NEED HELP How to mount the lower strut mounting bolt?

zaid3ssaf

Original poster
Member
Jan 1, 2020
151
Midwest
Good morning! I am trying to install new struts and shocks but the new strut wouldn't go in the lower mounting bolt. So, I disconnected the sway bar link and helped a little but still it would not align correctly. I have the car jacked on one side only, should I get both sides jacked?

 

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Mike534x

Member
Apr 9, 2012
934
It looks like the strut is fully seated into the bracket, I know its a slight pain to get the lower back on. Have you tried using a prybar to get a little more room to slide it in? The driver side was easy, but the passenger side fought me when swapping them out.
 
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zaid3ssaf

Original poster
Member
Jan 1, 2020
151
Midwest
It looks like the strut is fully seated into the bracket, I know its a slight pain to get the lower back on. Have you tried using a prybar to get a little more room to slide it in? The driver side was easy, but the passenger side fought me when swapping them out.
When you did that, was the strut mounted to the mounting bracket (the little arm or whatever its called) or did you mount the bracket to the bottom bolt and then try to slide the strut in it (after its been secured by the top bolts)?
 

Mike534x

Member
Apr 9, 2012
934
Yep! It was easier mounting it with the bracket attached. When I did mine, I lined it up with holes for the top bolts, then slide the bottom bracket in and then put the upper bolts in. I did try it the other way, but it was harder since there was not enough play with the top bolts secured to get the bottom lined up.
 

zaid3ssaf

Original poster
Member
Jan 1, 2020
151
Midwest
Still doesnt fit. Im not sure if the new struts are little longer or of the old ones are compressed but it doesnt fit no matter what I do

1596835090057.png
 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,344
Ottawa, ON
Sure look like they're longer :confused:. Try to use a really long pry bar or pipe to pry the A-arm down some more. What brand are those struts?

I wouldn't try removing that stud. It's in a bushing as is a bitch to get out.

Edit: OK, saw that they're Detroit Axle. I'd try contacting their tech support and send them the pic of the difference. Maybe they're from China?
 
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Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,685
Tampa Bay Area, FL
Could you fit the jack under the strut mount, lift it just a bit and use the truck's weight to compress the spring, allowing you to maneuver the lower mount onto that stud?
 

zaid3ssaf

Original poster
Member
Jan 1, 2020
151
Midwest
Sure look like they're longer :confused:. Try to use a really long pry bar or pipe to pry the A-arm down some more. What brand are those struts?
yeah they're longer by about an inch. No amount of wiggling helped getting them in. Initially, I thought since the old struts are worn out, they'd be shorter. But once the weight of the car isn't there anymore, it shouldn't matter, right?

Could you fit the jack under the strut mount, lift it just a bit and use the truck's weight to compress the spring, allowing you to maneuver the lower mount onto that stud?
Didnt help :/
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
I've replaced the lower mount recently, I'm on vacation but planned on a "How to" when I returned.

It appears your issue is your new strut aseembly is longer. Stand them both up and measure the height, or turn them upside down and measure the difference in length to the circular recess near the bottom.

The way I change mine is I place the frame on jackstands and let both front wheels hang in the air.

Then I loosen the two upper strut mounting bolts on both sides which lets the suspension drop a little more.

I don't have to loosen the sway bar links this way, just a little push on a prybar and all is good.

Your strut assembly looks way off by the pic, looks too long, I agree to contact the shipper.
 
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zaid3ssaf

Original poster
Member
Jan 1, 2020
151
Midwest
Your strut assembly looks way off by the pic, looks too long, I agree to contact the shipper.

I could put the old one back in easily. I think the problem is that the strut is longer and the sway bar is thick (2.75 in if i remember correctly), so I'm just going to send these back. Hope they take them since one has scuffs/grease
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
If one tire is on the ground, it will keep the opposite lower control arm from fully extending. Having both suspended in air with both struts loose, it should only need a slight lift with a pry bar.

But sounds like you have a grasp on the situation. I still have my old ones and can measure them Monday early AM.
 

Mektek

Member
May 2, 2017
656
FL
Use a spring compressor and compress the spring just enough to install. I find it hard to believe that there is another strut cartridge that is longer but otherwise identical to the correct one - but I suppose it's possible.

Hey, you got a one inch lift for no extra charge:celebrate:
 

mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
7,736
Tampa Bay Area
If you watch the Video at around 11:15 and forwards, you'll be able to see how the OEM (Stock As a Clock) Length Bilsteins install with no complications. Missing the Strut Bolt Hole by Only 1" ...might as well be A MILE.

 
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Mektek

Member
May 2, 2017
656
FL
Seeing the OP's photo plus the video reminds me of how much a blessing it is to be in the south, where the rust monster does not come :satan:
My original struts are a bit dusty, but rust free. And after nearly 18 years they still work fine.. :2thumbsup:
 
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zaid3ssaf

Original poster
Member
Jan 1, 2020
151
Midwest
If one tire is on the ground, it will keep the opposite lower control arm from fully extending. Having both suspended in air with both struts loose, it should only need a slight lift with a pry bar.
That makes sense. I lifted one tire at a time but had the sway bar link disconnected. That way, the suspension was not depending on the other side. The lower control arm extended till it was stopped by the frame. The problem was that the sway bar was in the way. Do you think if I lift both tires, would allow to get the struts in without untying the sway bar links or dropping down the sway bar?

