High Frequency Vibration

bfairweath

Original poster
Member
Oct 20, 2013
95
Neenah, WI
Hello All. I'm relatively new here. I used to follow the OS pretty regularly. Lost track of it for a few years. When I came back, it was quite evident that the brains of the operation was gone. Took me a while to find this site.

Anyways, I have a very high frequency vibration that I think is coming from the front end - I'd almost call it grinding rather than vibration. It's pretty subtle, but enough that the wife noticed it (she drives the TB most of the time). Through some troubleshooting, I've found that vibration is present when the truck is driven straight or turning right. I can move the wheel ever so slightly to the left and the vibration stops. I can make the vibration start and stop by weaving right and left within a traffic lane, it takes that little of a change in direction. Right = vibration, left = no vibration.

I should mention that I had the left front end apart several months ago to change the differential seal (thanks to this site and off road TB). The vibration didn't start with this repair, it was fine for few months before it started.

From searching this site and reading a lot of other posts, I'm thinking left front wheel hub. I jacked up both sides and spun the front wheels - no grinding sound. Not that surprising since there is very little load on the bearings with the wheel off the ground. Truck has about 114,000 miles on it. I've done no work on the front end other than the left diff seal. There is quite a bit of squeaking and clunking in the front. Sway bar end links are on the list of things to do.

What do you guys think?
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Welcome! I think you researched well and nailed it in one! 5% chance it's the other side bearing since they can sometimes start failing and fool you (happened once to me). You might consider changing both at once because statistics have been that many noisy ones are followed within 10K miles by the other side starting to squawk.
 

bfairweath

Original poster
Member
Oct 20, 2013
95
Neenah, WI
Thanks for the response Roadie. How long do you think I have before it fails miserably? I doubt I can get at it for a couple of weeks (it's been a couple weeks already). Doesn't appear to be getting much worse.
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
I've read people drive on noisy ones for well over 1000 miles. Just have a plan in case it gets worse quickly. I've got a video of one of mine that I drove on past noisy and into downright scary/wobbly so I could get back to pavement from 20 miles offroad. I had a spare with me, but it was cold and I was tired and I was prepared to change it on the trail at any time if I needed to (no 4000 foot dropoffs that trip).
 

bfairweath

Original poster
Member
Oct 20, 2013
95
Neenah, WI
I'll get a Timken hub on order (along with 35mm socket). Weather is getting cold here in WI. These types of repairs in an unheated garage = bloody knuckles.
 

CaptainXL

Member
Dec 4, 2011
2,445
bfairweath said:
I'll get a Timken hub on order (along with 35mm socket)

Don't forget a torque wrench. It's necessary in order to keep the bearing from failing prematurely.
 

bfairweath

Original poster
Member
Oct 20, 2013
95
Neenah, WI
Got one of those, but thanks for the tip about torqueing properly.

Can help but think I did something to that hub when I had it apart to change the diff seal. Too coincidental that it failed two months later.
 

Robbabob

Member
Dec 10, 2012
1,096
bfairweath said:
Right = vibration, left = no vibration.

I thought the vibration (primarily or typically) went away when a load was put on a hub. Right turn puts a load on the left tire, Left turn puts a load on the right tire. This logic would put the bad hub on the right side. I always found it odd, "the loaded wheel didn't get louder," that's why it always stuck with me.

I almost sent this as a private to the roadie so I wouldn't muddy this thread. Then figured I might as well put this comment out there to learn in front of everyone.

Anyway, let's hear it....:undecided:
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Normally, the hub on the outside of the turn gets more stress, and makes the loudest noise. A rule of thumb on all vehicles that works almost every time. But there are two sides of any bearing race, and depending on which surface has the most damage, the noise could be coming from the opposite side that you'd expect.

I suppose I should disassemble one of my old bad ones to see what the race really looks like.
 

bfairweath

Original poster
Member
Oct 20, 2013
95
Neenah, WI
That was my thinking as well - outside bearing on a turn will have the most axial (thrust) load and probably the most radial load (carries more of the vehicle weight). Plus, it seems like you can feel the vibration more while driving than riding. I had the opportunity to ride in the front seat of the TB this morning. I couldn't really feel the vibration, only hear it.

New hub is on it's way. We'll find out soon.
 

bfairweath

Original poster
Member
Oct 20, 2013
95
Neenah, WI
Got 'er done today. Had a problem getting the old hub to come off the CV splined shaft. Eleven WI winters rusted the thing on tight. Had to go out and buy a 6" puller to get it off. Worst part of that was that was that I had to brave Black Friday shoppers to get it. Also put the brake shield on backwards the first time. That cost me about a half hour :duh:

I pretty much followed the procedure over on Offroad TB with two additions. I used blue threadlocker on the three bolts that hold the hub onto the steering knuckle. It was quite evident they used it at the factory. I also applied anti-sieze to the wheel studs and 35mm nut/bolt.

BTW, early reviews are that the problem is fixed.
 

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