Has anybody replaced trans lines with braided hose, stainless steel or nylon?

matermark

Registered Member
Has anybody replaced trans lines with braided hose, stainless steel or nylon? I bought all the replacement steel lines (V8) and the quick-disconnect tool to replace rusted lines that developed a pinhole and leaked out on the highway enough to take out 3rd/4th/transmission. I don't have a garage to do the job, and wonder if easier to temporarily use a braided hose or at least trans cooler hose--I bought a 4.5ft section when I ordered the steel lines. I need to add probably a gallon or more ATF to drive it to somebody and not sure how long & far I can get! How big of a job is it cutting near trans and running hose to radiator cooler, and are you confident in the job, enough to not bother going back to stock steel lines? Did you add a cooler at the same time? Thanks for any replies.
 

Mooseman

Master Blaster
Moderator
If you can access the location where that pinhole is, the old fix was to just cut out the rusted out portion and slip a piece of hose with worm gear clamps (2 at each end). You shouldn't need to run it all the way to the rad.
 

TollKeeper

Gold Supporter
If your already going to have a shop do the tranny, your better off just letting them do the lines. They have to pull them anyways to drop the tranny, it just means one opportunity for them to get bent, kinked, or whatever.
 

matermark

Registered Member
Thread Starter
If you can access the location where that pinhole is, the old fix was to just cut out the rusted out portion and slip a piece of hose with worm gear clamps (2 at each end). You shouldn't need to run it all the way to the rad.
I had it on a lift at a local yahoo repair shop, first thing they said was, "This big labor cost!" You could see it dripping quickly off the frame; they tried showing me the leak by looking at it from further back but everything was wet & dripping, I couldn't see the actual spot but it seems to be between the engine and frame--the lines are all scaly with rust, I haven't gotten under it since. I was hoping to wipe a rust converter on the line to get a better chance to cut it & put a patch in--their "big labor" only included the idea of using compression fittings and they didn't say if they would try to rebend/stretch the line and just use 1 fitting to patch an inch of line or if they were gonna do a long section to remove ALL the rust section. I'm sure both are rusty but they were only talking about repairing ONE line. They quoted $120 in labor. I should ask them how much to install the 4 new steel lines... or offer them like $100-$150...
 

TollKeeper

Gold Supporter
Your only 2 hours from a shop that I would recommend. South Main Auto there in Avoca, NY is a well respected shop. He knows how to make custom lines, and has videos on youtube about it. He could even locate, and swap in a used tranny, or whatever.
 

matermark

Registered Member
Thread Starter
If your already going to have a shop do the tranny, your better off just letting them do the lines. They have to pull them anyways to drop the tranny, it just means one opportunity for them to get bent, kinked, or whatever.
If I don't go to a trans shop and go to a reputable mechanic (a friend of a friend that I've used before and can barter with), I'd need to drive over 30 minutes at various speeds 30-65mph so would need enough fluid to stay in the trans to go that far! I'd have him do the lines now and swap the trans when the time comes. I don't have any other vehicle and need something to do normal living--like getting groceries--I haven't gone ANYWHERE in about a month now & have been ordering in...

I was going to rebuild it myself to a HD/hi-perf specs if I can find the job-specific tools, I just can't do the remove & replace. I don't know if I can trust a trans shop to install heavy duty parts I specify--or especially if I provide the parts. Who can prove it? Laborers want to make money off you on parts too. Or I'd get a used trans and rebuild that one and have somebody R&R them. That's why I need to know (I've been asking here!) what years & from what engine a 4L60E I could use for my '04 V8...
 

