In the middle of MarkMc liftmeister 3" custom lift

Big B Jantzen

Original poster
Member
Aug 9, 2016
58
Enid, OK
2003 GMC Envoy XL - Truck was in bad need of some lower control arms, so I decided to ping Mark and see if I could get a lift kit as I have been bottoming out this year at Amelia Island. Never get stuck with my 4x4 but this year twice already!! GGrrrhhhh. (lack of rain and deep dry ruts)

Immediate response from Mark, ordered and got an immediate call with shipping details. This guy is awesome and quickly answers my emails. The product is top notch gold standard, this is well made, not a knock off. Custom!!

I will say the first front wheel go around was a bear!!! Remember I am doing lower control arms to, so complete disassemble of old rusty parts. I got it back together and the wheel is out, but I did not line up shock well though I was able to force it in. Second front was so much easier, just knowing what goes into it and what to expect. This time I marked well and got strut back together perfectly.

I just want to say Thank you to all of you on here, the 3 sites have been invaluable. THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!

Still have to tighten down second side and do the back, but it will be done soon and I will post pics of the build. Looks good and with new control arms I am getting a ton of lift!!!
 

SnowBlazer

Member
Jun 9, 2014
5,775
Colorado Springs
I have his old 2.5" lift that he sold me for $125 or so last year. I'm also running his spacers as I got some junky ones that caused uneven wear on my tires and caused my wheel to shake vigorously. Nonetheless he's a great guy, with great products. I really want his body lift but I'm leaving for the Air Force next month so that's on hold for the time being.
 
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HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
I remember when I stuck the real "custom" 3 inch prototype on the truck then took it for a beating at Badlands to test it. Good stuff.

Post up pics...everyone likes pics...
 
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Big B Jantzen

Original poster
Member
Aug 9, 2016
58
Enid, OK
The front looks real nice!!!
I can tell my aligment is way off. Trying to post pics and I did for a sec but duplicated a bunch of times, so deleted and reposting in a sec.

It's real high in front now, doing back tonight and hopefully alignment.
 
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HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
Definitely needs aligned. You can get it close yourself though if needed.
 

Big B Jantzen

Original poster
Member
Aug 9, 2016
58
Enid, OK
IMG_4285.JPG IMG_4287.JPG IMG_4290.JPG IMG_4275.JPG
 

Big B Jantzen

Original poster
Member
Aug 9, 2016
58
Enid, OK
Definitely needs aligned. You can get it close yourself though if needed.
Oh really? Cool I might need to. Is that just adjusting the tie rod til they look straight?
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
There is some good info on it on OffroadTB.com
 
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Big B Jantzen

Original poster
Member
Aug 9, 2016
58
Enid, OK
Well, not finding much on 3rd site. But reading is scaring me a little LOL New clamps and CV Boots? Hubs wearing out? New Pan Hard Bar for rear alignment? Too scary to think all the work I have put in thus far...

Maybe I should take a chill pill :chillpill::bonk:
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
Or researched before starting. Not all are necessary, but some are good ideas.

I never clamped my stock boots, but did on one of the aftermarkets.

I dont have any real premature hub wear I can prove. I made it to about 120K miles on stock with 30K lifted.

The alignment is something many do not do, but i did. There is also a bracket you can buy now instead.

Flipping control arms, routing or extending brakelines, bolt joint wear, tie rod wear, all can be looked into as well.

Hope you did get the longer rear shocks already.
 
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Big B Jantzen

Original poster
Member
Aug 9, 2016
58
Enid, OK
Or researched before starting. Not all are necessary, but some are good ideas.

I never clamped my stock boots, but did on one of the aftermarkets.

I dont have any real premature hub wear I can prove. I made it to about 120K miles on stock with 30K lifted.

The alignment is something many do not do, but i did. There is also a bracket you can buy now instead.

Flipping control arms, routing or extending brakelines, bolt joint wear, tie rod wear, all can be looked into as well.

Hope you did get the longer rear shocks already.

Oh crap No I didn't. I have zone rewards waiting. Does Autozone carry them as you say "longer" shocks??.. They carry the Gabriel brand...

I see they have Bilstein, but have to order...

