"How To" Remove, Repair & Replace Broken Fuel Tank Filler Neck, R&R Delphi Fuel Pump & Quick Disconnects

[mrrsm]

This Video covers the following repairs that will apply to a wide range of GM & GMC SUVs and Trucks to deal with the following problems:

(1) Fuel Tanks with Snapped-Off Filler Necks at the Tank Interface.
(2) Inoperative Fuel Pumps (Replaced with OEM Delphi with Very Good Tips and Info on this R&R).
(3) Damaged Fuel Line Quick Disconnect- Connectors (WITHOUT using any Expensive Repair Tools).

It would have been much better (and MUCH Safer) for the VOP (Video Original Poster) to have used “Spark-Proof” Brass Drift Tools for this series of Repairs around a partially filled Fuel Tank. However, it is doubtful that there is a more Comprehensive Instructional Video available on how to accomplish ALL three aspects of this ‘R&R&R’ in One Go as depicted on this Video (Remove, Repair & Replace):

 

[Mooseman]

I just learned something today. You can use the SWB pump in a LWB. Just the gauge will not quite go up to full mark.

That kit had been mentioned here before:

Fuel Filler Neck Repair Kit

Has anybody seen or used the repair kit offered on Ebay at the link below. It's pretty pricey. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-Chevrolet-Trailblazer-LS-LT-LX-LXT-fuel-tank-filler-neck-repair-kit-/121782178621?hash=item1c5ac8933d:g:-PQAAOSwvt1WRXsY&vxp=mtr&rmvSB=true There's also a video on...

gmtnation.com

It's a bit pricey IMHO. This guy used a common threaded barb with some epoxy. I wouldn't have put the anti-rollover valve back in as this would reduce the fuel flow. There's already the gas cap so to me, it is redundant.

And I remember someone here or on YT using brass fittings basically doing the same thing as the kit without a valve. Unfortunately I can't find it.

 

[m.mcmillen]

My father in law has a Rainier and I used a soldering iron and pieces of plastic to "weld" and seal it back up. That was about 3 or 4 years ago and it is still holding up.

This solution looks a bit easier than mine.

 

[mrrsm]

If you notice in the Video... the VOP (Video Original Poster) is using a Brass Hammer to Pound Hell out of the End of a High Carbon Screw Driver...so the problem with this is that the “Sparking Ends” are STILL present where the Screw Drive Blade digs into the Rusty Steel Lock Rung Grooves. It only takes One Spark to ignite Fuel Vapors in and around an Open Fuel Tank...

Yet ALL of these potential problems are completely avoidable. For the sake of covering all of these Safety Issues, these Brass Tools and Gas Tank Visual Probe Light are indispensable for the “Care Free-Spark-Free” removal of the Ferrous Metal Lock Ring of the GM Plastic Fuel Tanks and for working around all other flammable vapour saturated environments:

(1) Brass Hammer.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U1F0JXM/?tag=gmtnation-20



(2) Brass Chisel (recommend dulling the edge before attacking the Lock Ring Removal).



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MS758FA/?tag=gmtnation-20

(3) Explosion Proof - Fuel Proof Flashlight.



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012CUNWNW/?tag=gmtnation-20