Ignition lock cylinder / recoding to retain old key

Reprise

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I've noted that my Sierra's key (double-cut, non-passlock / no chip) has started hanging up on the upper side in the lock cylinder -- I'll try and turn the key forward, find it doesn't, then give a small jiggle to the key, whereupon I can feel resistance give, a little click, and the key then turns forward. No issues getting the key out, either before or after starting.

Obviously, I'd like to fix this while it's still in early stages, before I get to the point where the key won't turn at all.

The issue, for the uninitiated, is a set of two (2) pins, top and bottom, that lock once the key is turned back -- the underside of the plastic ring around the cylinder mechanism wears, and the pins get stuck / can't turn, as a result.

After looking online, it looks like replacing the lock cylinder will fix that issue, but will create a new one by default -- which is that the new cylinder comes with a new key. I want to keep my old one (actually, it and a few duplicates), and not have to carry two sets of keys (one for the doors / one for the ignition)

Thankfully, that can be done by recoding the lock - swap the pins from the old one, into the new. Found the video that shows how to do that.

My question -- anyone done this on their own? I'm willing to try, but I think I'd be better off having a locksmith do it. The pins don't worry me, but watching the tiny springs accidentally fly out, get lost, and not having a clue on how to recover from there, does worry me a bit.
 

Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
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Ottawa, ON
I've never done it but have seen videos of it done. If you get a new one that must be coded, this video explains how. Doesn't seem too complicated.


If you get one that's already coded with a key, this video shows how to reuse the old tumblers with the caveat being that they may be worn. Could possibly move around the new tumblers to match the numbers of the old one if there are enough of each number. (This is for a Ford)


Obviously the first option would be the easiest.
 
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Reprise

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Thanks. I had just watched the second video myself when I created the post. Hadn't seen the first one, tho. When the guy in the second video started talking about the springs, that's when I started thinking twice.

I think I'm going to find a locksmith, TBH. Will order up the new cylinder & practice taking it out, then take both to the professional & let him have at it. Worth the peace of mind. Will probably do it while I'm out of town (my departure window has miraculously stayed open while I dealt with the 'fuse fiasco')
 
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Sparky

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Dec 4, 2011
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Just making sure you're positive it is the cylinder not the key is worn right? My Silverado was doing that kind of thing and it was because the key itself was worn down. The 2nd key I had was a brand new cut key from the dealer I bought the truck from and it didn'tstick in the ignition. (truck had only 1 key and fob, I insisted they give me a 2nd key upon purchase). That is now my primary key with no issues. I kept the worn one as a spare.
 

Reprise

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I'm using recuts for this truck. It came with one key, which had some wear (and had the plastic top partially cut off of it, with a new (off-center) hole.) Ug-ly.

I always get paranoid about losing an 'only' key, so one of the first things I do is get duplicates made. And since these aren't chipped keys, it's pretty inexpensive to get them made.

Both of the new ones do the same thing. I should try the old one; it's stored away for safekeeping. I don't recall it sticking the few times I used it / when I bought the truck (it's the kind of thing that if you weren't used to driving the truck, you'd probably encounter it every time.)

TL;DR -- I'm pretty sure it's the cylinder (lock pins). But I'll get the old key and make sure :undecided:
 

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