I thought it would be a good idea to break out this “Pressurized Brake Bleeding Procedure” from the other Brake Repair Work involved with my 2000 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Long Bed Truck. I think this Procedure stands out from all others because it is THE Fastest, THE Easiest and THE Most Efficacious Method to Bleed the Brakes on ANY Vehicle… AND NOT SPILL A DROP OF OLD OR NEW BRAKE FLUID.
If my attempt at a Write Up is evaluated as being either too Common or Redundant to other contemporary procedures … Please just delete it:
The Pictorial View of these Text Instructions:
www.flickr.com
The Problem:
Bleeding Brakes as the One Person Doing ALL The Work… Running around the Vehicle from Wheel to Wheel, cranking on the 10mm Flare Wrench to bleed each one through a short hose into some kind of Catch Bottle… AND while mashing on the Brake Pedal AND worrying about “Did I remember to TOP OFF the Master Cylinder...”...again...and again ...and again… is a HUGE PITA.
The Tools for The Solution:
Invest in the following Pressure Brake Bleeding Equipment:
(1) Motive Products “Power Bleeder” available on Amazon and via www.motiveproducts.com
(2) MityVac Fluid Extractor Part # MVA6951 and a Clear Plastic 16 Ounce Fluid Catch Container
(3) ACDelco Dot 4 Brake Fluid Part# 10-4066 GM Part # 19299570 (3) Pints
(4) Allstar Performance Part # 11017 Opaque, Magnetic Brake Bleeder Bottle (1) Pint
(5) Gear-Drive Metric & SAE Flare Wrench Set (Use the 10mm Flare Wrench for Brake Bleeds)
The Pressurized Brake Bleeding Procedures:
(A) Choose the RRW FIRST and install the Allstar Bleed Bottle on the uncovered Bleeder Fitting.
(B) Use the Built-In Magnet on the Bottle to position it level with the Brake Cylinder.
(C) Set out your Tools adjacent to the Master Cylinder and ensure level placement of Equipment.
(D) Use a Cloth to Cover the Painted Surfaces of your Fender(s) Brake Fluid will Damage them.
(E) Clean the Dirt and Debris either ON or Around the Master Cylinder Screw Cap and Remove it.
(F) Clean the GM OEM Master Cylinder Cap Inside and Out and set it aside.
(G) Unbox the Power Bleeder and wrap Teflon Tape around the Male Threads of the Brass Fitting.
(H) Make certain that No New Manufacturing Debris is left inside the Power-Bleeder Unit.
(I) Use an SAE 11/16” and an SAE 9/16” Open End Box Wrench to screw the two Cap Tube Brass Segments together… Air and Liquid Leak-Proof Tight.
(J) Insert the Pressure Pump Handle Tube Unit and Tighten It Down ...Very Snugly.
(K) Insert the Thinner Rubber Sealing Grommet into the Power Bleeder Cap and Fasten it to the Master Cylinder.
(L) Look at the Built-In Air Pressure Gauge and Use the Pump Handle to create 20 PSI inside the Tank.
(M) Leave the Unit sit for 15-20 Minutes to ensure there are NO Air Leaks from the Master Cylinder.
(N) If the Air Pressure remains Steady, SLOWLY Unscrew the Tank Cap to relieve the Internal Air Pressure.
(O) DO NOT REMOVE THE CAP -TUBE FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER TO RELIEVE THE AIR PRESSURE.
(P) Position a Clean, Translucent 16 Ounce Cup nearby to the Master Cylinder with Paper Towels Handy.
(Q) Use the MityVac Suction Device to SLOWLY Remove ALMOST ALL of the Fluid in the MC.
(R) Squirt the Old Fluid Contents of the Master Cylinder into the Clear Plastic Container and Set it Aside.
(S) DO NOT REMOVE ALL OF THE BRAKE FLUID FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER!
(T) Use One Full Pint of ACDelco DOT-4 Brake Fluid to Replenish the Nearly Empty Master Cylinder.
(U) Use (2) Full Pints of ACDelco DOT-4 Brake Fluid to Fill the Power-Bleeder Tank.
(V) Pressurize the Power-Bleeder to NOT MORE THAN 20 PSI.
(W) Visit EACH Brake Bleeder in THIS ORDER: RRW → LRW→ RFW→ LFW
(X) In between Each Wheel Bleed… Press on the Brake Pedal HARD to Ensure MC Fluid Pressurization.
(Y) Let the Brake Fluid Run until ALL AIR BUBBLES are Removed and the Fluid Runs CLEAR.
