How to install an electronic trailer brake controller

[sawicksted]

This is my first article submission and is only a draft so ........here goes..

This is a pretty easy DIY compared to many things.

Time: 2 hours ( tops )
Difficulty: Easy to medium easy
Tools: Philips screw driver, wire strippers, solder gun, drill, lighter
Supplies: EBrake Controller unit, Solder, electrical tape, zip ties


Step 1 Remove lower dash panel ( 2 trim screws )
View attachment 29456

Step 2 Locate 4 factory wires for electronic brake
-They have a white label attached to them indicating color codes and functions
-The ends have electrical tape on them
View attachment 29457
View attachment 29458


****Next decide where you are going to mount your brake controller left or right of the steering column so you can determine how much wire you need from the controller location to the factory ends. Make sure you leave enough extra wire for ease of soldering and final mounting location.

Step 3 Match up wires from controler to factory wires
-Use the wiring diagram supplied with controller unit
View attachment 29459


Step 4 Solder joints one at a time and heat shrink or protect with electrical tape
-take your time and make sure your solder joints are solid
-you could use wire connectors here(there are many types) instead of solder
-test the controller to make sure it works properly at this point
-you can hook up to your trailer or get a friend and a multimeter

Step 5 wrap wires in tape or protective coating to avoid chaffing and run to mounting location.
View attachment 29461


Step 6 Reinstall lower dash panel
Step 7 Mark location for mounting bracket on lower dash panel
Step 8 Drill small pilot holes for mounting screws
-be very careful not to drill too deep -should be no more than 1/16th or 1/8th deep
-go slow!!!!!


Step 9 Mount the bracket
View attachment 29460


Step 10 Attach the controller to the bracket
View attachment 29462
Step 11 Secure the wire with zip ties so it won't fall down from behind the dash when driving
All Done!!:wootwoot:

 

[RedEnvoyDenali]

Nice write up. I don't need an electric brake controller but if I did this would certainly take all the guess work out of it.

You may want to try another topic you aced this one.

 

[sawicksted]

You may want to try another topic you aced this one.[/QUOTE]

Thanks man...

It's an easy upgrade and you can pull a lot more stuff if you need to!!

I think I am going to try A Running Board Swap/install next.


Cheers,
Scott

 

[TollKeeper]

Only thing I would want to add to the above instructions is that these instructions work well for time delayed controllers.

However, mounting placement for inertia controllers might need a different surface, and that you will need to refer to your instructions for the angles, and the degrees of angles, that are allowed. For example, my controller (Tekonsha Prodigy P2) allows for a 70*, and anything in a relative field of 10* will not allow the controller to adjust for hill climbs/descends. So a max controller angle of 60*, or less, is recommended.

The dash plate where the OP mounted his Brake Controller is to close, in angle, for a good mount, per the instructions. I had to mount to a flatter surface.

Also, with inertia controllers, it is important to mount them right side up, and not upside down. Time delay controllers don't care.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

I need to mount mine sometime.

 

[sawicksted]

Only thing I would want to add to the above instructions is that these instructions work well for time delayed controllers.

However, mounting placement for inertia controllers might need a different surface, and that you will need to refer to your instructions for the angles, and the degrees of angles, that are allowed. For example, my controller (Tekonsha Prodigy P2) allows for a 70*, and anything in a relative field of 10* will not allow the controller to adjust for hill climbs/descends. So a max controller angle of 60*, or less, is recommended.

The dash plate where the OP mounted his Brake Controller is to close, in angle, for a good mount, per the instructions. I had to mount to a flatter surface.

Also, with inertia controllers, it is important to mount them right side up, and not upside down. Time delay controllers don't care.

Yep You're absolutely correct about the inertia controllers.
In this case I mounted it upside down so I could adjust the small slider easily but that was just a personal preference.

 

[DocBrown]

I haven't seen this. Nice writeup! I would suggest that soldering the connections as being optional. I use wire nuts and tape them up. A good controller, like a Prodigy, gets moved from vehicle to vehicle. Mine has been in 3 different trucks.

 

[pell]

Great post to find the the wires for the controller. I must admit the last one I did was in a 94 full sized Bronco. It had a receiving pigtail in it, all I needed was a readily available cable, and it was plug and go. Figured the 06 TB would go that way but in the end it worked out.

I must admit pulling my 5000 lb, hybrid 22 ft star-craft trailer was a little different than using my F-250 super-duty with 2 wheel drive. It was surprising when the clutch fan pulled in and sound like the the engine was blowing up. Of course it was by no means a rocket going up hills but it did the job. I did not push it over 4500 on the hills. Temp/oil pressure seemed fine.