front axle leak? oil?

bspurloc

Original poster
Member
Dec 27, 2012
295
I noticed some fresh drops in the driveway where my daughter had parked.
Looked under her engine and see it soaking wet mostly on the driver side.
It looks like the driver side axle seal is leaking?? I see wetness sprayed in a round throw pattern.
I did not notice anything coming down from the engine but I may be missing it so am asking...

If the axle seal goes will this occur axle fluid flying all over? I smelled it and it kinda smells like oil. I checked the oil and it seems to be the proper level at the top of the max F line.

Where do I check the fluid levels in this front axle?
Is this hard to replace? blah.

figures... 210,000 on the truck and my daughter just asked if it would last 2 more years and I said. I dont see why not there is no major or anything really wrong with the engine besides eating 2 quarts of oil a change...
 

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Mounce

Member
Mar 29, 2014
13,667
Tuscaloosa, AL
Looks like the front differential is leaking at the axle seal like you said.

To check fluid level, remove the fill plug and stick a white zip tie in a little at a downward angle. The full line is the bottom of the fill hole.
 
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bspurloc

Original poster
Member
Dec 27, 2012
295
blah!
what fluid goes in this? gear oil 75w etc stuff? not the gm transaxle stuff?
seems to be dripping pretty bad.

If this gets really low she should stick to 2wd till I can get this replaced?
Just ordered the seal off amazon. part 12471618
 

Mounce

Member
Mar 29, 2014
13,667
Tuscaloosa, AL
75w90 synthetic.

Need to keep oil in it and not let it run dry, it's always moving whether it's in 2wd or 4wd.

Also, it's time to change the fluid for the second time anyways, it's supposed to be changed every 100k along with the rear differential (same oil). And don't forget about the transfer case, it's due for it's fourth fluid change of autotrak II since it's picky service interval is every 50k.
 

AtlWrk

Member
Dec 6, 2011
674
Like most seal replacements, 90% of the work is just getting to it.

A few things to check is the condition of the CV axle where it rides on the seal, if it's in rough shape (scored, grooved, rusted, etc.) it will just eat up the new seal. Also, before doing any disassembly I'd grab hold of the CV axle tripot and try and move it in/out and all around. Excessive movement means the bearing is shot and needs to be replaced (a much much much more involved job, but fortunately not very common).

Be careful not to rotate the bearing adjuster nut (what you'll see behind the seal) while the seal is out. Tangs on the seal lock onto castellations on the bearing adjuster to keep it from rotating and moving the bearing preload and gear mesh.
 

bspurloc

Original poster
Member
Dec 27, 2012
295
cool thanks.
I think I have 2 things of 75w90 synthetic.
I was wondering what those back prongs were for!
Just odd how I was just under this truck 30 days ago and there was no leak at all, now its pouring out it seems.
She basically refuses to use anything but 2wd so seems odd.
I may do the seal this weekend. I guess that is way better than an engine oil leak!
 

linneje

Member
Apr 26, 2012
404
It happens. I had mine go a few years ago. The hard part was getting the old seal out. I had to borrow a seal puller from a friend. But i had a friend suggest that you could get screws into the old seal and pry it out with a claw hammer using the screws.

There are some threads with pictures that you can access if you need help.
 
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AWD V8

Member
Jan 12, 2015
463
I did the driver's side seal when I first bought my truck a few months ago.

Dealer seal, $35 and about an hour.

Removing the seal, I used my large Channel lock pliers.


I used a a large 4wd hub socket, just the right size. Make sure whatever you use puts force on the outside edge of the seal so you don't deform it.


Install the seal dry into the housing, no sealer. Lubricate the inside of the seal and the CV before you install the axle.
 

{tpc}

Member
Jan 22, 2014
359
How did you go about getting the CV axle out of the diff? I need to do this on my 07 tahoe, just nervous about banging on the axle with a mallet. Does it just pop out easy? Or do you use a pickle fork on it or something? I believe the differentials are similar if not the same so similar rules should apply.

Like I said though, everything I've read talks about hammering on the axle till it releases or something...do you spin it as your hammering away?

