NEED HELP Front HVAC Module Replacement Condsiderations

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,344
Ottawa, ON
What I got is the white wire at the radio to the orange wire at the HVAC blue C1 connector pin B11 as per this schematic.

I'd leave the dash off until fixed. :biggrin:
 

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southsidesmoka

Original poster
Member
Jul 21, 2018
121
Columbia, SC
@Mooseman OK...so the Datalink Schematics state the Serial Data Line from the HVAC is a white wire running to SP205, which is in the dashboard kick panel right above where I rest my left foot whilst driving...I went in and popped 'er loose, unraveled the electrical tape and removed the comb on the end opposite the wire entry points.

There is a buss bar connecting all wires in SP205. Is this the Serial Datalink starhub previously spoken about? If so, I do believe I'm going to run a temp jump wire form SP205 to the HVAC white wire port and see what I get. If she works, I'll simply re-run the wire appropriately through the dashboard cavities and, finally, be able to move on to the next fix and/or improvement to my trusty TrailBlazer.

Thank you for your time, @Mooseman .

- southsidesmoka
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,344
Ottawa, ON
Is this the Serial Datalink starhub previously spoken about?

Yes it is. I thought you had already tested the wire from the HVAC to there? Running another wire from there would actually be better.

Always my pleasure to help out.
 

Mektek

Member
May 2, 2017
656
FL
Whoa! wait a minute here.....
Have you ever replaced or repaired the actuators?????
If they are the original 15 year old OEM units, then they are all near failure, or some have failed already and can cause the symptoms you described. Usually you'll hear at least a faint clicking but not always. Soon after I got my TB, I had only heat on the drivers side. I decided to inspect all the actuators on the driver's side. (BTW - remove the seat and you'll have much easier access.) This is a big job, but I found all of them had cracked final drive gears and one had a few missing teeth.
Now it's almost two years later and I removed an actuator to check how the repair is holding up. The repaired gear is in good condition and has survived several recalibrations with no damage.
When the controller receives a feedback error it goes into a default mode and disables the actuator with the error - pushing buttons will not reset it. It will try again on the next ignition cycle, but the same thing will happen when a feedback error occurs. The cracked gear can slip on the metal insert and cause this.

You may be chasing a low tech problem with a high "tech 2" solution.......
 
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