OK I see threads on it. Says I don't need unless big articulation offroad. All I am doing is traversing deep beach sand. I am in flat florida.
 
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HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
Oh crap No I didn't. I have zone rewards waiting. Does Autozone carry them as you say "longer" shocks??.. They carry the Gabriel brand...

Tahoe shocks are what most of us run. They are a bit longer. Several cheap options for the typical white body shocks in your choice of brand. I just did the Bilstein 5125 and they are miles above in performance. A big surprise to me honestly.

Need something that is about 15-16 inch collapsed and 26-ish extended.


EDIT-- You may be ok, but the shocks will damn near be fully extended at resting height. With soft sand and tires going up and down...You will top them out repeatedly and likely cause premature failure
 
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fletch09

Member
Nov 20, 2011
1,982
Oh crap No I didn't. I have zone rewards waiting. Does Autozone carry them as you say "longer" shocks??.. They carry the Gabriel brand...

when i had Mark's 3" lift i found that going some over bumps, my stock shocks would over extend causing noise. i went w/ BDS. there are other brands out there.
you need a shock that is is long enough for a 2" rear lift. check out BDS web sight, they may state the overall length of the shock.
 
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Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
I ran stock length rear shocks, it was OK and I never bothered changing them, but as mentioned yes you will wear them faster and I wouldn't be surprised if topping them out every so often led to the one blowing a seal eventually.

You'll be fine with stock length for now if you want to wait until you get some good ones. Those rears are quick and easy to swap out anyway.
 
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Big B Jantzen

Original poster
Member
Aug 9, 2016
58
Enid, OK
Thanks guys!!! I will get those in the near future. I finished last night! I am stoked!!! She sits pretty!! I never want to see another sway link bolt in my life!!! I hate them!!! Will deffinately get the right tools if I ever do again!!!

To get enough drop on axle I had to remove sway links, that inside bolt all rusted is Frackin crazy!!!

Here is a pic late last night, Yes I need to loose running boards LOL!!! Going today to pick it up and get alignment right away before driving.

Thank you all again for allowing me to chat about this project and ideas on countless others.after.JPG
 

Big B Jantzen

Original poster
Member
Aug 9, 2016
58
Enid, OK
Uggghhhh Site search sucks and not yielding results I need. I saw it before but can't find again...

Who sells the Pan Hard Bar bracket?????
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
To avoid confusion, Kyle's talking about REAR shocks. Tahoe front shocks/struts won't work with our platform.

Too avoid confusion....NOTHING Tahoe fit up front and we "sort-of' have shocks up front. :wink:
 
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Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Well.... technically.... we do have shocks up front. Coilovers, basically. They technically aren't struts because the spindle connects to two control arms, not to the shock body itself, and the shock isn't the upper suspension arm. We have a double wishbone (or A arm) suspension.

bkdep2ejmtescjtralc2.jpg


But, if you ask someone for front shock mounts or stuff you get looked at funny. So yeah, to avoid confusion and for all intents and purposes, they're called struts even if it isn't 100% accurate.

This whole suspension thing has intrigued me for years since I got my old 98 Camaro way back as it has the same basic suspension design and there have been a lot of discussions about whether it is a strut, shock, or what the heck it is. I've probably gone a little crazy gathering data and info :crazy:
 
Apr 23, 2016
145
Tennessee
I have his old 2.5" lift that he sold me for $125 or so last year. I'm also running his spacers as I got some junky ones that caused uneven wear on my tires and caused my wheel to shake vigorously. Nonetheless he's a great guy, with great products. I really want his body lift but I'm leaving for the Air Force next month so that's on hold for the time being.
What brand spacers did you get that were junky
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
No I don't blame you man I was just curious because I just got a set off of amazon and wanted to make sure they weren't the same

EZAccessory.com is the ones that people had issue with
 

Big B Jantzen

Original poster
Member
Aug 9, 2016
58
Enid, OK
Guys, I took it out on the beach Saturday. It performed great!!! Had plenty of clearance.

I did take it to 90 mph on the highway, as I was slowing down from that I got this high vibration up front, was weird. But when I came to a stop at off ramp it went away and engine was still on and purring. I decided not to go above 65 again LOL. Has not done it again and rides great!!! Like people said probably better than before lift.