I'm not looking forward to this job lol, but I need to replace the CV axles so if I'm going to do that, might as well do this too I would guess. Along with the outer tie rod ends...who knows what else I might find.
 

AWD V8

Member
Jan 12, 2015
463
I used a slightly curved pry bar under the joint at the diff to lever it out. It takes a "jab" at it with the pry bar to jolt it out.

Also, if it does not simply slide out of the wheel hub, rarely does that happen, if you bang at it with a hammer you will distort the threads, very soft metal!

Thread the nut back on until it's flush with the axle stub, then use a BIG hammer and "bump" it until it is as far as it will go with the nut on, then remove the nut. This saves the threads, and if they do get distorted a bit, removing the nut will reform them.
 
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{tpc}

Member
Jan 22, 2014
359
AWD V8 said:
I used a slightly curved pry bar under the joint at the diff to lever it out. It takes a "jab" at it with the pry bar to jolt it out.

Also, if it does not simply slide out of the wheel hub, rarely does that happen, if you bang at it with a hammer you will distort the threads, very soft metal!

Thread the nut back on until it's flush with the axle stub, then use a BIG hammer and "bump" it until it is as far as it will go with the nut on, then remove the nut. This saves the threads, and if they do get distorted a bit, removing the nut will reform them.
Thanks for the info!

When talking about the wheel hub side, do you disconnect from the differential side first prior to the attempt at removing from the wheel hub side or do you "loosen" it up with a few raps before disconnecting from the diff?

I doubt I'll get lucky, as I never do, but I know both sides have been replaced by the previous owner because the caps over the axle nut are missing on both sides.
 

bspurloc

Original poster
Member
Dec 27, 2012
295
AWD V8 said:
I did the driver's side seal when I first bought my truck a few months ago.

Dealer seal, $35 and about an hour.

Removing the seal, I used my large Channel lock pliers.


I used a a large 4wd hub socket, just the right size. Make sure whatever you use puts force on the outside edge of the seal so you don't deform it.


Install the seal dry into the housing, no sealer. Lubricate the inside of the seal and the CV before you install the axle.
it looks like you slammed the case with a hammer a few times just above that socket. first attempts at something? :smile:
 

bspurloc

Original poster
Member
Dec 27, 2012
295
grr... I see I searched amazon for 12471618 and got 19257296 which I ordered without checking if they matched.
I HATE AMAZON SEARCH... constantly finds stuff that doesnt match.

I see others asking if these are the same item without an answer...
searching gm parts direct finds nothing for 12471618. supposedly 19257296 is the replacement number?
 

AWD V8

Member
Jan 12, 2015
463
Remove the wheel cap and loosen the axle nut now if you don't have an impact wrench.

Secure the front end on stands.

With the wheel off, unbolt the caliper and hang it off to the side. Remove the brake rotor so it doesn't fall on your foot!

Disconnect the ABS line so that you don't put strain on it, don't need any more problems! I can remember, maybe just disconnect the brackets so that you can put it to the side.

Now tap the axle stub in. It will only go in about 1/2 - 3/4 inch until you have the steering knuckle tilted out.

Disconnect the upper ball joint.

Tilt the steering knuckle out and tap the CV stub in until you can push it through.

Now use a big curved pry bar on the underside of the inner CV joint and jab it to pop it out.

Now pry the seal out. Wipe the are clean.

Using as large a circular object as possible, and a big hammer, tap the seal in squarely. A large socket, large wheel bearing race, etc. is OK.

Lube the inside of the seal and the outer seal surface and install the shaft. You need to "feel" for the splines as you engage it in the diff. Use a big hammer and bump it into the diff. You may have to align it a few times as it must be straight and square going in. Once you have it right the axle will slide in an lock in place.

Coat the outer CV stub splines with some anti-seize compound and insert it through the hub. Tile the steering knuckle upright as you go. Wiggling the stub and steering knuckle will help.

Secure the upper ball joint and ABS harness. Assemble your brakes and tighten the axle nut.

