Installation of All Leather Interior: 2000 Chevrolet Silverado

MRRSM

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#1
After a recent lengthy and uncomfortable drive in the “Double Aught” Silverado and realizing that the Prior Owner must have spent as much time in the Chow Line as he did in the Driver’s Seat of the Truck, I decided that replacing the flattened out Foam Cushion would be a MUST. While doing so… I also settled on removing the Old Blue Gray Fabric Interior and replacing it all with Real OEM Leather (Dark Charcoal Gray) as it seems like a very good investment for this otherwise Mint Old Truck as well.

I had these same said seats in my 2003 Silverado that I gifted to my Son over a year ago ...and Brother the comfort difference between these two is very noticeable. I’ll keep refreshing these images as the stuff comes in and I can get the Chariot(s) lifted out and the New Covers properly back in place... one side at a time though for the sake of the expense and the amount of work involved to sort of spread things out. Doing it this way makes much more sense than spending between $1,800.00 to $3,000.00 for any scarce Pre-Owned sets. FTN! In the mean time… Here are some of the latest of the most recent Flcikr Image Albums I have updated and made available for viewing so far:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/126111508@N07/albums/with/72157700786691181

I sourced the Console Cover here:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K0AF8HE/?tag=gmtnation-20

...and the Driver’s Side Foam Cushion came from here:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0751XKF6C/?tag=gmtnation-20

… and here is How to Install These Leather Seat Covers in your Full Size Chevrolet Vehicles:

Part 1

Part 2

Part 3

CENTERCONSOLE1.jpg DRIVERLEATHERSEATCOVERS2.jpg DRIVERLEATHERSEATCOVERS1.jpg
 
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MRRSM

MRRSM

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#2
I’m taking a break at this moment from working on the Extraction of the Driver’s Seat out of the “Double Aught” Silverado long enough to change my sweat-drenched “T” Shirt and to get some Cold Water. And after taking some images of the parts and tools involved in this present dilemma I faced and overcame, I’ve uploaded them to my ‘Flickr-Bucket’. I want to share some important information to make others aware of what happened… and what do to overcome the problem:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/126111508@N07

It’s NOT that I don’t have any experience with the R&R of the Seats with the Silverado Trucks. A few years ago, I purchased an expensive complete Center Console in the Black Graphite (Dark Gray) color to install in between the Seats of my then 2003 Chevrolet Silverado… only to discover that in order to do that task… you have to remove either the Driver or Passenger Seat entirely in order to get the console in place.

I recall at that time having to take a trip over to Autozone and seek to purchase a Full Set of “E” (for External) Torx Sockets...that turned out NOT to have all the Sizes I required. You will notice a few things in the attached images concerning the need to have an E-16 Size Socket for the Two Front E-Torx Nuts ...and an E-14 Size Socket for the Two Rear E-Torx Bolts. That all seemed straightforward enough that instead of actually being able to FIND those Odd Sockets… I opted to listen to the suggestion made Way Back When by @Mounce and @BlazingTrails to “...just use the right sized Standard or Metric Socket… It worked for me...”.

'Well…' I thought…'NUTS... if it was Good Enough for them… it should work just fine for me, too.' So I rattled around among the myriad places where my tool are scattered in my Garage to saddle up a Basic Kit.Then I dove in head first after sliding the Driver’s Seat forwards on the Dual Metal Tracks and plugged in a typical socket that seemed to get a good grip on those weird, rounded external flutes of the Rear Seat “E” Torx Bolts. Then, while using a fairly long handled 3/8” Drive Ratchet… I wailed away on trying to get those Bolts loose on both sides to move and coax them off their seats. I was trying like Hell and used an awful lot of my inordinately abundant muscular strength for a man of my years.

But… Nope. Nothing. No matter how much effort I put into trying ….both clockwise and counter-clockwise ...those two tiny-headed “E”-Torx Bolts refused to Budge even a Smidgen. Plan-B of course was for me to try a Ratcheting, 3/8” Breaker Bar next… and after a repeat performance with equal fervor… I began to feel something going wrong...when the Bar suddenly released with a loud “CRACK!” and thankfully… the only thing that had broken ...was the split upper edges of that Black Metal Impact Socket. I noticed that there was some slight damage to the 10.9 “Grade 8” Hard Steel Bolt Heads and this had me worried.

This resulted in my being “Hoisted on My Own Petard” as Shakespeare would have it ...after my constantly admonishing so many others to, “Always Use the Proper Tool...For The Proper Job.” So back I went into the garage and with more due diligence on that second go around… I located Two Full Set of “E” Torx Sockets and One Specialty “E”-16 version as well. THIS time… I opted to Up the Anti by switching to a very long 1/2” Breaker Bar along with a 3/8” to 1/2” Parkerized Black Steel Adapter and a Short Impact Wrench Quality Extension with a similar HQ Black Steel “E”-14 Torx Socket. With even more Herculean Effort… I finally managed to slowly and carefully back those two bolts off of their seats and finally removed them with Full Force for their entire lengths.

