I have an 05 Envoy with 195,000 miles. I first got the P0014 ( Exhaust-B camshaft position timing overadvance bank 1 ), scaned and cleared a couple times -keeps coming back so it's doesn't appear to be a fluke. Just recently got the P0526 ( fan speed sensor circuit ). I don't have any drivability issues, the temp guage is just a hair under 210 like it always is ( scan tool says 198 ) So is it just sensors that are going bad or do I have a problem that needs a part ??
I have a P0014 & P0526 and questions !
- Thread starter tcurlee
- Start date
For addressing the P0014 Code... Start here:
If your CPAS (Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid) shown in these Videos has Oil around and inside of the Electrical Connector… and/or if the Internal Screens are Clogged with Dirt and Sludge… or are missing entirely... it will have to be replaced. In the first two Videos… MAC-T uses the incorrect name for the CPAS as being a “VVT” ... but he is actually referring to the CPAS. These Videos will instruct you in how to R&R the CPAS… and if necessary…. also replace the CPS (Camshaft Position Solenoid) in the third Video if needed. Avoid using the Dorman CPAS and follow the recommendations other Members will mention for the only acceptable replacement part. Be sure to Clear the Codes after these repairs.
MAC-T’s ”VVT” CPAS Repair:
Another Good Video for dealing with changing the CPS (Camshaft Position Sensor):
For addressing the P0526 and performing an R&R of the EV Fan-Clutch:
One of our experienced Members, @Matt has The PERFECT HOW-TO Thread available here on GMT Nation for the easiest way to perform this job as well:
For the 4.2L Set-up:
For the 5.3L Set-up:
Please understand that with such a High Mileage SUV... If your Oil is particularly dirty or has had extended periods between Oil Changes... without performing an Engine Flush using A Cheap Oil Filter, (6) Quarts of Cheap Organic Motor Oil.. and (1) Quart of either Transmission Fluid or Engine Flush to run inside the engine for ONLY (5) Minutes at IDLE...without racing the engine or elevating the RPM... then the Clogged Screens inside of the New CPAS will likely re-occur. The Proper and Sensitive Functioning of the CPAS is absolutely dependent upon Clean, Proper Viscosity Motor Oil.... So after performing this task... Immediately Change the Oil to (7) Quarts of Mobil1 5W-30 (or 0W-30 in Very Cold Climes) and use a High Grade Oil Filter such as K&N or Mobil1 Brands...and note the Mileage so that you can Change Your Oil Every 3,000 Miles!
If your CPAS (Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid) shown in these Videos has Oil around and inside of the Electrical Connector… and/or if the Internal Screens are Clogged with Dirt and Sludge… or are missing entirely... it will have to be replaced. In the first two Videos… MAC-T uses the incorrect name for the CPAS as being a “VVT” ... but he is actually referring to the CPAS. These Videos will instruct you in how to R&R the CPAS… and if necessary…. also replace the CPS (Camshaft Position Solenoid) in the third Video if needed. Avoid using the Dorman CPAS and follow the recommendations other Members will mention for the only acceptable replacement part. Be sure to Clear the Codes after these repairs.
MAC-T’s ”VVT” CPAS Repair:
Another Good Video for dealing with changing the CPS (Camshaft Position Sensor):
For addressing the P0526 and performing an R&R of the EV Fan-Clutch:
One of our experienced Members, @Matt has The PERFECT HOW-TO Thread available here on GMT Nation for the easiest way to perform this job as well:
For the 4.2L Set-up:
For the 5.3L Set-up:
Please understand that with such a High Mileage SUV... If your Oil is particularly dirty or has had extended periods between Oil Changes... without performing an Engine Flush using A Cheap Oil Filter, (6) Quarts of Cheap Organic Motor Oil.. and (1) Quart of either Transmission Fluid or Engine Flush to run inside the engine for ONLY (5) Minutes at IDLE...without racing the engine or elevating the RPM... then the Clogged Screens inside of the New CPAS will likely re-occur. The Proper and Sensitive Functioning of the CPAS is absolutely dependent upon Clean, Proper Viscosity Motor Oil.... So after performing this task... Immediately Change the Oil to (7) Quarts of Mobil1 5W-30 (or 0W-30 in Very Cold Climes) and use a High Grade Oil Filter such as K&N or Mobil1 Brands...and note the Mileage so that you can Change Your Oil Every 3,000 Miles!
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Mooseman
Moderator
I would actually recommend flushing the oil BEFORE swapping the CPAS so it will see only clean oil from the start. And if there is oil in the CPAS connector, it's toast and must be replaced.
Swapping to a thermal clutch and getting the PCM tuned is not for everybody. If you're comfortable getting the PCM tuned and what it entails, then it is worth it. If you just want to replace the fan clutch with the same type, Hayden is our go-to, Dorman is junk. ACDelco is overpriced.