matermark

Registered Member
Thread Starter
Your only 2 hours from a shop that I would recommend. South Main Auto there in Avoca, NY is a well respected shop. He knows how to make custom lines, and has videos on youtube about it. He could even locate, and swap in a used tranny, or whatever.
I have a well respected guy/shop, 30 minutes away. I bought all 4 lines, the AC Delco brand... each line has 2 pieces on the AC brand, at least on the V8. What do you think a place like his (S. Main) would charge to install a customer's lines? Many places won't because they aren't making $$ on the parts. On my ZR2 I bought black coated drilled & slotted rotors and anti-corrosion-coated calipers & ceramic pads...the rotors & pads I found a "clearance" part # that came out to $66 (WTF!!!) for ALL FOUR rotors & pads so NO WAY I was not buying them! PLUS they had FREE SHIPPING! A local repair shop wouldn't do the job, stating they only install THEIR parts! So my 30-minutes-away guy R&R'd 4 rotors, 4 calipers, broke loose 4 bleeders, bled all 4 calipers one at a time, on a rusty S10 from WNY, all for $100 including a $10 tip! It had a rock-hard pedal & I sold it & bought an XUV after 7-8 months looking for a replacement. If I can't find someone to do the trans lines (R&R) he'd be my go-to guy! I'm just concerned about making the trip w/o running out of ATF if I don't fix the pinhole first! I personally have not seen the actual pinhole so assume I can't get my hands on it. I'd even consider silicone tape as a temporary patch to get it to his place--if I could see it and get my hands in there to wrap it. Heck, even epoxy or JB Weld just to cover the pinhole, just to get it there...
 

Mooseman

Master Blaster
Moderator
AFAIK, they should be the same from at least '02 to '06 . Internally, they are the same between I6 and V8 as long as you stay with the proper 4x4 tailshaft. Bellhousing and torque converters are different. It shouldn't be too difficult to find a TB I6 tranny, either to rebuild or a good used unit.
 

Mooseman

Master Blaster
Moderator
AFAIK, they should be the same from at least '02 to '06 . Internally, they are the same between I6 and V8 as long as you stay with the proper 4x4 tailshaft. Bellhousing and torque converters are different. It shouldn't be too difficult to find a TB I6 tranny, either to rebuild or a good used unit
I'd even consider silicone tape as a temporary patch to get it to his place--
That could work and if you could put a clamp over it, that would hold it enough to get you there. It's a low pressure line so that could work. But like you said, depends on the location.
 

matermark

Registered Member
Thread Starter
AFAIK, they should be the same from at least '02 to '06 . Internally, they are the same between I6 and V8 as long as you stay with the proper 4x4 tailshaft. Bellhousing and torque converters are different. It shouldn't be too difficult to find a TB I6 tranny, either to rebuild or a good used unit.
@Mooseman Thanks. I thought I read somewhere 99-04. Do you think the 6 cyl versions were beat on less than the V8's? Do you think the V8's had heavier duty parts inside, or different than the 6's? I had cores lined up with bad 3-4 clutches from a Sierra and a Silverado I think, $75ea... one is '03, other's '05--bad if the breakoff year is '04... wonder if the transfer case tailshaft/adapter is the same bolt pattern... I thought I've seen round as well as hex shaped 6-bolt...
 

Mooseman

Master Blaster
Moderator
Internal Parts are the same. My assumption would be the I6 ones would be a little better as there isn't as much torque going through them. Beefier versions were the 4L65E and 4L70E. Basically the same, they just had beefier parts for the extra torque of the bigger engines (i.e. 6.0L). The 4L60E can be built up with the heavier parts or even better with aftermarket HD parts.
 

TollKeeper

Gold Supporter
6 cylinders are going to be beat on just as much as the V8. It all comes down to who owned and drove it.

So if you have a 4x4, and hunt around for a replacement unit, just make sure its 4x4. Dont matter if its a 6 or 8, cause you can swap your bell housing and torque converter.

As for the question on South Main, he dont care if you bring the parts, but he will only do what you tell him to do. For a proper R and R, you are looking probably close to 2500-3000 (I paid 2700 at the dealer 7 years ago). For a used, probably close to 1500-2000. For some reason, even thou there are a lot of 4L60's on the market, they still have a good value to them.. LKQOnline has units with 150k miles going for 900. That is of course unless you go to the salvage yard and pull it yourself. Then you are looking at 100-300, depending on the yard. And since you cant test it, its luck of the draw.