If you look over their Their Thread Lines in the linked images… you’ll notice how “shiny” those threads are from top to bottom which indicates that their Thread Holes were either drilled and formed with an under-sized Tap…. Or if NOT Cross-Threaded… GM must have used a Powerful Impact Gun on their assembly line back in 1999-2000 to drive those two back "E"-14 Torx Bolts in and created their own Threads in the process. In any case… be prepared to Fight with those Two Fasteners with considerable might ...and have the proper “E"-14 and “E”-16 E-Torx Bits on hand to ensure your success... WITHOUT Boogering Up the "E"s so bad that you simply cannot get them Out:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/126111508@N07
 
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MRRSM

MRRSM

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#3
Okay... Round Two Today... after wrapping myself up like an Astronaut in a Mueller Heavy Duty Quad Fold Back Brace... I pulled the 15 Amp Fuse for the Air Bag out from inside of the Indoor Driver Pillar Fuse Panel and then managed to get the single "Trigger Wire" that connects to Air Bag SIRS System directly under the Driver's Seat undone without accidentally setting them off.

With the "E" Torx Fasteners removed... I was able to lift the Driver's Seat out without any Fanfare and set it down inside the Garage. Tomorrow ... I'll elevate that seat to Chest Level so I can more easily wrestle with it while removing the Seat Base and Safety Belt along with the Plastic Side Fascia. After that, I'll unfasten whatever the rigging is down there that holds the Foam Cushion to the Seat Bottom. Next in line... I'll install the New Naked OEM Foam Seat Plank and then Gear Up to install the New Black Leather Cover and Hold Downs as per the Videos listed in Post #1. I'll do a separate Post concerning the similar Seat Back R&R procedures and shoot some New Images of both Procedures to Post back here.

The only thing I have a Question and a concern about right now though... is what the Hell either was... or should be... getting attached to that Small, Vertical Stud surrounded by a White Plastic Wide Grommet situated under the seat flooring area adjacent to the Front, Right Rail Stud Hold Down Position. I think that the minimal wiring needed for the Non-Electrical Non-Heated Seat in my Truck does not require it... but if anyone knows for certain and I am missing something that should be attached down there... Please Chime in here and edify me if you will. I took a few more images ...noting that Thanks to the 'Short Pockets' of the Prior Owner... I am $1.37 US Currency Richer after removing that seat than when I first started:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/126111508@N07/


"Every Drop Counts....!" Said the Lil Ol' Lady ...as she Piddled in the Ocean. :>)
 
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MRRSM

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#4
I’ve added many more “Step By Step” images following on with the Disassembly of the GM OEM Lower Seat Cushion Fabric Cover and Separating the Foam Seat Plank from the Underlying Metal Support Frame. The Foam simply conforms as slips on and off of the Frame to the the Shape of the Metal Skeleton underneath and is held fast by the "squeeze" after the installation of the Skin Tight Leather Seat Cover.

The attached images will also help with solving the “non-intuitive” problem of “How to Get That Damned Lumbar Star Adjustment Knob Removed” along with a lot of ‘finger-pointing’ in the imagery to point out certain aspects of the landscape we ordinarily never get to see under the Mechanical Version of this Seat to help with Hardware Removal:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/126111508@N07

I promised myself I would ‘adhere’ to the suggestions mentioned in Part 2 of The Seat Shop's "‘Food Giant’s" Instructions on being very careful to HOLD DOWN THE TOOTHY VELCRO STRAP when pulling up the Leather Seat Cover VELCRO Line to avoid tearing that strap out of the Foam Plank…. And I got a little too enthusiastic and impatient and managed to pull off about an 8” or so of the 'V' Strap loose from one of the Foam Insert Grooves… DAMMIT…! So it looks like I'll be following what he finishes discussing on that second of three Videos about “No Problem... We Do this Too...from time to time...”. So I ordered a can of 3M Professional Installer Spray Adhesive # 74. Apparently… many of the Folks in the Upholstery and Auto Seat Fabrication Industry like this stuff enough to recommend using it. Here is what Amazon sells:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0065DJNDG/?tag=elightbars-20

3MFOAMFASTSPRAYADHESIVE.jpg

Anyway… There will be a Slight Delay… while I wait for this Stuff to arrive:
 
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MRRSM

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#5
I meant to add this information in yesterday… .Here is another Good Video showing How To R&R The Seats in the Full Size Trucks and SUVs with an additional requirement in some cases for an “E” 20 Socket for Later Model Trucks and SUVs that emphasizes the subject of just how difficult getting out the Seat Hold Down Fasteners can get:


You know… The more I think about it… the more it occurs to me that Many Moons Ago… somewhere back in a Dark Boardroom of the GM Home Office… some Head GM Executive-Type probably pulled a Huge Bourbon Soaked Cigar out of his Humidor and after running it lovingly under his nose for a whiff of Black Tobacco … he poured himself a Double Scotch. And then after lighting up that Dog Rocket…. He slowly turned around and while exhaling a huge, noxious plume of Blue Smoke... he finally said what he was thinking out loud to a Board Room full of Bean Counters and Corporate Lawyers who'd been arguing with him incessantly for fifteen minutes about a problem they perceived as insolvent… and it probably happened something like THIS:

Okay Gentleman… I think we all get what you’re saying about the problems we’d have if those Bolts holding down the Truck Seats should accidentally work loose on too many of them… Customer Satisfaction would go down… and for you Legal Boys… I can see where we might have a problem if the damned seats accidentally ripped out of the floorboards. But look Guys… I see this situation as a chance for another revenue-making stream ...in fact ..an absolute OPPORTUNITY that will actually also entirely eliminate all of these issues."

"... SO… GENTLEMEN… WHAT IF WE MAKE IT ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO GET THOSE SEAT BOLTS OUT… PERIOD? That way… If the Customers want to replace or repair their Seats themselves… They have to come to the Dealerships to get the service done… and that gives all you Service Manager Boys the chance to get even more Service Work lined up when the Customers are happily drinking Cold Coffee in the Customer Lounges ...and while our SAE Mechanics are busily loosening all of those impacted “Jesus Nuts”. ...So Bravo Gentlemen… Problem Solved. Now Lets take a vote on it...”

