NEED HELP Ignition key, turns but no start & won't remove

billzie

Original poster
Member
Aug 20, 2012
86
Athens, OH
First off, I searched, good info but not exactly my symptoms.
Wife driving TB 06 EXT LT and said it acted like it was losing power so she coasted into a parking spot. The key is stuck in the ignition. It rotates (very freely) in the run position to what I think is the start position, but will not rotate to the off position. Shifter will not move. No dash display or lights. Seems to have power, headlight brake and interior lights work at full power.
Grins and giggles tried jumping (based on search info here) and no change.
Is this the ignition cylinder? My GM shop manual says to disable SIR 3 and remove steering wheel, really? No one here mentioned this in my searches.
Also some background:
TB has been sitting for the most part for 2 months, but I start it every few days and I drove it 2 miles 2 weeks ago, but back to DD a few days ago.
I've only had it 6 months, but have done locally remanufactured alternator, new : quality battery, belt, u & l rad hoses, t stat, wp, coolant. This work done at same time and have put about 1,000 miles on it since. Had a relatively minor accident, someone hit the ps 1/4 panel bumper, then tire blow out, followed by lugnuts falling off and spare rolling off at about 30 mph so rotor rolled it to a stop (whole nother story).
Whew! Anyway, need your help asap as we need this vehicle on the road. Sorry posting so late, just got home.
Thanks, Bill.
 
Last edited:

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
The usual culprit for key now wanting to come.out is a dead battery. Charge up or replace the battery or give it a jump.
 

billzie

Original poster
Member
Aug 20, 2012
86
Athens, OH
Thanks for the reply. As I mentioned in the op I saw that advice in my search here so I did try to jump it even though there was no evidence of loss of battery power. There was no change.
Does anyone know if I have to disable SIR #3 and remove the steering wheel to replace the ignition key cylinder switch as I see in the GM shop manual?
Bill
 

billzie

Original poster
Member
Aug 20, 2012
86
Athens, OH
Ok, 21 degrees this morning yay, got to TB armed with all that I could find here the os YouTube vids and GM shop manual.
I see why the manual says disable SIR to then remove steering wheel. Because then you don't have to remove this huge arse gauge/radio bezel, and they charge more I'm sure.
Something has to come out to be able to remove the column trim pieces. And, even by removing the gauge/radio bezel, removing the column pieces is little tricky and replacing them correctly even more so...
What I did:
1. Remove 2 IGN 40a fuses in under hood fuse panel.
2. Disconnect Neg battery cable.
3. Remove 2 7mm screws from front edge of DS lower/knee trim, gently pry down, let hang.
4. Remove 2 7mm screws now viewable from lower DS dash trim, and 2 7mm screw from upper side, gently pry this trim off, put aside.
5. Remove 6 phillips screws from gauge/radio bezel, 2 either side above gauges, 2 under headlight switch below L of column, 1 below R of column, and 1 in cubby near cig lighter/aux input (Envoys only have 4 screws holding bezel that only surrounds gauges, lucky you). Gently pry bezel outward. Disconnect wiring plugs to headlight, 2/4/awd, and rear wiper switches and cig and 12v aux plugs. Set bezel aside.
6. Gently pry column tilt handle off. You will have to use finger in tilt armature to tilt column up/down as needed for next few steps.
7. Remove 2 T25 screws from lower column trim. Gently pry down and toward you to remove (my screws were missing and alignment tabs were mangled...).
8. This step only needed if replacing ign lock cylinder. Remove E5 screw that is tucked way in next to ign lock cylinder. Gently (or as forcefully as necessary, reason why shop manual removes steering wheel as I'm sure these trim pieces then have ample room to remove) remove upper column trim working around cylinder area first then rear then out from steering wheel. Remove cylinder (I didn't have to do this, I tried, supposed to depress a keeper through the tiny top hole to remove but my wouldn't come out easily, so I moved on to the switch...).
9. The ign switch plugs into the bottom of the cylinder, it is held in place by a white plastic catch on each side, depress them with 2 small pick tools while pulling downward on the harness/switch. There is a small harness you may have to move a bit to remove the switch. Remove switch from harness and note position of splrocket as your new one must match to marry with the lock cylinder in correct placement.
10. Installation is reverse.

HOWEVER, in my case, when I couldn't easily remove the cylinder, I moved on to the switch. The darn thing wasn't fully seated onto the lock cylinder!!! I just pulled it out. This, coupled with the finding the lower column trim tabs mangled and T25 screws missing, lead me to believe that this switch was replaced by a prior owner and lucky us last night it decided to fail (coldest night since bought 6 months ago). I plugged it back in correctly, connect battery and fuses, and started no problem.
I'm going to remove the switch and the cylinder to inspect them for grins/giggles while everything is apart, then properly reassemble everything.
I hope this helps others,
Bill
 

Forum Statistics

Threads
23,273
Posts
637,487
Members
18,472
Latest member
MissCrutcher