If you don't have an impact wrench, set it down on the ground once you have the wheel on and use a long bar. About 2 feet long, give it a bounce on the end, that should be tight enough, unless you weigh about as much as a Ballerina.
 

bspurloc

Original poster
Member
Dec 27, 2012
295
thanks.
is this correct Seal?
OD 3" ID 1.5"?
It has the splines on the inside and serrated inner rubber
SABO 7517 on the seal
 

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bspurloc

Original poster
Member
Dec 27, 2012
295
well i replaced the seal.
what a major pain to get it out.
tried the screw option but got too angry with it and used a slide hammer seal puller.
funny since looking at this the other day the boot fell off. I'm guessing all the tranny lube on it got it to slip off.
i checked the knuckle and it was fine no dirt in it either. so i lubed it all up cleaned up the boot seal and reclamped the boot back on with a boot repair kit i had.
cleaned it all up and took it for a ride. no leaks.
i did dimple the seal at the bottom getting it to go in the last little bit. will prob leak again in a few years. but oh well its actually an easy job.
thanks for the info!!
 
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bspurloc

Original poster
Member
Dec 27, 2012
295
additional notes...

To get the axle piece to pop out, I jammed a long pry bar thru the front fender then put a large adjustable wrench on it and twisted up on it which popped the axle piece right out first try.

as for the axle boot.. the metal band that holds it tight was way too loose to hold the boot on hence why it fell off. no clue how in the world that happened?? I wonder if they glue or somehow seal the boot to the huge rubber grommet and the axle lube deteriorated that bond because like I said the metal band had almost 1/4" play in it.
 

Mounce

Member
Mar 29, 2014
13,667
Tuscaloosa, AL
The crimp on the band probably failed. A lot of the lifted guys have issues with the boots coming loose and replace the metal bands with the screw type pipe clamp bands like what you'd use on a radiator hose but bigger. (pretty sure that's not what they're called...too late for me to think clearly lol)
 

bspurloc

Original poster
Member
Dec 27, 2012
295
Mounce said:
The crimp on the band probably failed. A lot of the lifted guys have issues with the boots coming loose and replace the metal bands with the screw type pipe clamp bands like what you'd use on a radiator hose but bigger. (pretty sure that's not what they're called...too late for me to think clearly lol)
yeah I would have used one of those if I didnt have the kit available.
Actually it was a friends kit and he was excited to actually use it. haha
I could have just got another axle for $50 at advance but it really looked like it had just come off. no dirt at all no thrown grease.
I sit here now and just hope I did enough grease! I greased the cone 4 corners and the 4 bearings. It didnt look like there was that much original grease in there. maybe it did come out... who knows. 210k on the truck if the axle starts clicking I see its a real easy repair and the axles are pretty cheap.
 
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AWD V8

Member
Jan 12, 2015
463
bspurloc said:
it looks like you slammed the case with a hammer a few times just above that socket. first attempts at something? :smile:
Nope, that's just the machined surface. I wiped it all clean around there before I started working. That's the reflection of my work light.
 
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bspurloc

Original poster
Member
Dec 27, 2012
295
AWD V8 said:
Nope, that's just the machined surface. I wiped it all clean around there before I started working. That's the reflection of my work light.
ah ok! makes sense now!
 

{tpc}

Member
Jan 22, 2014
359
bspurloc said:
additional notes...

To get the axle piece to pop out, I jammed a long pry bar thru the front fender then put a large adjustable wrench on it and twisted up on it which popped the axle piece right out first try.

as for the axle boot.. the metal band that holds it tight was way too loose to hold the boot on hence why it fell off. no clue how in the world that happened?? I wonder if they glue or somehow seal the boot to the huge rubber grommet and the axle lube deteriorated that bond because like I said the metal band had almost 1/4" play in it.
So do you lever on it against the rest of the differential? I have a pickle fork that I think the opening would fit in there but have yet to try. The forks are tapered so i'm somewhat unclear as if you just try to wedge it in there and as the taper gets larger it will pop out, or if you lever against something.

I would be super happy if it just popped out, but I always try to have a pessimistic view because usually nothing goes how "I" plan it lol.
 

