How hard can a 5.3 engine install be on gmt360

Sprung Monkey

Original poster
Member
Oct 12, 2017
350
Al
How hard can a 5.3 engine install be on gmt360 07 Saab97x 5.3i

I called a few mechanic shops that where referred by jasper rebuilt engines.

1.These mechanics insist on buying the engine themselves so I assume they are padding the bill, kindof low down since I know what I would’ve paid $2850. shipped.

2.couple of the 5 I called said they don’t work on Saabs.

3.the other 2 stated jasper doesn’t even offer a rebuilt, I did try to explain it’s a 5.3 gm engine. What really surprised me was 29-30 hours of larbor at $129. per hour.I had to ask many times for this amount of time.



How could it possiablly take 30 hours are they padding again? or am I missing something here.



I stopped by 2 places first guy on list said he won’t /can’t and just doesn’t listen watch a 15 second video he lost all my confidence after that said he has to see it in person this guy was the first to say no Saab or jagur. I could remove the hub caps and rear emblem and say it's a envoy.

Anyone here have a decent engine swap video, I search did’nt see much,did see a man he pulled engine/trans & transfer case as one.he was complaining that’s is extremely difficult.



I’ve read GM designed the engine to be removed from the top while the body stays on frame.

I haven’t yet confirmed the engine is terminal (it probally is) just like to know worst case senaero. any tips on a 5.3 engine removal & install would be usefull.

Edit: can a used engine on engine stand be compression tested? do used engine sellers just say something like we tested the compression before removing engine and you gonna have to trust me.

thanks
 

mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
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Without one scintilla of discouragement meant in passing... Observe THIS Fearless VOP (Video Original Poster) as he works on his Saab 97x with a Late Model 5.3L Engine being fairly well dismantled during this One hour Video. He seems possessed of a decent mechanical skill set and since the vehicle is his own ride, he wades into the job of trying to perform a DOD Delete and a Texas Speed & Performance Camshaft and Valve Train Upgrades installation under very claustrophobic conditions, but without evincing the slightest reluctance or any signs of diminished enthusiasm.

Everything you can see him doing would probably help doing during a complete Engine R&R ...so imagine all of these sub-tasks being performed by a Paid Mechanic over 3-4 Working Days, with normal breaks and lunches thrown in and it is easy to realize why it might take that long to complete a serious piece of Warranty Work. I played this video at 2X Speed and it seemed like an eternity... but spend some time with this ...and you'll get the idea.

Many of the steps the VOP covers herein would be skipped during a "Full Motor Pull" but they would have be added on the back end of the work when it comes time to separate the 4L60E from the back of the LS Motor in order to finally get the Old LS Engine out.... and then ANOTHER LS Motor being put right back into the Saab. At the very least, you'll get a pretty cool peek over the shoulder of someone actually doing the hard mechanical labor involved on a vehicle that is very similar to your own:

 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
Don't tell them it's a Saab. Say it's a 5.3 Trailblazer. I used to do that when getting parts.
 

Sprung Monkey

Original poster
Member
Oct 12, 2017
350
Al
mrrsm good info however I would like to see how hard it is to remove and replace the whole engine.
I',m thinking the hardness is the oil pan w/ the front haft shafts.
dam I totally missed the man I thought he was banished from yboob things appear to be getting good now.
MM yeah should have never mentioned saab. 30 hours seams excessive. thanks Guys for advice.
 

aaserv

Member
Dec 1, 2019
408
N of Baton Rouge, La.
Most shops just look at a Flat Rate book which estimates the hours for each job and go by that. The book naturally gives the maximum amount of time to cover their azz for errors ,etc. For instance every exhaust manifold bolt may come right out or any number between 1 and 8 can break off... a zillion things could go wrong but yea 30 hours seems excessive. I dont know about for 4wd but if it was a 2 wheel drive no way would i pay 30 hours labor...or 20 for that matter. If the shop cant do it in 2 8 hour days they got to much work and not enough mechanics or they are just not very experienced..
1 thing you may want to plan in advance is new motor mounts.... Several threads on this but i believe factory may be NLA and people are using something else....Dont recall exactly but Id look into it now. Would hate to go to all that trouble to put a new motor on worn mounts......or Dormans..
 

Sprung Monkey

Original poster
Member
Oct 12, 2017
350
Al
yeah I'm being informed that 30+ hours is a way of saying we don't/can't do this job.dam I was asking as nice as possible. will be watching videos apparently it's easier to remove the engine & trans w/out the transfer case.
I remember a mechanic telling me the topmost trans bolt on truck & cars requires a 5' extension.
not sure if I can put enough power on a extension that long.I don't have air powered tools.
thanks aaserv &(others for chiming in) for tip on the mounts I'll be searching out which is the preferred.
it's been more than 10 years however I need to go to the drag racing track and hope I run into some Buddies. meanwhile I'm preparing for just myself.
 

