Frame repair rust damage

mrrsm

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To answer your question about the reason for having "Triangulated" Framing Pieces AKA Gussets ... they prevent the entire frame from turning into collapsing Rhomboid Shapes (...think Parallelogram here) instead of the structures remaining in either a Perfectly Square Box Shape or a Perfectly Rectangular Shape under the stress of the Motor and Transmission twisting the frame from underneath via either Engine Torque or from the Suspension Twisting. A Triangle is the ONLY Structural Shape that actually remains sturdy and rigid in ALL Three Planes, regardless of whether under Tension or Compression of any of the Three Sides of the welded frame pieces. Unfortunately, Boxes and Rectangles are all capable of suddenly collapsing into two dimensional objects.
 
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coolride

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Went out for a haircut and stopped at Tractor Supply on the way home.

I found it at TS.
Hobart Part# H222106-R19 (E71T-11) .030"
frame24.jpg
 
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coolride

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Not sure why I waited so long to pull the grinder out of storage. It removes surface rust like magic. After a coating of Ospho, there's the typical white and dusty patches. I'm thinking that vinegar might remove that residue.
frame25.jpg
 
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coolride

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Update: I wouldn't suggest the vinegar. It does seem to dissolve the white powder but it also causes new rusting where none existed before.
 

mrrsm

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You'd be better off treating those Freshly Cleaned, Bare Steel Surfaces with Part #1 (Marine Clean) Wash...and then Part #2 (Zinc-Phosphor) Metal Treatment and then paint on Part #3 of the POR-15 "Paint Over Rust" Black Paint from the inexpensive POR-15 Sampler Kit AFTER your New MIG Welds have been applied.

 

coolride

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I'm all about the Rustoleum on this project. Rusty Metal Primer followed by top coats. The frame is Flat Black and everything else that I mess with becomes either Smoke Grey, or Gloss Almond.
fuelpump15.jpg
 
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mrrsm

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Nice Box...

Just remember ...With Gas-less, Flux-Cored Wire... You have to run your MIG Welder on Straight Polarity... (DC - Electrode NEGATIVE) so you'll have to Switch the Positions of Your Leads ahead of time and set the Machine up as suggested in your Manual for FCAW:

This is Bob Moffatt... an excellent Welding Instructor from Weld.com who is using 240VAC MIG Machine here below very similar to your Pro-Mig Welder while explaining, "The Basics of FCAW (Fluxed Core Arc Welding)" and de-bunking some of the Myths vs. the Advantages surrounding this choice over MIG Wire with an Argon-Carbon Di-Oxide Bottle Gas (especially on Windy Days when you're outside ...and your Shielding Gas just gets "Blown Away"):


This Weld.com Instructor uses the very same 0.030" Flux-Cored Wire that you just bought and shows Three More Tricks to help you out:


Some differences between GMAW vs, FCAW with Terminology and Procedural Differences:


One last suggestion on your choice of a Flat Steel Strap... Having it be at a 3/16" X 3" Thickness and Width would probably be better suited for replacing the Lost Structural Strength in the SUV Under-Framing and would be a Damned Side EZR for you to Weld on. Otherwise, you could also laminate the work with a Second Piece of 1/8" X 2.75" Steel Strap cut to Length and then Drilled out with 1/2" Centering Holes every 6" or so. Then just weld it in evenly around the perimeter inlay after fill welding in those holes on the Second Plate-Strap for additional holding strength. Finally, you can grind everything down smooth, making the edges radiused just before doing the last Metal Anti-Rust Treatment and Painting.
 
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coolride

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The project now is wiring my father's garage with 220V service. And his kitchen is torn apart because a new floor is being installed. Everything from the kitchen is in the garage, which is slowing things down.

Ran out of Ospho and couldn't find it for sale locally. Picked up this Loctite. It's a different style of stuff than Ospho but I'd say, from previous experience, that it works pretty good.
frame27.JPG
 
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coolride

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I was considering putting some Safety Yellow under there someplace. The places that aren't visible when it's lowered might be gloss black. The gloss sheds water and dirt better.
 
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coolride

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Welder out of storage; and I've been through everything (found the missing parts.) I bought an extra helmet and there's a new insert on order for the old helmet (Kobalt brand in blue.)

My Nephew works for a steel construction company and he provided an assortment of steel from the scrap bin. Next step is to move the TB into the garage and then, make some templates.
frame1.JPG
 

mrrsm

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One Last "Tune Up Tip" about Flux Core Arc Welding (Non-Gas-Shielded) Welding Primer that is well worth watching before you begin. This one will give you some good information on what the suggested Best FCAW Welding Techniques are to follow:

 

mrrsm

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Remember that before you finally climb under the SUV and start 'Wailing Away" with your Welder... Get your hands on some 100 % Cotton Turtleneck Shirts with Full Length Sleeves (or get a Welder's Balaclava Hoodie) along with wearing a 100% Cotton Large, Loose Fitting Full Length Sleeve, Button Down Shirt.

The Very LAST Thing you want to experience is to be laying on your back or side(s) and have all of that White Hot Weld Splatter dropping down through the open top of any Shirt made out of any kind of Synthetic Material that can easily Catch Fire. Do NOT set the Auto-Dimming Level of your Welder's Helmet any lower than "9"...and Have Good Luck while You Practice Welding!
 

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