-to-head which would give you some threads sticking out the bottom that could then be used as a puller by backing a nut against the frame member and some steel bar stock.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,224
Ottawa, ON
I had to torch the head of mine off and used a nut and bolt of the appropriate size. That weld nut is toast and can't be reused. Mind you, it was the front one and I was able to access the top side to put a normal nut and hold it with a wrench or ratchet. If it's a rear one, I don't know if it's accessible.
 

flyboy2610

Member
Aug 24, 2021
459
Lincoln, Ne.
I think you're going to have to find someone to torch that nut off. I would vote for welding a new nut up there, but space is pretty tight!
 

TollKeeper

Supporting Donor
Member
Dec 3, 2011
8,039
Brighton, CO
You can get in there with a stubby wrench. I have done it.. I dont remember the size..

Then once the stubby wrench is on the nut, use your impact gun to TIGHTEN the bolt, The bolt will suck the nut back down into the frame boss. Soak the bolt and nut with penetrating lube, and using a brass brush, make sure you brush off all the gunk, and goo from the threads. The nut is not welded, its just pressure forced into the frame (at least thats the way it is on both sides of my 04 Envoy, and the drivers side of my 06 Saab).

Once you get the bolt all tightened back down, FULLY TIGHTENED, just start working the bolt, you can even leave the stubby wrench on the nut. You will want that nut sucked back into the frame before you take the bolt out.

Once the bolt it out, the threads are already cleaned, and its just a matter of finishing the job you started.
 

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