IMG_4304.JPG IMG_4305.JPG IMG_4318.JPG
 
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HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
Did you get alignment yet?
 

Big B Jantzen

Original poster
Member
Aug 9, 2016
58
Enid, OK
Did you get alignment yet?

Oh Yes!! Sorry. Got one friday. I have an outter tie rod I need to replace and will go back for adjustment after that. But they got it very close and it rides straight.

And they gave me that GM has no camber adjustment crap as well. I got a print out if you want me to post at all.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
They're probably looking at the upper arms for an adjustment, like a bunch of noobs. I really wish guys like that would just open their eyes and look at stuff, pretty darn obvious the LCAs are the ones that move when you take a moment to actually look at the darn vehicle.

If the tie rod is sloppy that could have been your front vibration possibly.
 
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HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
I would look for a new shop if they lied about the camber adjustment.
 

Big B Jantzen

Original poster
Member
Aug 9, 2016
58
Enid, OK
I would look for a new shop if they lied about the camber adjustment.

Yeah I really did not want to go there, but after 6 places on a Friday at lunch I was desperate. Didn't realize it was so hard to find a good alignment in Jacksonville, but being Friday, everyone is busy.

The shops that specialize in lifted/lowered were all swamped. Only place I could get to do it within 2 hours. They have bad reviews and I sat through a complaining irate customer LOL.

Was even the seasoned mechanic who said this. Uggghhhhh
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
Always amazes me how some of these guys think of themselves as professionals
 
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Big B Jantzen

Original poster
Member
Aug 9, 2016
58
Enid, OK
So searching OS I see that the LAC control plates set the camber. Makes sense, funny was when I was putting new plates in I saw I did not push 1 plate all the way back. I unbolted and pushed back. So maybe bring a small amount out on both sides to get camber.

EDIT: Oh it's my passenger outer tie rod that's jacked up and needs replacing. will soon.

EDIT: Actually I need positive camber looking at this now, so I need to make sure plates are all the way to back??

IMG_4326.JPG
 
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Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Sliding forward increases caster, which makes it more stable but stiffer steering. This won't affect your tire wear.

Sliding them inward will increase camber (positive). They need to go in a bit as with that negative camber you have (outward) it will wear the inside shoulders of the tires.

I'd get the tie rod replaced, then go to a good shop that actually knows what they're doing to get it set up right.
 

Big B Jantzen

Original poster
Member
Aug 9, 2016
58
Enid, OK
Thank you!!! Great info!!!!
 
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Big B Jantzen

Original poster
Member
Aug 9, 2016
58
Enid, OK
So last night I changed the Tie Rod and decided to see if I could adjust camber and caster. Oh Yes!!! It's pretty simple too, I over did it though and now my camber looks too positive. One of the LAC plates were a bit cocked side ways so I pushed all the way back.

I found it easiest to use a crow bar and pry from the bottom to move the plate around. Will get some plumb bobs ready and get it closer. Just jack up and secure, loosen 3 bolts. Move plate and tighten 3 bolts, viola!!!

Like HardTrailz said, These people call themselves professionals... Crazy!!!
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
Make sure you torque em to spec. They take a lot of abuse
 
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Big B Jantzen

Original poster
Member
Aug 9, 2016
58
Enid, OK
So the plumb bob worked great!! I think I could have got more precision had I used fishing line, but the shoe strings did the job. Hung from fender at wheel center. measured from top center edge of rim and bottom center edge of rim. Was about 1/4 in diff. Slight movement of plates changed it till I got them the same. Marked plates and frame. pretty simple and the drive was great after. Floated real good down highway and performed well at beach.

I am going to take back for alignment adjustment to see what the readings are now. Sorry jokers doing their job for them though I paid them!!!
 

Big B Jantzen

Original poster
Member
Aug 9, 2016
58
Enid, OK
Pretty Cool!! I got it real close on the camber. Idiots, I had to do it for them. Replaced both outer tirerods and went back to see how close I got it. Just messed up the toe, but I figured I did. Caster will be real hard without messing up camber.

Makes sense now that I look why I am getting more rub on right side than left.

alignment 2.jpg
 

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