- Dec 23, 2012
- 197
My heat only gets hot as the vehicle is driven. While warming up, it barely gets warm. What is the solution to this? Thx
Heat doesn't get hot while warming up
- Thread starter shepherd92683
- Start date
Einst-Hawk
Member
- Jan 31, 2014
- 105
Playsinsnow
Member
- Nov 17, 2012
- 9,727
What are the temps? I let my tb run for 20mins and it may only get halfway to where is sits at op temp in single digits.
The tb will warm up MUCH faster being driven. How warm does it get? Should get warm but not blazing hot unless the motor is already warm.
Edit: I replaced thermostat and ect sensor when a CEL code came up.
The tb will warm up MUCH faster being driven. How warm does it get? Should get warm but not blazing hot unless the motor is already warm.
Edit: I replaced thermostat and ect sensor when a CEL code came up.
Mark20
Member
- Dec 6, 2011
- 1,630
The temperature gauge should be straight up and down or a bit to the right when the engine is at normal operating temps. Its driven by the computer and heavily filtered.
A tick to the left of straight up over too long a period means the engine is running too cool.
Not exactly the best indicator GM did.
A tick to the left of straight up over too long a period means the engine is running too cool.
Not exactly the best indicator GM did.
Denali n DOO
Member
- May 22, 2012
- 5,596
Eric04
Member
Mine doesn't warm up to temp very quickly either just idling in the garage. I usually let it run five minutes at most and then hit the road. It comes up to temp quickly once it is driven. My wife's 3.5 liter is pretty much the same.
IllogicTC
Member
- Dec 30, 2013
- 3,452
Mine does the exact same thing, both on the old thermostat (which eventually went faulty) and on the new one. Driving the vehicle of course calls for heavier combustion cycles, and the whole of the transmission to move rather than just the pump and input area which helps warm up the radiator, too.
- Dec 23, 2012
- 197
Since I'm not too excited to replace my thermostat because I just had all of that taken apart a couple weeks ago when I did my water pump, I'll not be replacing it unless it's shot. Maybe I'll just deal with it and check my coolant again. It's done this since I've had it for 4 years now.
Mounce
Member
You got the 4.2? If so, the thermostat isn't even close to the water pump, it's behind the alternator, pretty dreadful job. Where does your temp gauge sit after the engine is up to temp, say, after a drive?shepherd92683 said:
Btw, I vote thermostat too.
Mounce
Member
Point I was trying to make was, he hasn't actually had it apart in that area. I don't think the alternator has to come out to replace a water pump.IllogicTC said:
IllogicTC
Member
- Dec 30, 2013
- 3,452
Right, it doesn't. But if the thermostat is dead, it's very important to get it fixed sooner than later. You'll see the difference in gas mileage, heater effectiveness, and a greatly-reduced likelihood of plugging up the catalytic converter!Mounce said:
It takes some fairly basic tools, but ratcheting wrenches come recommended for alternator removal as it makes it much easier, and a torx bit set for removing the alternator bracket for a little more working room if you need it. It's important to disconnect the battery during the procedure, too. One false move with the large wire on the alternator and you can ground your battery out, which is of course very bad.
Mounce
Member
Yes, I know this lol, don't have to give me the spiel although I guess you're directing it to the OP.. Also, my EXT has no torx bolts on the alternator bracket.
- Dec 23, 2012
- 197
There are no torx on mine either, and yes I have the 4.2. I have taken my 2 alts out many times and I have it down to a science lol. My temp gauge is off a little bit from when I replaced my dash lights with led's and I've never fixed it. The amount it looks to be off would put the needle right about center on the gauge. I also hope I don't have to take the alt out again as Ive done that too many times and it's monotonous after doing it so many times.IllogicTC said:
- Dec 23, 2012
- 197
I just watched a video on how to dl it and it doesn't seem to hard to do if you can remove the alternator. Is there something difficult about it that I missed?
Mounce
Member
Difficult parts to me are the lower alt bolt and the placement of the thermostat. It's deep down in there with little room to work with. I haven't replaced mine so I'm going off of what I've seen but I have had the alt out so I know that bottom bolt is a bitch lol.
marinegrunt
Member
- Oct 13, 2012
- 110
I've had to replace two thermostats in ours and getting ready to do a 3rd. The last two have lasted a little over a year. I went with stant on the first one and then bought oem for the second. Didn't seem to make a difference on how long they lasted. Just unlucky I guess.
I found it much easier to remove the alternator to replace it. I wanna say on the one I tried getting it out without removing the alternator but got sick of fighting it and ended up pulling it. The second time I didn't think twice about it and just removed the alternator.
I found it much easier to remove the alternator to replace it. I wanna say on the one I tried getting it out without removing the alternator but got sick of fighting it and ended up pulling it. The second time I didn't think twice about it and just removed the alternator.
We own 3 TBs. We've done them plenty of times.
