How long should I let the oil pick up soak in Berryman's?

c good

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Dec 8, 2011
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Been getting random low oil pressure warning when at idle. Not all the time but I'm pretty sure it's a problem. Installed a new AC/Delco pressure sending sensor. It didn't help. I haven't hooked up an actual pressure gauge but I'm sure it's actually low. I've watched almost all of the You Tube videos by Kevin Nadeau. Pretty sure I have the clogged pick up screen problem. Short of pulling the pan, or drilling a hole in the bottom of my oil pan (as I saw in another thread here on GMT) I'm thinking of trying the Chem Dip soak. Hope it's not the O-ring.

Poured in 3 quarts of Berrymans 0996 this morning. How long should I let it soak? A couple of days OK? Thanks for any input.
 
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mrrsm

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The Short Answer is right on the side plate of the Berryman's 3/4 Gallon Container: 3-4 Hours ---TOPS---

However, this topic is also covered to the point of exhaustion... here:


... and is touched upon here:

 

c good

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Thanks for the reply MRRSM. UPDATED.....I followed your suggestion and let it soak for 3 Hrs and 45 minutes! :smile: Drained the 3 1/2 quarts of Berrymans 0996 out and let drain for 45 minutes. Installed the oil plug. Poured 2 quarts of some unopened till now 10/30 castrol that I had sitting around for years. Let that sit in the oil pan without starting while I went and picked up some Super Tech 5/30 synthetic blend (it's the cheapest they had) and a cheap filter.

Drained the two quarts of Castrol, filled new filter with oil and installed. Filled crankcase oil with the Super Tech 5/30.

Started it up and noticed idiot gauge was reading a little higher right from the start. Took it out for my usual drive that would normally trigger the low oil pressure warning at idle.....and SO FAR SO GOOD! I'm not holding my breath until I put some more miles on it tomorrow but I think it may have done the trick! Thanks again to all for the info. Cam (c good)
 

Mektek

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May 2, 2017
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better to save the originally drained used oil and use it to rinse out the chemdip. Why discard new oil?
 

c good

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better to save the originally drained used oil and use it to rinse out the chemdip. Why discard new oil?
I thought about it but it had about 4000 miles on it. Pretty dirty. Didn't want to pour it back through the engine. I'll reuse the Castrol in my old Briggs and Stratton lawowers.😀
 
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mrrsm

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The apparent good behavior of the engine AFTER using the Berryman's Chem-Dip Treatment may also be having a "Placebo" affect upon you ...without definitive proof coming from Before and After Oil Pressure measurements. Consider using an Analog Oil Pressure Gauge and remove all doubt.

Harbor Freight carries a decent Basic Oil Pressure Gauge Kit with Better Quality ones out there on Amazon. You will also require an M16X1.5MM to 1/8" NPT Adapter installed on the Plugged Port located on the Front, Right, Lower Engine Block. Use the Crush Washer to seal the Adapter...Carefully. @MAY03LT demonstrates the value of using a Good Gauge,with the Special Oil Gallery Adapter and he shows these procedures quite nicely in these Videos:


 
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c good

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Excellent info. I'm going to add a gauge in the near future. I did drive another 30 miles in the Envoy today. I had numerous stops and long idle periods and I did not get the low oil pressure warning. In the past before the Berryman's soak I would have gotten the warning at least 4 or 5 times while idling. I used the WalMart SuperTech 5w/30 Synthetic Blend oil and a low cost Fram filter after the soak. How long would you run this oil and filter? Or should I just do a drain, fill with better oil, and filter replace right away? Thanks again for all the input.
 
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mrrsm

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I like the sound of "Right Away" anytime Mobil1 5W-30 and Mobil1 or K&N Oil Filters are part of that expression... and BTW... I would rather take a Turkish Bath with my Dead Mother than install a Fram Oil Filter on ANY Motor... EVER.

As far as putting 'Dirty Motor Oil' BACK into an Engine after performing the Berryman's Chem-Dip Treatment? ...quand même... (It just isn't done). That would by like wearing your socks for a week before putting on a Brand New Pair of Red High Top Converse Sneakers... and then lacing them up REAL TIGHT. :>(

 
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c good

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I agree MRRSM! I always use Mobil One Filters. This fram was just a cheap temporary one for catching some of the sludge after the soak. (as you recommended in your very informative and helpful link) I've got about 50 miles on the oil and filter now. I have been running the Valvoline Synthetic Blend 5w/30 in the past because it says it's for high mileage engines. Envoy just turned 188K miles. Should I go with Mobil one full synthetic now?

I'm trying to "unsee"/"unread" the Turkish Bath comment! :smile: :smile: :smile:
 

mrrsm

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TJBaker57

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Don't be too surprised if you get the low oil pressure warning back after changing out that oil filter. In general, the tighter the filtration, the greater the pressure drop across the filter.
 

c good

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Don't be too surprised if you get the low oil pressure warning back after changing out that oil filter. In general, the tighter the filtration, the greater the pressure drop across the filter.
That is good to know. Fingers crossed it holds OK....Thanks for the heads up.
 

mrrsm

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Be aware that another Member went "Whole Hog" using 2.5 Gallons of Berryman's Chem-Dip... but perhaps not long enough on the "Soak Time" to thoroughly dissolve the "Stalagtite" Carbon Flakes and Chunks nested along the bottom of the Main Crankshaft Cradle. Soon afterwards... many of those "Chunks" fell loose and sadly repopulated his Oil Pick Up Tube, bringing back the Congested Blockage that reduces Oil Pressure. His experience with this issue is covered in the linked Thread:


You, on the other hand, seem to have only used just enough Berryman's Chem-Dip to reach the Lower Neck and Screen portion of the Oil Pick Up Tube... and so you may fair a little better. High Mileage Atlas Motors with serious Gas Blow-By via Carbon and Gas-Gum Trapped Compression Rings will eventually become Carbon Mung Toilets over time. So the only real way to clean them is to use the Right Solvents with the Crankcase-Oil Pan removed after an Engine Removal and having it inverted on an Engine Stand for total access to the entire Bottom End.
 