AtlWrk

Member
Dec 6, 2011
674
You should be able to just tap it straight in there with the wedging action popping out the CV axle. Shouldn't need to pry unless there's too much gap. The forks they make specifically for popping CV axles have a separate flat "back up" fork the goes behind the wedge one to fill the gap if needed.
 

bspurloc

Original poster
Member
Dec 27, 2012
295
well the boot fell off so the axle came apart leaving the one piece still in the case. i didnt have the fork thing. i tried to get a hammer in but couldn't. so my friend snaked a 3ft pry bar thru the front and i guided it to be behind the joint then he just twisted the pry bar with a wrench and it immediately popped out.
so that would be the flat end of the pry bar pushing against the case and the knuckle when twisted.
 

bspurloc

Original poster
Member
Dec 27, 2012
295
Mounce said:
That axle was probably shot, im not certain but I highly doubt that the boot is the only thing holding it together..
yeah the inner knuckle the only thing holding it together is the boot. if you have seen one apart you would see how it works. I could find some pictures. the inner knuckle is basically a cross with 4 round bearings that slide into the knuckle. It is created this way so when you turn the wheel or compress the suspension the axle slides into the knuckle allowing it to expand or contract by about 3 inches.
I had thought the same thing that it was shot until I saw how it works. the outer knuckle at the wheel, that is the one that shouldnt fall apart!
this video will show you how the inner knuckle is, note the one he shows you is only 3 slide bearings where ours is 4. you can forward to 10:30 into the video where he takes apart the inner knuckle
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-S-ofMoWsr0
 

bspurloc

Original poster
Member
Dec 27, 2012
295
here is a better video showing our type of knuckle, I couldnt find any pics!
again ours is 4 bearings that slide in round like this knuckle where the other video they are square.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RQk7wochBBk

I definitely didnt put enough grease in the knuckle when I resealed the boot. but oh well, if it starts to click I will just replace the axle not a big deal. expecting to replace the truck in 2 years anyway.
 

jsheahawk

Member
Jan 16, 2013
533
Kansas City
Remove the wheel cap and loosen the axle nut now if you don't have an impact wrench.

Secure the front end on stands.

With the wheel off, unbolt the caliper and hang it off to the side. Remove the brake rotor so it doesn't fall on your foot!

Disconnect the ABS line so that you don't put strain on it, don't need any more problems! I can remember, maybe just disconnect the brackets so that you can put it to the side.

Now tap the axle stub in. It will only go in about 1/2 - 3/4 inch until you have the steering knuckle tilted out.

Disconnect the upper ball joint.

Tilt the steering knuckle out and tap the CV stub in until you can push it through.

Now use a big curved pry bar on the underside of the inner CV joint and jab it to pop it out.

Now pry the seal out. Wipe the are clean.

Using as large a circular object as possible, and a big hammer, tap the seal in squarely. A large socket, large wheel bearing race, etc. is OK.

Lube the inside of the seal and the outer seal surface and install the shaft. You need to "feel" for the splines as you engage it in the diff. Use a big hammer and bump it into the diff. You may have to align it a few times as it must be straight and square going in. Once you have it right the axle will slide in an lock in place.

Coat the outer CV stub splines with some anti-seize compound and insert it through the hub. Tile the steering knuckle upright as you go. Wiggling the stub and steering knuckle will help.

Secure the upper ball joint and ABS harness. Assemble your brakes and tighten the axle nut.

If you don't have an impact wrench, set it down on the ground once you have the wheel on and use a long bar. About 2 feet long, give it a bounce on the end, that should be tight enough, unless you weigh about as much as a Ballerina.
Thanks for the how to. I knocked it out in about an hour. No more leaks!

36mm deep socket for the axle nut BTW.
 
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HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
35 mm stock and 36 mm for most aftermarket but 36 will work on both.
 
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jsheahawk

Member
Jan 16, 2013
533
Kansas City
35 mm stock and 36 mm for most aftermarket but 36 will work on both.
I found that out. Thought it was 32mm; didn't have it. Quick run to Advance to get a 35mm; turns out there's a 36mm on there. Another quick run to Advance for an exchange, and I was finally done. An hour job turned into a two-and-a-half hour job. Stupid poor planning!
 

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