Grinding Noise Only When turning Right?

Cable810

Cable810

Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2011
Posts
690
Here is what its doing when I turn right. Dosn't do it when I turn left.

Grinding only when turning right - YouTube

My Friend thinks its the CV Shaft going bad. I asked my shop when they did the alignment to check and see what it was and I don't think they did cause they never told me anything.

What are your thoughts?

Roughly 160K OD Shows close to 140K(Uncle put an OD Stopper on it before we bought it)
Made the grinding noise before the lift.
Checked the Hub when we did the lift(Grabed the top and bottom of the tire and rock in and out) And there was no play in it.
 
Cable810 said:
My Friend thinks its the CV Shaft going bad.
Click to expand...
Your friend have experience with our platform? 4WD? He's guessing. It's not the shaft because the outer CV joint has no idea if a turn is to the right or the left. You have a classic failing hub.
Checked the Hub when we did the lift(Grabed the top and bottom of the tire and rock in and out) And there was no play in it.
Click to expand...
Hubs make noise WAY before you can detect play in them. They also fail in a way that you often can't tell by spinning the wheel while it's in the air, because when it's in the air the weight of the wheel is on the bottom of the race which may be smooth. When the weight of the truck is on it, the top of the race is taking the ball bearing pressure. Just save up for a Timken or two and change them. If one is gone the other one will soon follow.

This one is totally and absolutely dead.

[video=youtube;B_Q8Cmruxic]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_Q8Cmruxic[/video]

[video=youtube;5VdjdI3qMms]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5VdjdI3qMms[/video]
 
When mine failed it had NO play in it, but when on a lift and spinning the wheel while holding onto the coil spring I could feel the roughness on the bad bearing side. Someone else here tried this and also found this to work for him.

If your bearing is bad I recommend replacing it BEFORE it looks like Roadie's did :crazy:
 
Crap NOT what I wanted . There goes the Lightbar and Skid Plate :sadcry:....... Hopefully I can get this taken care of before the Northern MI Meet CRAP. He has no experience with our platform, He just said what he thought it was. He was a Grand Cherokee(Lifted on 32s) Onwer and had his CV shaft went bad.

Thanks Roadie and Sparky. I did watch those videos of yours Roadie.
 
Cable810 said:
(Uncle put an OD Stopper on it before we bought it).
Click to expand...

Not to self....do not buy any used 'genuine mileage' cars from Cable. :rotfl:
 
Just makin sure thats the right one before I find a better price and end up purchasing the wrong one... Thanks
 
Checked with the shop and they think its rust on the rotors. I can't really see rust causing the noise. The heat sheild?
 
Cable810 said:
Would it be wise to purchase one from Ebay?
Click to expand...
All depends on the seller's reputation and if they're still going to be alive in case of a warranty issue. Rockauto you at least can be sure they'll be around.

There are also a lot of counterfeit auto parts out there, including perfect copies of the boxes. You want to know how the vendor OBTAINED the part.
 
I showed them the video. He said its possiably rust on the rotor. So i dunno
I dont want it to be the hubs.
 
So I jacked up the front of the TB, spun the tires round and here is what I got

Left Side-Problem Side
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BNX8e0QH58&feature=youtu.be

Right Side
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUaRNp3fPio&feature=youtu.be

Then I jacked up the front turned the Left Tire to the right and spun it. I was not getting the grinding sound. If I was to do the Veer Test I'm thinking that there would be no difference between the Veer and Jacking the front up. Cause turning right puts the weight on the left tire, jack the front up removes the weight. Same as the Veer Test IMO.
If it was the heat shield I would still hear that no matter what?

y'all following?
 
Have you looked further in from the axles to the 4wd disconnect/actuator assembly? Mine made a similar noise when it went out and was noticeably damaged from underneath.
 
My rotors are probably the worse rusted out POS anyone has ever seen. And I have absolutely NO noise, grinding or anything whatsoever. I did have a squeal which we thought were the brake pads, but they are only half worn, come to find out my passenger side tire lugs were not tight AT ALL, possibly causing the rotor to wiggle and hit the shims on the calipers. We put the tire back on and tightened the lugs, and no more squeal. But we're still going to change the pads sometime next week.

I would NOT trust the shop's opinion purely on a video. The sounds in video's whether it's done on an IMAX camera, or a cheap ass cell phone camera all have some type of sound difference from the real thing. It probably wouldn't hurt to take it in somewhere to get the diagnosis, and go from there with repairs. I found fixing things by the seat of your pants ends up being three times as expensive, than if you just took it in to be diagnosed.

ALWAYS remember, NOTHING on these trucks are ever easy. What is normally easy on any other platform, turns out to be pure hell on ours. Even a simple oil change on these things can go badly lol.
 
I replaced my liftgate struts in 5 min, that was easy enough :raspberry:
 
Sparky said:
I replaced my liftgate struts in 5 min, that was easy enough :raspberry:
Click to expand...

Sparky...That doesn't count lol :no: :rotfl:
 
Sounds like brake shield, take the wheel off and put a couple lug nuts on, spin hub and see if the rotor makes contact with the shield
 
the roadie said:
Just save up for a Timken or two and change them. If one is gone the other one will soon follow.
Click to expand...
that is what happened to me, one went out, not even a month later the other went out also.

Cable810 said:
Timken Hub?
2002-2009 Chevrolet Trailblazer Wheel Hub – Timken 513188 - Front
Click to expand...

Cable810 said:
Would it be wise to purchase one from Ebay?

Timken 513188 Front Hub Assembly on eBay!
Click to expand...

I personally (more like my dad) got them from the auto store and did not bother with cheaper online just so if we have problems its way easier to deal with a store then online. Also warranty is easier etc. I got Timken also and they cost around $215 each I think and they run great.
 
rmsg0040 said:
Sounds like brake shield, take the wheel off and put a couple lug nuts on, spin hub and see if the rotor makes contact with the shield
Click to expand...

Heat/Brake Shield makes no contact with the Rotor.
 
Needed new Caliper Kits and Rotors turned... NOISE is finally GONE!!!! :wootwoot:
 
i would look for a coupon online for advance auto or autozone etc... you should be able to find one for a decent price with a warranty for around $125.hubs are not that bad to replace on these trucks.
 
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