(Z) Replace the Master Cylinder Cap and Use the Ability to Pressurize the Tank to Pump the remaining ACDelco Brake Fluid BACK into the New ACDelco Bottle and then CAP IT TIGHTLY.
www.flickr.com
If my attempt at a Write Up is evaluated as being either too Common or Redundant to other contemporary procedures … Please just delete it:
The Pictorial View of these Text Instructions:
How to Pressure Bleed Brakes on ANY GM Vehicle
How To Pressure Brake Bleed ANY GM Vehicle.
www.flickr.com
The Problem:
Bleeding Brakes as the One Person Doing ALL The Work… Running around the Vehicle from Wheel to Wheel, cranking on the 10mm Flare Wrench to bleed each one through a short hose into some kind of Catch Bottle… AND while mashing on the Brake Pedal AND worrying about “Did I remember to TOP OFF the Master Cylinder...”...again...and again ...and again… is a HUGE PITA.
The Tools for The Solution:
Invest in the following Pressure Brake Bleeding Equipment:
(1) Motive Products “Power Bleeder” available on Amazon and via www.motiveproducts.com
(2) MityVac Fluid Extractor Part # MVA6951 and a Clear Plastic 16 Ounce Fluid Catch Container
(3) ACDelco Dot 4 Brake Fluid Part# 10-4066 GM Part # 19299570 (3) Pints
(4) Allstar Performance Part # 11017 Opaque, Magnetic Brake Bleeder Bottle (1) Pint
(5) Gear-Drive Metric & SAE Flare Wrench Set (Use the 10mm Flare Wrench for Brake Bleeds)
The Pressurized Brake Bleeding Procedures:
(A) Choose the RRW FIRST and install the Allstar Bleed Bottle on the uncovered Bleeder Fitting.
(B) Use the Built-In Magnet on the Bottle to position it level with the Brake Cylinder.
(C) Set out your Tools adjacent to the Master Cylinder and ensure level placement of Equipment.
(D) Use a Cloth to Cover the Painted Surfaces of your Fender(s) Brake Fluid will Damage them.
(E) Clean the Dirt and Debris either ON or Around the Master Cylinder Screw Cap and Remove it.
(F) Clean the GM OEM Master Cylinder Cap Inside and Out and set it aside.
(G) Unbox the Power Bleeder and wrap Teflon Tape around the Male Threads of the Brass Fitting.
(H) Make certain that No New Manufacturing Debris is left inside the Power-Bleeder Unit.
(I) Use an SAE 11/16” and an SAE 9/16” Open End Box Wrench to screw the two Cap Tube Brass Segments together… Air and Liquid Leak-Proof Tight.
(J) Insert the Pressure Pump Handle Tube Unit and Tighten It Down ...Very Snugly.
(K) Insert the Thinner Rubber Sealing Grommet into the Power Bleeder Cap and Fasten it to the Master Cylinder.
(L) Look at the Built-In Air Pressure Gauge and Use the Pump Handle to create 20 PSI inside the Tank.
(M) Leave the Unit sit for 15-20 Minutes to ensure there are NO Air Leaks from the Master Cylinder.
(N) If the Air Pressure remains Steady, SLOWLY Unscrew the Tank Cap to relieve the Internal Air Pressure.
(O) DO NOT REMOVE THE CAP -TUBE FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER TO RELIEVE THE AIR PRESSURE.
(P) Position a Clean, Translucent 16 Ounce Cup nearby to the Master Cylinder with Paper Towels Handy.
(Q) Use the MityVac Suction Device to SLOWLY Remove ALMOST ALL of the Fluid in the MC.
(R) Squirt the Old Fluid Contents of the Master Cylinder into the Clear Plastic Container and Set it Aside.
(S) DO NOT REMOVE ALL OF THE BRAKE FLUID FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER!
(T) Use One Full Pint of ACDelco DOT-4 Brake Fluid to Replenish the Nearly Empty Master Cylinder.
(U) Use (2) Full Pints of ACDelco DOT-4 Brake Fluid to Fill the Power-Bleeder Tank.
(V) Pressurize the Power-Bleeder to NOT MORE THAN 20 PSI.
(W) Visit EACH Brake Bleeder in THIS ORDER: RRW → LRW→ RFW→ LFW
(X) In between Each Wheel Bleed… Press on the Brake Pedal HARD to Ensure MC Fluid Pressurization.
(Y) Let the Brake Fluid Run until ALL AIR BUBBLES are Removed and the Fluid Runs CLEAR.
(Z) Replace the Master Cylinder Cap and Use the Ability to Pressurize the Tank to Pump the remaining ACDelco Brake Fluid BACK into the New ACDelco Bottle and then CAP IT TIGHTLY.
How to Pressure Bleed Brakes on ANY GM Vehicle
How To Pressure Brake Bleed ANY GM Vehicle.
www.flickr.com
Last edited:
