Help with Transmission

[MikeHayes]

I have a 2004 Trailblazer EXT with the 5.3 V8 and the 4L60E transmission. The problem started the day after we towed a small, 14 foot boat up to the lake on Wednesday, total weight with trailer and gear less then 1000 lbs. Had to go over a couple small mountains but nothing too steep. Made it to the lake and back no problems and my wife brought it to work the next day. On the way back home she's going along and it's like someone shifted into neutral. Gas pedal revs the engine but nothing. Shuts it off and turns it back on it's good for another 1000 feet or so. Limped it back home this way with the distance getting lower and lower each time.
This morning I went out to check the fluid level and as I'm sitting there waiting for the engine to warm up, I here a few seconds of rattling under the car, then it goes away. I try to shift and I have nothing. No forward or reverse in any gear. Ran it through all the gears anyway per the manuals instructions and checked the fluid level, it's full. I read through some of the posts here last night as I lay awake in bed trying to think of ways to come up with a couple of grand for a new transmission when I'm laid off again. Can you guys confirm my fears that it's toast?

 

[DocBrown]

A couple of questions, how many miles on it? Has the transmission fluid been changed every 50k miles per the manual? And if so was Dex VI or Dex III used?

 

[Tiggerr]

What's the fluid look/smell like? I'd start with a pan/filter drop...could be filter is plugged up...
Optimistic thinking but cheap and easy enough to try 1st....

 

[MikeHayes]

It currently has 143,000 miles on it I bought it with 117,000,according to someones handwriting it was changed at 98,000. They didn't write down what they used to fill it with but based on the maintaince that is written down they followed the manuals recomendations to the letter. It was also changed around the 50k mark. The fluid is a dark red but still red, does not smell burnt or odd in any way. We're going on a trip at the end of next week I was planning on changing it this week before we went.

 

[Reprise]

Two easy things to try...but it sounds like you're going to be rebuilding / replacing, sorry to say...

- With the engine off, check the fluid level, and note its position on the stick.
Start the engine, and recheck the fluid level. The level should go down a bit when the engine is running. If not, then the pump has most likely failed, and that means R&R for sure.

- Check for play in the driveshaft by trying to turn it (both in / out of gear, with the engine off). The driveshaft should really not move - if it does (more than 0.020 in), the output shaft has likely snapped, and again, the trans has to be R&R'd.

Of the two, my guess is the pump, given the symptoms you described.

There's one other thing, I can think of, but a long shot, since it sounds like it was properly maintained... if the previous owner only drained / refilled (or, 'flushed' the fluid) - the filter *might* be clogged (no fluid going to pump). You'll need to remove the pan to check it.

You can either rebuild what you have, put a new / reman in, or put one in from the pick & pull. I'd recommend a new torque converter, whichever way you go.

 

[MikeHayes]

So, as usually is the case the knowledgable people of this site were correct. Dropped the pan this morning and filled with metal shavings.
That being said, I am looking at this: http://www.monstertransmission.com/...vy-Duty-2pc-Case-4WD_p_5076.html#.WZ7VV_mGPDc

Will that work with my 2004 Trailblazer with the 5.3 V8 in it? If not does anyone have other suggestions or information on what I should be looking for? As always any help is greatly appreciated. I love the TB and don't want to get rid of it but I am laid off and don't have a ton of money to spend.

 

[MikeHayes]

Well I just loaded my TB on the back of a flatbed, it's off to get the transmission replaced. It's been almost a month since the transmission went and I can't wait to get it back.

 

[Mooseman]

Looks like your previous message fell through the cracks. How much is this gonna cost you compared to the Monster tranny? I guess the work involved is another factor.

 

[hockeyman]

going along and it's like someone shifted into neutral. Gas pedal revs the engine but nothing.

I here a few seconds of rattling under the car, then it goes away. I try to shift and I have nothing. No forward or reverse in any gear.

I realize this post was made about a month ago, but back when I had my '03 Envoy, the trans did the same exact thing when it went bad. My trans went completely "out of the blue" though. I wasn't towing anything or doing any abnormal driving. Just sitting at a red light (in the pouring rain), then it shifted in neutral by itself, started making all kinds of noise, then would shift in/out of gear as I was trying to get home.

I sent mine to AAMCO for a rebuild. My planetary gear was broken and there were all kinds of metal shavings at the bottom of the pan.

Once you get everything squared away, you should look into selling your old trans for a few $$ or asking the shop take some money off of your replacement cost for using it as a core exchange.

 

[MikeHayes]

The transmission I'm putting in I got from a junk yard, it has 75,000 miles on it plus they're going to put in the new filter kit and shift solinoids I purchased. I'm starting a new job Tuesday so i'm hoping it will last until I get the money saved up to put the monster trans in.

 

[Mooseman]

At that mileage, I'd just wait till it breaks again, which might be never.

