Guess what arrived on time?! My "GYMKO" Tech 2!

[southsidesmoka]

My "GYMKO" Tech 2 arrived as scheduled - August 15th, 2018. I've been quite busy and engrossed in my attempts to work the bugs out of my software environment - which I shall provide details on, shortly. The unit itself seems to works flawlessly! An excellent investment in technology to keep yourself, family, friends and maybe even some customers on the road! I purchased from a different seller than the one suggested; I saved a few dollars but suffered on shipping times - ordered on the 6th and received it on the 15th because the seller didn't disburse the package immediately. Have a look at the price and package I purchased, here: "GYMKO" Tech 2 Package

"GYMKO" Photo Collage

Kit and Kaboodle

Software Discs

AC Power Adapter

DLC Adapters

DLC

Tech 2 Labeling

Tech 2

CANdi Module

Battery Power Cable

Power Port Cable

RS-232 Serial Cable

I know a bunch of pictures of a tool doesn't exactly help anybody; it's the experience one gets from using said tools in the pictures that is invaluable. I'm gaining that experience and will share it! I'm going to post, hopefully over the coming weekend, a write-up of my experience with tool, hardware and software ops, thus far. Thanks for reading.

- southsidesmoka

 

[Blckshdw]

Always love getting to play with new toys

 

[mrrsm]

Congratulations, Chris... The only thing worth mentioning a second time is that when you are inside of the vehicle... during the OBD2 Female Port Hook Up ...to ensure that you plug whichever Power Supply you decide to use... either the Battery Clamps Harness, the Cigarette Lighter Power Harness or the AC/DC Power Harness to remember to insert the Power Connector into the DLC Cable Power Port... and NOT directly into the Base of Your Brand New GYMKO Handheld Scanner.

 

[southsidesmoka]

Congratulations, Chris... The only thing worth mentioning a second time is that when you are inside of the vehicle... during the OBD2 Female Port Hook Up ...to ensure that you plug whichever Power Supply you decide to use... either the Battery Clamps Harness, the Cigarette Lighter Power Harness or the AC/DC Power Harness to remember to insert the Power Connector into the DLC Cable Power Port... and NOT directly into the Base of Your Brand New GYMKO Handheld Scanner.

Thank you for the congrats! I greatly appreciate your admonition, good sir. I must admit, I couldn't find the pesky little power port of which you speak at first; however, I knew it was there.

Previous reading granted me the knowledge that the CANdi module couldn't power on without power being provided to its' particular port. Said port was hiding due to the fact that having my mobile workstation, the "GYMKO" Tech 2 and ALL of their corresponding cabling / adapters / etc... present in my TrailBlazer simultaneously provides for quite an entanglement of many a thick, black cable. 'Tis a maze in there!

I'm still trying to work the bugs out of my software configuration...as such, I'm back at it. Ladies and gentleman, I shall keep you posted. Thank you for your time and attention.

- southsidesmoka

 

[mrrsm]

 

[southsidesmoka]

Eureka!!!!
​

If the above headline is of any indication, I do believe I have stumbled upon my magic formula for "GYMKO" Tech 2 vehicle programming success, ladies and gentlemen. Let me share with you my secret... The keystone to it all is some FREE software called VirtualBox. It is now produced by Oracle and can be gotten at http://www.virtualbox.org.

I say my magic formula and my secret because, given the topological nature of IT, I am sure others have successfully found functional alternative methods to accomplish the incredible feat of programming the various modules present in our late model GM vehicles. Please, allow me to elaborate...

VirtualBox is hyper-visor software that will allow you to operate one or more virtual machines on your computer. In short, VirtualBox allows one to install the TIS 2000 requisite Windows XP SP3 operating system on your brand-spankin' new Windows 10 Pro for Workstations machine without any data-loss!

