How to R&R Rear Axles and Roller Bearings for TBs & Envoys

mrrsm

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The Rear Axles are held in with simple, robust Stamped Metal "C" Clips that can be accessed after removing the Rear Cover and Draining and Flushing out EVERYTHING inside of the Differential Case. Be prepared to have the Permatex RTV and Mobil1 75W-90 Weight Gear Oil AND the Anti-Slip additive if your Service Manual requires it, (See @Mooseman's Signature to Download the GM Factory Manual for your SUV). If you intend on doing this work and have the Skill Set of a Good Mechanic... You should be Okay.

Besides having to remove your Rear Brakes and Calipers-Brackets to get to access to the Naked Rear Axle and Stud Plate... you MUST first ensure that you HAVE ENOUGH LATERAL ROOM TO COMPLETELY REMOVE THE AXLES FROM EITHER SIDE OF THE VEHICLE.

If you make the mistake of parking in your Garage without calculating just how much room you will need... You'll have to RE-ASSEMBLE EVERYTHING and later park where you WILL have enough ROOM to do the entire Job.

After you remove the Center Axle Cross-Pin- Retention Bolt ...Do NOT re-use it! The Bolt is NOT that expensive and neither are a pair of Dorman Copper Clad "C" Axle Retention Washers-Clips. Once that Differential Cross-Pin slides out... You WILL have to PUSH the Outer Wheel INWARDS in order to slide the Axles INWARD and relieve the lock-points of those "C" Clips from where they remain tucked underneath the Inner Axle Housing. WATCH YOUR FINGERS! Using a Strong Neodymium Telescoping Magnet with an End that is around the size of a "Buffalo Nickel" will be a HUGE Help when manipulating these oddly shaped parts and components around inside of the cramped Diff-Case. Here is where to obtain the "C" Clips:


DORMANAXLECLIPS.jpg

You will require a Slide-Hammer and a Roller Bearing Inside Puller Tool that you can Rent from Autozone if you don't want to purchase your own. Be thoughtful and careful and Try NOT to Yank things in or out when around those Gears inside the Differential Housing. Replace ANYTHING that looks Chipped or Damaged. When performing the Re-Assembly... SLOWLY Rotate the Gears inside of the Diff-Case by using the Temporarily Re-Installed Tire-Wheel from underneath with your free hand to align things inside of the Differential... and KEEP Your Fingers on the OTHER Hand FREE AND CLEAR OF THOSE GEARS.

THIS is a Pretty Damned Good Video that covers the FULL Axle Roller Bearings R&R. Plan Well... work CAREFULLY and DO NOT LOSE YOUR MIND if the Spider Gears & Concave Washers around them FALL OUT and try to Knock Out Your Front Teeth! They are Heavy, Gnarly Gears that will SURPRISE you by suddenly Flying OUT of the Case if you are NOT Paying Attention to what is happening. So, Protect your Face and Eyes and Hands-Fingers!

One Last Warning!

Do NOT Let any Dawdlers or Gawkers Hang Around near you when you're working away under the vehicle that is Stupid Enough to want to Lean over to See what you are doing... and after placing his hand on the Wheel to get his balance, he allows the Tire to 'accidentally' and suddenly Spin Around... and Winds up Cutting Off Your Fingers! Send him out for Beer and Pizza over on the Other Side of The State if he won't leave you alone!


 
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Reprise

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Besides having to remove your Rear Brakes and Calipers-Brackets to get to access to the Naked Rear Axle and Stud Plate... you MUST first ensure that you HAVE ENOUGH LATERAL ROOM TO COMPLETELY REMOVE THE AXLES FROM EITHER SIDE OF THE VEHICLE.

If you make the mistake of parking in your Garage without calculating just how much room you will need... You'll have to RE-ASSEMBLE EVERYTHING and later park where you WILL have enough ROOM to do the entire Job.

Of all your many posts... the above two paragraphs alone make this thread one of your very best on this site, IMHO. :2thumbsup: (and it's a good thread, on it's own!)
 
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gmcman

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Dec 12, 2011
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Of all your many posts... the above two paragraphs alone make this thread one of your very best on this site, IMHO. :2thumbsup: (and it's a good thread, on it's own!)

I agree....that's something to easily overlook...excellent tip.