 

[MikeHayes]

I'm kinda hoping it never goes but with my luck I know better. I live Murphy's law. If it wasn't named after him it would be Mike's law... Lol

 

[Reprise]

At that mileage, I'd just wait till it breaks again, which might be never.

+1. You've got ~ 140K on the engine & vehicle.
If you're holding on to the TB, expect you could get 200K + out of it. Plus you have an '04 with the V8 (meaning, if you drive it into the ground, even if the engine needs to be rebuilt at that point, you can still sell your all-aluminum LM4 for a nice chunk, as-is.)
So that's 60K miles to go, with the body / engine.

Your existing trans lasted 140K. Even if you figure that the new one would go at the same mileage, that's 65K of life left in the new trans (yes, I know the two figures are close).

If you put in a fresh torque converter (either at install, or as soon as possible afterward (you can get one for $150)), and beef up the valve body with one of the corrective shift kits many of us put in ($100) and change the fluid every 30K) - I'll bet that you'll save the $ for the Monster - but you'll get rid of the TB before you need the Monster. If you don't - then you have some extra pocket money saved (and if you do...well, you were expecting that anyway).

Before you put it in, drop the pan and check out what it looks like in there (any metal shavings, fluid gunked up, etc.) If it looks OK - you're probably good. Install a new filter and clean the pan; snug it up, put the new TC in (don't reuse your old one, as there's a good chance you'll have some of those metal shavings in it, as you do in your pan), and then have the trans installed (your shop will probably do all of the above, if they're a halfway decent one, but you can always call & discuss w/ them, so they know what you 'expect').

The shop is also responsible for seeing that it has the correct amount of fluid (12qts, if they drain everything out of the old one; if they tell you they 'only had to add 5', tell them you want 100% new fluid. Put in a good synthetic (Valvoline makes a good one that runs about $8/qt, unless your shop already has a good brand they use (ask them what it is), and if you *really* want to help your new trans out - have an external cooler plumbed in.

The cooler the fluid is, the longer the trans will last. Stacked plate coolers dispel the most heat, vs. the fin & plate or tube models, and they don't cost much more, either. I have a small Derale in mine, and with the stock cooler *bypassed*, my trans temps never exceed 165F, in summer (My Envoy is an '03, but it's otherwise the same as yours). Most of the time, they're in the 150-160F range, once the trans / vehicle is up to temp. You don't have to bypass your stock cooler; the two can be plumbed in series (send the fluid to the aux cooler after it leaves the stock one, not before.)

Yes, all of the above (TC, shift kit, filter / fluid, cooler) will run you $350-$400 - but by putting them in, you'll have a trans that will likely last the (remaining) life of the vehicle - and $400 is way cheaper than the Monster you were going to put in

If you plan on doing any 'real' towing (say, 3500 lbs and up, or on a regular basis)...then the Monster may come into play (as it will have HD internals, compared to the used one you're putting in.)

 

[MikeHayes]

I appreciate the help. The body of the TB is Mint, My Brother In Law (Who's a die hard ford guy) runs a metal fab shop, he's used to replacing rusted out parts and patching them up. (In vermont no rust allowed anymore so they've been getting cars in that can't pass inspection even with a small bit of rust.) He went over the entire car with a fine tooth comb looking for something to give me shit about and he had to admit it's in great shape. If it's up to me, I won't ever get rid of it. I love my tb. Sorry for the rambling it's late and I'm getting nervous about my first day at a new job.

 

[MikeHayes]

Update:
The Good-

The transmission shifts smooth as silk and no complaints there.

The Bad-

Got it back Friday night.... With two L-O-N-G scratches going the entire length of the drivers side from the door to the taillights. I was livid. They're going to buff them out next week, if that doesn't work they're going to knock money off of the bill. Then, decide that since it's going back for that, that I should make sure everything else is working. Luckily for me I live on a dirt road, put in 4x4h, I hear the whining noise like usual and the clicks. 5 feet later I hear another click and Service 4x4 light comes on. WTF.... Call them back even more livid and ask them WTF. They're going to fix that as well.

So to sum up I have a very nice rear wheel drive TB with two scratches down the drivers side and all it cost me was $2100.

 

[MikeHayes]

Oh, and I almost forgot, The liftgate doesn't open anymore. Hit the unlock I can hear things moving but the handle does nothing.

 

[MikeHayes]

So the 4x4 light was they missed hooking up a cable. Saw it dangling and plugged it in, boom it works again. Still can't figure out the tailgate. Handle does nothing. How hard is it to get the inside panel off?

 

[Mooseman]

You might not need to. There is an access plug to access the locking mechanism from inside. The owners manual actually talks about it IIRC.

 

[Njg425]

I had to replace the rear hatch handle once. The plastic broke where the cable connects. It's fairly simple/self-explanatory once you get in there and look at it. As Mooseman said, there is an access port to get to the mechanism.