SOLVED! Knocking in suspension. Help greatly appreciated

MBS1994

Original poster
Member
May 26, 2019
326
Colorado
Hello, first time here and I'm about at my breaking point. I did moog upper and lower ball joints, bilstein HD all around, rough country leveling kit, hotchkis rear sway bar, AC Delco I believe on the front sway bar links, bushings for both sway bars included in the hotchkis kit, and moog outer tie rods basically all at once. I now have a knock in my suspension over bumps on what feels like passenger side down low. I also have a squeek going over bumps. I can not figure it out so if anyone has any suggestions of maybe something to check or replace I would VERY MUCH appreciate it. Its a 06 lt trailblazer, 5.3, 4x4. THANK YOU
 

MBS1994

Original poster
Member
May 26, 2019
326
Colorado
Inner tie rods?? Have another look at the sway bar end links.
Thank you for the response. How do I check the links and inners? I know my old links I could move easily with my hands but the new ones don't have play. Is there another method?
 

xavierny25

Member
Mar 16, 2014
6,323
Staten Island, N.Y
EDIT:For the sway bar end links Just be sure they are good and tight.(I can't remember the torque spec) I know most guys here use thread locker and wrench them on tight. Also what side did you put the washers on? Be sure the holes aren't oval dew to excessive play.

EDIT: For the inner tie rods your going to have to take the outter of the control arm and check for looseness going into the rack.

@MBS1994
 

MBS1994

Original poster
Member
May 26, 2019
326
Colorado
EDIT:For the sway bar end links Just be sure they are good and tight.(I can't remember the torque spec) I know most guys here use thread locker and wrench them on tight. Also what side did you put the washers on? Be sure the holes aren't oval dew to excessive play.

EDIT: For the inner tie rods your going to have to take the outter of the control arm and check for looseness going into the rack.

@MBS1994
I appreciate it. I can't remember on the washer but I can check tomorrow. What side is it supposed to go on? Any idea on squeeking with it all being new? I hit a bump and since its been happening. All of it has less than 1k miles
 

xavierny25

Member
Mar 16, 2014
6,323
Staten Island, N.Y

Did you apply a little grease to the sway bar bushings? I didn't see it posted but did you replace the upper strut mounts?
 

MBS1994

Original poster
Member
May 26, 2019
326
Colorado

Did you apply a little grease to the sway bar bushings? I didn't see it posted but did you replace the upper strut mounts?
This is where I'm a CarTard I'm not sure on the strut mount, I've never messed with anything except bolt ons before this. I bought the rough country kit. All my strut assembly is the arm, spring, strut, and the puck top that came with it for the top

This is where I'm a CarTard I'm not sure on the strut mount, I've never messed with anything except bolt ons before this. I bought the rough country kit. All my strut assembly is the arm, spring, strut, and the puck top that came with it for the top
Oh and yes they were very coated but with sliding the bushings around the sway bar I lost a good amount but they were heavy coated.
 

xavierny25

Member
Mar 16, 2014
6,323
Staten Island, N.Y
Sorry I got a lot more questions then answer for you but did you flip and move the driver side upper control arm over to the passenger side and the same for the passenger side to the drivers side?
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
I assume you greased the new ball joints? Theyvarr only lightly greased during assembly and will squeak soon after install if you don't put a few pumps into them (been there done that).

Clunk - make sure those links are cranked way down. If they're not the stud can shift slightly in the bar ad make an annoying clunk (again, been there done that).
 

MBS1994

Original poster
Member
May 26, 2019
326
Colorado
Sorry I got a lot more questions then answer for you but did you flip and move the driver side upper control arm over to the passenger side and the same for the passenger side to the drivers side?
I did not because honestly I'm a scrony dude and didn't trust myself even though I have read to flip side, I'll do it because I'm sure after trial and error I'll need a alignment

I assume you greased the new ball joints? Theyvarr only lightly greased during assembly and will squeak soon after install if you don't put a few pumps into them (been there done that).