Sprung Monkey

Original poster
Member
Oct 12, 2017
350
Al
MM you are always correct guess you saw this coming.

I requested a quote from powertrain for short block as a Saab w/ vin # there response we don’t have a engine same response from jasper.

Rerequested w/ same vin# at power train this time I told them it’s a trailblazer now they have a short block $3199.

w/ this level of stupidity how can I trust them building a engines,dam.
I’m a Bolton Guy and trust my skilles more than a mass rebuilder of engines.



doe’snt the vin# reveal the make of vehicle.the salesperson male female or mixture probably the later, must have searched there site guess what there’s no dropdown tab for Saab, it just lost it’s commission along w/ my confidence.



I’d actuelly prefer a place that has a little bit of a clue or a tad bit of walking around sense, dam.

I’d actuely prefer a DOD deleted choice of cam of,lifters & vally pan. Please recommend a decent place for engine.thanks
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
I dunno since I'm in Canuckistan. I'd look into a local rebuilder instead of a mass supplier like Jasper. To them, it's an LS engine, period. They'll rebuild it to your liking without DOD.

The Saab is such an oddball truck that a lot of places just don't know them or have listings for them, hence saying it's a TB.
 

Sprung Monkey

Original poster
Member
Oct 12, 2017
350
Al
You know RockAuto offers long blocks, right?
I do now thanks . I feel kindof stupid because most of the car parts come from either RA or amazon.
kindof leary w/ the $610. core charge.
these RA rebuilds still have the dod plate.I'd prefer a none dod.w/out the cylinder deactivation.

are the RA motor mount OK to use? looks like they want you to change the trans mount at same time.

edit so is it easier to pull both engine and trans?
thanks
 
Last edited:

mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
7,639
Tampa Bay Area
Okay... These two videos cover the R&R of JUST the AWD from a 97x 5.3L (These Guys called it "An AWD Delete") and you can see from what they removed ahead of time that the Engine & Transmission probably could be coaxed out as 'a set' right through the Front Door as well... and they eventually DO. After seeing this Debacle... I have to laugh at the issue of it 'taking 30 Hours of Labor'... being even slightly egregious:



Oh Yeah.... And "Look MA.... NO JACK STANDS"

Here are the rest of the LS Engine Performance Re-Build, Re-Installation and Test Drive Vidz:




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QfmTXJAKGhA&list=PLfDjUHyl0xaJ98SXz9hcMQT7UaQw45s3k&index=6
 
Last edited:

C-ya

Member
Aug 24, 2012
1,098
Get the "new" engine and get a tune to turn DOD off. Best thing I did for my 5.3.
 

JayArr

Member
Sep 24, 2018
504
Mission BC Canada
I remember a mechanic telling me the topmost trans bolt on truck & cars requires a 5' extension.

Thats true, I've done this a couple of times. You can get a 1/2" three pack from Performance Tools that'll do the job, The bolts don't take that much torque to break loose, I don't recall having to use anything larger than a regular socket wrench.
 

Sprung Monkey

Original poster
Member
Oct 12, 2017
350
Al
is this even possiable to leave the oil pan & front diff, suspens. in vehicle? anyone done a engine swap this method?

 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
I suppose it can be done. Comments say that you have to unbolt the diff and move it an inch or so to get to the pan bolts above it.

Never thought of doing it that way. Makes sense. Should also work on the 4.2L for those interested.
 

Reprise

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Jul 22, 2015
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Comments say that you have to unbolt the diff and move it an inch or so to get to the pan bolts above it.

I can confirm, based on my experience. There is *no* access to the D/S oil pan bolts without moving that diff, on the V8. It covers up access from the bottom and from the side.

Which means unbolting / moving the diff (and mine was stuck; I had to pry it off)
Which means center axle is coming out
Which means center disconnect is coming out (mine was cake, but many aren't)
Which means axles are coming out

I'd also ask myself if I'd want to follow the advice of a guy who has what looks like a brand new engine in his truck, but has aluminum particles throughout the oiling system. "50 miles", if I heard him correctly? Not sure if that cam lobe he pointed out is wiped, but *something* sure went south...

Not saying I'm perfect, but I rebuilt the top half of my 6.0L in the Sierra, and didn't have any particles when I changed my oil at 50-ish miles (or since then).

Yes, the windage tray would be 'sort of' protecting the crank, etc... but the pickup tube is still attached. I'd envision major finagling of the engine on that hoist to get the pickup assembly free of the pan. And if the diff, etc., is still attached to the pan... then the pan can't be moved to help free the pickup.

On reassembly... the pan alignment (especially to the rear cover and trans bellhousing cover) is considered 'critical' by GM (they even stamp it on the pan). Again, I can see this being an issue, if the diff is still attached to the pan.

Not saying "it can't be done" (see: 'not perfect', above)... but I'd rather just remove the diff / axles, myself.
 

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