DISCLAIMER**** ... and so it probably went on that way… PROBABLY... ****DISCLAIMER

Here is a How-To Video with some Good Advice on Removing The Lumbar Adjustment Knob:


And another Video for Repairing the Torn Seat Foam:


...and one last Video about Using The 3M 74 Spray Seat Foam Adhesive:

 
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LVJJJ

Active Member
#6
To each his own. We have a leather interior in our pristine '94 Suburban and absolutely hate it. The seats are way to hot in the summer, hate driving around with a sweaty back all day (even with a/c on). So we're ordering tailor made seat covers made from the same cloth material that was used by GM back in the '80's. Our 88 Suburban had that fabric and it was really comfortable. You can have our leather anytime, its light grey.
 
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MRRSM

MRRSM

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#7
Thanks for the generous offer... Perhaps there are some other Members who will take you up on the Light Gray Leather Seat Covers. I think that besides the vanity aspect of installing the All Dark Gray Leather in my also pristine Silverado... is the fact that I'm having a bit of 'separation anxiety' about losing my two 4th Gen Camaros and due to my ancient precipice... not realistically having enough time left to complete all the projects I envisioned doing when I first retired. From now on it has to be working on the '04 Engine for the 2002 Trailblazer and the 2000 Silverado as my DD to sort of fill in that emotional Mechanical Void.

Besides that... with a Damned Gammy Left Leg... sliding across sticking fabric seats to the get in and out of the Truck as I have been doing ...without almost having my Trousers pulled down each and every time I am getting seated and unseated properly ...is literally... One Big PITA. The presence of smooth, Roll and Tuck Leather makes this task so much easier. And of course... having a Brand New Foam cushion tucked underneath that Chariot will make any rare, long drives we take in the Machine much more pleasurable and comfortable. Thanks again for adding useful topical suggestions, observations and comments here, Brother. I do appreciate it.
 

LVJJJ

Active Member
#8
Actuually, you probably wouldn't want the driver's seat leather, its cracked and is starting to rip. The passenger seat is still pristine. A little explanation here, In 2016 we finally crawled out of the 2008 disaster where we had to sell everything Roadtrek motorhome & new Rainier TT. Used my beloved 65 Chevy Van for towing again (292-TH350 running gear) an old 85 Wilderness just to get back into RV'ing which we love (used the van in the '80's & early '90's to tow all over the western USA, 90,000 miles). Since van had no A/C, and we had some money, decided to buy a better TT and look for a '90's pre-serious computer Suburban. Found a like-new '94, always garaged, one-owner, driven 6,000 miles a year, excellent maintenance and look like nobody ever rode with the driver, so only wear on it was the driver's seat. You know the kind, jack and spare never used, ash trays never used, had all factory floor mats, rear ones never stepped on, fancy cassette tape deck that works (!) which I prefer over CD's anyway, etc. etc. Shines like new and interior perfect except the driver's seat. So I do need to get the seat re-upholstered but upholstery shop wants $700 to replace the leather, but I hate leather. So we are going to try Seatcovers Unlimited top of the line molded covers made out of the same material the '88 had.
 

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MRRSM

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#9
Interesting Story. Life should always be about the Journeys... and not the Destinations. And being comfortable while riding around in the things we love that make us all proud AND comfortable... is what makes it all ...so very worthwhile. When your OEM Fabric Seat Cover Installation is complete... please feel free to post some images of the work here, if you like. :>)

This Video from the Traveling Wilburys says it all:

 
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LVJJJ

Active Member
#10
Yep, its about the journey for me, I'm a wanderer, wish I could be on the road 24/7, but life doth get in the way. It looks like removing the seats from the '94 won't be nearly as complicated as the 2000 (that's why I like the old ones, have had the van since 1970, still runs and tows). Right now we've got upholstery swatches coming from the seat cover company to make sure it'll match.
 
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MRRSM

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#11
Okay… Most of the time… even with as much detail as I try to include in everything I work on… strictly because I can never know for certain which parts of the stories can be left out if any questions from like-minded Mechanics arise… most people would still consider that that amount of writing and thought being put in is too excessive...especially on work that would otherwise be considered Mundane Repairs. But NOT so when it comes to installing Leather Goods on the SUV and Full Sized Truck Seating.

The Dark Leather Seat Covers for the 1999-2002 Chevrolet Silverado are like NOTHING you have ever worked with… and the more I think about why a Complete Set of Ready-To-Install Leather Bucket Seats would cost around $3,000.00 … the more I can appreciate from this personal experience WHY they do: It’s the SHEER AMOUNT OF LABOR INVOLVED. I’m NOT Kidding…

In the first case… they have to create something of an OEM Quality ...made out of Custom Cut and Sewn Animal Skins as REAL Leather Goods in such a manner as to have them fit snugly (almost skin-tight) enough over so many varied angles and curves… and not to lose their “Face and Form” as one of William Shwenk Gilbert’s Characters put it in the G&S Play...“The H.M.S. Pinafore”… very soon after getting installed. Nobody wants to spend THAT much Money and wind up being thoroughly disappointed after doing so because such HQ Goods were never installed correctly.

In the second instance... these materials must bear up under conditions that include the constant changes of of extreme temperatures while handling the Weight and Motion of the Drivers and Passengers bouncing, tilting and gyrating around from the dynamics of Gravity, Inertia and Angular Momentum as these vehicles are either speeding up, slowing down and/or making harsh Left and Right Turns. In time… it is all of these dynamic things that conspire to pulverize and squash down the Custom Foam Plank Seat Cushions and make the Leather and Cloth Interiors gradually crack and decay in the process.