Clunk - make sure those links are cranked way down. If they're not the stud can shift slightly in the bar ad make an annoying clunk (again, been there done that).
I did not! I saw the grease so assumed but you know the saying. As far as links I did them as tight as I could but maybe I can loosen them and make sure its aligned right and crank them down again

I want to add I sincerely appreciate the suggestions from you two and anyone Else going forward
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
The washer on the studs for the end links should be on the back side, not under the nut. In other words, it should be on the stud before you insert it into the bracket or bar. I use a breaker bar to tighten them down with a good dose of red Loctite.
 
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xavierny25

Member
Mar 16, 2014
6,323
Staten Island, N.Y
I did not because honestly I'm a scrony dude and didn't trust myself even though I have read to flip side, I'll do it because I'm sure after trial and error I'll need a alignment
Swapping them over and around isn't difficult and should be done before going in for alignment when lifting the front. It's also a good time to check what condition the bushings on them are in.

Also since your lifted now did you look over the lower control arm bushings? Your now putting pressure on a different location of those bushing and if there weak, cracking or dried up you could be getting the squeak from there.
 

MBS1994

Original poster
Member
May 26, 2019
326
Colorado
The washer on the studs for the end links should be on the back side, not under the nut. In other words, it should be on the stud before you insert it into the bracket or bar. I use a breaker bar to tighten them down with a good dose of red Loctite.
Okay so one side the washer was wrong and the links seemed like they were under a lot of stress. I fixed the washer and took red locktight to it but still I have a knock, may be I also need to use a breaker bar. Guess I should check bushings tomorrow
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
Try prying up and down on the sway bar on both sides with a pry bar. You'll tell right away if something is loose with them.
 

MBS1994

Original poster
Member
May 26, 2019
326
Colorado
Swapping them over and around isn't difficult and should be done before going in for alignment when lifting the front. It's also a good time to check what condition the bushings on them are in.

Also since your lifted now did you look over the lower control arm bushings? Your now putting pressure on a different location of those bushing and if there weak, cracking or dried up you could be getting the squeak from there.
I addressed links today along with brakes, mine were grinding pretty bad but will check bushings tomorrow. If I flip the control arms will I need a alignment? Also by chance do you know if the stud with threads on the bottom of the lower ball joint is supposed to sit pretty close to the arm that connects to the upper ball joint or is it supposed to be gapped? Knocking is only on one side and they do both look the same but the gap worries me

Try prying up and down on the sway bar on both sides with a pry bar. You'll tell right away if something is loose with them.
If I do that and its tight does that mean I messed up the bushings? Assuming its even the sway bar at this point
 

mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
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The next time you are under the vehicle... is there any chance that you can take some images of what has been installed so far? Sometimes... seeing things the way that you can eyeball them will point things out easier if anything looks amiss.
 

MBS1994

Original poster
Member
May 26, 2019
326
Colorado
The next time you are under the vehicle... is there any chance that you can take some images of what has been installed so far? Sometimes... seeing things the way that you can eyeball them will point things out easier if anything looks amiss.
Absolutely, I'm at a loss and you guys are more knowledgeable. I'll post everything tomorrow.
 
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mrrsm

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This is a very interesting "On Topic" Video of a Young Man up in Canada working on his Trailblazer during the Cold Season and he pretty much addresses all of the Front and Rear Suspension Components while conducting a Lift with some inexpensive Chinese Suspension Gear he picked up off of eBay. But the fact is that he has to work on and around all of the Suspension components that you are presently concerned with.

He also touches upon many of the suggestions and observations made by @xavierny25. If nothing else...the VOP (Video Original Poster) goes a through very thorough explanation of the Trailblazer Suspension Geometry that will be worth your while viewing... so perhaps this Video will also be informative and helpful with some of your concerns :

[Mod edit: video removed as the VOP is promoting a dangerous lift product, aka: death lift]
 
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littleblazer

Member
Jul 6, 2014
9,265
For endlink noise I used to grab the roof rack and rock the truck left to right and you could hear it bang... maybe try that and feel around if the noise appears? The links you could rest your hand on and feel clunking on mine.

I also have a squeak on mine but it's the poly front swaybar bushings. May03lt has a video where he does front end work and in the after part where he drives over the bump I can actually hear the same squeak as mine lol.
 

mrrsm

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MBS1994

Original poster
Member
May 26, 2019
326
Colorado
All is passenger side. The first knocking you hear is the rear links its the squeek at the end, I can't duplicate the front knock
 

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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
The ball joints look bad to me. The upper looks like the boot is torn and the lower it's missing.
 
