Help with AWD Disconnect reassembly

W

wad

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Joined
Nov 1, 2012
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11
Can someone help me on which way the coupler inside my disconnect should go? When i split it open I dropped it and the coupler fell out. Once side has minor champfer and one side has a more pronounced chamfer on the splines, I want to know which side goes to the intermediate shaft and which side obviously would go to the axle.

Here is a picture, should I reassemble in this orientation or flip over the coupler?

I am desperate to get this reassembled, any help would be great!

photo2.JPG
 
Roadie, That article doesn't say anything about the AWD sleeve.

When I added the sleeve to mine, I didn't notice any difference in the splines and just dropped it in.
 
wink said:
Roadie, That article doesn't say anything about the AWD sleeve.

When I added the sleeve to mine, I didn't notice any difference in the splines and just dropped it in.
Click to expand...

The coupler itself is a bit longer on one side, the side with the more chamfered splines, when I looked at the parts explosion from the service manuals section it seems that the Chamfered splines and longer bearing surface seems to be towards the intermediate shaft, but with the chamfer I am nervous that when I run it, I will strip the splines.

I wonder if anyone has the part or a picture of an assembled one?

I am going to try a local Gm dealership to see a pic hopefully, but when you mention SAAB they look at you funny !
 
Try mentioning the Olds Bravada or the Buick Rainier instead. Same part in the front but a more familiar name to those who can't figure out the Saab is the same.
 
I missed the Saab in your profile (because it wasn't there), but I should have picked up on the AWD instead of 4WD in your post. Sorry.

My thought is that more chamfering should be where the CV shaft comes in from the outside world, because when you assemble the disconnect assembly into the oil pan, you will be carefully putting it together onto the intermediate shaft.

The CV shaft can be installed by ham-handed mechanics with BFHs, so I think that deserves the most chamfering.
 
the roadie said:
I missed the Saab in your profile (because it wasn't there), but I should have picked up on the AWD instead of 4WD in your post. Sorry.

My thought is that more chamfering should be where the CV shaft comes in from the outside world, because when you assemble the disconnect assembly into the oil pan, you will be carefully putting it together onto the intermediate shaft.

The CV shaft can be installed by ham-handed mechanics with BFHs, so I think that deserves the most chamfering.
Click to expand...

Well it looks as though the more chamfered splines go towards the intermediate shaft. I assume so it is easier to put onto the intermedia shaft in such a tight area.

Also once the GM parts counter person typed in my VIN it came up in the online GM parts locator just fine, he didn't even have to spell SAAB.
 
wad said:
Well it looks as though the more chamfered splines go towards the intermediate shaft. I assume so it is easier to put onto the intermedia shaft in such a tight area.
Click to expand...

Actually, the more chamfered side goes toward the CV shaft. That is so the little snap ring will compress easier and slide in. I just took mine off my Bravada and the intermediate side is chewed right out so I know which side is which. Also when I looked at envoy disconnect the right side gear is more chamfered than the other.
 
bravad'oh;104627 said:
Actually, the more chamfered side goes toward the CV shaft. That is so the little snap ring will compress easier and slide in. I just took mine off my Bravada and the intermediate side is chewed right out so I know which side is which. Also when I looked at envoy disconnect the right side gear is more chamfered than the other.
Click to expand...

Yes it does seem to go together better this way, a lot easier to slide the drive shaft all the way into the disconnect.

Now to change the bearing and shaft on the driver side as it has a bit, 1/16 th of an inch play.....
 
That wad:biggrin: of grease in your picture is not going to be of any use where it is sitting. Make sure you get some all around the bearings AND on the spline areas. Mine dried out on the intermediate side and now there are no teeth left. Now I am installing an actual disconnect so I can control whether I am in AWD or 2WD.
 

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The Wad of grease is actually before I cleaned it up just after I dropped it and reassembled the collar into the disconnect.

The grease is now Blue and fully coats everything!


