xavierny25
Member
Just undo the links and zip tie the bar out of the way that way you can determine if that is the root cause.
SOLVED! Knocking in suspension. Help greatly appreciated
- Thread starter MBS1994
- Start date
Just undo the links and zip tie the bar out of the way that way you can determine if that is the root cause.
HARDTRAILZ
Moderator
- Nov 18, 2011
- 49,665
Definitely a good suggestion. There is no issue driving without them. I did it for years and am doing it currently. Just be a lil careful on big turns if you are not used to it.
xavierny25
Member
I learned that 1 from you
many, many moons ago. I even used it on the Voy and tbss to trace things down.I'll most definitely check but if feels down real low
Oh so maybe don't take his to heart and maybe just a few key points
I'm sure its probably a yes but I don't trust my self enough but that would clarify if its links and or bushings right? I'm gonna like around with a pry bar also
Does anyone think a good impact would help with all this? Just go over every single bolt I touched to make sure they are nice and tight? Or no?
xavierny25
Member
xavierny25
Member
If you put an impact to a nut or bolt that only need 33ft lbs it will go snap!
Best bet would be to back them out clean the thread and nut add some loctite and use a torque wrench. I keep that screen shot of the specs everytime I work on the front end. I've also got the spec's for the rear.
Ugh I'm getting so frustrated of this lol. Yes if I could have those torque specs on the rear also I'd appreciate it
xavierny25
Member
This is from tbssowners.com for the rear I don't think there's much if any difference between the full line of 360's. 
You will find the service manuals for all 360's and 370's in @Mooseman Signature, those things come in handy all the time for me.
Don't get yourself frustrated think of it as a learning curve! No one was born knowing this stuff we all just picked it up, some faster then others but we get with the program.
You will find the service manuals for all 360's and 370's in @Mooseman Signature, those things come in handy all the time for me.
Don't get yourself frustrated think of it as a learning curve! No one was born knowing this stuff we all just picked it up, some faster then others but we get with the program.
I'm just
This is from tbssowners.com for the rear I don't think there's much if any difference between the full line of 360's. View attachment 88935
You will find the service manuals for all 360's and 370's in @Mooseman Signature, those things come in handy all the time for me.
Don't get yourself frustrated think of it as a learning curve! No one was born knowing this stuff we all just picked it up, some faster then others but we get with the program.
[/QUO
I'm just ready to do the exhaust, some thing I've actually done before 😂 I'll definitely keep trying as time allows but might break soon and take it to a......mechanic....[/Q
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Mooseman
Moderator
As mentioned, it's a learning experience. We all started there. I had a helluva learning curve when I had my first TB and an engine swap right off the bat. And it was a basket case.
You could use an impact for removing and installing bolts and nuts but final torque has to be with the torque wrench.
You could use an impact for removing and installing bolts and nuts but final torque has to be with the torque wrench.
I think I was probably rushing or falling in the trap of tight is tight mindset. I honestly think my best bet is going to be to back off all bolts, clean threads, lock tight them, and torque spec it all. Guess its better than where I am at now.
Oh and on that topic, how am I supposed to torque the strut nut to torque spec if I have to have a allan key to hold it in place?
Sparky
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 12,927
Beats me. I just made sure that when the nut was snugged down the spring was compressed enough to put zero pressure on the upper mount (otherwise you might not be able to get the nut tightened down and you'll get a clunk there. Been there, done that too!). Then I gave it a final yank to make sure it was tight and left it at that.
For use with Metric Allen Fasteners to restrain them... $15.00 @ Amazon:
...while using a Right Angle Crow's Foot on your Torque Wrench for securing the Nut... $14.00 @ Amazon:
As long as the Torque Wrench-to-Crowsfoot relationships are Maintained at a Right Angle to one another...you need not be concerned with having to do any exotic "Torque Math" to approximate the use of a Normal Socket:
"If the Crows Foot is put on at a 90° angle and not at the end increasing the length, it will not effectively change the torque value. The overall length of the lever will be the same for the applied force."