I should also mention that when you are young and relatively average in heights and weights… you may not notice these things as problems of comfort as much as you will if and when you get old enough to have need of them in pristine condition. But, if God-Willing ...you live Long and Happy Lives and are still able to actually drive your vehicles in a distant future threatened by AI… then you will come to understand this better. Right now… My Wife and I want to be able to make driving around in this Truck as pleasant an experience as possible. So perhaps trading up in this manner is less self-indulgent than you might imagine.

Now we come to The BEST Part… which actually emerged as the WORST Part...and that concerns the actual NEED TO KNOW HOW TO INSTALL THE LOWER LEATHER SEAT COVER ON MY 2000 CHEVROLET SILVERADO. When the Leather Goods I purchased from eBay from the U. S. Auto Seat Cover Company in Texas arrived… there were No Written Instructions ...Neither inside of the Shipping Box … Nor were there any such PDFs or Videos available anywhere On-Line Nor when visiting their Web Site. When I was making my first attempt to install the Cover… I got to the point where something had to be done with “Rolling and Turning over the Black Vinyl Border sewn into the Lower Skirt of the Cover" in order to get the leather stretched and permanently locked in place… and at that point… I was completely stumped.

It took a couple of eBay Messages to the eBay Seller Owner/Sales Rep “Matt” to have him send me the below Youtube Link...which I could NOT find on Youtube to finally get to see how this gets properly done. But without these arcane visual instructions… you won’t get to see that what the Installer is attempting as he “Huffs and Puffs” with MUCH DIFFICULTY when rolling that Vinyl Strip OVER THREE OR FOUR PUNCH SLOTS to hook that Black Vinyl Ring UPSIDE DOWN is nothing trivial. Watch the Video… and if you even think for a minute that you might eventually be buying from this vendor and following on with your own installation… DOWNLOAD AND SAVE THIS VIDEO… NOW:

How To Install the Dark Leather Lower Seat Cushion on the 1999-2002 Chevrolet Silverado:

 
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MRRSM

MRRSM

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#12
Okay... I was out in the Garage earlier this evening when Fed-Ex delivered a HUGE can of 3M Part# 74 Spray Adhesive that I needed to fix the Velcro Strip I FUBARed on the New Driver's Seat Foam Plank. I practiced with this stuff noting that the Spray Nozzle on the Can has a Small Rotating Black Plastic Spray Guide that is adjustable for the Width and the direction that the Spray Nozzle Spray can be concentrated. It is always a Good Idea to take a piece of Cardboard and practice achieving uniformity of how thick and how wide of a Spray Pattern you want to use... a 3" to 5" distance from the piece being Sprayed down is Optimal and spraying in Short, Controlled Bursts yielded the Best Results.

I Sprayed both the Underside of the Velcro and the Deep Trough or Groove that the Velcro was torn from and allowed them to dry enough to get quite a sticky Tack using the back of my knuckle to test the Cardboard section I sprayed at the very same time. Then I simply unfolded the Velcro Strip right back in place and used a tri-folded piece of cardboard to access that strip length previously sprayed and pressed down evenly and held it in place for around a minute or so. Since I wanted to do some work on removing the Upper Back Cloth Cover... I placed the Foam Plank back in the Original Box it came in to Cure Overnight and will attempt to install the New, Lower Cushion Leather Seat Cover on it and the Metal Sub-Frame tomorrow morning following the Queues shown by the Installed Video posted in the prior Message above.

I continued working on removing the Cloth Upper Seat Cover and this entailed using a Long Standard Screw Driver to pry apart the long Tongue-In-Groove Black Plastic Tang holding the Flap secured at the very bottom of the Upper Seat Back. I used a Grommet Removal Tool to remove the Two Small Black Plastic "Christmas Tree" Grommets on the bottom at either side of the Back and then dropped them into the Hardware Bag. You have to be careful NOT to work them out too vigorously as they reside inside of a Brown Cardboard Slab along the bottom... and being careful will avoid wallowing out those two holes a bit too much.

Next, I raised the Two Prong Post Head Rest, and after Prying loose the Two, Small rectangular Plastic Covers surrounding those adjustable Pins... I was then able to depress the two Spring-Loaded Push Bars to release the two side having "Guillotine Blades" securing it in place and then pulled the Head-Rest completely out of the top of the Chair Back.

Next... I erred by mistakenly popping the Dual Sided Plastic "Stop Button" that prevents the Safety Belt Metal Hasp from sliding too far downwards and getting out of reach and also by trying to slip the Hasp and belt free from the Slotted Plastic Adjustment Piece. None of these actions was actually necessary because as soon as you loosen the Plastic Fascia plunge bracket surrounding the place where the Belt disappears down inside of the Upper Seat Back Roller hidden under all that Cardboard... it was easy enough to simply turn all of these parts mounted on the belt to one side and then slip them through the Hole cut into the Seat Fabric.

The rest of the Cloth Cover removal procedures will absolutely require two things of anyone attempting to do this part: Great Patience... and Great Strength. I'm NOT kidding... if you do not have more than enough strength to fight with compressing the stiffer, curved Foam from the wider lower sides of the Seat Back and do so carefully while pressing DOWN on the inner hidden Velcro Straps while lifting the Cover Velcro side Free... then the only other way to get that Cover off would be to use some Large Cloth Scissors or a Linoleum Knife to carefully cut it up into sections and release the underlying Velcro Grooved connections to it... a little bit a time. You cannot just YANK it off the Chair Back.