Use a spring compressor and compress the spring just enough to install. I find it hard to believe that there is another strut cartridge that is longer but otherwise identical to the correct one - but I suppose it's possible.
Would there be enough room to install the struts with the spring compressors on?

If you watch the Video at around 11:15 and forwards, you'll be able to see how the OEM Length Bilstein's install with no complications. Missing the Strut Bolt Hole by Only 1" ...might as well be A MILE.
Yeah it looks hassle free as it can be.
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
Maybe the previous owner installed struts from the TBSS? Are the TBSS assemblies shorter overall or is it just the spring? Or both?
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
Do you think if I lift both tires, would allow to get the struts in without untying the sway bar links or dropping down the sway bar?


That's how I do it. Also, loosen the two mounting bolts above the strut tower (on both sides, driver and passenger) to lower the strut a little. Don't remove the center nut that holds the spring.

That being said, I would stop what you're doing and figure out why one is 1" longer.

It looks like your old ones might be from a TBSS.

Going to a strut that's 1' longer will require an alignment. Can you post a pic of the current ride height with the tire on the ground?
 

zaid3ssaf

Original poster
Member
Jan 1, 2020
151
Midwest
That's how I do it. Also, loosen the two mounting bolts above the strut tower (on both sides, driver and passenger) to lower the strut a little. Don't remove the center nut that holds the spring.

That being said, I would stop what you're doing and figure out why one is 1" longer.

It looks like your old ones might be from a TBSS.

Going to a strut that's 1' longer will require an alignment. Can you post a pic of the current ride height with the tire on the ground?
Ah I wish I took pictures but I got the new ones in!! Here's how I did it:
1) Jacked up the vehicle on both sides,
2) Loosened the lower sway bar links on both sides and pried the sway bar down and out of the way, 3) Loosened the strut bolt on the lower control arm,
4) Loosened up the upper control arm pinch bolt
5) Loosened the top 2 nuts of the strut and got the assembly out while still attached to the bracket
6) Removed the old strut assembly from the bracket and installed a new one in
7) installed the new strut assembly (with bracket) by having the top 2 bolts finger tight with plenty of room to wiggle
8) With the sway bar out of the way, they go in easy. I had to bring the lower control arm up with a jack
9) put everything back in reverse order but I did the strut bracket pinch bolt last.

I will take measurement tonight and report back. I think they might've been struts from tbss since no one had my problem on the reviews.
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
If you now have struts that are 1" longer, I would change what you need to capitalize on the new alignment you are most likely going to need.

Check your tie rod ends and lower control arm bushings for play.
 

zaid3ssaf

Original poster
Member
Jan 1, 2020
151
Midwest
If you now have struts that are 1" longer, I would change what you need to capitalize on the new alignment you are most likely going to need.

Check your tie rod ends and lower control arm bushings for play.
Would that something the alignment shop would take care of?
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
Would that something the alignment shop would take care of?

I'm sure they would at a nice price.

The point I'm making is, you likely have different camber now with the 1" lift, and will most likely require an alignment. If you end up changing your tie rod ends, that would require another alignment.


If you need to change your lower control arm bushings, that will mess up the alignment also.

Just thinking ahead, unsure of your suspension's current state of health.
 
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zaid3ssaf

Original poster
Member
Jan 1, 2020
151
Midwest
I'm sure they would at a nice price.

The point I'm making is, you likely have different camber now with the 1" lift, and will most likely require an alignment. If you end up changing your tie rod ends, that would require another alignment.


If you need to change your lower control arm bushings, that will mess up the alignment also.

Just thinking ahead, unsure of your suspension's current state of health.
Gotcha! I checked the tie rod ends when I changed the ball joints about 5 months ago. It not sure how to check the lower control arm bushing, but I believe it was pretty solid when I tried to twist on it or move it inside or out. I'll have to double check
 
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zaid3ssaf

Original poster
Member
Jan 1, 2020
151
Midwest
It looks like your old ones might be from a TBSS.

Going to a strut that's 1' longer will require an alignment. Can you post a pic of the current ride height with the tire on the ground?

The old strut from the bottom to the top is 17.5 in (excluding the two top mounting screws)
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
My OE springs with the previous pair of struts, measures 17.5" from a SWB 2002 Envoy.

Screenshot_20200810-061943_Gallery.jpg

Screenshot_20200810-061852_Gallery.jpg


I have no idea what struts you have being 1" longer.
 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,344
Ottawa, ON
Depending on where they are longer, they may lower or lift your truck by an inch. If longer between the lower spring perch and bottom, it will lift your truck. If between the lower and upper spring perches, it will lower it (less spring compression).
 
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