Is there any way to retain headlight on unlock w/ DRL killer?

[gpking]

I'm did the DIY DRL killer using a 4-pin relay and would like to know if there is any way to retain the function where the headlights come on when you unlock the vehicle? It looks weird when I hit unlock and the parking lights flash and only the reverse lights stay on.

I've read on various forums that there is a DRL killer method floating around that retains AHLs (and thus I suppose would retain headlights on unlock) but I haven't found any clear instructions on how to do this. After about an hour of searching, I haven't found anything that seems legitimate. All the threads I keep finding are from 2012 and everyone says "just buy the kit", but I did the DIY one.
I did my DRL killer following jetttstream's method if that helps.

If there are any simple diagrams like the one above, that would be really helpful, I'm a visual learner.

EDIT: It looks like someone posted the headlights on unlock are pulsed, which would require the cap mod to work. Am I SOL?

 

[gpking]

Furthering my confusion, I switched my wiring from the method pictured previously to this method. And my headlights completely don't work.
If I use the method pictured below and hook 85 into F9, it works.
With 85 in E7 it doesn't work.
Neither method has working AHLs.

 

[Blckshdw]

I'm not sure if there's an easy way to do this. As far as I know, the perimeter lighting signal is transmitted along the same wire as the DRL signal. So doing the DRL killer eliminates that option. I suppose, if you REALLY wanted this feature, you could alter your DRL killer to retain AHL feature (I've attached a copy of the PDF I got from Jetttstream for the instructions on that) tap into the outputs of the lock/unlock relays in the rear fuse block, attach a capacitor/resistor combo and some diodes so they don't back feed into each other, and tie that to the coil of the relay to trigger the auto lights. You'd have to do some math to determine what size capacitor and resistor you needed to dissipate at a rate long enough to keep the DRL killer relay engaged for a satisfactory time frame.

Although every time the locks engaged, your lights would come on. So every time you put the truck in gear, or shifted to park... Or went to drop someone off and hit your locks... May not be a big deal though.

Or you could just take out your DRL killer, and swap it for the cap mod, and call it a day.

 

[jimmyjam]

you'd use a relay to switch between the BCM headlight output (smoothed out with a cap) when IGN/ACC is off, and the output of the headlight indicator control relay pictured above when IGN/ACC is on

don't have time to draw a diagram but now that i've explained that, carlton should be able to draw it for you

 

[gpking]

The cap mod is so tempting but I think I would get annoyed having to always cancel the headlights during the day just for the sake of having the headlights come on w/ the locks.

The perimeter lights come on automatically at night, and that is good enough for me. I may switch things up to have AHLs again just to see if I like it. Thanks for the PDF.

What I still don't get is why my first method I posted works, but the second one doesn't. I imagine once I read through the PDF I can assemble a list of what wire does what and get myself straightened out.

EDIT: The PDF is the same as the second diagram I posted, which doesn't seem to work for some reason?

The way things are setup now, pin 30 connects to pink/white wire A5 on the harness side, 87 connects to pink/white wire A5 on the BCM side, 86 is spliced into white B6, and 85 is spliced into white F9 (doesn't work spliced into pink E7 like the diagram says).
I have no AHLs, but the DRLs are cancelled.

 

[Midnyteryder196]

Furthering my confusion, I switched my wiring from the method pictured previously to this method. And my headlights completely don't work.
If I use the method pictured below and hook 85 into F9, it works.
With 85 in E7 it doesn't work.
Neither method has working AHLs.

post-3034-139798279671.jpg

I have done this method.. And I do have AHL (auto head lamps).. The auto part functions just like it should.. Although I DO NOT have headlights when using lock/unlock but that's fine with me as I have hids and don't think them coming on for locking/unlocking is really necessary..

As far as the quad headlight, I think the diode mod in the front fuse block is soo much easier and more convenient.

 

[gpking]

I have done this method.. And I do have AHL (auto head lamps).. The auto part functions just like it should.. Although I DO NOT have headlights when using lock/unlock but that's fine with me as I have hids and don't think them coming on for locking/unlocking is really necessary..

As far as the quad headlight, I think the diode mod in the front fuse block is soo much easier and more convenient.

Odd. I'm really stumped as to why it doesn't work. It's all dependent on pin 85. When 85 is hooked up to E7 it just doesn't work.
I suppose maybe my splice wasn't making good contact? I might fool around with it some more today and see if I can get it working. I had to leave for work yesterday evening and wanted my lights to be working for when I came home at 1am.

As far as quad beams go, I wasn't familiar with the diode version. It seems a lot simpler/better than tearing up more wiring at the BCM.
I like the idea of having 8 white lights on at the same time.

 

[gpking]

Heck, I might even use a diode and run it from the high beam wire at the BCM (black/white I believe) to my auxiliary fog lights to get them all on the same boat.

 

[jimmyjam]

heres my idea



When the key is off or ACC, the headlamp signal is passed through. The PWM signal is evened out with a capacitor.

When the key is turned to IGN, the headlamp is controlled by the "headlight on indicator" which effectively kills the DRL

FYI 85/86 = coil, 30 = common, 87 = NO, 87A = NC

IGN circuit can be tapped under the fuse box, or if you don't want to mess with that you can just add-a-fuse. a 1a fuse should be used as a safety precaution

 

[gpking]

Brilliant. If I understand correctly this acts as a conditional DRL killer- it only kills the signal to the headlights when the vehicle is on, allowing the headlights on lock to operate.

Nobody addressed my comment earlier, aren't the lock lights pulsed like the DRLs? This doesn't concern me since I still have the stock bulbs. I'm just thinking about down the line where I may want LED headlights or for others who have LEDs or HIDs.

 

[Blckshdw]

Nobody addressed my comment earlier, aren't the lock lights pulsed like the DRLs? This

Yes they are, and Jimmy did, note the capacitor on the right side of the schematic.

 

[gpking]

Ah, forgive me, high school electronics class was the last time I saw the symbol for a capacitor.

Alright, so I'll start collecting parts this weekend and see if I can get this rigged up.
Thanks for the help guys!

 

[gpking]

Alright, so I just got everything hooked up aaaand... it doesn't work.
I have no DRLs or Lock Lights, my headlight indicator comes on randomly, manually activating the headlights doesn't work with the key off, the lights all come on when the ignition is on (like the cap mod I guess?) regardless of the ambient light.
Basically the lights don't work with the key off, they're permanently on with the key on.

I'm going to triple check all of my connections and see if any pins aren't making contact or something.

Key off


Key on

 

[gpking]

I've gone over everything again and again and can't find the problem. Ground is good. Power is good. Wires are making contact. Relays are clicking. I really don't get it.
I'm going to can this project for now and put everything back the way it worked. Lock lights really aren't worth this much time and money.

 

[Team Dougherty]

Here was my idea to disable the DRL's while keeping the perimiter lighing. I just could not find anyone to design and build the circuit.

http://gmtnation.com/forums/topic/3834-2002-envoy-headlight-switch/