Since I did NOT want to destroy the thing while doing the work, it took me quite a long time to pull up one side Inverting it INSIDE OUT...and then the other ...incrementally lifting the Cover free from the separated Velcro Straps. DO NOT JUST WAIL AWAY AND RISK TEARING UP THE SEAT BACK FOAM... THEY DO NOT SELL A FOAM REPLACEMENT FOR THAT PART OF THE DRIVER'S SEAT! Having a Lot of Patience and Taking Plenty of Breaks and Drinks of Cold Water will Help to Slow You Down. Again... if you are NOT very strong... make sure that you have a Friend to assist you that shares in your Goal of NOT being too Aggressive! Here is a Link to my "Flickr-Bucket" with the very latest Step By Step Tear Down Images noting that after the image of the 3M "74" Can of Spray Adhesive in a side-by-side size comparison with a can of PB Blaster... the rest of images start about half-way down the First Page of the Flickr Photo-Stream:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/126111508@N07/
 
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MRRSM

MRRSM

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#13
Okay… If you Follow EXACTLY what This Installer Does Here…


The Results You Get will Look EXACTLY Like THIS:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/126111508@N07/albums/72157702339632665/page2

U.S. Auto Seat Cover… FTW…!

More work is being done on Installing the Seat Back Leather Cover right now and time permitting... the completion images of the Finished Driver Chariot and Final Installation back inside of the 00' (Double Aught) Silverado will follow on later Today...
 
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#14
Okay… It has been a VERY long day for me when working on this Project...with a few fits and starts in between… but at the end of all of this concentration to details and strenuous labor… The Final Results are Absolutely STUNNING! I wound up using all three of these Youtube Videos from “The Seat Shop” for Guidance and I make mention here that the only portion of this Dark Gray Leather Seat Cover Upgrade… was their 99-02 CUSTOM OEM FOAM DRIVER’S SEAT CUSHION. The “Leather Goods” for the Driver’s Seat all came from U.S Auto Seat Cover. Between the two Vendors… I managed to completely overhaul “The Driver’s Side Comfort Zone” to a Fair-Thee-Well. I could NOT be happier with the results... if I was TWINS! The Quality and Fit of the Dark Gray Leather is AMAZING!

A few things are worth mentioning here for anyone interested in refurbishing BOTH sides of the car should make the Leather Goods Purchase as Close to each other as possible so you don’t wind up with any variation in Colors or Textures between the Left and Right Seats. Also… before you begin the final assembly… make a quick review of either my linked photos or the ones that YOU should also take for the sake of having any idiosyncrasies not covered in this Thread.

There are certain things that have to be Installed BEFORE you attempt to attach the New Lower Cushion and Frame to the Main Seat and Back… such as the Driver’s Side Plastic Fascia AFTER you make the slit in the lower left side of the under edge of the Leather Seat Cushion so you can pass the Seat Belt Eye Hook and Bolt it Down Tight. I took plenty of extra close up images to illustrate this issue. Make certain to route your Electric Harness and the Manual Lumbar Cable carefully with Clear Zip Ties (...so you can SEE Them). Keep the "SHARPS" AWAY FROM THE LEATHER! Close the Scissors and Knives and Box Cutters and keep them at a distance until needed. Cut your entry holes as needed 1/2 the Actual Size you THINK you need... you can always make adjustments on the fly... but if you get too enthusiastic with those "Edged Weapons" there is an AWFUL lot of Beauty to be Destroyed and Money Wasted if you Get Careless!

Watch out that you don’t Heft the Seat around and accidentally cut or pull out any wires/harnesses or bend the Lumbar Adjustment Cable Housing all out of Whack as you will have to move all of these items around and literally like playing “Musical Chairs” while all of these very physical actions are going on. Download and Save all of the Videos and PDFs you might need as you do your research… as You WILL Need Them. I have to call the Color of these Leather Seat Covers “Christian Bale ‘Bat Man Gray”… or I may have to call this “Capote Gray” in the future as everyone who knows the Man ...will understand and appreciate what this reference means.... :>)

Its late… and its time for me to get a shower, some food and get into some clean Jams and elevate my Damned Left Leg as I think I went a “Bridge Too Far” perhaps in my focus to get this Driver’s Chariot completed. With a Good Night’s Sleep ...I should be fit as a fiddle come morning and ready to lift and install the Seat into the Silverado. After its Bolted Down and Buttoned Up... I think I’m just going to get in the Truck and sit there quietly and enjoy the sensation for a few minutes. Tonight ...I’ve decided to use the same two vendors and order everything to match up for the Passenger Side Seat…. And start the whole process over again in about a week. At least while I am doing this necessary “Feng Shui” R&R to balance the interior Upgrades… I can still drive the Truck around as needed. This link to my "Flickr-Bucket" shows the latest of the Final Assembly images:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/126111508@N07

GM Full Size Truck Leather Seat Cover Installation:

Part 1 Leather Top Cover Installation

Part 2 Leather Top Cover Installation

Part 3 Involves finishing the Lower Seat Section to the Chariot to Finish the Job:
 
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MRRSM

MRRSM

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#15
I had some time to think about any "Loose Ends" that still need attention and a few came to mind that are worth mentioning. If you review the Dis-Assembly-Re-Assembly Images that show the two small holes in the very top of the Old Blue Fabric Seat Covers... you'll notice that they are NOT Pre-Cut into the Brand New Dark Gray Leather Upper (Top) Seat Cover.