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c good

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I'm at 188 K miles and the atlas seems to be pretty solid so far. A good friend of mine was the original owner and she was an employee of GM. The oil changes were done on schedule at the dealership she worked at. I bought it with around 140 k and have changed oil religiously between 4-5 k miles. I was using what I thought was decent oil with the Valvoline Syn Blend but I will be swapping to the Mobil One with this oil change.

Are there any oil additives that you would recommend for that will help with this buildup? I use Techron fuel additive to help with the injectors and it seems to work well with them. Just wondering if an oil additive might be good preventative maintenance.
 

mrrsm

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A tiny, On Topic rant...

Oil Additives is NOT The Answer...

The GM Atlas Vortec 4, 5 and 6 Cylinder Engines are unique in their need for the 5W-30 Oil Viscosity due to the design of their Helical Cam Phaser constantly being adjusted by variable oil pressure governed by the CPAS with a 0-25 Degree range of freedom. Yours fits this category as an Early Model design; perhaps less so for the later years.

This makes these VVT Engines subject to being ambushed by the improper use of Higher-Thicker viscosity oils ... and often Dirtier Motor Oil than should be allowed that will clog up the S/S Screens on the CPAS and cause the Engine to stumble in various RPM Ranges as a result.

The importance of having MORE regular Oil Changes NOT less as an Engine ages comes into sharp focus when you consider that it is the Well - Worn. Leftover Motor Oil down inside the Crankcase that must Absorb, Combine with, Dissolve and Hold Onto all of the Un-Burned Gas Blow-By Residue and the resulting Black Carbon Mung Build Up.

Lastly, an enormous amount of Gasoline Fumes will also leech out of the Old Motor Oil over time into the PCV and this can skew the A/F Balance as this Unmetered Fuel enters the Air Stream through the PCV Tube into the Resonator, Throttle Body and right back inside Engine. This can make for a situation where the O2 Sensors cannot figure out a proper STFT & LTFT on many High Mileage Motors after inhaling Gasoline Fumes in addition to EFI contributions to each Cylinder.

If you think I'm crazy... Pull out the Dipstick and smell the end of it. The presence of a Heavy Fuel Scent should encourage people to eschew trying to "Wring Out Every Last Mile" just to avoid the inconvenience of having to Change the Motor Oil. Take pity on an Engine that has given such an amazing amount of service and thus, does not deserve such ill treatment.

THIS Video will Demonstrate just How BAD This Problem can GET as an Engine in DESPERATE NEED of a Berryman's Chem-Dip Soaking for around Four Hours before Re-Assembly:

 
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c good

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Dec 8, 2011
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Good info. I'm not trying to extend my oil change intervals by using an additive. I never have used an additive. I always figured that regular oil changes would help avoid this problem. I'm just wondering if there is anything that I can add that will help with the cleaning process now that it seems I have some carbon buildup in the crankcase that is clogging my pick up screen.

Also, when things stabilize, what would you recommend my service intervals be now that I'm changing to Mobil One? I love this Envoy. It rides nice, plenty of power, pulls my little trailer, gets me to my 4x4 desert camping places with no troubles, all with decent fuel economy. Want to keep it going for as long as I can. Thanks again for all the amazing info.
 

Mektek

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May 2, 2017
656
FL
When using something like chemdip which should normally not be mixed in oil, pour it through the dipstick tube so it goes directly into the oilpan.
Pouring the old oil through the dipstick tube to use as a rinse for the chemdip is no worse than having the oil in the oilpan before you drained it. Of course, be careful to avoid external dirt and debris from falling into the drain pan if you're going to do that.

Mobil 1 is a pretty good oil. Not quite as good as the high dollar PAO synthetics but fine for most applications. Apparently the oil life monitor is pretty good in our trucks, so generally you can rely on the warning to change the oil as long as you reset it at every oilchange.
With a good synthetic 5000 miles on a well running engine is very safe if you choose to ignore the OLM.
 
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c good

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This was the drained Super tech rinse/interim oil after approx 50 mile . A very few small pieces of carbon I strained out was all there was.

I installed new Mobil 1 Filter and 7 quarts of 5w/30 Mobil 1 oil. Drove it for about 15-20 miles. Long periods of idle. Idiot gauge did not drop or waiver. Previously before the Berryman's soak it would have flashed numerous warnings at idle.

I will be adding a true oil pressure gauge next. Thanks everyone for all the great advice. So far so good.
 

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c good

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Hey TJ.. I agree......I saw that YouTube guy that drained the oil, started it up....CRINGE!!! And it still read 40 psi.....definitely does not instill confidence. Will not be driving it at all until I get the real oil pressure gauge installed.
 

mrrsm

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If you still have your Fram Oil Filter... performing an Autopsy on its minimal fan-folded innards might also reveal the presence of any accumulated "Carbon Coffee Grounds" detritus that achieved freedom courtesy the Berryman's Chem-Dip Treatment. A lack of too much of this solid contamination present within the Filter Segments might give credence to following the extended "Soak Time" of closer to (4) Hours to allow the Chemical(s) enough time to work their Magic... Dissolving all that Carbon back into a liquid state.
 
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Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
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It's possible that most of it just dissolved in the dip.
 

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