Thanks again for the orientation advice, I was able to get it back together and am about to change the TC fluid, after a quick change of fuse 8 I have 4wd drive again, good thing as there is a snowfall warning here in Calgary today!
 
Well, after a couple of very icy highway drives my service awd light has come on once again. I think it is the Encoder motor, even though it is only 2 years old(the encoder). The light came on during my drive and I pulled over, when I stepped out I could smell some hot electrical or hot paint smell, I am assuming that since it was very slippery(Sheer Ice and Snow) and I was doing 110k for 1.5 hours (70mph) the encoder gave out as it was realistically always pushing the TC clutches. Oh and I am in Canada and driving that way on the highway at that speed takes many years of practice so I wasn't driving in a risky manner, just ask anybody that lives in the mountains.

I havent pulled fuse 8 yet to reset the tccm but I am pretty much sure the Encoder is toast. Are the replacement ones on ebay of low quality as this came from the auto parts guys on Ebay located in San Diego? Its no biggy, a 10 minute and 200 dollar fix every 2 years is ok by me, just want to see if I should try a rebuilt this time?

Any advise?
 
I have no experience with replacement encoder motor quality or lifetime, but you'd think the TC clutches would get tired and worn more than a mere encoder motor that's geared down like crazy. In cold, slushy weather, the motor should get plenty of cooling. I'd check your TC fluid level.
 
Well, after changing out the ATII fluid and making sure it was full and pulling and checking all fuses related to TCCM, it does seem to be the encoder motor.
I think I am going to order another new one and not rebuilt, well see what happens I guess.
 
Ok, here we go, Service 4wd light still on intermittently. Changed out Trans Case fluid, changed out Actuator Motor, disconnected battery......

Checked pertinent fuses and nothing, all are good.

Whats left? Maybe front diff fluid level? When I changed out the front disconnect bearing I checked the level.

TCCM, not sure why this is a 2006 model SAAB 9-7x and should have a pretty solid TCCM.

Wiring? I saw some kind of service bulletin about the tape on the wires?


Any other ideas? Obviously I don't have my own full scan tool just an OBD reader.
 
Your front diff oil level will never cause a code problem. The TCCM uses ABS data to determine when to engage drive to the front. When the actuator gets the signal to move it sends back a signal to say it is in the required position. You could have a bad connection problem in the wiring there or a problem with an ABS sensor that is intermittent.
 
Hello,
During reassembly of the Front Axle Disconnect using the Sleeve solution/workaround after a broken fork,
which washers are used ? It doesn't right to have that sleeve without end washers. Those bearings are not thrust bearings so the washers provide the surface that mates to the sleeve.
Do I have this right?
Yet when I installed the assembly this way, the case was tight and the sleeve would not spin when stuck on the end of axle to test.
Can someone please clarify! I need to tow!
Steve
 
When you put the thrust washers in you should notice they have three notches around the outside. They have to align with the bumps on the disconnect halves. You can see half of one of the bumps in the above picture. Use grease to make the washer stick in the right spot while you re-assemble the disconnect. You should be able to get both halves tight together without putting any bolts in.
 
I got the disconnect unit together only by excluding the inside thrust washer. I tried the notches.... would not go.
I actually bought qty two of the axle sleeves from different vendors to expedite/compare, both same GM part. After previous upgrade, redoing the ball joints and struts in the front, tearing the hub down and laying aside ain't that bad. If I need to, I will pull it apart! Let's see how long that lasts. What will be the failing component or will it just burn up and seize? Also, I would gladly pay $$ for a used broken axle disconnect assembly if you ended up buying a new unit OR if you take it to the dealer, ask for the old unit to go! It looks like I may be needing one!
 
If there is lots of grease in there it should last a long time. Did you get grease in the splines as well? The sleeve on my Bravada wore out and stripped out due to a lack of lube. I have seen it happen before on similar assemblies where I work so I made sure there was tons everywhere when I put it back together including both splined shafts.
 
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