Hopefully @MRRSM didn't come to this conclusion by inventing some new swear words.... :smile:
 
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Reprise

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I agree....that's something to easily overlook.

Me, when I had the diff cover off on the Quadrasteer Sierra and debating whether I should go for the axle shafts. Other observations prompted me to simply put the cover back on & seek out an axle specialist.
 

mrrsm

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Gentlemen... I really appreciate Reading of your Support... Especially since recently, I had to request that a Moderator Delete this entire Article from another Thread as being Off Topic and Inappropriate concerning its relation to Axle Bearing Replacements at the Opposite End of our Vehicles... (Pause here... for my aposeopesis...)

@gmcman ... You NAILED it... First Hand Experiences might be the BEST... and The WORST way to Learn about working in Unfamiliar Mechanical Territory.... and the Cautionary Tale worth taking away here ...is THIS:

Once you Unbolt that Slender 10.9 Retainer Fastener... that Center Smooth Steel Axle Lock Retention Pin... WILL Fall out like Major Kong Riding the A-Bomb that Dropped from the Belly of the B-52 in "Dr. Strangelove"... and Crack You Right in the Teeth. So if these things need doing... THAT particular item deserves your Undivided Attention!

...see 1:30 in THIS Video to get the Idea:


...and I DID manage to Invent a New Word for Mangled Fingers... As, through the Haze of Pain... I remember blurting something out through Pursed Lips and Clenched Teeth... something that sounded a lot like:


OooooW... MY.... PHFFFF*****G... PHIMPHERS ...!!!

I thought I would Top Off the Thread by including the attached Images showing of ALL the Parts, Pieces, Lubricants and Sealants AND Tools necessary to do The Complete Job of Rear Differential "C" Clip, Axle and Roller Bearing Repair....

Ahhh Yes... One More Frustrating Detail .... It was almost IMPOSSIBLE to locate the CORRECT Slide Hammer to Mate up with the OTC Bearing Puller Tool as AutoZone and Other Outlets Do NOT Sell this particular Flavor Slide hammer with the Correct Male Bolt and Thread Pitch. So if you intend on getting THESE Tools and Components... Make a NOTE of the OTC Part Number from the Box Ends I recorded in the Slide Hammer Images below:

DSC04622.jpegDSC04623.jpegDSC05207.jpegDSC05208.jpegDSC05209.jpegDSC05213.jpegDSC05214.jpegDSC05216.jpegDSC05218.jpegDSC05210.jpegDSC05217.jpegDSC05219.jpeg
 
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xavierny25

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Mar 16, 2014
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Staten Island, N.Y
I watched that same video when I did the r&r on the Voys rear diff. Gave me the right amount of know how to get the tools and things I needed along with the added advice about getting my brother-in-law to help out. lol
20170421_113106.jpg20170421_142853.jpg20170421_161606.jpg
 
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mrrsm

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Thanks for Adding those Images, @xavierny25 ... People who use their SUVs and Trucks and Tow Trailers and Campers ... have No Idea How Much Leaning, Lateral Stresses do generate POWERFUL inputs of Angular Momentum into those Axles and Roller Bearings they constantly experience when driving At Speed around Curves and even under ordinary Right and Left Hand Turning.

So whenever that "Growl" gets the Driver's Attention... Its "Time For Timken" Axle Bearing Replacements. I also like the way you both work together on so many Auto Repair Projects. I really do envy you...
 

xavierny25

Member
Mar 16, 2014
6,323
Staten Island, N.Y
Thanks for Adding those Images, @xavierny25 ... People who use their SUVs and Trucks and Tow Trailers and Campers ... have No Idea How Much Leaning, Lateral Stresses do generate POWERFUL inputs of Angular Momentum into those Axles and Roller Bearings they constantly experience when driving At Speed around Curves and even under ordinary Right and Left Hand Turning.

So whenever that "Growl" gets the Driver's Attention... Its "Time For Timken" Axle Bearing Replacements. I also like the way you both work together on so many Auto Repair Projects. I really do envy you...
I'll be adding additional pic's later this week when we do the rear seals on his TBSS with the 4.10s rear diff.
 
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HARDTRAILZ

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Nov 18, 2011
49,665
It was definitely needed to be removed from the post you added it to, since it had zero bearing on the front end question being asked. Did not make it a bad post, just inappropriate for where you decided to try and add it.
 

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