Heres a pulled 4L60E, but with no tail end. So I cant tell if its for a 2wd or 4x4

This guy says he will install a rebuilt tranny, with 3 year warranty, for around 1150. If its true, thats a steal!

There are other 4L60E trannys available in your area, but they are all out of 2WD vehicles, and that does you no good.
 

Reprise

Lifetime VIP Supporter
That's why I need to know (I've been asking here!) what years & from what engine a 4L60E I could use for my '04 V8...

The best for your truck is before '05, because that's when GM split off control of the trans to a separate TCM, vs. the PCM handling everything. The trans controller for those mount on the side of the trans. Along with that, the harness changed, as well as a couple of things that attached to that harness, inside, in the VB area.

And of that, I'd say get something from '99-up; if you can find it, '01 and up. That's only 4 MY that are the 'best', for you... but you'll have the least to worry about with those choices.

Make sure that the one you get supports PWM (you'll see those letters stamped on the face of the pump housing, behind where the torque converter sits.) And if you have to get a new converter, get one specifically referenced for the TB / Envoy, etc. Those will work with PWM (which continually 'slips' the converter).

It matters not if the trans comes from a donor vehicle with a 4.2 or a 5.3. They're the same, internally. GM didn't build / issue "six cylinder 4L60e" and "eight cylinder 4L60e", or they'd have issued a separate model # / RPO for them.

So... since the GMT360 platform started up in '02... anything from that segment '02-'04 would be just fine for you. Just make sure it's 4WD, if you have / want to keep it.
 

TollKeeper

Gold Supporter
@Reprise - You bring up a question I have been meaning to ask. If he has a 4x4, but doesnt care if it stays a 4x4, can he swap in the 2wd tranny, and use the same drive shaft? Will any check engine lights (besides the service 4x4 system) pop up?
 

Reprise

Lifetime VIP Supporter
The driveshaft is different, I'm pretty sure -- b/c it comes after the t-case, and is shorter.

But if he found a 2wd trans in the JY... there'll prolly be a matching driveshaft, I'd think. I'd replace the U-joints, since I was there (and I think the ones on the 360s are the injection molded ones that have to be 'burned out'). I did my Sierra's recently (which uses the external snap rings), but haven't had to touch the Envoy's yet (of, course, now that I bring it up... ) :bonk:

He shouldn't have any extra lights, REP, etc. ... not that the 'Service 4x4' light doesn't ever light up for no reason at all, anyway... :rolleyes: :dielaugh: And he could get the light off permanently w/ a Tech2, if he ditched the system (he could remove the 4WD programming outright)

Since he lives in NY, and has the other pieces, I'd prolly just look for another 4x4, if I were him -- they should be pretty plentiful, up north.
 

TollKeeper

Gold Supporter
Since he lives in NY, and has the other pieces, I'd prolly just look for another 4x4, if I were him -- they should be pretty plentiful, up north.
That is true, usually the cars rust out before they leave the lot up there LOL :crackup:
 

jmonica

Registered Member
I that I'm late to the party on this topic but in case anyone else reads it for information. I live in North New Jersey. I replaced my trans with a used one that I bought from one of these used transmission warheouse's for lack of a better term. It was a huge warehouse with rack after rack of used transmissions. They quoted me the best price of around $400 with no core exchange.

If you go this route, do yourself a favor and really look over the trans before you plunk down your hard earned money. The first one they brought me, even though it had lower mileage than the one I eventually walked it with, I noticed it had a cracked tab which believe was one of the bell housing bolt holes.

Maybe even take photos of your existing unit and compare to make sure there's nothin broken off and missing. I can try to track down the name of the place if anyone needs it but it will take some digging. I found it by a simple google search for used transmissions. Good Luck everyone!
 

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