Understood... and your honest answer sidesteps any concerns I had about something in the Rotating Assembly going sideways and causing this damage from the Inside. Naturally, if the Crankcase-Oil-Pan is completely removed, the BEST Repair would be to have the Crack TIG Welded to achieve the most permanent results.
However, the Fix should work just as well if the Repair is done WITH the Oil Pan still installed. The Pan must first be Drained and the Oil Filter Removed to ensure that no residual Oil can invade the work area during the repair. Remember to STOP DRILL all of the Sharp, Mating Angles of the Hole edges and near the perimeter around the Crack(s) to prevent their further propagation.
If the metal surfaces are properly prepared and immaculately cleaned with Brake-Kleen Spray Solvent, well mixed binary components of the High Temperature JB-Weld can work to resist Chemicals, Oils and Engine Vibrations and the breakdown of the adhesion of that stuff at operating temperatures up to 500 Degrees Fahrenheit. The position of the Bolt-On Oil Pan should be well below the reach of the rotating Crankshaft Counterweights and Connecting Rod motions, so the risk of them making any direct contact with the Fresh JB-Weld after the Repair is finished and it hardens is very low.