When installing a new thread on clutch to the waterpump, how critical is the torque spec? IF I just snug it on to the point that the pulley slips under the belt, is that enought?
How critical is fan clutch torque?
- Thread starter Chilly
- Start date
Mooseman
Moderator
Not at all critical. Some even leave it loose and let the pulley torque it down. Use anti-seize on the threads.
For the Plastic Fan Flange to the outside of the Electro-Viscous Aluminum Body... Snugged up is Good Enough.
For "The Jesus Nut" to the Threaded outer portion of the Water Pump... Snugged Tight is Fine. Once it is on... it practically takes an Act of God to remove it.
But... for Torquing the Water Pump Flange to the Engine Block...
In a word: VERY
@Chilly... The Very First Port of Call at GMT Nation involves getting a Complete, Digital Service Manual for your particular Vehicle as graciously collected and provided to all of us by @Mooseman via THIS Link.
https://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/need-service-manuals-get-them-here.361/
The Most Important Idea about Tightening Grade 8 Steel Fasteners into the Cast Aluminum Engine Block and its Bolt Ups is... Be VERY Careful and Follow the Recommended Torque Tables listed in your Digital Manual. As Military Rated, Trained Aviation Machinist's Mates... We were shown many examples of just how easy it is to OVER-TORQUE Components into Aluminum Engine sections by Guessing. Invariably... The Fasteners were always Over -Torqued.
The last thing you want to do is to have to Drill out and perform either Heli-Coil or TIME-SERT Repair(s) on that Water Pump Flange under some very difficult to access conditions. GOOD, Small ratcheting Inch Pound Torque Wrenches abound on Amazon and eBay and are worth their tiny weight in GOLD.
For "The Jesus Nut" to the Threaded outer portion of the Water Pump... Snugged Tight is Fine. Once it is on... it practically takes an Act of God to remove it.
But... for Torquing the Water Pump Flange to the Engine Block...
In a word: VERY
@Chilly... The Very First Port of Call at GMT Nation involves getting a Complete, Digital Service Manual for your particular Vehicle as graciously collected and provided to all of us by @Mooseman via THIS Link.
https://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/need-service-manuals-get-them-here.361/
The Most Important Idea about Tightening Grade 8 Steel Fasteners into the Cast Aluminum Engine Block and its Bolt Ups is... Be VERY Careful and Follow the Recommended Torque Tables listed in your Digital Manual. As Military Rated, Trained Aviation Machinist's Mates... We were shown many examples of just how easy it is to OVER-TORQUE Components into Aluminum Engine sections by Guessing. Invariably... The Fasteners were always Over -Torqued.
The last thing you want to do is to have to Drill out and perform either Heli-Coil or TIME-SERT Repair(s) on that Water Pump Flange under some very difficult to access conditions. GOOD, Small ratcheting Inch Pound Torque Wrenches abound on Amazon and eBay and are worth their tiny weight in GOLD.
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Thanks guys. My water pump bolts were torqued to specs at 89 inch pounds. I did not have the right tools to torque the fan clutch to the threaded pump shaft, so I attached a piece of dog chain to one of pulley nuts and then attached the chain to the front lift bracket just above the alternator. Then I used a small pipe wrench with an extension to torque the clutch to the water pump shaft. I probably over torqued it. Nothing snapped or broke and when I fire it up in a couple hours we'll know if it either leaks or wobbles. Thanks again for the replies.
littleblazer
Member
- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,265