Well... I still have to find the hollow centers of those two rectangular "Guillotine Blade" Head Rest Lock Down fixtures and cut in some very small holes... just barely large enough to get the first digit of my index finger into and then stretch those two openings over the Head Rest Locks. After that I can re-install their two small Plastic Cover Fascia Plates with the Hollow Pin opening sides positioned to allow the Head Rest to be removed by depressing those two Locks and then completely pulling out the Head Rest.

Next... if you recall... I made the mistake of un-snapping that Small, Gray Plastic Seat Belt Retainer Button while thinking I would have to slide off all of the external Plastic Belt Cover HW that fits into the Upper Left Seat as a Seat Belt Guide. So I checked on eBay and found several that seemed suitable and ordered them all since I still have to R&R The Passenger Seat when the Leather Goods come. The attached images will make you wonder what all the fuss is about when you MUST have that Damned Button in place... or you would never be able to set up the Locking Tang on the Belt into the Buckle... for lack of being able to find it!

SEATBELTBUTTON1.jpg SEATBELTBUTTON2.jpg SEATBELTBUTTON.jpg
 
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#16
I woke up thinking that the Bone Deep Soreness I was feeling would be the only impediment to my getting up and finding the motivation to carry the Driver’s Seat out of the Garage and set down inside the Truck to be fastened down. I was not surprised by how really achy and tired I was after yesterday’s considerable physical activities. But instead… I’ve actually got a more substantial reason NOT to do that "Seat Insertion" task NEXT.

It occurred to me that it might be one Helluva lot easier to install the Dark Gray Center Console lid First... as a necessary NEXT Step... WITHOUT having the New Leather Covered Driver’s Seat “sitting” there, right in the way. I’m not sure just how many “UMS” (Unnecessary Mechanical Shenanigans) are involved yet in extracting the Old Blue Fabric Cover via pulling loose the in-dwelling, weird Pin Rod, Bracket and Springs with the goal of doing a Complete Make-Over of the insides of an otherwise, decent looking (18) Year Old Silverado… But there is no doubt that it might also mean that I will have to get very uncomfortable doing the job.

So... Some Food for Thought:

I don’t care how experienced you are as a Mechanic… If you can find the means of doing repairs in a Comfortable Position… You just KNOW that you will do a MUCH better job… with MUCH less opportunity for making errors or Getting Yourself Hurt because you otherwise might have to endure the Torture involved of having to Kneel Down on a gritty, hard surface that feels like the “Iron Maiden” from the Spanish Inquisition... while you’re bent over at the waist using Muscles you never knew you had.

But… Working like this as a ‘Necessary Agony’ for whatever the amount of time it takes to finish the job will become an Absolute Joy if instead… you are kneeling down on a Double Layer of those Harbor Freight Puzzle Floor Mats custom cut down to fit the Work Zone. When you are not distracted by discomfort… your chances of doing a complete job with fewer mistakes in judgment is a happy by-product of COMFORT and improved endurance.

And so ...taking a small Throw Pillow and wrapping it up in a Small Plastic Garbage Bag secured with some Duct Tape to kneel down on ...will not threaten your Manhood by making your life so much easier when performing repairs that are often akin to Working inside of a Phone Booth… while performing a Hand Stand. Taking Control of your Work Environment for the sake of COMFORT before you even Start a Job… is the only way to go!

So here are a few images of what the New Center Console Cover looks like… Not Too Bad ...for only $40.00:

CENTERCONSOLE1.jpg

CENTERCONSOLE2.jpg
 
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MRRSM

MRRSM

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#17
Okay… After the various struggles involving this more than ambitious undertaking… Tonight ...I was FINALLY able to Enjoy…. “The JAM ...In MY JELLY ROLL…!” and get to experience what I have been anticipating since the thought occurred to me to take on this Project. I only have a few more important R&R Observations to mention before allowing the Videos and my Images the chance to do a better job:

You should double check that, in addition to using a “Figure 8” Technique of first ...lacing a White Zip Tie through and around the Razor-Sharp Stamped Metal areas to secure the Wire Harness(es)... You should do likewise with the Cable Housing for the Manual Lumbar Cable. The “Figure 8” Method I used prevents securing the Insulated Wire Harness from making motion... or direct contact with ANY Metal Surfaces.

This process is achieved by First loosely lacing a Zip Tie to the Metal Chassis… and then using a second Zip Tie… Loop the lead end around the First Zip Tie and THEN around the Cable or Harness… and gradually draw their independent loose ends tighter until everything cinches together nice and snug and clip the Loose Ends. In this manner… they WILL stay in place and NOT get cut to shreds during wear, tear and friction that happens over time.

Next… Before you carry the Seat out of the Garage and set it down in the waiting open space on the Driver (or Passenger) sides of the Truck…. Make sure to Tilt the Chariot on its side and while lifting upwards on the Seat Slide Release bar underneath the Seat… Manually Force the Two Independent Sliding Tracks as FAR to the Rear as possible and then Lift up on that Release Bar to ensure they both lock evenly with once another… and by doing so… expose the Hold Down Brackets Holes as well. Then use a Plastic Mallet to Tap the ends of the two metal tracks towards the Front to ensure they both “lock” firmly in place.