In addition to the "GYMKO" Tech 2 unit and all of the required software (VirtualBox, Windows XP SP3, TIS 2000), most of us will find the existent need for a USB-to-DB9 adapter because the majority of our modern computers use USB for nearly all peripheral communication and have long since shed the traditional serial and parallel ports that some of the TIS 2000 dongles actually plug into.

Now, about the hardware key dongle - don't bother to purchase it like I did. My HWK is still in mainland China whilst I am already using my "GYMKO" Tech 2 - curtousy of the TIS 2000 software crack! Said software patch fools your Techline machine (the machine your designate for usage as your Tech 2 computer terminal) into authorizing usage of TIS 2000 as if you have a HWK plugged in. So...save yourself the $10 - $20 bucks on the HWK and use it to put some petroleum distillate in your vehicle so you can enjoy your newly programmed ride!

Hmmm...let's see...I've been typing this off and on for the last 12 hours; as I look over it, I can't think of anything I missed. But, I'm sure there is. Stay tuned for a further update with more text and pictures of the Tech 2 and TIS 2000 in use. If anybody needs any help or assistance with software setup, I'm here. Remember, only questions asked receive answers. Simply let somebody know what you are trying to accomplish and we'll see if we can't get 'er done, together!

Got a late model GM? Get a "GYMKO" Tech 2 and CRUSH the competition!


- southsidesmoka

 

[Mooseman]

I would absolutely love for you to do a write-up in the Tech 2 section of your setup! Not everybody has access to an old XP laptop so a good stable working Win10 setup would be awesome.

 

[southsidesmoka]

Absolutely, sir! That is not a problem; I would love to share the knowledge so we can all get some extended usage out of this End-of-Lifed TIS 2000 software for our mature vehicles using our "GYMKO" Tech 2's and newer Windows 10 monsters! I'll get 'er going tonight and have something by, let's say, Monday evening, 2018.08.20 - at least that's my target date. It won't be some hack piece as the devil is in the details; as such, I won't leave any out. It should be something good for the community to share...

- southsidesmoka

 

[southsidesmoka]

HWK UPDATE:

My long-lost HWK (hardware key) for TIS 2000 arrived from China, today - after I complained about its' latency in a previous post. As such, allow me to re-iterate - save yourself the $20 on the HWK! In my HWK package, I received another copy of TIS 2000 and a copy of a different, easier-to-install software crack; alas, there was NO hardware key in sight.

Up to this point, I have been forced to update my vehicle using the "shoestring-network" / go-between Tech 2 method; i.e. not the Pass-Through method, as TIS 2000 refused to budge or progress after reaching the ECU programming screen - even after explicitly setting the Tech 2 Pass-Through capability to "Enable".

I suspect the newly received crack, without going into too much detail, will allow me to perform the Pass-Through program method because of its' different architecture - it uses a different driver crack. I'll test out said theory shortly and return with reports, folks. Thank you for your time.

- southsidesmoka

 

[southsidesmoka]

Pass-Through Programming Update:

Much to the dismay of myself and, more likely than not, some other folks', my notion that the newly acquired cracked security dongle driver for TIS 2000 was going to allow Pass-Through programming to function was, thus far, wrong.I have had no such luck with getting the Pass-Through programming mode to function. The prospect of instantaneously dispatching software updates to our vehicles is extremely attractive and has me drooling ; however, at this point, I'm curious as to whether or not I am beating a dead horse... I'll keep everybody posted as to any progress made with that facet of Tech 2 operation and I should have something of a proper written TIS 2000 / Windows 10 tutorial available by tomorrow evening.

- southsidesmoka

 

[Mooseman]

It could be due to the USB serial adapter or that you are in a virtual machine running XP. I know my old laptop running XP and a built-in serial port works fine.

 

[southsidesmoka]

It could be due to the USB serial adapter or that you are in a virtual machine running XP. I know my old laptop running XP and a built-in serial port works fine.