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MBS1994

Original poster
Member
May 26, 2019
326
Colorado
This is a very interesting "On Topic" Video of a Young Man up in Canada working on his Trailblazer during the Cold Season and he pretty much addresses all of the Front and Rear Suspension Components while conducting a Lift with some inexpensive Chinese Suspension Gear he picked up off of eBay. But the fact is that he has to work on and around all of the Suspension components that you are presently concerned with.

He also touches upon many of the suggestions and observations made by @xavierny25. If nothing else...the VOP (Video Original Poster) goes a through very thorough explanation of the Trailblazer Suspension Geometry that will be worth your while viewing... so perhaps this Video will also be informative and helpful with some of your concerns :

Thank you I've actually seen this one. I think I definitely need it flip the upper control arms

For endlink noise I used to grab the roof rack and rock the truck left to right and you could hear it bang... maybe try that and feel around if the noise appears? The links you could rest your hand on and feel clunking on mine.

I also have a squeak on mine but it's the poly front swaybar bushings. May03lt has a video where he does front end work and in the after part where he drives over the bump I can actually hear the same squeak as mine lol.
I tried your trick and I could hear a knock in the back but I already knew those were bad. All I was getting from the front was a squeek still. I believe I have poly fronts but it wasn't always doing it, just after I hit a gnarly pot hole.

The ball joints look bad to me. The upper looks like the boot is torn and the lower it's missing.
Both ball joints are brand new both sides. Its not torn its folded over pretty good and as far as the bottom it looks the same on both sides as far as the boot goes, I think its just pretty far up in that arm that connects to the upper ball joints.

Driver

Passenger upper a little closer. Hopefully a better picture

Lower both sides again plus a screen shot of the ball joints I used
 

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Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Grease those joints.
 
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TollKeeper

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Dec 3, 2011
8,047
Brighton, CO
The ball joints look bad to me. The upper looks like the boot is torn and the lower it's missing.

I agree. I am pretty sure that there is supposed to be a grease boot on them. Not sure why there isnt.
 

MBS1994

Original poster
Member
May 26, 2019
326
Colorado
So flipped the control arms and greased everything. Me being a terrible mechanic I either over did them/did them still compressed by the control arm and ripped a boot. Still squeezing and knocking, possibly ruined two ball joints. I hate myself right now
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
Contact Moog customer support. They might send you some boots.

As for those lowers, the boots don't look right to me. I've never seen them so short that they leave the stud exposed like that and usually extends all the way to the knuckle. You did put them on AFTER installing them right?
 

MBS1994

Original poster
Member
May 26, 2019
326
Colorado
Contact Moog customer support. They might send you some boots.

As for those lowers, the boots don't look right to me. I've never seen them so short that they leave the stud exposed like that and usually extends all the way to the knuckle. You did put them on AFTER installing them right?
Once I greased them did did expand some more. For ours do they really have a grease relief valve on them? I know my top left tore for sure but on the bottom after it expanded grease was pushing out from somewhere I couldn't see. Also sorry did I put what on after?
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
The boot should have been installed after the ball joint is pressed into the A-arm. It slips over the part of the ball joint that extends past the A-arm.

There is usually a relief at the end of the boot. Looks like a slot and is usually oriented away from the brake rotor.
 
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MBS1994

Original poster
Member
May 26, 2019
326
Colorado
The boot should have been installed after the ball joint is pressed into the A-arm. It slips over the part of the ball joint that extends past the A-arm.

There is usually a relief at the end of the boot. Looks like a slot and is usually oriented away from the brake rotor.
Is that something I have to buy separate? Here is what I bought and pictured everything included in the kit
 

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Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
That is a different design that I haven't seen before for this platform so ignore what we have been saying. It's all good.

If that's a Moog, they must have changed it. It used to have a boot like the uppers.
 

MBS1994

Original poster
Member
May 26, 2019
326
Colorado
That is a different design that I haven't seen before for this platform so ignore what we have been saying. It's all good.