When you pick up the seat… carry it by the Outer facing Side and NOT from the Front and avoid picking it up using that flimsy Black Plastic and Metal Release Bar underneath the Front of the Seat. After setting the Chariot down in the Free Space in the Truck, Lift the Outside Seat Back Adjustment Lever to release the Upper Back of the Seat and lay it as far forward as it will possibly move. Then align the Holes and Guide Pins over the Two Rear Seat Seat Track Mounting Holes in the Floor Board and insert the Twin “E” 14 Torx Fasteners.

Tighten them down... very snug… but wait just long enough to lift that Slide Release Handle underneath...and move the Seat far enough to the rear to confirm that the Two Front Seat Mounting Bracket Holes are over their alignment pegs. Then… slide the Seat forwards once more and use a Ratcheting Breaker Bar to apply an ample amount of force to really secure both Rear 10.9 “Grade 8” “E” 14 Torx Bolts.

Finally… take your Telescoping Magnet and place the ”E” 16 Torx Nuts upside down one at a time and then Guide those Nuts over either side of the Two Seat Bracket Mounting Studs at the front Left and Right positions. If you just casually try to insert them ….the outer Track has a Blind Hole in the Upper Left Seat Slide Frame ...and if you accidentally drop it down the hole...it WILL turn sideways and no amount of fiddling with your fingers is going to coax it back out. At that point… you will need to get a Telescoping Magnet anyway for the required Rescue from this situation… so you might as well start by using it to your best advantage and finish the Installation without further delay.

The last thing to do after cycling the Chariot Seat Back and Forth a few times… is to connect the Under-Seat SIRS and Air Bag Harness Connector to the Body Harness. When you are satisfied that the connector is “Good and Married” ...there are two Thin Metal Spring Clips that will allow you to lift and array the Wire Harness up to the upper Metal Sub-Frame and secure the loose harness in such a way that they are unlikely to get caught either by adjusting the seat positions time and again… or get snagged or mixed up with anything thrown underneath that narrow space beneath the Driver.

Well… Other than Re-Installing the (15) Amp Fuse for the Air Bag back into its slots in the Driver Side Pillar Fuse Box .and then Starting the Truck for a few minutes to re-charge the Battery after having both doors on the Truck Open All Day AN Night... That pretty much tells the whole story… and it all comes down with a very happy ending for me, too.

By Sundown today… I finally had the chance to hoist my “TOA” (Tired, Old A**) up into that “Leather EZ Chair”...and sit quietely for a "Few Moments of ZEN" and appreciate the Fruits of All My Labors. The Videos and the Links to my “Flickr-Bucket” for all of the Images covering this Job might prove useful to anyone possessing a Full Size Truck or SUV… Some Extra “Jingle” Burning a Hole in their Pockets...and a Desire not only to Ride in Much Improved Ease and Comfort… but also to do the one very thing that will seriously revitalize and improve the driving experience and appearance of your Truck… AND… perhaps do more than anything else to increase the Re-Sale or Trade-In Value of your Ride. :>)

--==Enjoy!=--

The Updated and Last Images of the Driver’s Side OEM Dark Gray Leather Seat Cover and Foam Seat Cushion Upgrade:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/126111508@N07

How to R&R the Center Console on the 2000 Chevrolet Silverado (and other Vehicles):



How to Repair a Center Console Release Mechanism that will NOT Budge:

 
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MRRSM

MRRSM

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#18
The Passenger Side Upper and Lower Seat "Dark Gray Leather Goods" Seat Covers arrived with remarkable speed in Shipping & Handling from the U.S. Auto Seat Cover eBay Vendor this afternoon. I took a few "snaps" to confirm that they were identical in Color and Quality to the Driver's Side of the Silverado and I note with no small aggravation that my Pictures Do NOT do these covers any real justice ...as they seem to come out looking Bluish-Gray instead of the showing how Rich, Dark and Charcoal Gray they REALLY look in person.

I also note that the OEM Seat Belt Stop Buttons also came in and so there are some images that display them and the Neat Instructions that came with the "Non-Removable" OEM Single Install kit as well... versus the other Bag full of Re-Usable Ones. Now all I need is enough time to recover from the recent days of soreness from the labor that was called for completing the Driver's Side.

Who Knew that the Best Technique for the Assembly of these Two Seat Belt Button Halves is to "Place One Copper Penny on Either Side of the Two Button Halves with the Nylon Belt Sandwiched in between... and then SQUEEZE it all together with a Pair of Pliers...? Now ...You Are DONE!" :>)

I am also waiting for the arrival of a Better Quality Upper Jump Seat Back with a Dark Leather Cover that I had to order as well...since that @%$8?/ Console Release Button would NOT release after being opened for the replacement of the lid I succeeded with as well. I'm sorry... But If I EVER run into the GM Engineer that designed that Stupid Thing... I'm going to make him Wish that his Father...NEVER Met his Mother!

Anyways... Here is where to observe what these covers look like before I have to wrangle them in place on the Passenger Seat:

https://flic.kr/p/2cjSpFD
https://flic.kr/p/2cjSpD4
https://www.flickr.com/photos/126111508@N07
 
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MRRSM

MRRSM

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#19
Okay… The Replacement Center Console - Jump Seat Back Rest Section I lucked out finding on eBay arrived and upon a very close inspection of this Unit… I find that this thing is PERFECT… and these images and observations confirm that indeed, it is a DBOM (Dead Balls On Match) to the High End OEM Factory Leather:

(1) It has an Identical OEM Color Match of Dark Gray Material to match the other Interior Carpet and Decor.

(2) It came with a Flawless, Genuine, Padded, Dark Gray Leather Console Lid that matches the Seat Cover Leather.

(3) There are No Cigarette Burns (or despicable odors) No Cuts, Tears or Damage to ANY Surface Areas.