It's much easier to take the extra 10 minutes to move the alternator and then do the thermostat.
It's much easier to take the extra 10 minutes to move the alternator and then do the thermostat.
- Dec 23, 2012
- 197
A buddy of mine at work who is mechanically inclined suggested to reverse flush the heater core or bleed the system. Any thoughts on doing that?
Playsinsnow
Member
- Nov 17, 2012
- 9,727
I'll stick to running distilled water until it comes out clean enough to drink (not really, but you get the point) then top off with coolant as the system burps itself. Long process but peace of mind.
Use what to reverse flush?
Use what to reverse flush?
- Dec 23, 2012
- 197
marinegrunt
Member
- Oct 13, 2012
- 110
Playsinsnow
Member
- Nov 17, 2012
- 9,727
Fill radiator with fresh coolant after flushing clean with distlled. Then fill resevoir. Let it idle until warm and turn off. As it cools, level will go down. When you get it warm again and thermostat opens, the sytem will move the coolant burping the trapped air up and out. Done right, two cycles of filling again and a daily check for a few days worked for me. Trick is to let it get up to operating temp without overheating and let it cool down completely between topping it off.
Bow_Tied
Member
How I reversed flushed the heater core on a Jimmy I have: I pulled the heater hoses off the engine and used a garden hose into one heater hose and pointed the other heater hose to a pail. A lot of crap came out and then the heater worked better. My symptoms were reduced heat after warm-up complete.
However, before that I would test the thermostat first. To do this you need to be conscious of monitoring things so your engine doesn't overheat: SImply put some cardboard in front of the radiator. That's it. This greatly reduces the cooling capacity of the rad. If this allows the engine to warm up notably faster than before under the same conditions then the thermostat is stuck at least partly open. If there is little to no change in warm up time, then the stat is likely fine and that is simply how long the engine takes to warm up given the specific warm up/drive cycle you are using. (Assumes coolant system is otherwise in decent condition.)
Just remember to take the cardboard out so you don't overheat.
However, before that I would test the thermostat first. To do this you need to be conscious of monitoring things so your engine doesn't overheat: SImply put some cardboard in front of the radiator. That's it. This greatly reduces the cooling capacity of the rad. If this allows the engine to warm up notably faster than before under the same conditions then the thermostat is stuck at least partly open. If there is little to no change in warm up time, then the stat is likely fine and that is simply how long the engine takes to warm up given the specific warm up/drive cycle you are using. (Assumes coolant system is otherwise in decent condition.)
Just remember to take the cardboard out so you don't overheat.
Started mine this morning -20F outside, let it run 30 mins and the temp stayed at 162F until i took a small jaunt (300yds or so) down the road and back and it was up to 176F and still climbing....
Bow_Tied
Member
Checked tepmps today, max temp of coolant was 183f after 30 min drive, ambient air was 7f... Think my thermostat need replacement?coolasice said:
Playsinsnow
Member
- Nov 17, 2012
- 9,727
I get up to 194 at that air temp. How many miles? I'd do it with a full coolant flush along with the ECT sensor that is right beside the thermostat.
Mooseman
Moderator
I've had an ACDelco stat for 3+ years, still going. I had initially installed a Stant and found it to be a tad cooler and the ACDelco is spot on.
For those wondering why their engine isn't getting up to operating temp idling in extreme cold weather is that you have to remember that the heater core is just like a small radiator. At that temperature, it will overcool your engine despite what the thermostat does because the heating system bypasses it. If you turn down the heater fan, or even turn it off, temperature will get up. In fact, it's an old trick when you're overheating in summer to turn on the heater full blast to assist the radiator (unless you lost all your coolant of course).
While driving, I find the 4.2 one of the fastest to get up to normal temp.
For those wondering why their engine isn't getting up to operating temp idling in extreme cold weather is that you have to remember that the heater core is just like a small radiator. At that temperature, it will overcool your engine despite what the thermostat does because the heating system bypasses it. If you turn down the heater fan, or even turn it off, temperature will get up. In fact, it's an old trick when you're overheating in summer to turn on the heater full blast to assist the radiator (unless you lost all your coolant of course).
While driving, I find the 4.2 one of the fastest to get up to normal temp.
I'm wondering if it may have been changed before I got the truck as the coolant looks perfect, just like it was out of the bottle. If it was changed it wasn't done at the dealer, I checked history with the service desk and only thing done was the manifold change. It still warms up faster then my old blazer tho. Got 90k miles. Stants website claims 187.IllogicTC said:
Japanese must do it different... My gfs SUV will warm up to full temp while heater is running full blast in about 15 mins just idling.Mooseman said:
nagyiii
Member
- Apr 26, 2014
- 73
I was getting poor heat and low motor temp (below 210), took it in to have my TStat replaced, my normal go to shop did it for $170 out the door, and I was back on my way with good heat and back to normal running temp. Chances are it's the T Stat, but check your fluid level too