My ancient Windows XP SP3 laptop with an actual DB9 serial port - circa 1996 to 1998 - couldn't carry the TIS 2000 load; the application would cease to function and ultimately become unresponsive when trying to communicate with the Tech 2. It wasn't until I put the power of my young and spry, year-old mobile workstation behind VirtualBox that I had any level of success with the Windows XP SP3 / TIS 2000 software stack, the "GYMKO" Tech 2 and programming the modules in my TrailBlazer...

Knowing that the functionality is viable with traditional serial ports leads me, as well, to the more than likely conclusion that the issue has something to do with the USB-to-DB9 adapter and the VM. I am quite anxious and can't wait to figure this one out!



- southsidesmoka

 

[Mooseman]

1996? Might be too old and not meet minimum specs. My IBM T40 is of 2003 vintage.

 

[djthumper]

a 96-98 model year system would have barely run XP. Those would have been a 95 or NT era system.

 

[southsidesmoka]

She's an old Gateway (remember them?) Solo 9300 packing a, then, top-of-the-line 750MHz Mobile Pentium III...yes, that's an "M" for mega. It shipped with Windows 98SE and, honestly, the 4GB HD barely has enough space to hold Windows XP SP3, the paging file and TIS 2000 all together!

Rather than spend money on a used notebook computer that shipped with Windows XP and a built-in DB9, I figure that's funding towards 7 or 8 tanks of gas at the going rate in my locale; hence, the time and effort required to work the bugs out of our gourmet mix of antiquity software and cutting-edge hardware is worth the trouble.

I have updated all of the modules and their according software that the December 2007 version of TIS 2000 will allow in my TrailBlazer, using the go-between method (load the software into the Tech 2 from the computer, load the software into the vehicle from the Tech 2). Although this manner of operation is workable, it's not optimal - especially in a fast-paced environment; i.e. a repair shop (an unlikely scenario, but still...).

Ladies and gentlemen, I'll post a separate thread in this forum with the Windows 10 / VirtualBox tutorial, later today. Everybody, enjoy your day and don't work too hard.

- southsidesmoka

 

[mrrsm]

Did your New Lift Gate Module index properly and function on the Network during your latest updates of all the Modules... or is that yet to be looked at?

 

[southsidesmoka]

Did your New Lift Gate Module index properly and function on the Network during your latest updates of all the Modules... or is that yet to be looked at?

RKE is functional as are the liftgate and liftglass locking mechanisms - they weren't before; however, the windshield washer arm is spotty - I think it needs a new motor as it didn't work correctly when I bought the TrailBlazer - whilst the washer pump works fine. I can't say I specifically read the Tech 2 screen results that give a definitive "yes" to your question, but all signs point to "yes".

- southsidesmoka

 

[mrrsm]

Just to answer this secondary issue you just discovered... I've done a few Tear Downs of the LGM and found a POF (Point of Failure) on one of the 12 Volt Power Tangs was damaged due to Arcing and Sparking; sufficient to cause enough heat to actually melt the Black Plastic Encasement and scar the Cadmium right off of the metal enough to make the steel blade underneath Gnarly and Rusty and make a Sketchy Connection that may not work at all.

Also... another place to investigate this issue without changing the Rear Windshield Wiper Motor out of hand... is the (12) Volt Feed Wire, The Ground and Serial Data-bus Wiring in the Pass-Through Grommet and Boot located in the upper hinge area. This is where the Copper Wires in the Bundle can either work harden and break or pinch the connections and Short Out partially or entirely. So the RWW Motor may not be the actual source of the sketchy WW behavior:

These two videos are attached just to provide you with a look at the ordinary GM Wiring Bundle in similar applications ...and not my recommendation on how to side-step a problem issue by the VOP (Video Original Poster) in the first video. If you find anything like this... As demonstrated in the second video... Good Soldering Skills and some Heat Shrink Tubing should do the trick in waking up the Rear Wiper. Make sure you check your Fuse(s) Before and After... and remember to slide your Heat Shrink Wrap along one side of the wire(s) involved ...B4 you start Soldering:

This is what a Working LGM should look like when torn down for inspection:

http://s557.photobucket.com/user/60...ERENGINEREPAIR/GMLIFTGATEMODULE?sort=2&page=1

 

[southsidesmoka]

Just to answer this secondary issue you just discovered...I've done a few Tear Downs of the LGM and found a POF (Point of Failure) on one of the 12 Volt Power Tangs was damaged due to Arcing and Sparking; sufficient to cause enough heat to actually melt the Black Plastic Encasement and scar the Cadmium off of the metal enough to make the steel blade underneath Gnarly and Rusty.

Also... another place to investigate this issue without changing the Rear Windshield Wiper Motor out of hand... is the (12) Volt Feed Wire, The Ground and Data-bus Wiring in the Pass-Through Grommet and Boot located in the upper hinge area. This is where the Copper Wires in the Bundle can either work harden and break or pinch the connections and Short Out partially or entirely. So the RWW Motor may not be the actual source of the sketchy WW behavior:

These two videos are attached just to provide you with a look at the ordinary GM Wiring Bundle in similar applications ...and not my recommendation on how to side-step a problem issueby the VOP in the first video. If you find anything like this... Good Soldering Skills and some Heat Shrink Tubing should do the trick in waking up the Rear Wiper. Make sure you check your Fuse(s) Before and After... and remember to slide your Heat Shrink Wrap along one side of the wire(s) involved ...B4 you start Soldering:

This is what a Working LGM should look like when torn down for inspection:

http://s557.photobucket.com/user/60...ERENGINEREPAIR/GMLIFTGATEMODULE?sort=2&page=1

I repaired a single broken wire (orange, approximately 12 gauge) about two or three weeks ago in the liftgate hinge area; it was a devil to access - removing and replacing the grommets on the rubber boot was the dickens! The solution I implemented was to add a length of wire rather than do a direct solder connection of the broken wire in in order to give a little wiggle room for the repair and regular flexibility. After said repair, the wiper motor began it's sporadic operation versus none at all prior...perhaps the wiring is worth another look before I through more money at it. In addition, you are very, very correct in your statement, sir - slide that heat shrink tubing down the wire BEFORE soldering .

No traces of arching on the PCB and no melted plastic inside or out of the original LGM housing. I have pictures of the LGM and its' PCB, but there was some sort of error between GMTNation and Flickr...

I'm going to polish the little tutorial for TIS 2000 / Windows 10 so I can get it posted. I know it's an antiquated cliche, but..."I'll be back."

- southsidesmoka

 

[mrrsm]

Since we are discussing Electrical "Terminators"... Ahhhhnuuuld.... NEVER Goes Out Of Style... :>)

EDIT:

You might still have problems within that same Bundle... and using something like THIS will make finding Hidden Wire Breaks inside of the insulation... A Walk in The Park:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BVPPJL6/?tag=gmtnation-20

...or the similar device...from Harbor Freight as described by the satisfied VOP in this Youtube Video:

 

[Chickenhawk]

Since we are discussing Electrical "Terminators"... Ahhhhnuuuld.... NEVER Goes Out Of Style... :>)

EDIT:

You might still have problems within that same Bundle... and using something like THIS will make finding Hidden Wire Breaks inside of the insulation... A Walk in The Park:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BVPPJL6/?tag=gmtnation-20

Interesting. I was looking at the GTC tool, but that is about $250 here in Canada. How do you like yours? Was the tone loud and clear enough to detect breaks in wires such as the liftgate wires? Any similar tools that would work as well? Thanks!

 

[mrrsm]

I was still typing when you posted... I like mine a LOT...and it is on par with the one Harbor Freight Sells as shown in the added video above.

 

[Chickenhawk]

Thanks! I will get one. That video helped.

We have Princess Auto here in Canada, which is very similar to Harbor Freight, so I will cruise by my local store tonight and have a look at theirs.