front diff seems to be stuck

[HondaBoi]

Whats up GMT people! I need some help pulling the 5.3 out of my truck. I'm pulling the motor out cause metal shavings, its eating itself.

I need to get the front diff out but i'm having some real problems with that. For one the driveshaft going into it is stuck, i took the four 11mm bolts out but it seems really stuck in there, and on the same token I pulled the the four bolts that hold the diff onto the oil pan and the shaft through the engine but the diff is still stuck to the oil pan. I tried to pry at it but that made a couple little dents in the oil pan, so i dont think thats the move idk. At this point im just at a loss for what i need to do now.

does anybody know what to do here?

 

[Mooseman]

For the stuck U-joint, you should be able to put a pry bar behind it and pry it out. Never had an issue with those.

For the diff, you could pull the engine with it still attached and go at it once out. One way to get it to move is to hammer it with a BFH to make it rotate in the oil pan hole. Try spraying penetrating fluid on the flange (ATF and acetone is supposed to be very good). As you saw, be careful prying it as you could break wither the diff or the pan. This is especially true of the disconnect on the other side however you said you have already removed the intermediate shaft so it's already out.

 

[HondaBoi]

Yeah, that U joint is in there like swim wear but ill do that tomorrow and see what happens. Then if the diff wont stop me from pulling the engine that may just end up being what I do.

Ill update tomorrow

thank you for your help

 

[Reprise]

One way to get it to move is to hammer it with a BFH to make it rotate in the oil pan hole.

I did this, and broke off a 3" piece on the end. Had to JB Weld it back on. Thankfully, it didn't affect fluid retention. This is a good strategy for the disconnect on the passenger side, but I don't recommend it for the diff itself.

OP -- what worked for me was a set of pickle forks (ball joint separators). You'll need a couple of different sizes, and a couple of hours of pounding them in around the diff / oil pan. Eventually, it'll come off, and you won't damage the oil pan. You might have a couple of marks on the diff, but that'll be fine.
As for where to get them -- you can rent a set from a local auto parts store (usually 3 in the case). If no one has them, you can get them fairly cheap on Amazon.

For the driveshaft -- it will come out. After you get through prying the u-joint from the yoke, you'll probably need to move the driveshaft back and forth a few times to get the clearance for it to come out (mine took 4 separate moves, 2 in each direction. I have the 5.3, same as you.
The rear of the driveshaft will pull out of the t-case. Then you just have to jigger it back and forth. If the exhaust heat shield is in your way, take it off (mine was just wedged in; it had broken free from it's bolts years ago).

If you haven't taken off the crossmember panel right in back of the engine, you'll need to do that. All are 15mm. You'll also need to drop the driver's side of the steering rack (22mm, IIRC; one bolt.)

BTW, if you're not taking the engine out, I found the best way to get the diff out, once you get it separated from the oil pan, is to put it on the side (secure it to the frame rail, etc., if you need to, but I didn't). Then pull the pan off for the room to get the diff out.
You may be able to get it out via the front, but you'll be pulling a bunch of stuff from the front, including the accessory drive. Since you're pulling the engine out, just remove the pan, if you can't get it out easily by lifting the entire assembly.

You can look up a couple of my recent posts to find the steps I used to get the diff out, put new seals and bearings in (along with part #s, etc.) The one on rebuilding the diff, I posted within the last 2 weeks. And I've pretty much detailed here about how to get the diff out, anyway.

Good luck!

 

[TollKeeper]

Back up... Back up... Hold up!

If I am reading that right, we are talking about the passenger CV Axle that wont disconnect?

If so, those four bolts stay in the oil pan, holding the interaxle disconnect in place. Then you get a good CV axle puller behind the tri-pot of the CV axle, and pull it out.

For the drivers side, you leave the differential attached, until the engine is out. There is no way to remove it that isnt extremely complicated. You could remove it from the oil pan, lay it on the frame, and then pull it out after the engine is out. I would pull it completely assembled. These diffs and interaxle connects are known to bond themselves to the oil pan, creating issues, that can be expensive.

You could even leave the differential attached to the oil pan for the duration, and swap the oil pan/differential/ disconnect/axle connect as one piece. Unless you want to reseal it while its out, which is not a bad idea. Its always suggested that while the engine is out, you replace the o-ring on the pick up tube, as it was a known factory defect.

 

[HondaBoi]

Hey everyone, here is an update.

Got the axle out off of the diff, it did just take force. At this point, the only thing holding the engine in is motor mounts and probably a couple plugs, but that is all a tomorrow problem. The diff is still on the oil pan, but i think ill deal with that when i get the engine out and look into Reprise's method. Anything i should do to check the diff's condition once its off? I noticed it was totally dry.

Side note, this thing is soo much more brutal than any other platform ive worked on, and most online help has been kinda not good, in that they're used to the other GM truck platforms. Y'all know whats up, wish I was on here this whole build.

 

[Reprise]

If the engine comes out of the truck, that opens up additional places to drive the pickle forks in. The right puller (a big-ass one!) would do the job as well. Or get everything clear where you can just unbolt the pan, and separate the two off-engine.
But -- you *better* have someone / something bracing or holding it when those last bolts come out!

And don't forget that you'll need to maneuver the pair of them to clear the oil pickup from the hole in the windage tray oil pan baffle -- that can be difficult, with the diff attached.

If you still have the intermediate shaft in the pan, you can get it out with an M6 bolt -- there's a threaded insert on the passenger side that you can use to pull it out with (slide hammer, etc.) Took a few pulls, but I got it out with that bolt.

As for the diff itself, and what to look for... look up my post from a couple of weeks ago. Admittedly, it's a wall of text, but there's good info there for you. The diff leaks, bc there's no gasket (GM used an anerobic sealer between the case halves... which, in retrospect, didn't work / last too well. )

If you're going to split the case to correct that (with some RTV or sealant of your choice)... you'll want to also examine the oil seals... and if you're going to replace those (or just want to be thorough), examine and replace the bearing sets, as needed. Oil seals can't be reused, as they'll be destroyed in the process of removing them. Bearings can be reused, if OK.
My post also details all the part #s, for lookup.