Swapping to a thermal clutch and getting the PCM tuned is not for everybody. If you're comfortable getting the PCM tuned and what it entails, then it is worth it. If you just want to replace the fan clutch with the same type, Hayden is our go-to, Dorman is junk. ACDelco is overpriced.
Thanks for your reply and and advice guys. I am a bit over due for an oil change - I did put some seafoam in the oil and am getting ready to change now after a couple hundred miles. Then I'm going to order the CpAS and CPS and install them after the oil change
So for the P0526 code, i'm a little confused on what I actually need. Is it just the E/V fan clutch ? can someone point me to the link that Matt referrs to please ?! Was it just a coincidence or are my 2 codes related ?
I'm also going to replace the plugs and do a throttle body clean as well very soon
So for the P0526 code, i'm a little confused on what I actually need. Is it just the E/V fan clutch ? can someone point me to the link that Matt referrs to please ?! Was it just a coincidence or are my 2 codes related ?
I'm also going to replace the plugs and do a throttle body clean as well very soon
Sure... Now don't be put off that the Main Topic of this Genuinely Genius Piece is about "The Water Pump R&R"... as the Steps necessary to GET to the WP include the requirement of the R&R of the Electro-Viscous Fan-Clutch and the ancillary components surrounding it.
Oh... and while it is not unheard of for "Multiple Codes" to manifest themselves from either shared or co-related components... in your situation... The Problem of the CPAS and the Problem with the EV Fan-Clutch are mutually exclusive issues. :>)
https://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/how-to-replace-the-water-pump.15639/
Oh... and while it is not unheard of for "Multiple Codes" to manifest themselves from either shared or co-related components... in your situation... The Problem of the CPAS and the Problem with the EV Fan-Clutch are mutually exclusive issues. :>)
https://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/how-to-replace-the-water-pump.15639/
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Hey, guys - a little advice please..... While I have the fan and shroud out, should i go ahead and replace the water pump as well?? It was replaced about 100,000 miles ago at a GM dealership. It seems to be fine with no leaks or wobbles/noises but like I said it has 100,000 miles on it - just wonderin'. I'm not a fan of spending unnessary money/time but in some cases it could worth it.
xavierny25
Member
I would along with the idlers pulley and tensioner if they haven't been replaced this far.
I'm on my 2nd pump although the first one I replaced was off the shelf and can't remember the brand, crapped out with in a year 1/2. I've got 172,??? miles on my 08 Voy.
stick with OEM parts with anything you replace on these rigs and there sure to last a long time.
I'm on my 2nd pump although the first one I replaced was off the shelf and can't remember the brand, crapped out with in a year 1/2. I've got 172,??? miles on my 08 Voy.
stick with OEM parts with anything you replace on these rigs and there sure to last a long time.
When you mention ANY Engine Parts with 100,000 Miles or more of Wear and Tear that are not made of Solid Stainless Steel... It makes perfect sense to perform the R&R ...when you can easily 'stare them in the face'. As long as you go with the ACDelco OEM Parts that are shown in these images... You Can't Go Wrong:
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That's what I thought - I practically answered my own question. I have the part in my cart in Rockauto. I did the idler pulley not too long ago. Tensioner seems like a good idea as well along with the stock 13 year old upper & lower radiator hoses. 
. 
. I'll let you all know how all this goes - I'm more brave than good !
. . I'll let you all know how all this goes - I'm more brave than good !Hi all, thought I would post an update.... Finally got around to doing some of this work. An engine flush and oil change seemed to 'solve' the CPAS code and even though the clutch fan wasn't operating but throwing the code, I had no drivability problems at all - coolant temp never waivered past 208 and was very quiet !!. That said, I still replaced both parts with the recommended brand parts. With fear and trepidation, I modded the the fan shroud to more easily get it past the rad. neck (works great btw). The water pump was rock solid ( replaced once already ) so I left it alone. With the modded fan shroud, it'll be an easier job if it ever comes to that. New upper rad. hose and off and running. No light on the dash is nice 
. But now the fan roars like the jet engine everyone talks about seemingly for longer than it should, especially since it's flippin' cold out now. Maybe the previous one was broke for so long I forgot what normal was like. What 'should' I expect from my new Hayden clutch fan ??
I really appreciate all the great advice from you guys at this site - Thanks
. But now the fan roars like the jet engine everyone talks about seemingly for longer than it should, especially since it's flippin' cold out now. Maybe the previous one was broke for so long I forgot what normal was like. What 'should' I expect from my new Hayden clutch fan ??I really appreciate all the great advice from you guys at this site - Thanks
Kelly@PCMofNC
Member
- Mar 16, 2013
- 184
Glad you got it taken care of. And yes...it's possible you just got used to the decreased fan operation and now it sounds louder now that it's working correctly!
Mooseman
Moderator
It is very normal for it to be noisy at startup and sound like a dump truck for a few minutes but should quiet down, especially while driving it.
Yep,, I've listened to it more carefully here lately and it does quiet down after a few mins - it's all good. Thanks !