If that's a Moog, they must have changed it. It used to have a boot like the uppers.
Was it for grease? Should I buy anything for that gap in case that's my knock? And sorry for all the questions I'm just slightly freaking out
 
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Mathoran

Member
May 3, 2012
54
Yeah i was shopping for Ball joints recently and they re-designed them to have that small boot. The gap looks weird but its normal with that new design. The boots on mine have a tiny hole to bleed out excess grease.

The only thing that looks odd to me is the upper ball joint. The boot seems a little mangled and at least on mine the shaft sticks out past the upper control arm a little bit. There was another member recently that changed the upper balljoints and his uppers had a little up/down play on the balljoint even with the pinch-bolt tightened to spec. Dunno if he ever resolved it.

Seems silly but also make sure strut bolts under the hood are all tight.
 

MBS1994

Original poster
Member
May 26, 2019
326
Colorado
Yeah i was shopping for Ball joints recently and they re-designed them to have that small boot. The gap looks weird but its normal with that new design. The boots on mine have a tiny hole to bleed out excess grease.

The only thing that looks odd to me is the upper ball joint. The boot seems a little mangled and at least on mine the shaft sticks out past the upper control arm a little bit. There was another member recently that changed the upper balljoints and his uppers had a little up/down play on the balljoint even with the pinch-bolt tightened to spec. Dunno if he ever resolved it.

Seems silly but also make sure strut bolts under the hood are all tight.
You wouldn't happen to have pictures of yours would you? Did you grease them before you put the control arms over them? Last question lol but I was thinking that also but was wondering if the strut bolt would stop needing a allen key once its tight enough or if you need to keep it in the whole time tightening?
 

mrrsm

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You're NOT Such a "Bad Mechanic"... A "Bad Mechanic" is one who can neither Recognize, nor Admit that he or she ...has Made Mistakes. Your Digital Images also do you Credit... You can see from the responses that so many additional observations from "The Collective Mechanical Mind" at GMTN can be brought to bear... now that all of that Suspension Hardware can be seen.

Great Job!
 

MBS1994

Original poster
Member
May 26, 2019
326
Colorado
If its still my links causing the knock could I just disconnect them and drive it as a test? Not sure if I would have to undo the entire bar or just links.
 

MBS1994

Original poster
Member
May 26, 2019
326
Colorado
You're NOT Such a "Bad Mechanic"... A "Bad Mechanic" is one who can neither Recognize, nor Admit that he or she ...has Made Mistakes. Your Digital Images also do you Credit... You can see from the responses that so many additional observations from "The Collective Mechanical Mind" at GMTN can be brought to bear... now that all of that Suspension Hardware can be seen.

Great Job!
I appreciate the comment and every piece of advice from every single post on here
 
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TollKeeper

Supporting Donor
Member
Dec 3, 2011
8,047
Brighton, CO
So do yourself a favor. There is that diagonal bar under your hood, one above the battery, and one above the air filter. Make sure that the 2 bolts for the one on the air filter are tight, and the 3 for the one at the battery are tight. I had a knocking for 6 months on mine last year. I replaced a lot of stuff trying to track it down. The bolt was loose for the one over my air filter, and every time my body flexed (going over whatever bump, or dip in the road), it would bang because the bolts were not tight.
 
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HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
This is a very interesting "On Topic" Video of a Young Man up in Canada working on his Trailblazer during the Cold Season and he pretty much addresses all of the Front and Rear Suspension Components while conducting a Lift with some inexpensive Chinese Suspension Gear he picked up off of eBay. But the fact is that he has to work on and around all of the Suspension components that you are presently concerned with.

He also touches upon many of the suggestions and observations made by @xavierny25. If nothing else...the VOP (Video Original Poster) goes a through very thorough explanation of the Trailblazer Suspension Geometry that will be worth your while viewing... so perhaps this Video will also be informative and helpful with some of your concerns :

HOLY SHIT... This is one of the videos that got this dangerous idiot banned from the facebook groups. This is the kit called the DEATH LIFT. He is not one that should be used as an example of anything but an uneducated and irresponsible internet poster that will literally get people hurt with his unfounded suggestions and advisement of truly dangerous components.
 
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