...while using a Right Angle Crow's Foot on your Torque Wrench for securing the Nut... $14.00 @ Amazon:
As long as the Torque Wrench-to-Crowsfoot relationships are Maintained at a Right Angle to one another...you need not be concerned with having to do any exotic "Torque Math" to approximate the use of a Normal Socket:
"If the Crows Foot is put on at a 90° angle and not at the end increasing the length, it will not effectively change the torque value. The overall length of the lever will be the same for the applied force."
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Mooseman
Moderator
The torque wrench is more for critical components like axle nuts, ball joints, brake caliper bolts and especially internal engine components. For the strut mounts with the Allen keys, I'd just tighten it down until the stud stops turning on its own and then use the torque wrench. For end links, I use the breaker bar because those have to be over-tightened to prevent them from getting loose and egging out the mounting holes.
Sparky
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 12,927
Hmmmm anyone see a issue lol I think I found part of my problem
Attachments
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Mathoran
Member
- May 3, 2012
- 54
Don't think loosening the bottom will do anything. Probably have to take the strut/spring assembly apart again and re-assemble with the strut centered. I don't remember there being that much play in the upper mount though.
Just looked at mine. Stock mounts are different. They stick up through that big hole. Yours look different.
Just looked at mine. Stock mounts are different. They stick up through that big hole. Yours look different.
Mathoran
Member
- May 3, 2012
- 54
Looks like that kit replaces the upper mounts.
Install Instructions
seems like those black bushing in photo 3 and 4 should center the strut unless its supposed to change the geometry, but that's just a guess since I don't know what the inside of the spacers looks like.
Install Instructions
seems like those black bushing in photo 3 and 4 should center the strut unless its supposed to change the geometry, but that's just a guess since I don't know what the inside of the spacers looks like.
I was just looking at it on my break and that side is real loose up top. Think if I tighten it down it will straighten it out or do I need to pull it apart?
Just realised. I asked twice. My apologies. I'm just frustrated
Stupid question maybe but springs scare me. With that top bolt loose if I undo the arm from the strut is there a chance everything comes undone?
Never Remove that Restraining Nut from the Center Shaft of the Shock Absorber WITHOUT FIRST COMPRESSING AND RESTRAINING THE ALREADY COMPRESSED COIL SPRING...
You're being Wise when listening to your "Inner 6th Sense of Mechanical Caution". This is The Signature Thread on this Important Subject.. .and well worth your time to read; observing proper precautions to avoid experiencing serious injury or death as a result of not using the Right Tools and Following the Proper Procedures:
gmtnation.com
Image Courtesy @hockeyman... Notice that the 'Unknown Injured Party' either placed the Two Strut Compressors TOO CLOSE TO ONE ANOTHER on a single side... or they Slipped and Wound up suddenly being on the SAME SIDE... allowing the Compressed Spring to Explosively Release from their Control and Strike and Injure the Poor Fellow. Notice also that he was apparently using an Electric 1/2" Impact Gun... which is a SERIOUS NO-NO ... and for which he obviously Paid Dearly for his Mistake:
You're being Wise when listening to your "Inner 6th Sense of Mechanical Caution". This is The Signature Thread on this Important Subject.. .and well worth your time to read; observing proper precautions to avoid experiencing serious injury or death as a result of not using the Right Tools and Following the Proper Procedures:
Strut Spring Compressors
The local stores here no longer loan out spring compressors (liability?) so it looks like I'll have to buy a set. I've narrowed it down to two styles...
gmtnation.com
Image Courtesy @hockeyman... Notice that the 'Unknown Injured Party' either placed the Two Strut Compressors TOO CLOSE TO ONE ANOTHER on a single side... or they Slipped and Wound up suddenly being on the SAME SIDE... allowing the Compressed Spring to Explosively Release from their Control and Strike and Injure the Poor Fellow. Notice also that he was apparently using an Electric 1/2" Impact Gun... which is a SERIOUS NO-NO ... and for which he obviously Paid Dearly for his Mistake:
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Fixed. I didn't tighten the strut retaining nut enough, it ended up tilting back and was eating at my leveling kit. I appreciate every single person who made any comment or suggestion. I truly hope I can help one person as much as this community helped me!