(4) The Lid Hinges and MOST IMPORTANTLY The Lid Lock-Release WORKS PERFECTLY…!

These attached images bear the proof of its excellent condition...and in my opinion, it was well worth spending the $125.00 to get it... after viewing a whole Rat’s Nest of other offers that were WAY more expensive and in much less complete condition and/or having decent enough looking appearances that I would NEVER have considered getting:


https://flic.kr/p/2coidoR
https://www.flickr.com/photos/126111508@N07
 
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MRRSM

MRRSM

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#20
Okay… I worked on the Passenger Side Seat R&R and Re-Build for the last two days and other than what I’ll cover here as “New” information or necessary tactics unique to this situation… all of the forgoing Instructions and Observations apply as it is just a “Mirror<-rorriM” situation. The most significant thing to cover has to do with the problem of putting New Leather Seat Covers over Old Foam Lower Seat Cushions that have aged over (18) Eighteen Years of being Squashed and Worn Down...is a Very Bad Idea. I tried this out first...only because I could not at first locate any New OEM Durafoam Seat Cushions for the Passenger Side of the 2000 Silverado.

So this afternoon after struggling to get all of the “Gig Lines” to shape up and have that Old Cushion come out as Nice and Plump and Skin Tight with the New Dark Gray Leather Seat covers over a Brand New Durafoma replacement that presently adorn Driver’s Side Seat…. Nope…. No Soap. The Leather seams were easily misaligned and the appearance was Wrinkled and a Bit Baggy in places….not to mention that for some reason… the seat cushion rested on the Metal sub-Frame somewhat akimbo and oddly angled… like a picture frame hanging on the wall that is tilted just enough to be irritating to look at without creating the overwhelming impulse to move it around and adjust it to make it just right. This is somewhat akin to “Putting a $50.00 Saddle...on a $2.00 Horse...”. So yes… that is preciselyy what this sensation feels like.

In any case… for the first of the last two days … I was too busy working on the rest of the Chariot to dwell on that one issue. Removing the Four “E” Torx Fasteners to relieve the Seat from its Death Grip on the Passenger Side Floor Board was decidedly easier this time and I reflected that without having ANY Wiring Harnesses to tangle with… getting that Right Side Chariot out of the Truck presented with little problems. After removing the Passenger Seat… I likewise faithfully recorded the R&R of the Old Console that sported New Top Lid that refused to work and unlatch… with the New One, recently acquired on eBay as a necessary replacement. Due to all of the prior recent experience with doing THAT exercise, it proceeded along in a Glass Smooth manner...with no other impediments.

Late last night… I decided to continue searching for a suitable Durafoam Plank Seat Cushion out of frustration over the fact that the Driver’s Side Cushions are as ubiquitous and as available as Cumulus Clouds. I finally tried checking out the various General Motors “Parts-Direct” Sites and while all but a few listed the Passenger Seat Cushion along with an abundance of other seat components… I suspect that since all Aerated Foam Objects shaped purposely for these kinds of repairs will soon turn a Mustard Yellow in the presence of Ozone and other Atmospheric Chemistry and become brittle with age over enough time while just sitting in hot warehouses... it would make no sense tp stockpile them for periods longer than perhaps 5 to10 Years. Here is what I ordered:

200SILVERADOPASNGERSEATCUSHION.jpg

So the Caveat they included on all of their Web Sites' Sales Pages all indicate (n Paraphrase) that “While the Catalog still has an on-line listing... Due to the nature of these products and the age of certain vehicles… we may no longer have certain items For Sale. If this turns out to be the case... W e will Re-Fund the amount of purchase and shipping and send an alert by Email”… So I will see if this New Cushion arrives within 3-5 Days and act accordingly if it does not. Here are the latest images of these labors:

Pages 3 and 4 have the Most Current Images:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/126111508@N07/albums/72157702339632665
 
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MRRSM

MRRSM

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#21
Alright… I am VERY Happy to report that having finally received the Black Foam Seat Cushion Plank from GM Parts Direct… (...after paying expensive S&H Charges, DAMMIT) that everything went perfectly back together to complete the Assembly of the Passenger Side Seat. And NOW my India Blue “Double Aught” Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Interior is completely Decked Out in matching Dark Gray Leather.

The final 57 Photos show the actions needed to get this job done...with the Final Touches including making VERY SMALL HOLES in the Upper Back Rest Leather Seat Cover over the centers of the four Rectangular Head Rest Post Locks on both seats to stretch the leather around those items and finish installing their four Plastic Fascia Caps to complete the task of plugging in those Head Rest Posts. With the Passenger Seat now solidly Bolted Down inside of the vehicle… this Project is COMPLETE

However… it bears mentioning a Very Stern Warning now to all and anyone doing this job to actually “Frisk” any of your friends who might be hanging around who may be careless, thoughtless and as Drunk as Davey’s Sow after Eating Your Pizza and Drinking Your Beer, supposedly there to celebrate your magnificent work ….by accidentally RUINING and FUBARing up those New Leather Seat Covers after jumping into the Truck… with a few Screwdrivers sticking out of his rear Pants Pockets… Poking Holes in the Leather and basically taking a Dump on your Work!

THIS is the THE Murphy that IS just WAITING to happen if YOU do not Lay Down The Law! Keep Your Wits About You… and Don’t Suffer Any Fools… and this New Leather Look will stay that way for many years to come. Check out Page (4) of this Link for the Final Assembly Images:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/126111508@N07/albums/72157702339632665/page4
 

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